Labour Saving and General Guntering

SuperTortoise

kowtow wrote: »

Any bright ideas?

If it were my machine i'd bevel the edge all the way in to the inside of the beam shoot for ~35 degrees give or take, wipe all grease/oil/paint from surfaces, if it's to be stick welded use a fast freeze rod for the first pass something like a 7010 or 8010 rod as they're good for putting in a root with an uneven opening, fill and cover pass with 7018/8018 rod.

It can be MIG welded using a similar prep to above but it won't be as strong as a stick weld.

No reason why it can't be left good as new, i've no real idea what price you'd pay for a boom but i'd bet it will be multiples of what you'd pay to get it welded.

Never seen one to calf in that spot, i've seen loads that would rip clean off just behind where the hitch joins the lower boom though.

patsy_mccabe

Fatigue failure. The crack started out as a small microscopic crack and slowly opened like a tear in a sheet of paper.

larthehar

SuperTortoise wrote: »

If it were my machine i'd bevel the edge all the way in to the inside of the beam shoot for ~35 degrees give or take, wipe all grease/oil/paint from surfaces, if it's to be stick welded use a fast freeze rod for the first pass something like a 7010 or 8010 rod as they're good for putting in a root with an uneven opening, fill and cover pass with 7018/8018 rod.

It can be MIG welded using a similar prep to above but it won't be as strong as a stick weld.

No reason why it can't be left good as new, i've no real idea what price you'd pay for a boom but i'd bet it will be multiples of what you'd pay to get it welded.

Never seen one to calf in that spot, i've seen loads that would rip clean off just behind where the hitch joins the lower boom though.

I agree.. get it welded.. no need to take off the boom either.. a competent welder will weld in situ.. don't dream of a new boom unless you have $$$ to burn!

kowtow

larthehar wrote: »

I agree.. get it welded.. no need to take off the boom either.. a competent welder will weld in situ.. don't dream of a new boom unless you have $$$ to burn!

Would much prefer to weld it if possible. There is a bit more access to the break than might appear as the tear is in a section of channel so may be able to reach inside as well. Will leave the dipper in place and ask around for a good mobile welding outfit... any suggestions around Cork welcome.

All the pins and bushes were done in that arm last year so would much prefer to keep the matching pieces however tired they are!

SuperTortoise

Would'nt mind seeing an after picture or two if you decide to go down the welding route, good luck.

lakill Farm

kowtow wrote: »

It's a takeuchi 125.. just under 3 tonnes.

Any guesses as to what a new dipper would cost?

well a final drive for my 3t Kubota cost me €1600 .

lad in galway breaks diggers

lakill Farm

kowtow wrote: »

Would much prefer to weld it if possible. There is a bit more access to the break than might appear as the tear is in a section of channel so may be able to reach inside as well. Will leave the dipper in place and ask around for a good mobile welding outfit... any suggestions around Cork welcome.

All the pins and bushes were done in that arm last year so would much prefer to keep the matching pieces however tired they are!

I know a lad down around beara in cork. he does a lot of boats and marine welding

kowtow

lakill Farm wrote: »

well a final drive for my 3t Kubota cost me €1600 .

lad in galway breaks diggers

Yeh.. I paid 1800 I think for a final drive for that one.

I suppose if we did go down the replacement dipper route we'd have to have it bushed out to match the (already bushed out) top boom?

Must do the track adjusters as well while i think of it.

If your guy in Beara comes up as far as Kinsale by all means PM me his number... have one or two other feelers out as well locally so hopefully will find someone soon enough.

stock>

There is a nice bit of work in getting that back right. I appears it has thorn away from around the pivot outer bush.


To do that right it will need to be taken off and MIG welding would be fine, that what welded it originally.

lakill Farm

kowtow wrote: »

Yeh.. I paid 1800 I think for a final drive for that one.

I suppose if we did go down the replacement dipper route we'd have to have it bushed out to match the (already bushed out) top boom?

Must do the track adjusters as well while i think of it.

If your guy in Beara comes up as far as Kinsale by all means PM me his number... have one or two other feelers out as well locally so hopefully will find someone soon enough.

let me know and ill ask him. no idea what his welding is like

kowtow

stock> wrote: »

There is a nice bit of work in getting that back right. I appears it has thorn away from around the pivot outer bush.
.....

To do that right it will need to be taken off and MIG welding would be fine, that what welded it originally.

slightly better look at it here:



Will bring it up to the shed and then decide whether it needs to come off or not. Seems to be plenty of access for welding.

Have a good inverter MIG here but not sure it would be powerful enough, same could be said for my welding skills...

patsy_mccabe

Did it go suddenly it was it cracked all along?

Reggie.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Did it go suddenly it was it cracked all along?

The bottom of the cracks look well rusted so I'd say the start of the cracks were there a while

blue5000

I'm going to suggest something different to welding the cracks. It will be a bigger job though. Cut off the plates altogether and get a new pair of plates cut out and re-use the bushings.
Here's why,
there has been some dodgy plate steel coming from the far East, I reckon this is some of it, lads working with it every day can see it when they are cutting it, it just varies in strength too much.

