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soild fuel stove advise

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  • Registered Users Posts: 600 ✭✭✭Cocoon


    bbam wrote: »
    Leaky stove would be very dangerous...


    If I leave the door of the the stove slightly open it sucks in air and becomes a furnace, if smoke leaks out from the stove or flue there is a chimney problem because there should be a draw from the flue...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 Flyman


    Hi Guy's. Thinking of getting a Hamco Glenregon multy fuel stove with boiler.Does anyone have one.Are they any good.?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 BrianMc1980


    luscaa wrote: »
    alrite lads,
    i built a shed and got a stove off a lad cause it was leeking smoke out the front.he only had it in for 2 days so possible wasnt installed correct. what kind of flue do i need and how high does it have to go? shed is 8ft high r so on outside. will single wall do me?

    Hello, Your Chimney needs to be at least 4.5Mtrs high, you can use single wall S. Steel 316 1mm thick or a Vit. Enamel Pipe as long as it is not going near your wooden material (roof) at this point you have to change to an insulated pipe and continue that outside.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 BrianMc1980


    Flyman wrote: »
    Hi Guy's. Thinking of getting a Hamco Glenregon multy fuel stove with boiler.Does anyone have one.Are they any good.?
    hello, yes I know Hamco, one on the oldest & longest running stove company's in Ireland, they have a good rep


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 Flyman


    Hi BrianMc1980,
    What's your opinion on the Boru Carraig Mor v Hamco Glenregan??
    Trying to make up my mind........


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14 BrianMc1980


    Flyman wrote: »
    Hi BrianMc1980,
    What's your opinion on the Boru Carraig Mor v Hamco Glenregan??
    Trying to make up my mind........
    Good morning
    One is steel the other is cast iron, steel is shaped and welded, you may get a design in the doors but other than that it is a square box, cast is melded and poured into a molded and you can get many different designs or effects but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Steel boiler stoves, if the boiler goes in years to come the stove goes, a cast stove, the boiler can be changed but if this happens you may be sick of looking at the stove and think time for a change. The steel stove is made in Ireland, the cast iron one is cast in China and assembled in Ireland. Company v Company, one of them is only 2/3 years old with a retail company linked to them already gone bust.
    Thats my 2 pence worth, do with it what you will!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 BrianMc1980


    .....we have just finished installing a Fantastic heat of it delighted with it, just one thing we didnt really leave enough room at the back of the stove and find the wall gets very hot, and might eventually crack the plaster, looking for a heat resistant paint to use on it at the moment. If anyone knows where this can be got?

    There is a Heat Resistant Plaster newly available, I think it its a stove shop product over a Hardware product, try these guys

    http://www.hamco.ie/component/k2/item/44-sealant


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭bootser


    Hi All, have finally read through entire thread!! still not sure weather to go ahead and get stove for two reasons.1- the wife LOVES her open fire finding it very difficult to budge her! 2- although i have a fairly new chimney(10 year old) i believe i'd want to get it lined, but if i line it for a stove and the wife hates the stove i cant really go back to an open fire!:( So was thinking of just cleaning and scraping the chimney and fitting somthing like a San remo inset for the coming winter to test the water so to speak! All going well would hope to line chimney and fit somthing like esse 301 next year.Any opinions!?:confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi Bootser,

    You have hit on what is probably one of the most important things to consider when buying a stove.

    A good stove properly installed is not cheap, they are long term investments so even if the technical data sheets say a particular stove is the best the customer must bear in mind they are going to be looking at it for at least ten years often as the focal point in their main living area.

    It is vital that all parties are happy with the look and method of operating the stove before buying, second hand stoves are worse than cars for losing their re-sale value regardless of the make and model.

    A problem with trying a poor quality stove or just not the one you really want is it may perform badly which of course leaves a double problem, it can reinforce any of the existing doubts that one party has and of course you going to lose at least 50% of your original outlay.

    Neither of the above is a pleasent thought, of couse if the stove works as you hope then you both win.

    I suggest a softly softly approach allowing "The Boss" to evaluate the benefits in her own time, less waste (ashes etc) same heat for a lot less money and work hauling in fuel.

    An average open fire produces approximately 3 Kw of heat into the room, by sizing the stove properly you can still have that nice flame and the benefit of the heat and all that goes with it.

    If you have another room with an open fire you might consider installing a stove there first ?

    Regards,

    Pete.

