The Defender thread

aaakev

No chain ether! He said it has gears for timimg... old engine maybe?

Rovi

Zeus Engineering used to do an aftermarket timing gear kit for the Tdi engine; I wonder if it's fitted with one of those?

Mycroft H

Rovi wrote: »

Zeus Engineering used to do an aftermarket timing gear kit for the Tdi engine; I wonder if it's fitted with one of those?

Forgot about those. I've seen them in magazines but never seen one in action. Horribly noisy I'd imagine. Oil bath too?

From googling, I can see why they never took off. Never were too reliable in service compared to the belt system.

aaakev

Spoke to him again and he said the original parkins engines in 200tdi were all gear timed....

O.A.P

aaakev wrote: »

Spike to him again and he said the original parkins engines in 200tdi were all gear timed....

He has it advertised as a 2.4 too, so maybe he not sure what it is or what work has been done on it.
Go careful with this one aaakev.

dantastic

The 200tdi has a timing belt. The 200tdi was used (in the Defender) between 90-94. The one you are looking at is a 93 so it's not going to have some weird and wonderful pre-production engine. LR often did let go of some funky creations but this is not it.

As far as I know LR never came fitted with any Perkins engine around here anyway.

Post a picture!

Mycroft H

aaakev wrote: »

Spoke to him again and he said the original parkins engines in 200tdi were all gear timed....

Both the 200tdi/300tdi/TD5 were all in house Land Rover creations.

The 200/300tdi all had timing belts. Depending on how many miles the engine has done (may not match the clock if it's the original), it may be needing a change. Every 60,000 miles it's due a change (could be 65,000 it's been a while since I've had a defender).


The 200tdi.



Here's the said timing belt with the water pump removed.



As said. Proceed with caution, this lad is either really mis-informed or a spoofer. If you're really curious, you could bring a screwdriver and remove the housing inspection plate and prove it's a belt.

Rovi

Didn't the 2.4 VM fitted to the first diesel Range Rovers have timing gears?
It hardly has one of these, has it???

Mycroft H

I thought they were a timing chain but I could be wrong. I'd really need to see it actually, I'm curious now.

aaakev

He says he knows them well. He is a mechanic and did all the work himself last year.i called him back on the timing and he seemed to have an answer for all ky questions. Didn't get to him today so will try get down for a look tomorrow. Meetimg him at the garage he works in so will get it up on a ramp too

dantastic

It probably won't turn out to be all that interesting, considering...

"The original 2.4l Perkins 200tdi had timing gears"

I imagine the seller is just a bit misinformed...

Mycroft H

aaakev wrote: »

He says he knows them well. He is a mechanic and did all the work himself last year.i called him back on the timing and he seemed to have an answer for all ky questions. Didn't get to him today so will try get down for a look tomorrow. Meetimg him at the garage he works in so will get it up on a ramp too

Did you go have a look at it?

aaakev

No trying to get over the last few days but too busy in work to do it!

banjolin

My 2005 XS has just started to give me the finger (brake, abs and tc lights on) and garage says fault code 3 sticking ABS pump or something like that.
The wifes 2001 Mini has a similar problem and has been off the road since Oct due to no NCT. I can't afford a new abs module and repairs (BBS Reman) and replacement from a breaker have all failed to resolve the Mini.
I am really not sure how to approach this with the Defender. Does anyone have any experience of this ABS problem? Is it repairable? Can I remove it? Apparently replacement part is 2400 euro, and I thought the mini was bad.

Any guidance would be most welcome.

101sean

You really need to get it plugged in properly with dedicated LR fault reader to pinpoint it and also clear the faults. If the lights come back straight away it's a bigger problem, if it comes back after a a bit of a trip, it's intermittent, light comes on after an intermittent fault has happened 255 times.

It's rare for the pump/modulator to fail in itself, it's usually a broken electrical plug inside it which shows as Shuttle Switch Failure, it's the same thing that lights the three amigos in Disco IIs (google three amigos and you'll come up with hundreds of pages!) which use the same unit.

If it is that, it's fixable cheaply, you can buy the shuttle switch and bypass the broken plug. It's an official US army modification as the Humvee uses the same unit.
See here for the DII fix http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html

I had to replace the switch in my Defender, get at it through the air intake on the side of the wing, undo the mountng bolts, lever the unit up without undoing brake pipes and drop the switch out. Mine worked for a while after just replacing the switch but my lights have come back on again so I need to do the bypass once I've worked out what wires to cut.

I've also had wheel sensor failure, thankfully these are getting cheaper and a I got a rear pair and loom for £30 off ebay last year.

I have a Wabco diagnostic pdf somewhere, I'll post it up.

banjolin

Thanks Sean. Just been down to the garage, he's working late. Plugged it in and cleared the fault and drove it. Lights off. Switched off engine and restarted. Lights on again. Fault is pump failure 3 (sticking pump). No other fault. Not looking good for a quick fix.

banjolin

I have been searching for a solution to the abs pump problem and in a number of cases people claim to have have successfully used Discovery 2 modulators as replacements. However, elsewhere several people have stated that they will not work. I wonder if the pump from a Discovery unit could be taken off and used to replace the pump on the Defender unit. Are the modulators breakable? I'm asking because it seems only the pump is faulty. If anybody has any insights I would be grateful.

