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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,403 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    I want to use a shed down pipe to fill an Ibc.
    the ibc will be on a tractor trailer. it will be drawn to the garden for flowers.
    any ideas of some sort of swinging arm set up so I can swing it away and into the drain off when the Ibc is full?
    the ibc has a hole in the top of it about 300 x 300. so lots of room to play with.
    the drain pipe comes down in front of an rsj.


  • Registered Users Posts: 86 ✭✭RedRag


    Google 3p technik filtersysteme It has a green knob that you turn to divert to a water butt or let water flow straight through your downpipe. I have one, haven't set it up yet as I'm looking for a black IBC tank. Plan is to harvest water off the garage into IBC. The 3p technik filtersysteme fits standard 110mm pipe I believe.
    This could work for you.
    https://www.tanks.ie/3p-filter-collector-with-universal-connection-kit.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtJ2FBhAuEiwAIKu19jMNsO5m973La2CBRcNz1ZEGgoSNk-gtK-h-EmuqlVqM2gLgsIchVhoCMiUQAvD_BwE


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,146 ✭✭✭DBK1


    RedRag wrote: »
    Google 3p technik filtersysteme It has a green knob that you turn to divert to a water butt or let water flow straight through your downpipe. I have one, haven't set it up yet as I'm looking for a black IBC tank. Plan is to harvest water off the garage into IBC. The 3p technik filtersysteme fits standard 110mm pipe I believe.
    This could work for you.
    https://www.tanks.ie/3p-filter-collector-with-universal-connection-kit.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtJ2FBhAuEiwAIKu19jMNsO5m973La2CBRcNz1ZEGgoSNk-gtK-h-EmuqlVqM2gLgsIchVhoCMiUQAvD_BwE
    I never heard of these before but they look a super job. I set up something similar to what have2flush is looking for last year using fittings, I’ll put up a pic of it later. If I had known that filter existed I definitely would have used that.

    The only downside i can see is if the ibc is required to be taken away from the down pipe the hose will have to be connected and disconnected every time. A simple cam lock adapter like what is used on water pumps or sprayer tanks would make that simple to do anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭Pussyhands


    I want to use a shed down pipe to fill an Ibc.
    the ibc will be on a tractor trailer. it will be drawn to the garden for flowers.
    any ideas of some sort of swinging arm set up so I can swing it away and into the drain off when the Ibc is full?
    the ibc has a hole in the top of it about 300 x 300. so lots of room to play with.
    the drain pipe comes down in front of an rsj.

    If you have the downpipe in two parts, and you have a 45 degree end to the pipe, you can just take off the bottom half of the downpipe, and attach the 45 degree end onto the bottom of the top half of the downpipe...


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,239 ✭✭✭Pussyhands


    Thoughts on this as if it works it could save me a few headaches - namely having anything to do with my nemesis, a petrol water pump that refuses to work 100% of the time I really need it.

    I often see farmers asking how to pump water, my own issue is often the sources of water on my farm are in low spots with no flow, ponds, lakes etc. If something lower tech works then I'd rather not be dicking around with engines, solar, or windmills.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHJUl5wl9WI&t=3s

    If the above gets water out of a pond or lake, the next question I'd have is would it then drive a ram pump to pump water uphill?

    I watched the video before reading further comments and I believed it was basically a siphon. Water flowing out of the tank sucks water up the inlet pipe.

    Outlet pipe needs to be longer and outlet needs to be lower than the inlet.

    Similar workings here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFRwSkDVH3A


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,643 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Pussyhands wrote: »
    I watched the video before reading further comments and I believed it was basically a siphon. Water flowing out of the tank sucks water up the inlet pipe.

    Outlet pipe needs to be longer and outlet needs to be lower than the inlet.

    Similar workings here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFRwSkDVH3A
    No messing around with pipes and tanks and levels,
    Just hang this lad from a sky-hook and turn it on.

    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/cRYAAOSwLVZVo~Un/s-l1600.jpg
    :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,828 ✭✭✭893bet


    One more year is all she needs to get through (same as last year)

    858-CF02-A-039-C-4078-B70-A-0-DE0-D978-DC01.jpgmythical creatures wallpaper


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,206 ✭✭✭Figerty


    893bet wrote: »
    One more year is all she needs to get through (same as last year)

    858-CF02-A-039-C-4078-B70-A-0-DE0-D978-DC01.jpgmythical creatures wallpaper

    Was doing the same thing this evening..not as creative as that though.
    Battery Imapact gun is a great job for quick change of tines.

    What was the lump hammer for......


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,828 ✭✭✭893bet


    Figerty wrote: »
    Was doing the same thing this evening..not as creative as that though.
    Battery Imapact gun is a great job for quick change of tines.

    What was the lump hammer for......

    For beating out the dowel pins for to change the springs


  • Registered Users Posts: 855 ✭✭✭Aravo


    893bet wrote: »
    For beating out the dowel pins for to change the springs

    A bit of a knack to changing the springs. Not the nicest job. I find the best thing is to park it up for the winter ready to go for the following year.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    Figerty wrote: »
    Was doing the same thing this evening..not as creative as that though.
    Battery Imapact gun is a great job for quick change of tines.

