electric showers

Ms. Captain M

Looking for a bit of advice, my Triton t80 xr gave up the ghost, an electrician friend of my brothers had a look he said it looks like the pump is gone and I'll need a new shower.

I rang one place asking if they had them in stock and the said that the Triton T80 z (€180) is what's being sold now for the T80 xr, another place had the T80 xr (€200) in stock.

The reason I want a T80 as opposed to a T90 is that it can be replaced with as little fuss as possible ie taking it out and replacing it without having to take out part of the wall. So basically what I want to know is, is the T80 z the exact same as the xr, as in fitting it into the place where my current one is?

Joey the lips

Ms. Captain M wrote: »

Looking for a bit of advice, my Triton t80 xr gave up the ghost, an electrician friend of my brothers had a look he said it looks like the pump is gone and I'll need a new shower.

I rang one place asking if they had them in stock and the said that the Triton T80 z (€180) is what's being sold now for the T80 xr, another place had the T80 xr (€200) in stock.

The reason I want a T80 as opposed to a T90 is that it can be replaced with as little fuss as possible ie taking it out and replacing it without having to take out part of the wall. So basically what I want to know is, is the T80 z the exact same as the xr, as in fitting it into the place where my current one is?

a t80 does not have a pump so i think your brothers friend is mistaken.

A t80xr is the same as a T80 but it has a bow type riser rail kit. This is all that is available now. So you will have to go with it.

Ms. Captain M

Thanks, you're on the ball! Maybe he didn't say pump but when he opened up the shower it's the black box so whatever that's called. One of the places had the T80 xr in stock, so should I go for that or the T80 z

Joey the lips

Ms. Captain M wrote: »

Thanks, you're on the ball! Maybe he didn't say pump but when he opened up the shower it's the black box so whatever that's called. One of the places had the T80 xr in stock, so should I go for that or the T80 z

I dont know anything about the t80z sorry.

Billy Bunting

Ms. Captain M wrote: »

Thanks, you're on the ball! Maybe he didn't say pump but when he opened up the shower it's the black box so whatever that's called. One of the places had the T80 xr in stock, so should I go for that or the T80 z

The pump on a T90 has a black cover around it, are you sure it was a T80? a T80 is a mains operated shower while the T90 it tank fed.

Ms. Captain M

Billy Bunting wrote: »

The pump on a T90 has a black cover around it, are you sure it was a T80? a T80 is a mains operated shower while the T90 it tank fed.

Yep it's definitely a T80, that's what it says on it anyway! When he took off the white cover there's a black box inside it.

Billy Bunting

Ok, the T80xr did come with a black heating element assembly.

The T80z is the latest T80, it is slightly larger in the case so can cover areas other larger showers may have been sighted on. There is little difference between the Z and the XR, both should be a straight swaps.

Ms. Captain M

Great, thanks

Lottie79

Hi
I have a mire elite2 and it's dying (hot, cold then low flow) it's at least three years old as that's how long we're in the house but I'd say it's a good bit older.
Just wondering what my options are to replace it? Have been advised that "electric showers" are no longer viewed as efficient so would like to replace it if possible with something that is.
Only have the one shower and it's over the bath on opposite end to bath taps. Sorry bit clueless about these things and don't want to spend money to be told that we shouldn't have done it that way!!
Any advice appreciated thanks,
Lottie

Stratus

Lottie79 wrote: »

Hi
I have a mire elite2 and it's dying (hot, cold then low flow) it's at least three years old as that's how long we're in the house but I'd say it's a good bit older.
Just wondering what my options are to replace it? Have been advised that "electric showers" are no longer viewed as efficient so would like to replace it if possible with something that is.
Only have the one shower and it's over the bath on opposite end to bath taps. Sorry bit clueless about these things and don't want to spend money to be told that we shouldn't have done it that way!!
Any advice appreciated thanks,
Lottie

First off there is a few different reasons that might happen to an electric shower lime scale, component and blockage in pipe work IE filter on the inlet to the shower is block (check this link http://www.mirashowers.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1056830_w2_g_mira_elite_st.pdf to locate where the filter is on the bottom left hand corner of the shower). One other thing as this shower is feed from the tank in the attic you should check that the isolation valve isn’t after been closed by accident if for example the wall the shower is on backs on to the hot press/airing cupboard ( but its rare these days to find an isolation valve on a shower supply pipe especially if its an estate house and built in the Celtic Rush)

if its lime scale(a good indicator of this is your kettle if there is a lot of lime in the water it will also deposit in the kettle) you should be able to see small particles of lime in the shower head or run the shower without the shower rose attached and turn the temperature control knob from cold to hot a couple of times leave the water heat up first and then to cold. Cooling the lime coating the element quickly will cause some of the lime scale to flake of the element. (This is more of a temporary solution or a way to determine if there are heavy deposits of lime).
As efficiency goes id have to say that electric showers are very efficient in terms of energy usage (but not the best in terms of quality of water jet or having a decent shower from) as they only heat the water as its needed as appose to a power shower which uses stored hot water (that is a separate hot and cold water supplies)

