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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 956 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    emaherx wrote: »
    If you are using flickr there is a share button at the bottom of each of your photos, click on it then choose BBcode and select your image size. you can then copy and paste the code generated here and it will embed the images for you which is quite handy. I usually pick a size around 800x600.

    Cool thanks. Signed up today. Handy to know that now. Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 956 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    emaherx wrote: »
    I assume your spring is higher than your drinker?
    Dose the drinker have a ballcock or an overflow of some description? Will you be able to get water like this all summer long?

    Ya in that field I don't have an ibc tank, just the blue barrel for a reserves. Then attach straight to a black plastic drinker.. they drop between the drainage pipe and the drinker may be like 8 feet. But when blue barrel fills it can overflow but creates enough pressure for the fast fill drinker. Have found the drinkers knocked over when all cows there so ibc tank would sort that.
    Ya I've never not seen a dribble there. Last year I opened a drain trying to find the spring as pipe seemed not to be taking all the water, if I hadn't there would be greater flow. Will put stone and another drainage pipe in this summer now so will get a better flow. Can drivert the water from the open drain into that opening too. It's a few feet higher.


  • Registered Users Posts: 956 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    tellmeabit wrote: »
    So one field has this rought and ready effort.
    Evechute straight from dike into barrel, filtered with old satellite dish, and from there using garden hose stuck in at bottom of tank sealed with clay and moss. into icb tank. Then black pipe to the drinkers.

    https://flic.kr/p/2kXLjif

    Not sure how clean this is, have an old pair of tights in the lid the lid of the ibc tank im effort to filter, but only option for water in that field unless I let them in to dikes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,048 ✭✭✭emaherx


    tellmeabit wrote: »
    Ya in that field I don't have an ibc tank, just the blue barrel for a reserves. Then attach straight to a black plastic drinker.. they drop between the drainage pipe and the drinker may be like 8 feet. But when blue barrel fills it can overflow but creates enough pressure for the fast fill drinker. Have found the drinkers knocked over when all cows there so ibc tank would sort that.
    Ya I've never not seen a dribble there. Last year I opened a drain trying to find the spring as pipe seemed not to be taking all the water, if I hadn't there would be greater flow. Will put stone and another drainage pipe in this summer now so will get a better flow. Can drivert the water from the open drain into that opening too. It's a few feet higher.

    Cool, thanks for sharing. Great to be able take advantage of the natural resources.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    Would 2 sheets of 10 mm plate welded on top of each other have similar load bearing strength as a piece of 20mm thick plate? Have to cover about 20ft of a 2ft wide concrete channel so a artic milk tanker won't get front wheel stuck in the channel.
    The channel is on the roadside put in by the council , rounded and varies between 4 an 7 inches deep. Plenty strong concrete to bolt the plates to. Was looking for old trench crossing plates on DD to cut in half but not found anything.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,207 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    Would 2 sheets of 10 mm plate welded on top of each other have similar load bearing strength as a piece of 20mm thick plate? Have to cover about 20ft of a 2ft wide concrete channel so a artic milk tanker won't get front wheel stuck in the channel.
    The channel is on the roadside put in by the council , rounded and varies between 4 an 7 inches deep. Plenty strong concrete to bolt the plates to. Was looking for old trench crossing plates on DD to cut in half but not found anything.
    I wouldn't put anything on a public road as you could be liable in case of an accident. Phone your council and ask them to sort it out as it has now become a issue for your business.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,159 ✭✭✭DBK1


    Would 2 sheets of 10 mm plate welded on top of each other have similar load bearing strength as a piece of 20mm thick plate? Have to cover about 20ft of a 2ft wide concrete channel so a artic milk tanker won't get front wheel stuck in the channel.
    The channel is on the roadside put in by the council , rounded and varies between 4 an 7 inches deep. Plenty strong concrete to bolt the plates to. Was looking for old trench crossing plates on DD to cut in half but not found anything.
    To answer your question, no it wouldn't. The plates would only be able to be welded around the edges, they would not be physically joined anywhere else so they would still be able to flex independently to each other. How much lower the strength would be I don't know but it will definitely be lower.

    The correct way to go about it is as Base says, don't go near it yourself and get the council to do it. You can't even fill a pothole on the road without you then being responsible for anyone who may take a skid there so laying steel on the side of the road, which will get very slippy when wet, would be asking for trouble.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,123 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    Base price wrote: »
    I wouldn't put anything on a public road as you could be liable in case of an accident. Phone your council and ask them to sort it out as it has now become a issue for your business.

    And the council will tell you its your business.are we to take it that the wheel swings into the drain when entering or leaving the yard.if so youshould improve the entrance but that maybe difficult


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,819 ✭✭✭Odelay


    K.G. wrote: »
    And the council will tell you its your business.are we to take it that the wheel swings into the drain when entering or leaving the yard.if so youshould improve the entrance but that maybe difficult

    The council will not tell you road repairs and modifications are your business.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    K.G. wrote: »
    And the council will tell you its your business.are we to take it that the wheel swings into the drain when entering or leaving the yard.if so youshould improve the entrance but that maybe difficult

    As it stands the milk tanker reverses at an angle of the public road (12-14 ft wide) up to the door of the dairy. The tractor unit blocks the public road when filling. Busy road at schooltimes in the mornings. Eir have moved a pole and the farmer has knocked 25ft of ditch just inside the concrete water channel. He has put down a slab of concrete so that the tractor unit can be largely off the road while filling. The water channel has relatively steep sides so if the RH front wheel rolls into it it may refuse to ride out when moving off.

