The Defender thread

happybob

SafeSurfer wrote: »

If you are taxing it privately it will have to be NCT'd. Motir tax will be €1080 per year. I have a Td5 90 pickup myself and find them to be a good reliable engine. The only issue I have had in 8 years has been the fuel pump. Apart from that and the wiper motor going it has gone like clockwork.
I have had difficulty getting a tdi NCT'd because the log book said it was a 10 seater and the NCT refused to test anything over 9 seats.

I've just had my commercially taxed 90 for it's first CVT. On this, the RSA web site says if the vehicle is a commercial, it will need to have a CVT, irrespective of how it is taxed. Seems the classification on the registration is the determinant for this, not the taxing.

Depending on what you work at, you might still consider commercial tax. Whilst the declaration says one thing, in practice I think the authorities are sensible about this. For example, most van owners would have to sign declarations yet revenue still allow for the collection of BIK on any associated private use. Nobody is going to make them all pay private tax .... There is a clear absence of joined up thinking between revenue, DOE, councils and the Gardai.

SafeSurfer

Has anybody upgraded their standard Defender lights? As the evenings get shorter the poor light from the headlights is noticeable. What's the best way to improve this? Spots? Hid lights? LED lights seem great but are very expensive. Any ideas?

dantastic

Your first port of call would be a relay headlight upgrade and possibly some osram nightbreakers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKr9t56tJxg

If that's not good enough proper LED headlights are next port of call. These are expensive, you are looking at around €800. The LED headlights are vastly superior to anything else and if you haven't seen them before it's mind blowing!

Don't waste your time with HID and the like. Money pit and not legal on Defender. Save your money for an LED upgrade.

101sean

As Dan says, check the basics first like the earths and all the connections. Then put relays in the main and dip circuits fed by fused feeds from the battery, lessens the strain on the switches which are prone to burning out and ensures the bulbs get the full 12V.

My 101 and lightweight have both had that done and are pretty bright with standard bowls and H4s.

LEDs are half the price they were a couple of years ago but still very expensive.

SafeSurfer

Thanks Dan and Sean. I will start saving for some LEDs. I am in the middle of replacing my instrument dash bulbs with LED bulbs from landlubber.co.uk. All was going well until the last bulb for the analogue clock. The other bulbs are easy to replace but the one for the clock is smaller and I can't see where it fits in without unscrewing the clock itself. Something I don't want to do as a new analogue clock is over 200 quid. Any ideas?

happybob

SafeSurfer wrote: »

Thanks Dan and Sean. I will start saving for some LEDs. I am in the middle of replacing my instrument dash bulbs with LED bulbs from landlubber.co.uk. All was going well until the last bulb for the analogue clock. The other bulbs are easy to replace but the one for the clock is smaller and I can't see where it fits in without unscrewing the clock itself. Something I don't want to do as a new analogue clock is over 200 quid. Any ideas?

I replaced mine with some fairly standard higher output bulbs from Halfords and find them fine. I've had to replace a couple over 12 months. I suspect it could relate to impact shocks from pot holes, rather than anything to do with bulb quality.

Whilst someone mentioned legality of bulbs, has anyone heard of anyone getting into trouble for having unapproved bulbs installed?

happybob

I've had one master and one slave cylinder changed in a 132 defender thus far. Dealer is now replacing a slave again as a 'precaution' following discovery that clutch fluid is being consumed somewhere in the system. Seems they were not able to verify exactly where it was going. Found myself very gradually reaching further to the floor during changes so checked the fluid and booked it in.

Question: Is it common to have clutch cylinder problems on newer Defenders, or, is there perhaps some element of driver behaviour contributing to this. In reality I'd expect the system to be able withstand a driver who was heavy handed, or footed, as the case may be.

Habits:
- Sometimes at lights holding vehicle in position with clutch at biting point
- - Usually, alternatively out of gear but holding foot brake instead of reaching down for hand brake (lazy!)
- Very occasional dump if wearing different shoes, or, switching back from driving the SOH's car
- Always parked in gear (don't trust handbrake much)

Is there some super-duper aftermarket replacement part that can be installed in place of the Landrover parts?

happybob

Can wheel's be touched up with spray paint in place or should they be taken off and professional touched up? Picked up rotational scratches in deep boggy mud (stones and rocks in).

For a re-spray, is there some place you can go to that can professionally remove the wheels, paint them, put the tyres back on, balance them and put them back on properly torqued as part of an integral service?

Cautious about going to a paint shop who might not be properly equipped or qualified to do the end to end job properly?

happybob

Anyone experiences with or recommendations for:

1. Spare wheel carrier for the back door so that the weight isn't being carried on the door (wife says just sling it in the back ...)