As the cheapest of all option would be to replace like with like and if as you, you have got over 3 years with this shower your doing very good (as usually it is water quality that determines the life span of the shower and then the amount of usage
hope this is of some help

mattman087

I had same problem and all i did was screw off the shower head and run the shower , turn up and down the temp, and if the water heats and cools as normal then the head is blocked with limescale, if this the case then disolve a calgon tablet in a large jug and put the shower head in it overnight or as long as posible and replace head and happy showering ,. otherwise check the water pressure, it could be fed of the storage tank or of the mains .

miss choc

Hi

Just a quick post I'm looking for a recommended supplier and fitter of a Triton T90xr in North Dublin area. My Triton T90i is banjacked only flowing cold water/loud noises. I'm giving a rough guess of €400 for fit/supply/labour anyone know of a cheaper quote?

Joey the lips

miss choc wrote: »

Hi

Just a quick post I'm looking for a recommended supplier and fitter of a Triton T90xr in North Dublin area. My Triton T90i is banjacked only flowing cold water/loud noises. I'm giving a rough guess of €400 for fit/supply/labour anyone know of a cheaper quote?

If your getting it for 400 Your doing well. It will normally cost around 600 supply and fit. If you need someone in north dublin at that price let me know. I know a couple of people that direction. However as per rules i will PM you if you request.

miss choc

Are you serious? :eek: thats a crazy price maybe I should buy Triton t90xr myself and get someone to fit it not being funny but my budget is 350 not 600!!

cast_iron

miss choc wrote: »

Are you serious? :eek: thats a crazy price maybe I should buy Triton t90xr myself and get someone to fit it not being funny but my budget is 350 not 600!!

I can't see it costing much more than 300-350. The shower itself is about 220 to buy. A simple swap for your t90i shouldn't be that much work. Maybe joey thought it was a new location and has to be freshly plumbed and wired.

miss choc

its just upgrading it like for like, a pumped electric shower so hoping its a supply fit and labour job no extra messing

cast_iron

Often, depending on the shower rating, the cable may need upgrading to 10sq, as 6sq was more common back in the day. Today's showers consume more power than the older ones, and hence the bigger cable may be required.
It should also be on an RCBO, and this was not common practice years ago either, so modification of the consumer unit (fuseboard) may also be needed.

So thinking about it now, the 600 price may be quite close to the mark if this work is required.

Joey the lips

cast_iron wrote: »

Often, depending on the shower rating, the cable may need upgrading to 10sq, as 6sq was more common back in the day. Today's showers consume more power than the older ones, and hence the bigger cable may be required.
It should also be on an RCBO, and this was not common practice years ago either, so modification of the consumer unit (fuseboard) may also be needed.

So thinking about it now, the 600 price may be quite close to the mark if this work is required.

We have clearly traveled the same road. If its a simple change over on the shower it will cost about 150 on the price of the shower. However tritons are good showers and i find they are in a min of 5 years and over. The majority i came across is in 10-12 years.

This usually requires changing of the cable, fitting of a new rcd. pull chord switch is faulty and sometimes the plumbing needs to be moved because its too low down in the tank and has now started to collect all the scum.Then there is the footprint. Somtimes tiles need to be changed as well.

Pay 150 to a cowboy and enjoy but personally standing in a bath with 8.5kw of electricity and a nice flow of water around me..I would consider it as important to have the correct installer as i would having an rgii person for gas

Clonganny

I am looking to install a mains fed electric shower into our holiday home. There is a 1/2" mains fed pipe going to the bathroom.I got a pressure gauge from a plumber an put it on it and got a reading of 3bar. I then filled a bucket for and got a flow of 6.6litres in a minute. Are these figures good enough for an electric shower( can you recommend one) or do I have to look to install a tank in the attic?

bretttp1

I am doing the work myself, just reconnecting the existing electrical and plumbing connections.
My question is about the existing shower, it has an earth wire connected to the copper pipe with a small fitting, this has not come with the new shower and the manual states that none is to be used, is this correct?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_AvkeJGXFudY/TYNHanymVUI/AAAAAAAAAFU/XuNksItTB-0/s288/DSC02472.JPG

mickbookle

Fitted a T90xr last year and have only used it a few times, so don't think the problem is lime. The pressure is very low on it (you'd spit harder!), the Triton replaced a Gainsborough which had no pressure problems. Any ideas?
Thanks

