Labour Saving and General Guntering

raypallas

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

For anyone thinking of making an air operated drafting gate, you can use an air operated switch to open the valve that works the gate, so no electrics used at all. You can also get a sound muffler to minimise the sound from the air leaving the cylinder.

Air/Pilot Valve to operate the cylinder;
https://www.flomax.ie/Catalogue/PNEUMATIC-EQUIPMENT/Solenoid-Air-Operated-Pneumatic-Valves/AirPilot-Operated-Valves/52-PilotSpring-Valve---G12-Ports

Push/Pull valve the operator pushes to work the gate
https://www.flomax.ie/Catalogue/PNEUMATIC-EQUIPMENT/Mechanically-Operated-Pneumatic-Valves/Push-Pull-Valves/32-PushPull-Valve---G18-Ports

Mufflers;
https://www.flomax.ie/Catalogue/Fittings-Couplings-Adaptors/Hose-Fittings-Threaded-Adaptors/Silencers-Mufflers

Any idea what sort of money it would cost to get a kit?

SuperTortoise

Problem: i'd like to have a 3rd function on a front linkage, currently 2 spool valves piped, 1 flow 1 return, if i'm using a hydraulic top link i have no spool valves left to operate a 3rd function, what are my options?

The joystick has a 3rd function button on it, the wire coming from the joystick terminates short of the valve chest feeding the front linkage, can i T off of existing lines, and if so where? i'd like to put a small ram on things like bucket or bale carrier to trip them. Thanks.

stock>

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Problem: i'd like to have a 3rd function on a front linkage, currently 2 spool valves piped, 1 flow 1 return, if i'm using a hydraulic top link i have no spool valves left to operate a 3rd function, what are my options?

The joystick has a 3rd function button on it, the wire coming from the joystick terminates short of the valve chest feeding the front linkage, can i T off of existing lines, and if so where? i'd like to put a small ram on things like bucket or bale carrier to trip them. Thanks.

https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydraulic-valves/diverter-valves


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Cavanjack

Kevhog1988 wrote: »

Where are you?. Havent seen concrete that cheap since the last recession!!

Cavan. Got 37n for €69 a meter last week.

lakill Farm

Cavanjack wrote: »

Cavan. Got 37n for €69 a meter last week.

plus vat or including vat?

Floods?

kollegeknight

Does anyone have any sketches/ link to or sizes for a creep feeder for weanling calves. I’ve looked online but wanting to see what works for some people.

Thanks in advance

keepalive213

Not me btw i wouldn't have the patience

patsy_mccabe

kollegeknight wrote: »

Does anyone have any sketches/ link to or sizes for a creep feeder for weanling calves. I’ve looked online but wanting to see what works for some people.

Thanks in advance

Would a creep gate work for you? I have a Gibney field creep gate here and it works well.

SuperTortoise

kollegeknight wrote: »

Does anyone have any sketches/ link to or sizes for a creep feeder for weanling calves. I’ve looked online but wanting to see what works for some people.

Thanks in advance

I made one last year, I'll post up the sizes and cut length when I get a chance.

kollegeknight

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Would a creep gate work for you? I have a Gibney field creep gate here and it works well.

It wouldn’t, I want to put up in the bog.

I’ve an old cow box that’s out of use I was thinking of converting.

For the next couple of years, the max calves I’ll have 12.

emaherx

Poly tunnel nearly done, just need some plants now.

IMG_20200726_174915 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20200726_174827 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20200726_174813 by Emaherx, on Flickr

Westernrock

I’m thinking of making a weight like the one in the picture. I think Patsy has posted one similar here but I can’t seem to find it. Just wondering if there’s anything I need to watch out for or any tips? Thanks

vincenzolorenzo

The strip of angle holding the 9 hole bar in looks a bit short IMO. Think you'd want something a bit longer

mayota

What is the channel iron on the front for?

patsy_mccabe

Westernrock wrote: »

I’m thinking of making a weight like the one in the picture. I think Patsy has posted one similar here but I can’t seem to find it. Just wondering if there’s anything I need to watch out for or any tips? Thanks

Here are pics of it. Remember it is a counter weight, so no harm have it back a bit from the back axle. This will allow it to swing in too against the drawbar. Put something too on top, like a gate iron hanger so you hang lift it if it falls over. Make it good and strong so it wont rust away. Plenty of rebar too in the concrete. Allow at least 2 weeks for concrete to cure.
This one was made over 20 years ago.

Donald Trump

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Here are pics of it. Remember it is a counter weight, so no harm have it back a bit from the back axle. This will allow it to swing in too against the drawbar. Put something too on top, like a gate iron hanger so you hang lift it if it falls over. Make it good and strong so it wont rust away. Plenty of rebar too in the concrete. Allow at least 2 weeks for concrete to cure.
This one was made over 20 years ago.

