Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

CathalDublin

For future reference
http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?products_id=315&language=en

Doge

CathalDublin wrote: »

For future reference
http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?products_id=315&language=en

Didnt the onwer completely stop sending orders a while back and was unreachable?

It may have been resolvedn now but be careful.

eddhorse

Some people on Jammaplus have ordered from them recently in the last few weeks, with no problems.
You were correct though, they had issues pre xmas.

Ed

foxmcleod

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Daytona USA cabinet. The game was having some issues with the graphics (broken geometry). I took the main and video boards out of the chassis and cleaned the dust. Secured all the connections and put everything back together.

I can hear the game working correctly (and the wheel moves too) but I get no picture on the screen. I have checked the voltage and seems fine.

The previous owner(s?) made some modifications to add a volume control and there are some loose cables.

I'm looking for someone in the Cork area who could check this, help me tidy up the un-needed wiring, and try to fix it for a fair price.

I honestly dont think you'll find someone to fix it around cork.
You'll have to find out if the monitor is working or if its the game board itself.
If its the monitor

Is there a test mode ?
according to the site system13 its sega model 2 hardware

http://www.system16.com/hardware.php?id=713

Check the monitor for neck glow.(google it)
If you have neck glow adjust the brighness on the flyback transformer.
Black box on the chassis with a red wire coming out of it.

If you have no neck glow.
check the input voltage at the monitor.
If it has voltage in I would check the fuse ON the monitor chassis.
It might be hard to see.

Watch out for high volage at the anode cap.the suction cup on the tube.
dont remove it without discharging it.

good luck and post some pics of the cab!

foxmcleod

Haven't noticed neck glow but will double check again.

Just to establish a timeline:

Yesterday morning the game was working. Monitor ok (except some burnin). Graphic glitches (not uncommon in Daytona). I started cleaning the dust on the boards with a dry, clean brush.

After that the problems started:
- Garbled picture + Attract sound , no response to buttons
- Checked the voltage on the Video board connection and the main board connection, it was around 5.05v (i've tried to lower and rise it a bit)
- Stopped getting any picture, still having attract sound, no reaction to buttons.

This morning:
- Without changing anything, I got again garbled graphics and sometimes a blue screen. Attract sound, no reaction to controls

I removed the main and video boards from the chasis (there are a couple of boards more for the wheel force feedback and sound). Cleaned them carefully, plugged everything back together.
- Now I can't tell if the screen is on, I get attract sound and I can press start and the wheel reacts accordingly, start a race etc

Maybe I fried the screen, I don't think it's the brightness as I was getting picture before.

Will check the neck for glow and the fuse. No worries about the high voltage, I'm not an expert but it's not my first rodeo with CRT arcade screens.

Thanks for the help

Keep us posted.

foxmcleod

I checked today and the screen was definitely powering on, just no picture.

Followed the cables from monitor to the video board and I found a loose cable. Plugged it firmly and got image again on the screen.

The clutch is only registering Gears 3 and 4 (G1 sends G3 too, and G2 sends G4)
Force feedback is not working
Still have graphic glitches in track 3

but progress nevertheless

Thanks for the help BrownFinger

With regards to the gear shifter,
I've never worked on one before but I'd imagine each gear has its own micro switch ,
take it apart and see whats going on.

Should have (if im correct) one common (black??) wire looping around to each switch and then each switch will be connected to the loom.

If all wires look good try shorting out the offending swill and see does it work then.
Are you getting into a test mode?

geotrig

geometry and graphic glitches are not related,ones the monitor and ones the boards ...model 2 has lots of issues and when the boards start failing ,they can throw up graphic problems ..iirc depending on the type of graphic glitchs you get it might just need to get the ram cleared ,to clear you need to short across a resistor on one of the boards ,cant remember where now. Any pictures of the glitches and issues youi are having ,picture is worth a 1000 words ?if its the 3d then its more problematic IIRC. There is bound to be quiet a few threads on UKVAC AND J+ about model 2 boards and failing graphics so might be worth a look over there . I cant link to any as i've no access from work

Does your cab definitely have force feedback, what type of cab is it ,standup sitdown ?

