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The Ultimate Irish Hunting Knife
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Maybe, I don't know yet.Good going Mallards.
Original for sure. Kinda Uluish but original.I know we are quite far down the line with this and I wasn't sure if we had to stick to the blade templates given. but I had an idea. If I moved the handle further up the blade it gives a unique looking knife plus better control over the blade. It would allow more force to be used for chopping or on the point of the blade to cut through gristle and sinew. My drawing skills are kack but with the right shaped blade and handle material.......
Mallards0 -
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Maybe, I don't know yet.Double Barrel wrote: »
I like, but why oh why the bent back? Can't we have this in straight? ;o)0 -
Maybe, I don't know yet.lordarpad
We are on the same page as to a straight hand knife.
This is where I would like to get to.
But Davy informs me the blade profile / grind cannot be sourced commercially. So the hunt is on for a similar blade profile and with a straight hand, not easy to find.
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Yes, Sat 22nd onlyMorning folks
Sorry I havent been so active over the last couple of days. Lot's of work going on around the house.
DoubleBarrell
They are some handsome looking blades you came up with for us.
When I said that the Blades cannot be sourced commercially that did not mean we can't have that Blade profile. I can make the blade that's part of the build. If I am right we seem to have found a profile which suits almost everyones needs in the Randall [above] .
We really have come a good way down the road
4" / 100mm Blade
1/8" / 3mm thick
Pathfinder Profile
Full Tang
Stainless to suit climate, I have some sandvik 12c27 steel which is a great knife steel
Now all we need to work on is a handle and a sheath
For the handle which is next, the most important thing is the shape and the feel in the hand a custom knife should feel very comfortable and safe to hold and use.
Other areas to be looked at here are the handle material itself and any fixtures or fittings (pins, bolsters, etc.) also embelishments like engraving etc.
The handle should be approx 5" /125mm long giving the overall length to be approx 9" / 225mm
To help get you started....
Right Click on the image below and select "Print Picture" ... Landscape.... Fit to media ... on a sheet of A4 paper and start drawing hopefully someone can post some really nice results.
Good luck
regards
Davy0 -
Maybe, I don't know yet.Morning folks
Sorry I havent been so active over the last couple of days. Lot's of work going on around the house.
DoubleBarrell
They are some handsome looking blades you came up with for us.
When I said that the Blades cannot be sourced commercially that did not mean we can't have that Blade profile. I can make the blade that's part of the build. If I am right we seem to have found a profile which suits almost everyones needs in the Randall [above] .
We really have come a good way down the road
4" / 100mm Blade
1/8" / 3mm thick
Pathfinder Profile
Full Tang
Stainless to suit climate, I have some sandvik 12c27 steel which is a great knife steel
Now all we need to work on is a handle and a sheath
For the handle which is next, the most important thing is the shape and the feel in the hand a custom knife should feel very comfortable and safe to hold and use.
Other areas to be looked at here are the handle material itself and any fixtures or fittings (pins, bolsters, etc.) also embelishments like engraving etc.
The handle should be approx 5" /125mm long giving the overall length to be approx 9" / 225mm
To help get you started....
Right Click on the image below and select "Print Picture" ... Landscape.... Fit to media ... on a sheet of A4 paper and start drawing hopefully someone can post some really nice results.
Good luck
regards
Davy
Davy, before I go there. the blade grind, can we do hollow ground? and I'd like to discuss the steel separately please
Having opinions there 
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Maybe, I don't know yet.Davy, before I go there. the blade grind, can we do hollow ground? and I'd like to discuss the steel separately please Having opinions there
Lordar,
What do you consider the pros and cons of both hollow grind and flat grind
(I gave my opinion above and would be interested to hear yours also)0 -
Maybe, I don't know yet.Lordar,
What do you consider the pros and cons of both hollow grind and flat grind
(I gave my opinion above and would be interested to hear yours also)
Hi Mellor
hollow grind = potentially sharper and easier to sharpen, not quite as sturdy
flat grind = sturdier, harder to get sharp and resharpen
also hollow = more aesthetically pleasing 0 -
Yes, Sat 22nd onlyOk lets look at grinds
I've always preferred flat grinds for 3 reasons
1. They are easier to make than hollow grinds (at least for me)
2. They are very easy to sharpen
3. There is less chance of an edge chipping out
I was looking for a way to explain this better and found this.
Hollow
For a hollow grind, the edge is made by two concave scoops. If done right, this leaves the edge extremely thin and sharp, for exceptionally-good slicing ability. This type of edge works best when high-performance cutting is needed. It is less suitable for chopping tasks, because the same thinness that gives the edge such great slicing performance also makes this format more prone to chipping or rolling during high-impact activities. That makes this edge especially good for chores that emphasize cutting over impact uses.
- Convex
This grind has the sides of the blade arcing down in a convex curve to the edge. The edge on this format is often very sharp, because the convex curves run all the way to the edge without a secondary bevel. It is also a strong edge format, because the thin edge thickens quickly enough to have plenty of metal behind it. The main drawback of this format is that it is extraordinarily difficult to re-sharpen. Knifemakers today tend to use a slack-belt grinder to apply this edge format. You can sharpen the edge in a normal bevelled manner, but then you'll end up with just a regular bevelled edge that thickens quickly, a format that will be strong but won't be the best cutting format.
- Flat
The flat grind is a format that combines most of the cutting ability of the hollow grind, with most of the strength of a convex grind. Flat bevels run all the way from spine to the edge bevels. This can leave the edge thin for high-performance. However, the edge thickens linearly as it moves up, so it ends up stronger than a hollow grind. This grind is also expensive to make, as the maker is required to remove a lot of metal. The combination of cutting ability and strength makes this a great all-around grind. From kitchen knives (which require thin, hi-performance cutting edges) to kukris (which require strong, shearing edges), and all uses in between, the flat grind is often an excellent choice.
Hope this helps
Davy0 -
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Maybe, I don't know yet.Talk to me about steel
Let me start out by saying that I do not consider stainless acceptable steel for a knife. I am not aware of a stainless that can hold up to a good knife steel in ability to accept and hold an edge. OTOH knife steel needs maintenance in that it needs to be oiled and that it rusts if you don't do so. Especially in this clime.
For me that means that for an easily maintained knife sandwich steel is the solution: knife steel in the middle in order to accept and maintain a good edge, stainless around it for good maintenance. I have a Helle knife made from that steel and it has served me very well.
The other option that I can see is a pattern welded or folded steel, but I agree that they are too expensive for a default option.
This is my current knife:
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Maybe, I don't know yet.Ok lets look at grinds
I've always preferred flat grinds for 3 reasons
1. They are easier to make than hollow grinds (at least for me)
2. They are very easy to sharpen
3. There is less chance of an edge chipping out
I was looking for a way to explain this better and found this.
Hope this helps
Davy
well, since I have no intention to chop with this knife, hollow ground would suit me BTW I look at the above as a fake hollow grind, as the actual cutting edge has a flat grind. 0 -
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Maybe, I don't know yet.I am on the look out for a resource for laminated steel but if you already know where to get some please let me know.
Some of these steels are very hard to aqquire and some very expensive as you know, but let's see what we can find. It will at least give us more options.
Davy
sorry, have to pass
Would have loved to be able to help. 0 -
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Yes, Sat 22nd onlyIve managed to track down some of this Japanese (Suminagashi) laminated steel.
It is basically several layers of steel sandwiched together and comprises of
33 layers in total
15 layers stainless steel
1 layer nickel
The Core steel is powder met SG2
1 layer nickel
15 layers stainless steel.
What do you think of this as an option ?0 -
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