It wouldn't be much more effort to have a proper three-point linkage set up on it. Less handy for taking on and off but I wouldn't think that would be significant. Proper three-point linkage and it can't swing around either.

patsy_mccabe

Do you mean an A Frame type. Well I can drop and pick it up without getting off tractor.

Donald Trump

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Do you mean an A Frame type. Well I can drop and pick it up without getting off tractor.

Yeah. The way you have it is grand and handy for taking it on and off. a toplink would prevent any swinging in either direction. but maybe it's not an issue.


The main worry I'd have with that setup you have might be if you were driving along a track or something and it hit a bump got lifted off the arms. Might not be likely though and I suppose that a deep "latch" would stop that anyway. If I was putting a bracket for a toplink, I'd have pins for the arms. I know they have new ones now that just sit on the arms, but they tend to be flat. The barrels ones could "fall over" if it came off mid-transit .... but you have the hook on the top for righting them.

emaherx

Donald Trump wrote: »

Yeah. The way you have it is grand and handy for taking it on and off. a toplink would prevent any swinging in either direction. but maybe it's not an issue.


The main worry I'd have with that setup you have might be if you were driving along a track or something and it hit a bump got lifted off the arms. Might not be likely though and I suppose that a deep "latch" would stop that anyway.

The drawbar acts as the 3rd point so it won't swing.

Donald Trump

emaherx wrote: »

The drawbar acts as the 3rd point so it won't swing.

But it could swing the other way. The weight of it might prevent that normally but suppose, as I said, you are driving down tracks in a field and the wheel goes into a deep spot, or else there is a hump in the middle and the bottom of the weight hits the ground and you don't notice. It's going to tip forward into the back of the tractor.

patsy_mccabe

They were old pics. I've since added a plate to the lower part. It never came off the tractor with me. I use it loading dung etc and could drop and pick it up 30 times a day.
Not meant for speeding on a bumpy road that's for sure, but around a yard, it doesn't budge.

Westernrock

Donald Trump wrote: »

But it could swing the other way. The weight of it might prevent that normally but suppose, as I said, you are driving down tracks in a field and the wheel goes into a deep spot, or else there is a hump in the middle and the bottom of the weight hits the ground and you don't notice. It's going to tip forward into the back of the tractor.

It will be for yard work mostly and want to be able to pick it up quickly and easily. It would be easier to make one with three point linkage alright, just take an old bale spike or spinner frame and concrete it into the barrel.

Westernrock

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

They were old pics. I've since added a plate to the lower part. It never came off the tractor with me. I use it loading dung etc and could drop and pick it up 30 times a day.
Not meant for speeding on a bumpy road, that's for sure but around a yard, it doesn't budge.

That’s exactly what I want it for, so I can drop of the dung spreader and pick up the weight to fill it with front loader and vice versa

patsy_mccabe

Westernrock wrote: »

That’s exactly what I want it for, so I can drop of the dung spreader and pick up the weight to fill it with front loader and vice versa

You can leave on the nine hole bar while spreading, but you need to be damn sure the arms are locked up. Drop the arms on the PTO shaft and you're in trouble.

Markcheese

emaherx wrote: »

Poly tunnel nearly done, just need some plants now.

IMG_20200726_174915 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20200726_174827 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20200726_174813 by Emaherx, on Flickr

Nifty ... What's the black on the inside of the hoops ? ( Looks like pipe insulation )
If you can pick up a few paving slabs for a path up the middle (and the entrance) it keeps your feet from getting muddy ,and is easy to push a wheelbarrow along ..

emaherx

Markcheese wrote: »

Nifty ... What's the black on the inside of the hoops ? ( Looks like pipe insulation )
If you can pick up a few paving slabs for a path up the middle (and the entrance) it keeps your feet from getting muddy ,and is easy to push a wheelbarrow along ..

The black is the hoops, they are made from a roll of heavy poly pipe that was lying around. The poly pipe is slipped over some old scaffold tubes.

Markcheese

emaherx wrote: »

The black is the hoops, they are made from a roll of heavy poly pipe that was lying around. The poly pipe is slipped over some old scaffold tubes.

Nice one ..

zfml

emaherx wrote: »

The black is the hoops, they are made from a roll of heavy poly pipe that was lying around. The poly pipe is slipped over some old scaffold tubes.

Nice job. The scaffold tubes hammered into the ground a few feet?

wrangler

zfml wrote: »

Nice job. The scaffold tubes hammered into the ground a few feet?

Most tunnels would have a lump of concrete around the tubes in the ground

emaherx

zfml wrote: »

Nice job. The scaffold tubes hammered into the ground a few feet?

Dug holes and set in concrete.

Here's the whole album of the build.
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmNsqRUU