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This weeks Classic Irish bargains that i'm not buying
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MrFoxman360 wrote: »
The blurb in the Irish Vintage Scene magazine goes..
Originally an off white colour from new in 1968, the 1st owner was in Shankill Dublin, in 1972 in went to Irish Merchants who were the 2nd 3rd and 4th owners in the taxbook, last taxed in 1980. Then the current owner bought it 12 years ago restoing it to its current condition.0 -
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Tempting XJ12 http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/4843353
Thanks Capri,
There are so many cars being advertised with poor quality pictures you would have to wonder do the sellers want to really sell.I traveled down to Co Clare from Co. Meath last year to see a shed that i was assured was in pristine condition a waste of my time and money rant over!
Went down to Adare myself for a Disco V8 but it was too bad - left lying 4-5 years - but at least they told me it was a non-runner so it was my call. That XJ12 at least is described as being for spares so anything more is a bonus
This runner is only €500 more and nearer to me - IF I was interested
http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/4818088
Wonder where their weak spots are
http://www.motor-klassik.de/kaufberatung/jaguar-xj-12-serie-3-kaufberatung-jaguar-v12-ist-besser-als-sein-ruf-5650971.html
Ironically, the capricious Jaguar V12 appears quite robust. Specialists know tricks that save costs - and disprove the legend of schrauberunfreundlichsten car. Engines and transmissions are durable.
Even the Jaguar V12 Series III is: the later the better. Better rust prevention, better finish. Jaguar saloons rarely rust on underbody and subframe to death. You sick, aged, but many small weaknesses. Front and rear window frames are often infested. The sill tips in the rear wheel arches, door bottoms and jacking and wheel arches Jaguar XJ saloons in 12-there is no shortage, the moderate demand often leads to long life, which in turn attract defects after themselves.
Weaknesses
Click to enlarge
First Corrosion on front and rear screen frame
second Sill tips
3rd Door bottoms
fourth Jacking
fifth Wheelarches
6th Oil loss
7th Electrical prone
8th Maintenance jam
9th Damage while
10th Accidental Damage
Vote Practicality 6 stars Parts Location 8 Star Ease of repair 6 Star Availability 6 stars Demand 6 stars Upkeep 4 stars Sun hostile helicopter is a Jaguar XJ 12 again not now. Experienced Jaguar mechanic change brake discs and pads even without removing the rear axle. Likewise, the spark plug change may well occur with installed air-conditioning compressor. Adjust valve clearance is just bitter that costs one day. Engines and transmissions are rugged and durable. Loss of oil on the crankshaft end is expensive, but the electrical system is prone to heal more easily than overbred electronics.
Price development With introduction 1979 (Jaguar XJ 12 5.3) 53,950 Mark
Jaguar V12's neat about it for 13,900 euros. roadworthy examples can already be found for less than 3,000 euros.
The mass appeal of the classic Jaguar XJ sedans ensures brisk demand parts. The providers are usually well-stocked specialist like vintage veterans Store in 65510 Idstein, Anglo Parts in 35571 Wetzlar or FW Schönborn 27336 Rethen.
Specialists SWB Automotive GmbH
Reinhard Schürer Reinhard Schürer
: MR Automobile GmbH MR Automobile GmbH
Clubs Jaguar Association Germany eVhttp://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/buyers_guide_xj.htm
Perhaps the key area to inspect in minute detail is the bodywork. A seriously rusty XJ can make the toughest owner-driver weep when it comes to fixing up a corroded XJ bodyshell. The main areas to check on any XJ body are as follows:
inner and outer sills
front sill closing panel (behind the front road wheels)
front wings, lower bottom edge and all around the headlamp
bottom edge of the bonnet and hinge mountings (especially on the S1)
inner wings, lower side members and battery tray (under bonnet)
footwells (lift the carpets)
rear arches and dog legs
rear under-bumper valances (bolt on)
rear wings, around the fuel filler caps
bootlid lower edge
spare wheel well (beneath boot carpet)
door bottoms (skins and frames)
front and rear screen surrounds (especially on the S3)
You may need to get the car up on a ramp to check these areas properly, and definitely when looking at the following:
front crossmember
front radiator support
rear suspension radius arm mountings
floorpans along their outer edge
Serious, holed, corrosion in just a few of the non-bolt-on areas may well render an XJ beyond realistic repair. Of course, virtually anything is repairable given time, enthusiasm, and deep pockets, but serious issues in any of these areas suggest that it may be better to find a more solid example. Chromework can corrode, especially the rear quarter bumpers on the Series 3. Bumpers on earlier cars can be re-chromed so long as they are not holed or bent. Fortunately, with interest in all Jaguars being strong, there is an excellent spares backup for the XJ range, so finding most parts for the XJ won't necessarily be a problem.
Mechanically the cars are quite complex, and need regular maintenance to keep them 'on song'. Even a dog-eared XJ will still drive nicely, if compared with a contemporary Marina or Cortina, so be extra careful that a potential purchase isn't getting baggy but just hiding it well. All engines need to have lived on a quality anti freeze mix, and don't welcome being short-changed in this department (the coolant quality in the all-aluminium V12 is especially crucial). Any knocks, bangs or smoke will soon make themselves obvious. Make sure you listen to the car start up from cold, and listen out for any bearing noise during the first few moments of the engine running. All the usual engine checks should be made as with any old car - look for signs of white goo in the coolant and engine oil, if you find some, it may be a sign of a failing head gasket. Oil pressure is important on both 6 and 12 pot engines, both must be checked from cold and once fully warmed up. As a rule of thumb, 40psi at 3000rpm when fully warmed up, is what you want to see with the XK unit.