2. Bicycle carriers that will work with the tow bar and spare wheel in place. Not expecting to be able to open back door with bicycles on but it should would be a bonus. Mines a 90 van so fitting an adult bike in the back is a bit of a 3D challenge.

SafeSurfer

happybob wrote: »

Anyone experiences with or recommendations for:

1. Spare wheel carrier for the back door so that the weight isn't being carried on the door (wife says just sling it in the back ...)

2. Bicycle carriers that will work with the tow bar and spare wheel in place. Not expecting to be able to open back door with bicycles on but it should would be a bonus. Mines a 90 van so fitting an adult bike in the back is a bit of a 3D challenge.

I have been looking for a swing away spare wheel carrier and bike rack myself.
extreme4x4.co.uk do a good quality wheel carrier with optional high lift jack mount http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_REAR_WHEEL_CARRIERS.html
They can be galvanised or powder coated or both. For deliveries outside of UK you have to phone them.
The Mantec wheel carrier also gets good reviews http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-parts/214-swcdef-mantec-swing-away-spare-wheel-carrier-fits-all-90110-and-series-3.html

For bike carriers I have been looking at tow bar mountable ones that can take 4 bikes and which allow access to rear door.
The one I liked was the Thule Apex swing away bike carrier, they are pricey though. There are simpler bike carriers that attach to your spare wheel, and are high enough to clear the tow bar and cost much less, like http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php/car-specific-accessories/pendle_2_bike_spare_wheel_rack_including_mounting_plate_d/Qx@w,6M4,ME%7D@nkCu5P5zqBAFf.MRYV7RKO6Y.8Rg%60QiulmpGyCgO.6dPli,8YBfhqRE35aX2xH8wv3JN

happybob

SafeSurfer wrote: »

I have been looking for a swing away spare wheel carrier and bike rack myself.
extreme4x4.co.uk do a good quality wheel carrier with optional high lift jack mount http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_REAR_WHEEL_CARRIERS.html
They can be galvanised or powder coated or both. For deliveries outside of UK you have to phone them.
The Mantec wheel carrier also gets good reviews http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-parts/214-swcdef-mantec-swing-away-spare-wheel-carrier-fits-all-90110-and-series-3.html

For bike carriers I have been looking at tow bar mountable ones that can take 4 bikes and which allow access to rear door.
The one I liked was the Thule Apex swing away bike carrier, they are pricey though. There are simpler bike carriers that attach to your spare wheel, and are high enough to clear the tow bar and cost much less, like http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php/car-specific-accessories/pendle_2_bike_spare_wheel_rack_including_mounting_plate_d/Qx@w,6M4,ME%7D@nkCu5P5zqBAFf.MRYV7RKO6Y.8Rg%60QiulmpGyCgO.6dPli,8YBfhqRE35aX2xH8wv3JN

Thanks. Not too keen on the wheel mounted bike carrier options; there's already more than enough weight on there. Other options are good though.

101sean

HB, a multitude of questions!

Bulbs, if they are H4 and pass NCT/DOE you'll be fine. Tester isn't going to pull them to check wattage and E markings.

Wheels, if they are steels slap what you like on, it's a Defender, can't recall what shade of white is used. You'd buy new rims cheaper than a respray. If they are alloys, it is worth getting them professionally refurbed.

Wheel carriers, multitude of designs out there, IMHO, the Paddocks offering is as good as a Mantec at half the price. Get down to Easons and buy one of the comics, there's some new designs out there. A chassis mounted carrier is more than capable of carrying bikes as well as the spare, you've no other choice with a Defender as tow ball mounted won't clear the spare wheel. You'll also need a trailer board as bikes will obscure the lights. Otherwise, get a roofrack.

Clutch, main dealers are muppets but your habit of holding vehicle on the clutch is really bad, seriously shortens clutch life and a change ain't cheap. Your other actions won't affect it but the transmission brake is very effective. None of your habits affect cylinder life though.

It's usually a good idea to change master, slave and flexi hose at the same time (surprised at need in a 132 though, usually last for years, then they go regularly!). Signs of problems are fluid on the clutch pedal or fluid dripping from the bell housing but sometimes the master will just bypass seals with no leaks. At least you won't have the clutch fork breaking that was rife on earlier Defenders. Use genuine LR or OEM parts, if dealer used blue box ****parts he should be shot.

happybob

Thanks Sean.

The brings up another one I meant to ask. I've been told previously that anti-roll bars and steel wheels are not compatible. My original choice would have been steel but I went with the sawtooths instead.

Any reason you are aware of for this supposed incompatibility?

Are the road manners significantly worse if the anti-roll bars are removed?

101sean

My reply was surprising coherent given that I'd been on the sauce all afternoon!

Can't see what the roll bars have to do with wheel type. I suspect that certain specs have alloys and bars, basic vehicles have steels and no bars.