Thanks

101sean

As far as I can see the modulators are identical but the wiring from the main plugs to the ecus differ, Defender uses a standard Wabco ABS ECU but in the Disco it's incorporated in the SLABS ECU.

I think it's this unit - http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm39.pdf

If you download a RAVE manual for Defender and D2, you'll be able to compare the pin outs with WABCO diagrams

Note that if you drain fluid out of the modulator itself you'll have to plug it in to make it power bleed itself.

banjolin

Thanks again. Out of my comfort zone now. Seriously contemplating selling it if it needs a lot of work. I can't go through what I have been through with the damned Mini.

happybob

So:
- 13k/km, Sawtooths and Wrangler MTRs.
- Approaching 80km/h start to get kind of a whirring noise.
- Noise seems to fade out again around 100km/h.
- Can't remember when it started so its probably 'developed' over time.
- On research, symptoms seemed a match for bearing problems, but dealer checked and says issue is not mechanical.
- Noise seems more pronounced on smooth tarmac.
- That could be a sign, or, just because there is less /other/ road noise on smooth tarmac.
- Sounds to me like its coming from front rather than rear, but difficult to pin.
- Sound remains present when clutch is in and/or gear box in neutral, so definitely seems wheel based.

Is it known for MTRs to be particularly noisy without necessarily accompanying some other issue?

Presumably clutch in, the shafts/drive to wheels are all still spinning so there could be some issue in the drive train not necessarily at the hub itself?

101sean

Could well be the tyres, coarser the tread, the noisier they are and it may be that your fronts have worn to a stage where they are getting particularly noisy?

Try swappng them front to rear and see if that makes any difference.

Dighire4u

Hi mud tyres make more noise the faster u go and don't usually start to sing till about 50mph I think u have another problem. When was the last time diff oils and gearbox / transfer box had oil change and what type of oil is in gearbox what mileage is on jeep.

happybob

Don't know about the oils, it is dealer maintained and just had a major service. They did indicate an issue with the seals on both the transfer box and rear differential, possibly attributable to a knock, but TBH I haven't been rock climbing or anything close in it. Couple of forestry green lanes and beach has been it. Could have taken a hit in a hole on what we euphamistically call 'roads' in this country but don't recall anything noteworthy.

Even with the seals, one presumes they've topped up the fluids while they wait for new seals to come in. I also wouldn't expect any possible related noise to come in at 80kph nor to change much on different surfaces.

Weight of evidence is starting to lean towards tyres but I want to ensure that thesis is properly validated.

Noise wasn't there from the off and has been getting gradually worse so a match to worn tyres could be it. Before I consider the business of swapping wheels (have no facilities myself) I might try running the tyres at a higher pressure to see is there any noticable change.

Also due CVT soon so there'll be a free second opinion ... thanks for the tips.

Dighire4u

You still never said mileage but if u have a main dealer working on it I won't say anymore because I don't trust any of them they just get kids leaving school pay them ****e money and charge the customer €80 a hour and fit new parts.

happybob

- 13k/km; way too early generally for bearing issues.

I believe the dealer - HBD - have reasonably mature experienced staff. Probably have received factory training too. Guess it depends on the dealer in question but I'm guessing there are some controls that apply to authorised main dealers.

O.A.P

happybob wrote: »

Also due CVT soon so there'll be a free second opinion ... thanks for the tips.

How do you manage to get that?

101sean

Dealers will be using genuine correct oils (but charging a fortune for it) and can't really get the basics wrong. Where they fall down often is if a fault is unusual ("but they all do that sir, it's normal") or isn't logged on the computer, then an experienced independent (who may well have started at a dealer) is often a better bet. If you find a good dealer, praise them but most are muppets.

I'd still lean towards the tyres at this stage, if you have no facilities at all to do it, any tyre place will swap them round for you for a few euro.

Yawlboy

Help - Rear doors on my 1993 110 CSW are ROTTEN, the one on the drivers side is completely beyond repair. Can anyone point me in the direction of a pair please.

101sean

Standard problem, doors on my 00 are well gone. A good welder can take them apart and repair them with repair sections from YRM metal solutions. Trouble is the aluminium skins will probably have suffered from electrolytic corrosion.

If they really are too far gone, you'll struggle to find replacements here. There will be some on ebay in the UK but they will usually need some repairs.

You can buy new (Craddocks have some on ebay for £350 each). S&P have been getting good reports for their new patten doors at around £250 each. Secondhand post 05 zintec steel doors will cost £250 - 500. Someone out there is also making fibreglass doors for around £200 each.

Yawlboy

Hi Sean,

Thanks for the info - whats S&P? I found the fibreglass ones - £350 each unpainted..... ouch.