The Defender thread

O.A.P

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

sparkman

O.A.P wrote: »

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

sparkman

O.A.P wrote: »

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

MedusaV8

sparkman wrote: »

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

Get the parts from Paddocks in the UK. We bought just a single UJ from Mayo Motorspares for €50 in an emergency. Bought some additional spares from Paddocks for £12 each. The new UJ were GKN not Britpart.

101sean

Did the UJ break up or was it just loose bolts?

If the UJ broke up, the yokes may be too badly damaged to repair. A whole new propshaft isn't that expensive from Paddocks (it will be GKN), replaced mine not long ago as the splines were shot. Remember to order replacement nyloc nuts for the propshaft bolts as well, they are UNF, not Metric. Buy a propshaft nut removal tool while you are at it, makes life a lot easier.
http://www.paddockspares.com/da1119-propshaft-bolt-removal-tool-usually-14-50gbp.html

sparkman

UJ and propshaft 'look' ok but a CVRT tester told me a while back that he saw a bit of play in it. I think it was just about to give while I was driving but didn't come apart till I was literally outside my own door. Can't see any obvious other damage underneath. Pic attached...

101sean

Are the cups still in the yoke lying on the ground (One has to be gone for it to fall apart)? If they are missing, where they sit in the yoke may have been damaged by the spider thrashing around.

If there's any damage to the yoke or play in the sliding joint splines, change the whole thing.

sparkman

Tks a million. I found one of the cups on the ground. I'll have a proper look in daylight for damage but at this stage I might just be safer to replace the whole thing just so I can relax

sparkman

Tks a million. I found one of the cups on the ground. I'll have a proper look in daylight for damage but at this stage I might just be safer to replace the whole thing just so I can relax

foxy farmer

Quick question for anyone with TD5 engine. Is it normal to have slow throttle response after starting the engine. Whe i start mine either when hot or cold if i floor the pedal it runs at medium revs but after a few secs it will suddenly pick up and run flat out. Taking off with a trailer usually conks it. Diesel filter changed about a month ago. I have noticed this with a few months back.

banjolin

I don't think its that unusual. Mine does it now and then and I used to think "turbo lag" but that couldn't really be the case at those low speeds. The throttle is fly by wire and the ECU may be doing something. You should be able to take your foot off the clutch with no accelerator without stalling, with or without a trailer. I did it with three tonnes on the back a few weeks ago and not a bother. It is a built in anti-stall feature. Don't drop it, just ease it off as you would normally. If it doesn't work there may be an issue.

Changing the fuel filter is no guarantee that there is no sludge still in the tank and at low fuel levels it can be slow to pick up if there is some gunk floating around. That would be my guess if everything else is working as it should.

No expert but that's my experience. Its amazing how many things you can learn to live with.

sparkman

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

sparkman

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

sparkman

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

foxy farmer

Right probably me being a bit particular about something normal. Just avoid gone in 60 sec wheel spinnning take offs. Don't have a heavy right foot, maybe just taking off a bit too fast. Just giving her the once over as DOE is out since before the holidays. Hand brake needs tightening as its coming up too far. 5-6 clicks before its gripping.

101sean

It shouldn't do it at all, could be the sign of the pump starting to fail. Also check you don't have a diesel leak above the starter, that would be the FPR on it's way (they all do it around 90k)

The ECU has two maps and anti-stall, when in low range the throttle response is slower. You can check if that works by holding the throttle at about 1500 revs and changing from high to low, the engine note will change.

The anti-stall will pull a fully laden trailer in low range without touching the throttle, just let the clutch out, handy for getting out of a slippery field without spinning the wheels. I've driven an ABS/ETC fitted 90 around an off road course without touching the throttle or brakes, was positively boring though!

Once you're moving though the TD5 likes mucho revs, clutch and DMF will last longer if you don't pussy foot around.

101sean

A couple of other things could cause the slow response -

Oil in the injector loom, check the ecu red plug for oil

A dodgy lot of fuel causing diesel bug slime in the filter on the bottom of the pump.

