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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 15,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Atavan-Halen


    Finally getting the hang of it, slowly but surely getting there!

    87509AC3-E522-4D28-8E53-13E7C365DA0F_zpsj5agazjn.png


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 15,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Atavan-Halen


    50/60hz mod complete!

    https://instagram.com/p/1WJ5migBMe/

    81800183-477D-4456-9FD9-765EE46AEAA2_zpszkfg1r7s.jpg

    Wires need to be shortened a bit but it works and I'm happy! :) region mod is next.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,567 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    My Gods, that Megadrive is naked!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 15,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Atavan-Halen


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    My Gods, that Megadrive is naked!

    Relax, it's just casual Saturday night nudity.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,596 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    nice one. well done. the first mod is always the hardest.

    ... you'll get braver with your second mod and most likely will destroy an otherwise fine system on your third mod :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 30,123 ✭✭✭✭Star Lord


    Good job that lad! :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Finally getting the hang of it, slowly but surely getting there!

    A tip would be to use tinner wire :)
    also when soldering to traces
    • strip the wire (1cm~ish) best to prep both sides of the wire now, have it cut to the length you will need to attach it to whatever you want.
    • use a flux on it and 'tin' it by applying solder to it
    • trim the now tinned end of the wire down to the length that works best for what you want to solder it to
    • have the trace prepped for soldering, a fiberglass pen in your friend - then tin it using flux to aid the solder to attach to the prepped trace
    • lay the tinned tip of the wire over the trace, running in the same direction of the trace and apply a little heat from the soldering iron. A little heat is important, no need to over heat the solder/trace you might just lift/break the trace


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 15,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Atavan-Halen


    Region mod done!

    DE159006-2D78-4EB4-A9BB-97C786A0CAD6_zpsn1ksdz8z.jpg

    Took a few tries to get the connection to the trace right but seems to be ok now. Not 100% sure it's a good connection but I don't want to risk breaking the trace if I keep at it. Just need to mount the switches and all set!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 15,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Atavan-Halen


    And one last pic for completion sake!

    BB4ABC2B-87A3-437F-A1CC-665C66B92B71_zpspr783kl4.jpg

    I won't be using a mega cd with this console so mounted the switches to that side as there's a nice space to do it.

    Big thanks to all you guys who helped me out! And more mods to come hopefully! :D


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 3,182 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dr Bob


    Had bugger all to post in aaages
    (New job and college projects mean feck all time)
    Anyway got a few retro pi's cheap
    I also have some knackered consoles
    putting them together gives me...
    Bionic NES!
    345081.png
    345079.png
    The NES was knackered and I'd stripped it for parts ages ago, so it was just a case.I went in with the idea of minimum soldering , so made use of USB/ HDMI m-f cables and a fair bit of dremelling and hotgluing.The Ninty logo was taken from a ripped NES cart sleeve,which also also created some panels to hide dremeling marks) and thats an old USB led and a square of yellow masking tape acting as the new power light (which saved me a lot of unneeded soldering)
    Ok so firstly yeah ..dirty dirty emulation.And its a 1st gen Pi so it cant handle Ps1 era onwards emulation.
    But! Output to composite or HDMI! up to 4 USB controllers (have a NES adaptor and also a few repro NES usb pads on the way)Netplay! Powered off a usb adaptor so it'll even work powered by the TV's USB port.
    It's running retropi as an OS so on loading you get a really slick menu with emulators listed (NES/SNES/MEG/SMS/C64 ..plus Doom , Quake etc)
    345082.png

    345080.png
    I've a few other totally dead consoles so I'll probably do something similar for a meg1 and possibly something else.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,596 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    great idea. I've two dead Megadrive1 and a dead famicom... I might try this at some point!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 3,182 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dr Bob


    LongZ wrote: »
    great idea. I've two dead Megadrive1 and a dead famicom... I might try this at some point!

