Labour Saving and General Guntering

Limestone Cowboy

SuperTortoise wrote: »

How did the welder work out, did you get it solved?

I sent it backs few days ago, don't know whether it's going to be repaired or replaced yet. I'm fair annoyed over it, had put off buying 1 for a long time and only gave in because I had a good few bits to do with it.

Say my name

Tardiness is the mother of invention.

Hadn't a pen set up and three calves in an open shed hardy enough to go on a feeder. Then you look around to see where you can hang a feeder.



Perfect height and back of the rim made for the catches.

Rooting.

Kevhog1988

Say my name wrote: »

Tardiness is the mother of invention.

Hadn't a pen set up and three calves in an open shed hardy enough to go on a feeder. Then you look around to see where you can hang a feeder.



Perfect height and back of the rim made for the catches.

Rooting.

Whats the van? Like a bedford rascal?. Handy yoke!!

Say my name

Kevhog1988 wrote: »

Whats the van? Like a bedford rascal?. Handy yoke!!

It's a Suzuki Carry. I think they're the exact same?
It was Suzuki in Japan and Bedford in Britain.

Handy alright but I should be using it more. It's there when I want it.
Saying that it's being used atm as a portable office in the calf shed. :pac:

NcdJd

A thought came into my head there re my cement mixer.. i could also use it for mixing seed of different varieties to get a good overall mix. I've a couple of different native grass species ordered and a bit of herb mix for a trial plot I'm experimenting with this summer.

A eureka moment while looking at SMN's Suzuki calves

Thank you SMN, you've helped me indirectly solve a conundrum that was rattling around in my head for the last few days.

Say my name

NcdJd wrote: »

A thought came into my head there re my cement mixer.. i could also use it for mixing seed of different varieties to get a good overall mix. I've a couple of different native grass species ordered and a bit of herb mix for a trial plot I'm experimenting with this summer.

A eureka moment while looking at SMN's Suzuki calves

Thank you SMN, you've helped me indirectly solve a conundrum that was rattling around in my head for the last few days.

I've never heard a Suzuki Carry compared to a cement mixer before. But your welcome Ncdjd.

(I think that's how the seed companies mix seed anyway.)
And possibly how the seed coatings go on.

renandstimpy

tractorporn wrote: »

Great work. Did you have the welder turned right down? I assumed the welder would burn through that stuff and a soldering iron would be better?

Thanks ,I have an inverter arc welder and it was turned down to the last .
But every time she wood arc she would melt through it.
In the end what i did was held another rod in my other hand and used that to take the belt of the rod in the hand holder( dont know the name for it ) and
melted that over the joint at a higher temp and it sort of worked .
My brother in law has a mig welder and will be getting a call next time .
I wonder would it weld it better ?

Nekarsulm

renandstimpy wrote: »

Thanks ,I have an inverter arc welder and it was turned down to the last .
But every time she wood arc she would melt through it.
In the end what i did was held another rod in my other hand and used that to take the belt of the rod in the hand holder( dont know the name for it ) and
melted that over the joint at a higher temp and it sort of worked .
My brother in law has a mig welder and will be getting a call next time .
I wonder would it weld it better ?

The galvanise finish makes it a pisser to weld at the best of times.
And very poisonous fumes as will.
It'd need to be ground back to bare metal at the weld points, but MIG would be ideal for that thickness of metal.
I bought a Mig last year, and can't master it at all ....

renandstimpy

Nekarsulm wrote: »

The galvanise finish makes it a pisser to weld at the best of times.
And very poisonous fumes as will.
It'd need to be ground back to bare metal at the weld points, but MIG would be ideal for that thickness of metal.
I bought a Mig last year, and can't master it at all ....

Ya I got a sickening years ago from welding galvanised tube and never again . I drank 2 pints of milk on the advice of a plumber and it seem to sort me out .
I always clean back if possible and weld galvanised in as ventilated an area as possible .
Something I have in the pipeline , kinda the case that I cant justify it and then when I get it will probably wonder how i managed without it .
What sort of cost would you be looking at for one ?

Nekarsulm

I give €400 for it, bought from a garage that was buying a bigger one.
Came with two spools of wire and a half dozen new tips.
Torch lead is brand new.
Had to buy the bottle of gas afterwards.

jd06

Nekarsulm wrote: »

I give €400 for it, bought from a garage that was buying a bigger one.
Came with two spools of wire and a half dozen new tips.
Torch lead is brand new.
Had to buy the bottle of gas afterwards.