    Hence the need to cover the channel.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,663 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    K.G. wrote: »
    And the council will tell you its your business.are we to take it that the wheel swings into the drain when entering or leaving the yard.if so youshould improve the entrance but that maybe difficult
    The Council put the channel in, so it's their business.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,123 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    The Council put the channel in, so it's their business.

    Yes thst is true but the farmer is carrying out alterations to his entrance so the farmer is responsible for any alerations made to drainage .what will happen if he rings the council is they will come out and say this this and that has to be done to what ever specification and will inspect after.worse case they might decide the entrance is dangerous and say it has to go some where else so thread carefully.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,611 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    As it stands the milk tanker reverses at an angle of the public road (12-14 ft wide) up to the door of the dairy. The tractor unit blocks the public road when filling. Busy road at schooltimes in the mornings. Eir have moved a pole and the farmer has knocked 25ft of ditch just inside the concrete water channel. He has put down a slab of concrete so that the tractor unit can be largely off the road while filling. The water channel has relatively steep sides so if the RH front wheel rolls into it it may refuse to ride out when moving off.

    Hence the need to cover the channel.

    Could he put a slat, or part of, over it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 861 ✭✭✭Aravo


    https://imgur.com/a/dlTonuK
    Upgraded some sheep penning in a field to make things a bit easier, hopefully the photos have uploaded


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,193 ✭✭✭Good loser


    Could a steel pipe large diameter be put in the drain and top up with gravel?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,168 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Aravo wrote: »
    https://imgur.com/a/dlTonuK
    Upgraded some sheep penning in a field to make things a bit easier, hopefully the photos have uploaded

    Looks like a nice well sheltered field there for stock.


  • Registered Users Posts: 790 ✭✭✭richie123


    553499.jpg
    Made up this clamp for the slurry pipe.
    Cut off the original handle at the top..it always seems to get caught in the jaws
    Easier lift pipe now too


  • Registered Users Posts: 861 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Looks like a nice well sheltered field there for stock.

    Good shelter alright. Actually 2 fields there. Same penning will do the 2 fields. Had the posts lying about, basically each post is a very heavy duty strainer, not treated but will do better than the loads of small sheep gates scenario which occurred previously. Total cost was the price of 3 gates, had one 12ft gate lying about, put mesh on it.
    Welded up the hanging irons with some threaded bar.
    Must admit it's satisfying to see a nice job (my opinion) when complete.

    Patent pending.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,399 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    richie123 wrote: »
    Made up this clamp for the slurry pipe.
    Cut off the original handle at the top..it always seems to get caught in the jaws
    Easier lift pipe now too

    I like it


  • Registered Users Posts: 790 ✭✭✭richie123


    Reggie. wrote: »
    I like it

    I also changed all the lever valves on the tank itself to the side so ur pulling sideways ...
    Can't understand manufacturers putting them straight up and down.it much harder open a valve straight up especially when they're stuck


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,229 ✭✭✭vincenzolorenzo


    richie123 wrote: »
    I also changed all the lever valves on the tank itself to the side so ur pulling sideways ...
    Can't understand manufacturers putting them straight up and down.it much harder open a valve straight up especially when they're stuck

    I'd say its done that way so they have no tendency to open when they shouldn't. But agree, they can be very awkward the way they are


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,057 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    Thought I was going have to buy a new drill and then I found this ground that makes new batteries for discontinued models.
    Got a new battery for my old Dewalt

    https://dasbatteries.com/en/


  • Registered Users Posts: 215 ✭✭2018na


    Thought I was going have to buy a new drill and then I found this ground that makes new batteries for discontinued models.
    Got a new battery for my old Dewalt

    https://dasbatteries.com/en/
    I have almost every dewalt 18v tool on
    The old battery system if any one was looking to make a huge set with these batteries


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,528 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    Was getting fed up of rooting through the jeep looking for dosing and bits so threw this together yesterday in half an hour, farm is very scattered so like to have all the stuff with me. Should keep it a lot tidier anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,057 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    2018na wrote: »
    I have almost every dewalt 18v tool on
    The old battery system if any one was looking to make a huge set with these batteries

    Are you looking to sell?


  • Registered Users Posts: 215 ✭✭2018na


    Are you looking to sell?

    Yes I think I will but I might try selling everything together


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,272 ✭✭✭Suckler


    2018na wrote: »
    Yes I think I will but I might try selling everything together

    You can get these adaptors for the new type batteries. Worth it surely?

    https://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=dewalt+adapter&_sacat=0


  • Registered Users Posts: 215 ✭✭2018na


    Suckler wrote: »
    You can get these adaptors for the new type batteries. Worth it surely?

    https://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=dewalt+adapter&_sacat=0

    I tried that adapter but it was not a great success for me. Think it was not suitable for the skilsaw and I quickly gave up on it Have completely changed to the new battery system now and also have a lot of 54v stuff. I will put a picture up on dungdeal in the next day or so


  • Registered Users Posts: 790 ✭✭✭richie123


    I'd say its done that way so they have no tendency to open when they shouldn't. But agree, they can be very awkward the way they are

    Hmm got my last tank were sideways fitted and never opened tho I can see how it would happen


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,738 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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