The Shower Doctors

mickbookle wrote: »

Fitted a T90xr last year and have only used it a few times, so don't think the problem is lime. The pressure is very low on it (you'd spit harder!), the Triton replaced a Gainsborough which had no pressure problems. Any ideas?
Thanks

Check the filter at the inlet.It might be blocked.
cheers
Steve

MugMugs

Well folks. Currently have a t90xr in my en suite. I rent out a room in the house and the bathroom has a mix shower fed from the bath. Was thinking of putting another t90xr in but was looking at this thread and am a bit worried about that now. Why do I have to install an isolater for the showers if I put in a second electric? How expensive a job is it? I am dubious about a power shower as 6 to 7 months of the year its not cold enough to justify putting the heating on so there is rarely hot water during the summer and spring months.

Joey the lips

MugMugs wrote: »

Well folks. Currently have a t90xr in my en suite. I rent out a room in the house and the bathroom has a mix shower fed from the bath. Was thinking of putting another t90xr in but was looking at this thread and am a bit worried about that now. Why do I have to install an isolater for the showers if I put in a second electric? How expensive a job is it? I am dubious about a power shower as 6 to 7 months of the year its not cold enough to justify putting the heating on so there is rarely hot water during the summer and spring months.

You need to put an isolator or priority switch because the 2 elecric showers if on together draw too much current. If your mains pressure is strong enough another option my be an electric shower. ie t80.

glicster

hope someones still reading this thread???

ive got an elite2 and its starting to make a funny sound when running and the water aint getting so hot.
its about 5yrs old.

i would describe the normal sound as a low pitched whirring but now i would describe it as a high pitched whirring.
i clean the filter and shower head regulary.

inside the unit it looks like black powder everywhere from what i presume would be the brushes??
could this be my problem,worn brushes?
thanks in advance

The Shower Doctors

Hi there
I would suspect the bearings in the pump from what you have described.You are correct in assuming the black powder is from the brushes in the motor, however these are not available seperately as a spare part.
Cheers
Steve

glicster wrote: »

hope someones still reading this thread???

ive got an elite2 and its starting to make a funny sound when running and the water aint getting so hot.
its about 5yrs old.

i would describe the normal sound as a low pitched whirring but now i would describe it as a high pitched whirring.
i clean the filter and shower head regulary.

inside the unit it looks like black powder everywhere from what i presume would be the brushes??
could this be my problem,worn brushes?
thanks in advance

glicster

thanks for the reply Steve but ive a couple of more q's if you dont mind,

if the bearings were gone would this explane the drop in temperature(luke warm now),and the pressure is fine unless i turn it to max when it drops right off
and suppose if they are gone its a new pump right?

so what would be the better option cost wise,have someone to come look and repair or a whole new unit?
thanks
Shane

Joey the lips

For my money i am betting on the motor brushes. If it is them you may pick up some from an electrical providers but as said they are not generally a spare.

If it is the bearings in the pump or to be honest anything pump related it would be cheaper to replace the whole shower.

The Shower Doctors

glicster wrote: »

thanks for the reply Steve but ive a couple of more q's if you dont mind,

if the bearings were gone would this explane the drop in temperature(luke warm now),and the pressure is fine unless i turn it to max when it drops right off
and suppose if they are gone its a new pump right?

so what would be the better option cost wise,have someone to come look and repair or a whole new unit?
thanks
Shane

Hi again
Motor bearings will have nothing to do with the temperature.This is purely to do with the noise of the unit. If the brushes were going in the motor and the pump was not turning full speed, this could have an effect on the temperature. If however ther is just a restriction in the line or the hose or the head this also could give the same symtoms.
I would suggest you get someone to look at the shower.
You certainly could save yourself half the cost of a replacement unit.
Regards
Steve

ruthiepie

Hi Guys, hoping someone can give me some bit of advice.... I have a Triton T80xr in my ensuite and about a week ago it stopped heating the water. Had someone out to look at it and he changed the stat and the element.
Went home that night and straight away could see, it is heating but the temperature is boiling and even though im turning down the temp on the front, its still boiling. Turned it onto the coldest settings and that one just gives cold water so im getting either boiling or cold water. Before I get back someone back out, any ideas on it so.
Also dont know if this is connected but the power switch when its on the light is obviously on and when its off there is no light. Now when I turn it off its still lighting... Dunno if its connected but said id say it just in case! So any help would be great, so i can get back onto your man and know what im talking about.

Thanks all