foxmcleod

"geometry and graphic glitches are not related,ones the monitor and ones the boards"
Not sure what you mean. I had 2 separate issues: Geometry issues (my guess is corrupted data or malfunctioning GPU) and after that screen showing no image (that was a loose cable, fixed already)

I had already try clearing the ram last saturday, it's the PC62 decoupling cap what you need to short.
( forums.arcade-museum dot com/showthread.php?t=360817 )

I had already tried to post a picture but it won't allow me as I'm "a new member" (I have an older account but I don't seem to be able to recover my password).

imgur dot com/a/lB0ZK

My cab definitely has force feedback, it was working till sunday morning, then it stopped. I can see the driver board registering the wheel position correctly. Tried the driver board test, which simulates all possible forces. Saturday the test was fine, yesterday no effect on the wheel.

For the record I think this is a sit-down that came from splitting in two a sit-down twin cabinet.

geotrig

Any good at reading wiring diagrams ? http://www.gamesdatabase.org/Media/SYSTEM/Arcade/Manual/formated/Daytona_USA_-_1993_-_Sega.pdf

check out near the end as thats where they normally are , you can use it to make sure you have everything connected to the drive boards and power supplies ,your shifter issue sounds like a non working switches /shorting , i think gears 1 /4 , 2/3 are connected or some combination like that

foxmcleod

Thanks for the help.

I'm waiting to move the cabinet to my gaming room where I will have more space to work and will be able to disassemble it completely.

BGOllie

spend the weekend "converting" this old philips 14inch TV and cutting bending and drilling a metal frame for it .
All working nice, jumpered the standby and the pin 8 implementation is all handled by the board already so it starts straight up into AV.
Need to do the same in 19inch now

BGOllie

and I finished a video on it. Lots of mistakes and things breaking but that's all part of it.

BGOllie

moving day for the game room, 1 down 3 more to go

Class.
Are you going to do the ceiling?
If you are you gotta paint it black.!

BGOllie

ceiling is just the rafters and insulation in between. Haven't decided if I'll cover it yet, trying to keep costs as low as possible now
I've one electrical circuit for bright lights and another for signs and neons and leds stuff which'll be the main lights in unless I need to work on a cab and get some proper white light .
why black though ?

BGOllie

BGOllie wrote: »

ceiling is just the rafters and insulation in between. Haven't decided if I'll cover it yet, trying to keep costs as low as possible now
I've one electrical circuit for bright lights and another for signs and neons and leds stuff which'll be the main lights in unless I need to work on a cab and get some proper white light .
why black though ?

It just looks super cool in an Arcade!

BGOllie

I was imagining tons of super technical reasons.. but "super cool" is prob the best reason alright

BGOllie

and that's 2. man these are a pain to move on your own even when taking the monitor and panels out.

The Last Bandit

Oh that's a 'pain' I'd like to experience some day

BGOllie

i didn't complain much if I'm truly honest

BGOllie

all moved in
need a few more light display, some framed stuff and the neon signs
Now I can start working on my next making a donkey Kong cabaret type cab for my Crazy Kong pcb

Chuffed with this,
I repaired this monitor a while back.Busted pots all over the chassis and remote board.
I was dicking around with it then and it started blowing fuses so packed it away in a rage.
Got into a fixing mood this evening and straight away found 2 blown diodes in the bridge rectifier,swapped them out and shes good to go!
Just needs a clean and a paint job and she'll be a minter.



Also installed remote battery holders in my sttng pin and creech pin:D

o1s1n

When can I start sending my chassis to you to fix rather than Grantspain?

o1s1n

o1s1n wrote: »

When can I start sending my chassis to you to fix rather than Grantspain?

Right now if you want to wait 6/8 months before i look at it

Himself and gunblade are so helpfull when it comes to crt repairs.
I think they have seen it all.

The Last Bandit

I think they're the same person ? Ya very helpful alright (both of them)

eddhorse

The Last Bandit wrote: »

I think they're the same person ? Ya very helpful alright (both of them)

Yep Grant Spain is Gunblade

BGOllie

any good site for ordering custom sized repro artwork (bezel, marquee and panel ) ?