SuperTortoise

blue5000 wrote: »

I'm going to suggest something different to welding the cracks. It will be a bigger job though. Cut off the plates altogether and get a new pair of plates cut out and re-use the bushings.
Here's why,
there has been some dodgy plate steel coming from the far East, I reckon this is some of it, lads working with it every day can see it when they are cutting it, it just varies in strength too much.

When i'm welding i can tell the quality of the steel, have been on jobs where price was the be all and end all and you could see that in the quality of the steel, was like welding plasticine in places!

I had a look at a 5 ton version today, is it cracked on a weld? or did it sheer through the middle of the plate?

patsy_mccabe

I used to get scrap steel from the company I worked for. Very handy around the farm. Got some once that was part of a holding brace for a machined part from India. Tried to weld it at home. Complete crap.

kowtow

SuperTortoise wrote: »

When i'm welding i can tell the quality of the steel, have been on jobs where price was the be all and end all and you could see that in the quality of the steel, was like welding plasticine in places!

I had a look at a 5 ton version today, is it cracked on a weld? or did it sheer through the middle of the plate?

It sheared through the plate, although the last part of the crack is on the weld. Difficult to say how it went actually as it just peeled away as I was coming down off the pile, it wasn't under any particular stress (at the time)

There has certainly been no sign of a crack from the outside, was greasing the top up there only a day or two ago and looked at the whole arm - also as I said it was all rebushed last year - but it was a fairly shook machine when I bought it so I knew it wouldn't be free of issues like this.

Also it is fairly heavily (re) painted so you can't always be too certain.

The Takeuchi is a good machine, quite fast and a good digging reach although personally I miss the steel tracks I used to have on my (very) old Komatsu.

If that one hadn't already been sitting here on hire I probably would have bought a 5 or an 8 tonne but having said that it's handy enough for most things if you are prepared to take that little bit longer over it and it's great in tight sheds. It gets used one way or another almost every day - including in the feed passage in the winter months.

Interesting idea about the steel...

Kevhog1988

kowtow wrote: »

visatorro wrote:

What machine is it? It's gonna have to be taken off to weld anyway so ring around dealers and breakers, you'd be surprised there might be a boom of a yoke that got cab damage and was written off.

It's a takeuchi 125.. just under 3 tonnes.

Any guesses as to what a new dipper would cost?

I can have a look here in the uk for you?? We run all takeuchis also...  Id say the 1.5 tonne takeeuchi is safely the best in its range. They take some hammering on the roads here and never an issue.

Dupont

Try Alan Milne in newry. He's main dealer for them and I think I seen a couple in for breaking when I was last there

Muckit

A little bit of guntering here this morning. And not an angle grinder or welder required.... although the reason for the guntering does revolve around the need to weld!

I don't weld that often, but l did buy an auto darkening helmet some years ago. I think they are a great job for amateurs like me, but only when they are working!

It usually comes to life after a few hours in sun, so when it didn't l went googling and found out the source of the problem and a very helpful video on YouTube (isn't the internet great?!)

After spending a grand total of €3.98, 4 AAA batteries and a half hour tinkering, we are back in business!

So l basically l took the unit apart, removed the dead 3V lithium battery cells and soldered in battery holders to circuitboard. I hot glued the holders over the lenses in the mask. Now next time the batteries go, they are easily replaced!

lakill Farm

whats the best paint to paint a bucket with for a front loader. Without having to undercoat it.

Hammerite?

Nekarsulm

Lowe Rust.

http://www.woodies.ie/lowe-rust-primer-375g-brick-red-625016?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9r7JBRCj37PlltTskaMBEiQAKTzTfK_Qk29MP-weBNZGH9wapc33Ld7CPEOTJPWGgh4CYYwaAuDB8P8HAQ

lakill Farm

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Lowe Rust.

http://www.woodies.ie/lowe-rust-primer-375g-brick-red-625016?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9r7JBRCj37PlltTskaMBEiQAKTzTfK_Qk29MP-weBNZGH9wapc33Ld7CPEOTJPWGgh4CYYwaAuDB8P8HAQ

I was hoping to skip the primer route but maybe that's the way to go.

Primer and top coat?

MickeyShtyles

lakill Farm wrote: »

I was hoping to skip the primer route but maybe that's the way to go.

Primer and top coat?

Castle paints is up beside ya. Oxide

Nekarsulm

lakill Farm wrote: »

I was hoping to skip the primer route but maybe that's the way to go.

Primer and top coat?

Two coats of primer and it's good for years. Worth running over the metal with a blow lamp and chasing the moisture off moments before painting.

Top coat if you wish, don't think Lowe make colours.

Base price

I bought Lowe metal paint last month and the shop had 5 colours in stock.

satstheway

Base price wrote: »

I bought Lowe metal paint last month and the shop had 5 colours in stock.

About here near the sea if u use only primer zink182 it will rust in no time. Is the lowe paint better

lakill Farm

Base price wrote: »

I bought Lowe metal paint last month and the shop had 5 colours in stock.

where was that?

Base price

satstheway wrote: »

About here near the sea if u use only primer zink182 it will rust in no time. Is the lowe paint better

Don't know as we're not near the sea.

Base price

lakill Farm wrote: »

where was that?

Arro store (Keiths) in Arvagh.