    Im working on a meg1 one right now. .looking at a mod to keep the original controllers too ..ill post up some pics tonight


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,719 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Dr Bob wrote: »
    Im working on a meg1 one right now. .looking at a mod to keep the original controllers too ..ill post up some pics tonight

    Seems to be a good option when retaining the original pads

    https://github.com/petrockblog/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Db9_gpio_rpi


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Done a cps2 conversion on a board(already converted to SF2AE) with corrupt audio, assuming the corrupt audio was a rom issue (to mars matrix) but the audio was still corrupt, I found the solution this evening though. Here it is for anyone who may run into the same issues, funny thing is the G Pal that's in there was done by someone with some crazy solder skills, I wonder why they didn't know about the jumper wire needed when they did the original conversion.
    B-board qsound routing error
    93646B-3
    93646B-4
    These earlier boards have what is suspected to be a PCB layout error affecting games that use the G PAL. Instead of routing the high address line of the qsound samples to to pin9 of PAL3, it instead routes a low address line. This results in garbled sounds.
    To fix this, lift pin9 of PAL3 out of socket and solder a jumper wire from it to pin C13 on connector CN3.

    excuse the one handed gameplay, its just to show all audio is now working


    Next up a cps1 daimakaimura conversion, I just need to figure which board the fault on my current cps1 boardset lies before I start.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Nice job! Apparently this was a factory fix on some earlier revision cps2 boards also.

    http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=30349&p=421056&hilit=cps2#p421056


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Nice job! Apparently this was a factory fix on some earlier revision cps2 boards also.

    http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=30349&p=421056&hilit=cps2#p421056

    It looks like your board originally had that factory conversion but someone removed it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,719 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Replaced the battery on the CPS2 board I got from Kerbdog.

    Went with a decent battery holder instead of a soldered battery, I know some folks have fears about the battery falling out but with the top cap on there is no way that battery is coming out accidentally.
    Original battery had a '93 date code so due a refresh :) Unless of course the board is phoenixed already ? Anyway to tell without dumping the roms ?

    17000131940_c7dde8c6a1_z.jpg


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    'Phoenix edition' shows on the boot screen unless its been patched out which is very unlikey all my phoenixed boards use razoola's roms. Do ya have a link for the batteries, might do a couple of mine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Phoenix edition roms won't work with a battery, so I'd say yours is stock for certain :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,719 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Cool beans :)

    I got the bits from ie.farnell.com - part numbers: 1650673, 2293263, 1365935


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    That battery holder is the job, gotta pick me up some of them!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Can anyone recommend a good(cheap) GAL programmer
    I think this was recommended before


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,870 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Can you just buy acetone in hardware stores in Ireland? Or is it restricted in the amount you can buy?
    It's basically just nail polish remover, but I need about a gallon of it. Don't fancy buying up 20 or 30 small bottles in Boots :)

    I use it to treat ABS plastic and am now doing a lot more, so stealing some from the GF's makeup bag is no longer an option :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    I need about a gallon of it

    Steve's house shortly

    4e84d1541b070.image_.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,870 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Myrddin wrote: »
    Steve's house shortly

    4e84d1541b070.image_.jpg

    Haha, the kitchen does be like a meth lab when I'm treating the plastic. So if they did come in, it wouldn't look good for me :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,719 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Any decent fibreglass supplier will have it.

    http://www.glassfibre.ie/index.php/our-products


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,870 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Any decent fibreglass supplier will have it.

    http://www.glassfibre.ie/index.php/our-products

    Cheers, that looks like my best bet. Cheap as well :)

    Only discovered acetone vapour treatment on ABS plastics recently, works great if you do it right.

    Edit:
    Image on the right is a pretty high res 3D print, left is after an acetone vapour bath. Not suitable for every print, but works well on some.
    HCAbxta.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 30,123 ✭✭✭✭Star Lord


    Yeah, I was reading up about those before, has a nice smoothing effect which works great so long as you're not going for fine detail.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,870 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Star Lord wrote: »
    Yeah, I was reading up about those before, has a nice smoothing effect which works great so long as you're not going for fine detail.

    Yeah, even a very quick bath will smooth it a bit and keep the detail (mostly).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,994 ✭✭✭Doge


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    Cheers, that looks like my best bet. Cheap as well :)

    Only discovered acetone vapour treatment on ABS plastics recently, works great if you do it right.

    Edit:
    Image on the right is a pretty high res 3D print, left is after an acetone vapour bath. Not suitable for every print, but works well on some.
    HCAbxta.jpg

    It makes the owl look very Dark Vaderesque! :)


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