What amps is it

Omallep2

NcdJd wrote: »

A thought came into my head there re my cement mixer.. i could also use it for mixing seed of different varieties to get a good overall mix. I've a couple of different native grass species ordered and a bit of herb mix for a trial plot I'm experimenting with this summer.

A eureka moment while looking at SMN's Suzuki calves

Thank you SMN, you've helped me indirectly solve a conundrum that was rattling around in my head for the last few days.

Did the seed not get mixed enough when rattling around in your head

SuperTortoise

Nekarsulm wrote: »

The galvanise finish makes it a pisser to weld at the best of times.
And very poisonous fumes as will.
It'd need to be ground back to bare metal at the weld points, but MIG would be ideal for that thickness of metal.
I bought a Mig last year, and can't master it at all ....

What problems are you having with the MIG welder?

is it a 3 phase or single?

dzer2

Nekarsulm wrote: »

The galvanise finish makes it a pisser to weld at the best of times.
And very poisonous fumes as will.
It'd need to be ground back to bare metal at the weld points, but MIG would be ideal for that thickness of metal.
I bought a Mig last year, and can't master it at all ....

Can you stick weld

If so mig is the opposite of it
Do a small circular movement away from the bead and then back on to the bead iykwim. If you are right handed work from right to left

Nekarsulm

It's a SIP Autoplus 211DP. Single Phase.
I struggle to get my head around the wire feed rates and the power settings.
Either laying down pigeon-**** deposits with poor penetration, or blowing holes.

Nekarsulm

Nekarsulm wrote: »

It's a SIP Autoplus 211DP. Single Phase.
I struggle to get my head around the wire feed rates and the power settings.
Either laying down pigeon-**** deposits with poor penetration, or blowing holes.

Is the wire rusty...this gave huge issues with spitting for me in past

Generally speaking,the power/wire settings should be self-explaitory as you'll see the wire melt too fast/slow etc

Could be low gas pressure??or a kinked/damage feed to the head...they are hard to get used too,but once ya do,a pleasure to use

SuperTortoise

95% of being able to MIG weld is being able to set the welder, the rest is piss easy.

Remember that how "hot" your welding is determined by amps, your wire feed rate controls amps, and therefore how hot the weld is.
Voltage controls weld bead profile. (mostly)

Firstly set your amps on the welder according to the thickness of steel you will be welding, e.g. 3mm@ 110amps, 5mm@170amps, 10mm@200+amps etc.(rough guide for mild steel)
Next set your voltage to match your already selected wire feed speed, you can do this by welding and adjusting the voltage up/down at the same time until you get a nice sizzle sound coming from the torch.
Voltage set to low and the weld bead will look humped up in the middle like a snot, voltage too high and you'll have excess penetration in parent material, and fine tune both settings from there.

There's a whole plethora of other things that make a difference to MIG welding such as wire stick out effecting voltage and so on that i did'nt mention but don't worry too much about all that.
After a while you'll be able to set the welder from memory, same as most things really, just a bit of practice.

Jb1989

SuperTortoise wrote: »

95% of being able to MIG weld is being able to set the welder, the rest is piss easy.

Remember that how "hot" your welding is determined by amps, your wire feed rate controls amps, and therefore how hot the weld is.
Voltage controls weld bead profile. (mostly)

Firstly set your amps on the welder according to the thickness of steel you will be welding, e.g. 3mm@ 110amps, 5mm@170amps, 10mm@200+amps etc.(rough guide for mild steel)
Next set your voltage to match your already selected wire feed speed, you can do this by welding and adjusting the voltage up/down at the same time until you get a nice sizzle sound coming from the torch.
Voltage set to low and the weld bead will look humped up in the middle like a snot, voltage too high and you'll have excess penetration in parent material, and fine tune both settings from there.

There's a whole plethora of other things that make a difference to MIG welding such as wire stick out effecting voltage and so on that i did'nt mention but don't worry too much about all that.
After a while you'll be able to set the welder from memory, same as most things really, just a bit of practice.

And lower wire speed deeper burn
Faster wire speed lighter burn

foxy farmer

renandstimpy wrote: »

Thanks ,I have an inverter arc welder and it was turned down to the last .
But every time she wood arc she would melt through it.
In the end what i did was held another rod in my other hand and used that to take the belt of the rod in the hand holder( dont know the name for it ) and
melted that over the joint at a higher temp and it sort of worked .
My brother in law has a mig welder and will be getting a call next time .
I wonder would it weld it better ?