    What was the lump hammer for......

    Yea, even the cheap impact gun I have, stands out great with changeing tines in a hurry.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,828 ✭✭✭893bet


    Aravo wrote: »
    A bit of a knack to changing the springs. Not the nicest job. I find the best thing is to park it up for the winter ready to go for the following year.

    There def is. Even when you know how to to it.....12 months later the first one is always slow while you relearn the knack.

    It’s down at the local fab lad for some spot welding here and there. It’s been on it’s last legs for 3 years. It doesn’t even turn that well any more as the angles are all wrong on some of tines and its been repaired and welded so many times. But it just about does the job for what we need. Thought about replacing it with something last year. Hard to justify for 200 bales a year. Harder again this year with the way prices have gone on machinery.


  • Registered Users Posts: 855 ✭✭✭Aravo


    893bet wrote: »
    There def is. Even when you know how to to it.....12 months later the first one is always slow while you relearn the knack.

    It’s down at the local fab lad for some spot welding here and there. It’s been on it’s last legs for 3 years. It doesn’t even turn that well any more as the angles are all wrong on some of tines and its been repaired and welded so many times. But it just about does the job for what we need. Thought about replacing it with something last year. Hard to justify for 200 bales a year. Harder again this year with the way prices have gone on machinery.

    More power to ya. Its yours, do as you please. I do recall a thread last year, where some were totally against the poor haybob. Seemingly only a contractor with a 150+hp machine should be allowed into a field these days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭timple23


    893bet wrote: »
    One more year is all she needs to get through (same as last year)

    858-CF02-A-039-C-4078-B70-A-0-DE0-D978-DC01.jpgmythical creatures wallpaper

    Another trick I've seen with haybobs is to run a blue rope between the loops of the tines.

    If a tine falls off you'll hear it rattle and know to change it, plus there is no chance of it going up a baler.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    timple23 wrote: »
    Another trick I've seen with haybobs is to run a blue rope between the loops of the tines.

    If a tine falls off you'll hear it rattle and know to change it, plus there is no chance of it going up a baler.

    Probably a good idea alright, tho I've had the stem break from the top of the coil, wouldn't help the chopper unit, but better than coil and all going up alright.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,199 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Jb1989 wrote: »
    Probably a good idea alright, tho I've had the stem break from the top of the coil, wouldn't help the chopper unit, but better than coil and all going up alright.

    Agree some of them definitely break up past the spring part but you might catch some of them with the rope anyway


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,194 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    A cheapo little ratchet strap is handy to keep manners on an opened roll of sheep wire...

    1VP6Wnw.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,581 ✭✭✭White Clover


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    A cheapo little ratchet strap is handy to keep manners on an opened roll of sheep wire...

    1VP6Wnw.jpg

    What's the John Deere, Nek?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    A cheapo little ratchet strap is handy to keep manners on an opened roll of sheep wire...

    1VP6Wnw.jpg

    Never seen too many red ratchet straps like the one on the flatbed. Nice colour.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    A cheapo little ratchet strap is handy to keep manners on an opened roll of sheep wire...

    1VP6Wnw.jpg

    Find them useful for keeping tractor bonnets closed too.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,194 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    What's the John Deere, Nek?

    It's an early 3140, that dropped a valve and grenaded its engine.
    We've had it since 1986, when it was 3 years old.
    I have a combine engine sitting behind the trailer to go into it, whenever I get round to it.
    The red strap was bought in the local agristore/fuel merchant in Ballyconnell., Cassidays. Only €15, and a good lenght.
    The border actually runs through his yard, about 40 foot north of the diesel pumps.
    When the Gardai fill with diesel, they mostly stay in the South...
    :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,919 ✭✭✭selectamatic


    Is that an ih946 in the background too?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,206 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    A cheapo little ratchet strap is handy to keep manners on an opened roll of sheep wire...

    1VP6Wnw.jpg

    Are the brakes gone on the trailer....


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,130 ✭✭✭Grueller


    Figerty wrote: »
    Are the brakes gone on the trailer....

    I would do the same. The handbrake being on all the time causes the brakes to stick so I leave it off and put a chock at the wheel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 948 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    Could an old JF manure spreader be modified to spread lime I wonder?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,194 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Is that an ih946 in the background too?

    Noooo, Farmall 966!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,194 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Figerty wrote: »
    Are the brakes gone on the trailer....

    Yes, needs all new cables, and even before that, the linings fell off the shoes on one wheel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    It's an early 3140, that dropped a valve and grenaded its engine.
    I have a combine engine sitting behind the trailer to go into it, whenever I get round to it.
    :D
    Not a simple straight swap........................................


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,194 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Front pulley, water pump, sump, bell housing, clutch, side plates, exhaust manifold,
    be grand....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,206 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Yes, needs all new cables, and even before that, the linings fell off the shoes on one wheel.

    Must be some way you can fix that with a ratchet strap...


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