Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

CathalDublin

The Last Bandit wrote: »

I think that one is using a different video amp, there was dimness problems with his earlier ones afaik.

A lot depends on the arcade monitor being used as well, when I was first working on the jammacon board I tired the ths7314 (fixed 2x amp) as well and it work ok with some monitors as dim on others.
Which wasn't that surprising as the input range for most arcade monitors is 2v-5v and the gert666 circuit outputs at 0.7v so 2x that and you 1.4V instead of the minimum 2v.

I think the original one hadn't even got a video amp, I'll check the chip on mine just out of interest

Steve X2

With Pi2jamma, can you not use any image you like?

I'm working on 3 Hyperpie images(a 8GB, 32GB and 500GB) and Pi2jamma would be a great way of hooking them up to a real arcade machine.

The Last Bandit

Steve X2 wrote: »

With Pi2jamma, can you not use any image you like?

I'm working on 3 Hyperpie images(a 8GB, 32GB and 500GB) and Pi2jamma would be a great way of hooking them up to a real arcade machine.

You should be able to, the only difference really is the controller interface they have. I suspect there using the gamecom_gpio driver in SNES mode so should be just a case of configure it to suit your own image.
The gert666 video output used is well defined at this stage.

All the above is complete guess work as I've not seen what ICs are used on the board or looked at the sw image

Steve X2

The Last Bandit wrote: »

You should be able to, the only difference really is the controller interface they have. I suspect there using the gamecom_gpio driver in SNES mode so should be just a case of configure it to suit your own image.
The gert666 video output used is well defined at this stage.

All the above is complete guess work as I've not seen what ICs are used on the board or looked at the sw image

Yeah makes sense. I'll get the basic images right and then see if it's worth outputting to Jamma.

eddhorse

I can test an image if you want !

Currently they have the system files in the sd card and then the roms and artwork on a USB stick.
Easier to upgrade then i guess.

eddhorse

Probably makes more sense to do :
RPi3 -> hdmi to vga -> jpac -> jamma

Steve X2

eddhorse wrote: »

Probably makes more sense to do :
RPi3 -> hdmi to vga -> jpac -> jamma

I've done that before and it works well on the Egret 3(trisync monitor). I'm just curious what the difference is in lag between the pi2jamma and hdmi-vga-jpac.

remoteboy

Is there anyone in Dublin that does monitor repairs? I have an old Hantatex monitor that I tried to fix a few years back (replaced the cap kit) but it didn't make a difference. I'd really like to get it up and running but, honestly, I'm out of my depth.

remoteboy

remoteboy wrote: »

Is there anyone in Dublin that does monitor repairs? I have an old Hantatex monitor that I tried to fix a few years back (replaced the cap kit) but it didn't make a difference. I'd really like to get it up and running but, honestly, I'm out of my depth.

What chassis and what symptoms?
How was your soldering? If there is lifted traces and pulled through holes it'll be a nightmare to find.

remoteboy

BrownFinger wrote: »

What chassis and what symptoms?
How was your soldering? If there is lifted traces and pulled through holes it'll be a nightmare to find.

It's a Hantatex MTC9000. The soldering is solid - no concerns there.

I'm having a serious issue with brightness right now but it's been 5 years since I last switched it on so that might just need to warm up.

If I can get beyond that issue the problem I was trying to fix was around colour reproduction. I've been tinkering with this for years but don't feel like I'll ever solve it without professional help.

eddhorse

remoteboy wrote: »

It's a Hantatex MTC9000. The soldering is solid - no concerns there.

I'm having a serious issue with brightness right now but it's been 5 years since I last switched it on so that might just need to warm up.

If I can get beyond that issue the problem I was trying to fix was around colour reproduction. I've been tinkering with this for years but don't feel like I'll ever solve it without professional help.

Best to ship to Gunblade aka Grant on the other forums.
He is the god of monitors. Sent two to him now.
www.jammaplus.co.uk
www.ukvac.co.uk

BGOllie

did you change the flyback along with the cap kit ?

The Last Bandit

eddhorse wrote: »

Best to ship to Gunblade aka Grant on the other forums.
He is the god of monitors. Sent two to him now.
www.jammaplus.co.uk
www.ukvac.co.uk

Grant won't touch it if previous repair attempts have been made, he'd a post of J+/UKVac recently about it.

remoteboy

BGOllie wrote: »

did you change the flyback along with the cap kit ?

Haven't touched the flyback. Tbh I'm mildly terrified of the voltages running through this thing.

remoteboy

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Grant won't touch it if previous repair attempts have been made, he'd a post of J+/UKVac recently about it.

Good to know. Will have a read through his posts on the subject.

BGOllie

as long as you've discharged the tube there's nothing left there that can hurt. Discharge it a few times with a few minutes in between just to make sure.

what's the issue with the monitor ?
There should be a repair chart handy if you google "hantarex MTC 9000 repair chart"

vertical output ic is starting to go bad maybe? need to check the voltages

it nearly always the same things,as moz says the VO IC,the HOT the lopt and a lot of time the pots are wrote off.
I dont think Ive seen the famous "cap kit" actually work but I always do it.

remoteboy

Ok. I've uploaded a video of the current state of play. As to what's wrong with the picture - quite a lot from what I can see - but specifically I'm honestly not sure. I don't have a lot of latitude for adjustments - for example I have the brightness pot turned up full. If I turn it down even a fraction the entire picture disappears.

Here's a picture of the chassis (turns out it's a 9110 not a 9000)

eddhorse

Hard to see anything from that pic.


Super Sidekicks too, was only playing it today

eddhorse

Steve X2 wrote: »

With Pi2jamma, can you not use any image you like?

I'm working on 3 Hyperpie images(a 8GB, 32GB and 500GB) and Pi2jamma would be a great way of hooking them up to a real arcade machine.

How are you connecting the audio in this setup?

looks like a grounding issue on top of whatever else, try link ground pins on the jamma connector (a short wire from pin 14 to pin 27 on parts side) and see does it improve the image any

I'd post that vid up on UKVAC and someone will tell you exactly what it is.
I forgot to look at that chassis i have last night be I think it is a 9000e.
You could buy a working polo chassis and it would suit that tube.

BGOllie

t moulding and artwork on... Waiting to receive a coin door for it now.

ooh and it's got a Double Dragon board now. thanks to mr Last Bandit for hooking me up with it

Still undecided about whether to do the full grey taito side art on it .

The Last Bandit

I'd leave it like that, not sure the grey side art would improve on it.

BGOllie

my thoughts too ... although photoshop says it could look pretty cool too

Side art for me

eddhorse

Hmmmm if you already have it purchased i would say sideart, if not then its fine as is.

80s Synth Pop

Does anyone know where can you get a flyback and cap kit for a hanterex 9110? I tried therealbobroberts but his shop is closed now.

Other than the flyback and cap kit are there any others maintenance parts you would recommend?

eddhorse

https://iankellogg.com/parts-by-monitor/hantarex/hantarex-mtc-9110.html

Only has a Hantarex Polo flyback:
https://iankellogg.com/hantarex-polo-flyback-transformer.html

Not sure if they are the same. I would contact him.
Also shipping will be expensive