My 2000 110 is a CSW and had alloys and no anti-roll bars. You'll have a bit more roll on bends without them, it's never bothered me but I'd just fit the steels and leave the bars alone.

Icyseanfitz

hi lads, im back i am looking to convert my 1988 2.5 petrol 110 into a diesel, i cant afford the costs of running the old petrol anymore i guess im looking for a recommendation for a very fuel efficient diesel engine to put into it (is there even an engine with good efficiency that can be put into it?) and roughly what im looking for cost wise (presume a new gearbox is probably needed as well?) all in with labour, any info would be very much appreciated as i would really really like to keep the old girl

O.A.P

300 tdi, 200 tdi,(old and hard to
find now) or maybe a td5.
All of them between 1200 and 3000 for engine and an r380 gearbox plus Labour
If you are capable of fitting it yourself and have loads of time , you still have an engine that will only get 30mpg tops and 25mpg more often.
Imo not worth it, but I would keep it inside and fix all that needs doing over time .
Then have a toy or eventually an asset.

101sean

Easiest conversion is 200Tdi as is or 300 tdi with your petrol bellhousing fitted. Usual source is a knackered Discovery but a Disco 200tdi has the turbo in the wrong place. 300tdi is easier but most are getting long in the tooth, especially in Ireland. If going down this route, buy a complete rotten Disco as you'll need the transfer box (see below)

TD5 would need you to fit all the looms, electornics and gearbox and isn't worth it.

Fitting any other engine will need conversion plates and a lot of other mods.

The other thing as well is you'd have to change your transfer box, it will be 1.667, you need at least a 1.41 box. When the Irish Army fitted 200Tdi kits to their petrol 110s they ignored Land Rovers advice to change the transfer boxes and revved the nuts off the engines.

An alternative would be to lpg your engine.

The latest diesel craze though if you are seriously in to fabrication is is a Cummins BT6 and gearbox out of Leyland DAF 45 mated to the LT230 transfer box.

Icyseanfitz

thanks for all the info guys! would anyone know of a person in kerry that would be very handy with landrovers? id love to be able to all this myself but i dont have the know how or time

no12

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

thanks for all the info guys! would anyone know of a person in kerry that would be very handy with landrovers? id love to be able to all this myself but i dont have the know how or time

https://m.facebook.com/4x4westcoast?_rdr

SafeSurfer

I am thinking of replacing my rusted hinge and rear cross member bolts with stainless steel ones. I have heard that they can be worse for causing rust than standard fixings because of the contact between different grades of metal. Has anyone experienced this? Would I be better off using OEM fixings and plenty of copper grease?

dantastic

Stainless and steel is fine. It's the alu that will corrode.
http://aluminumsurface.blogspot.ie/2009/04/corrosion-between-anodized-aluminum-and.html

BMJD

anyone need an ambulance?

http://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/land-rover-defender/7667495

would this qualify as a camper if converted?

101sean

The 6ft headroom rule is back apparently, check the motorhome forum.

Looks like a Locomotors bodied version, always popular as overland campers if they meet the rules.

Icyseanfitz

just got a quote for for a defender 200tdi engine(not a discovery) including a new timing belt, tensioner, clutch, starter, alternator, radiator etc. and a full service for €1250 is this a good deal? will it give me a nice boost economy wise compared to my 2.5 petrol???

101sean

Icyseanfitz, that's an OK price probably with a new clutch and if they'll give you a bit of a warranty on it. You need to weigh up what saving the diesel will give, should get 28- 30mpg, may be more on a run assuming you get the transfer box changed as well.

O.A.P

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

just got a quote for for a defender 200tdi engine(not a discovery) including a new timing belt, tensioner, clutch, starter, alternator, radiator etc. and a full service for €1250 is this a good deal? will it give me a nice boost economy wise compared to my 2.5 petrol???

Is that fitted ?
If that's the engine in yeah good deal get a bit of warranty (6 months would be very good 3 months more likely) on paper.
Good luck with it anyway and please let us know how it works out.

sheesh

BMJD wrote: »

anyone need an ambulance?

http://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/land-rover-defender/7667495

would this qualify as a camper if converted?

Anyone know what that went for?

Stella Virgo

a well kept "mud plugger"

101sean

I need to sell my soul for one of these, an ex Australian Army Perentie 110. Built in 1985 by JRA on a galvanised chassis and with an Isuzu diesel. They are being imported in to the UK, this one was up for £13,200

Icyseanfitz

how much should i be looking at for a power steering unit? i was quoted 350 including fitting, is that a decent price?

oh and the engine im getting put in is from a 1994 defender with 140k on the clock, is that kind of mileage is alright on these engines?

and one quick question re washing my 110, can i put it through one of those automatic petrol station washing machines? Dont mind a liitle leaking as long as i dont break anything