Adjust the handbrake at the drum first (17mm spanner) before doing anything to the cable.

foxy farmer

Let me see now
Engine runs and pulls fine when running just those few seconds after starting if i go to pull away its likely she'll conk before clutch is up full. The fuel regulator was done within the last 18 months and seems dry. Fuel pump does whine on occasion if level goes low. ECU plug has very minute trace of oil but nothing untoward. Have been using my own tank for diesel. Plastic one indoors with 5yrs bought new. 72k on clock now.

101sean

She's low miles.

I'd change the injector loom next service, cheap and quick to do, and flush the oil out of the plug with brake cleaner. Probably not causing the problem but it's worth sorting.

I'd be inclined to think fuel pump, you could get it tested (involves putting a pressure tester on the FPR and seeing if you get 4 bar) but I'd live with it for now and see if it gets any worse.

You're supposed to drop the tank to get at the pump but it's easier cut a hole in the floor to access it and plate it after. Do a google search and you'll find a sketch of where to make the cuts.

roman0red

Hi Sean

Looking for some advice on changing a frt wiper assembly on my 03 TD5. Drivers side wiper is slipping on the wiper cable that extends from the wiper motor.
I've checked a few forums and it looks like a very messy job - just wonder if you have undertaken this in the past and had any tips?

Thanks
Eamon

O.A.P

Its a dash out job and that makes it a bit fiddly and time consuming , if the cable is worn take it out and turn it around that way the worn splines wont effect anything.
The cogs on the arm itself maybe worn ,that would need to be replaced if its the case.
Either way dash out to fix and that was a days work the first time I did it, I can take it out and put it back in or around 3 hours now though, after 5 or 6 times doing it.

banjolin

Some advice. It IS a dash out job and there are LOTS of screws. I've had it off twice and each time I had screws left over. So label the screws as you remove them. I did the second time and still managed to have some left.:rolleyes:
While you have the dash out check the top of the bulkhead for any rust.

101sean

Yep, dash top off at least!

If it is the wheelbox, do not buy a Britpart one or you'll be doing the job again in a year!

Without checking, I think Td5 wiper parts are different to earlier ones so be careful when ordering.

If your washer jet pings off in the frost, you can just about change that through the ashtray hole!

As banjolin says, you will have screws left over too, plenty missing out of my dash.

banjolin

Good point about the washer. I have had five replacements and this is just the weather for it to happen. I don't replace the whole unit any more. One day I actually saw it pop off onto the bonnet as I drove along slowly and I managed to retrieve it and put it back on, only for it to pop off again when I wasn't paying so much attention. When you buy a new unit you can heat the nozzle in boiling water (the bit that goes on the outside) and pop it off the pipe. So long as the inner part that projects from the bulkhead isn't damaged you can pop the new nozzle onto it with some strong glue. Better still drill it with a fine bit and pop a small screw in.

roman0red

Guys thanks for the feedback n tips. I've had the dash off a few times running a cable to the radio n replacing a wiper relay switch and yes I ended up with spare screws. ��

I saw the references on the various forums about not using spurious parts for this particular job so I need to order genuine Landrover parts. not good timing given the weather conditions and I don't know what to order until I disassemble the various parts so I'm looking at a few days off the road ��.

Thanks n I'll let you know how I get on

101sean

Allmakes and Bearmach parts are usually OK, genuine can often be reasonably priced though.

roman0red

Folks
This one has stumped me - dash out and I now have access to the wheels boxes but for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the wiper arm..... doh!

See pic attached - it's a 03 TD5

Any suggestions??

Cheers

101sean

It should just pull off, from all that white stuff it looks like it's corroded on to the spindle.

If you don't have a small puller, tap around it with a small hammer to break the seal. If that's the wheel box you are replacing just cut through the spindle and drive it out on the bench.

O.A.P

Try Will Smiths way


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFmdSLs1EUw

banjolin

I'm sure there must be a law against that. In public anyway.