The auto boxes should work smoothly and quietly, if not exactly sharply. By the 1980s the XJ was feeling decided 'old school' in the transmission department. As a comparison, I once owned a V12 BMW 7 series from 1987, and that had a nifty switchable 'box that worked superbly. In contrast, the S1 XJ12 (Borg Warner) that I once had, and the S3 XJ12HE (GM400) that dad owned, were really outmoded in comparison. The Jaguar boxes both work well enough, but don't expect cutting edge responses.
The independent rear suspension and subframe is a complex affair, with rear brake discs mounted inboard just to make life extra tricky. There are a lot of rubber joints, mountings and universal joints hanging under there, and wear in any of these parts will manifest themselves when you're driving along. Clunks when taking up drive could well be wear in either propshaft or half shaft UJ, equally the subframe mountings or (worse) the radius arm mountings could be pulling away from the back end of the floorpans. If you're at all unsure about a car in this respect, it'll pay to get it checked over by a qualified, independent, technician. Problems in the suspension area, front or rear, can manifest themselves by wearing out the shoulders of the tyres, so have a good look at the boots while you're poking around. Adjusting the handbrake, which is mounted up above the rear discs, is notoriously tricky at the best of times, and if the pads have been binding, it may well have generated enough heat to fry the seals in the diff (limited slip introduced on the S1 XJ12), causing leaks.
Assuming the body and mechanics of the XJ are ok, have a look at the interior. Sagging headlinings on the early cars are not unusual, but fixing them is not just a case of squirting impact adhesive up there and praying. A replacement headlining is the only long-term cure. Fortunately a lot of rusty XJs are being broken for spares, and many still have good trim in them, so if you are not going for a show-quality finish to your car, it is perfectly acceptable to find secondhand trim items to replace and tired pieces on a running car. Finding these trims parts usually involves joining a relevant owners club and scouring their classifieds sections, or slogging around autojumbles looking for the bits you need. To re-trim a tired car, you are looking at serious money. If your aim is to have a car with a mint interior, financially you're probably better looking for a car that is already excellent in this regard.
Series 1 XJs are usually sought by the enthusiast who rates the styling of the early cars over the later variations. The Series 3 is generally accepted as being the best bet if you plan to use your Jag on a regular basis, and is probably easiest to still find secondhand parts for. Lying inbetween, and often overlooked, is the Series 2. Due to being less popular in XJ circles, a very nice S2 can often be found for the price of an average S1 or 3. XJ Coupes, while stunning to look at when in nice order, are worth little more than a saloon if it has deteriorated. The longer, heavy, doors of the XJC, can often strain the hinges and A posts, causing problems of droopy doors. Getting the frameless side glasses to seal well can also be a nightmare. Many thought the XJC would end up being as valuable as the Mk2 due to its relative scarcity, but as yet this hasn't happened. If the later XJ40 type model is on your shopping list, I've put together a brief Buyers Guide on them also.
Read more at http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/buyers_guide_xj.htm#0Q5RpkJhqfB5L2Wq.990 -
Sweet little motor, not one of my more favourite shapes but what is it worth
http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/48483510 -
Sweet little motor, not one of my more favourite shapes but what is it worth
http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/4848351
I hate this bull ****, he's looking for someone to sell the car and buy it for him. If he's only thinking of selling it why is it on done deal?0 -
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Not sure if it was Eamonn Andrew's W109 , I seem to remember him in a pale blue one and a dark metallic green one - can't be clear on the reg's tho'
Def not this car. Eamonn did have a saloon W108 and he had two W111 Coupes but one was alway left in the UK. The car he used here was a dark green 3.5 which he bought in the UK. It had more rust than he thought and he spent a fortune in the UK getting it right. He brought it to Ireland in 1981 where it got an '81 Dub reg of the time ending in something ZO, that digit ahead of the Z escapes me know but I do have a photo of it somewhere. The car was bought by The Edge and used around Dublin into the 90's but has languished in a UK lock up for many years apparently.0 -
Def not this car. Eamonn did have a saloon W108 and he had two W111 Coupes but one was alway left in the UK. The car he used here was a dark green 3.5 which he bought in the UK. It had more rust than he thought and he spent a fortune in the UK getting it right. He brought it to Ireland in 1981 where it got an '81 Dub reg of the time ending in something ZO, that digit ahead of the Z escapes me know but I do have a photo of it somewhere. The car was bought by The Edge and used around Dublin into the 90's but has languished in a UK lock up for many years apparently.
He used to come into the petrol station where I worked - I'm nearly sure he had a powder blue one before the green one 0 -
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Often wonder what the 'stories' are behind the DD sales
1) The 'quick buck' merchant, brings over a UK car, doesn't VRT it but prices it at the post-VRT price :mad:
2) The 'ZV' / '** *' cars that have been VRT'd etc but the importer/owner got bored / found too much rust/problems
3) Original decent 'brown logbook' cars that are being moved on for whatever reason
4) 'Hedge/Barn finds' , did the owner die and the family are selling the motor
5) Worst case - 'collector' selling because he can no longer enjoy his collection for whatever reason
Chap I know , always struggled by and adapted 'tools' to fix anything, now that he has his ideal tool collection and time to do things, doesn't have his health
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:p 
This discussion has been closed.
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