What you were doing is known as Texas tig welding.
Never tried it but watched a demo on You tube.
I tried welding a few old Fisher drinking bowls with 1.5 mm rods on an inverter welder but it was a pure 5hitshow. I blamed the galvanizing.

Micheal H

Nekarsulm wrote: »

It's a SIP Autoplus 211DP. Single Phase.
I struggle to get my head around the wire feed rates and the power settings.
Either laying down pigeon-**** deposits with poor penetration, or blowing holes.

When you open the door of the wire feed compartment is there is a chart on the inside of the door at all? It would be fairly common for most manufacturers to have recommended settings for various thicknesses of steel.

If not then SuperTortoise above gave some good advice on the general settings for the MIG, after that it's a bit of fine tuning and practice.

Get a few pieces of scrap plate, get it nice and clean and just weld beads from one end to the other. If something needs adjusting, just change one setting at a time and then run another bead along the previous one and see what effect it has. It might be better, it might be worse, but you'll get to know what effect each setting has on the bead.

There's plenty of good YouTube channels for welding that has great tips to get you going. Welding Tips and Tricks being one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KrwmK7df-s

renandstimpy

What is yere opinion of gasless mig welders ?
Are they worth the bother ?
They seen cheap and use flux wire .

_Brian

renandstimpy wrote: »

What is yere opinion of gasless mig welders ?
Are they worth the bother ?
They seen cheap and use flux wire .

They are “grand” providing the joints are immaculate clean steel and tight fitting. Now I know that’s the way welding should be but honestly for bits round them far I’d say it’s useless.

It’s interesting. Brother is a fabricator by trade. The amount of time spent on preparation for a weld by professionals is amazing. No wonder they weld so tidy because they eliminate all problems in advance. He’d be four times longer hanging a gate in a shed compared to myself, they’d both stay up, I just wouldn’t want anyone looking at what I’d done.

He’s fully coded and all, welds X-rays on most jobs and never failed one.

selectamatic

renandstimpy wrote: »

What is yere opinion of gasless mig welders ?
Are they worth the bother ?
They seen cheap and use flux wire .

They're no good for thin stuff supposedly. Blow clean through more often then not. Temp regulation is too erratic.

Nekarsulm

Found this on the phone from last year.
Somehow the Fiat link end went missing, and despite tramping all around where I'd been using it, never found it.
Fiat wanted over €200 plus VAT. for this piece.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Found this on the phone from last year.
Somehow the Fiat link end went missing, and despite tramping all around where I'd been using it, never found it.
Fiat wanted over €200 plus VAT. for this piece.

Try buying electronic parts

Figerty

selectamatic wrote: »

They're no good for thin stuff supposedly. Blow clean through more often then not. Temp regulation is too erratic.

I have an aldi one. It's ok, but not as controlable as as gas MIG welder. Handy for patch work. Quality MIG wire helps.

Kevhog1988

Figerty wrote: »

I have an aldi one. It's ok, but not as controlable as as gas MIG welder. Handy for patch work. Quality MIG wire helps.

Easier to weld with than an arc welder?

Figerty

Kevhog1988 wrote: »

Easier to weld with than an arc welder?

Yes,, but takes time to get the settings right. Be under no illusion.. you pay for what you get, but you can weld thiner materials with these cheap welders 1mm steel is manageable. Hard to do with a stick welder.
I'll buy a decent MIG welder when I have the need. But for now this thing will do.

It'sabout the preparation in welding so the welder is a part of that.

patsy_mccabe

Putting up 2 shed uprights at the moment. I had one up today but its slightly off vertical. Has anyone here ever put one up and if so, how did you get it right?
I put some shims (tin strips) in under the base plate, but it was still hard to get right. I've 4 bolts set already in the concrete.
I want to put them up and concrete them in before going any further.

wrangler

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Putting up 2 shed uprights at the moment. I had one up today but its slightly off vertical. Has anyone here ever put one up and if so, how did you get it right?
I put some shims (tin strips) in under the base plate, but it was still hard to get right.
I want to put them up and concrete them in before going any further.

I've seen erectors prise them to the trusses with a screwdriver or bar and clamp them with a vice gripes while putting in a bolt, some uprights move a lot