    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭bootser


    Hi Pete,
    Thanks for the reply, have gone with the "softly" approach and think i may have got her thinking my way, went looking at stoves locally on Sat.First shop unfortunatly she basically hated everthing(and it was a big shop with a good selection!),however second shop she seen a stanley cara and actually quite liked it:),i've seen few reviews on the cara but it has a resonable firebox and a 5 year warranty,plus a large window on the door, think i may bite the bullet and invest before the cold weather! Anyone else any experiance of stanley caras??


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  • Registered Users Posts: 514 ✭✭✭Cal04


    any chance i can jump in here for some advise, ye seem to know alot about stoves, flues, etc
    chimney query-2 fires, one chimney flue
    please read and advise
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showt...did=2056366609


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,767 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    bootser wrote: »
    Hi All, have finally read through entire thread!! still not sure weather to go ahead and get stove for two reasons.1- the wife LOVES her open fire finding it very difficult to budge her! 2- although i have a fairly new chimney(10 year old) i believe i'd want to get it lined, but if i line it for a stove and the wife hates the stove i cant really go back to an open fire!:( So was thinking of just cleaning and scraping the chimney and fitting somthing like a San remo inset for the coming winter to test the water so to speak! All going well would hope to line chimney and fit somthing like esse 301 next year.Any opinions!?:confused:

    There are European stoves that display a lot of flames, some with large areas of curved glass making the flames very visible.

    Lounge_1.jpg

    F_163_int01.jpg

    They are probably a bit more expensive than some of the simpler designs though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 750 ✭✭✭Tisserand


    Hope you don't mind me joining in here for some advice. Has anybody installed a Dimplex Stove? If so, would appreciate some feedback. Was looking at an 8kw model today. Already have a Stanley Oisin 6.4kw but the last two winters, it just wasn't warm enough.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Kevincoolna


    Hello there,
    Just wondering if anyone has a Boru Carraig Mor 30Kw stove ,
    Is it hard on fuel, Im thinking of getting one, I have a 2500 sqft house running on bulk Gas for water and rads, I'm hoping to run my central heating from this stove, someone has recommended aTripp TR25 stove also, any idea's. I have 19 rads in total (including doubles) I will probably be only running about 16 though!


  • Registered Users Posts: 135 ✭✭darklordsbane


    Hi Guys
    sorry to butt in can anyone tell me if I can put a multi fuel stove into my large fire place the chimney is about 6 metres high I just want to burn wood coal turf etc dont want a boiler just a hot fire, I heard Charnwood are very good
    any help greatly appreciated
    Regards DLB


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Is there a good link with the do and don'ts on flu install available?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    Is there a good link with the do and don'ts on flu install available?


    MI Flues


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    there is a lot in this thread and didnt see anything similar to what I want to do.

    I have a very old stove that the casing rusted out on and want to put it in my workshop for those freezing days, the budget is small so got hold of a stainless steel 12" pipe that is a very close fit - may have to grind rim on cast top and base by 1mm. there are the lugs to attach it to the top and base but I am wondering as the steel is 2mm thick will it expand too much with the heat and break off the lugs?

    Dont want to ruin the stove by finding out the hard way, it came out of an old school and the bricks are in pretty good nick so want to do it right.

    any advice welcome


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 cinneidej


    what is the best stove I can buy


  • Registered Users Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    bozd wrote: »
    there is a lot in this thread and didnt see anything similar to what I want to do.

    I have a very old stove that the casing rusted out on and want to put it in my workshop for those freezing days, the budget is small so got hold of a stainless steel 12" pipe that is a very close fit - may have to grind rim on cast top and base by 1mm. there are the lugs to attach it to the top and base but I am wondering as the steel is 2mm thick will it expand too much with the heat and break off the lugs?

    Dont want to ruin the stove by finding out the hard way, it came out of an old school and the bricks are in pretty good nick so want to do it right.

    any advice welcome

    Hi,

    It may be possible to reduce the diameter of the pipe using a crimper (not sure if that's the correct name).

    I know Oriel flues and Mi Flues have a machine that can do this, the thickness of the stainless steel should if anything be a benefit regarding expansion etc, I would recommend using a flue temperature gauge to ensure that you don't over fire the stove as that will prevent the bricks and casing from being burned out due to over hot fires.
    .


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  • Registered Users Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    cinneidej wrote: »
    what is the best stove I can buy

    Hi,

    First be truthful with yourself about the fuel available to you, most stoves on the market are not designed for burning coal so "Multi Fuel" does not mean burn anything in fact it is a term used a lot in Ireland because we have the option of turf and bord na Mona briquettes.

    If you think that you will be burning coal then make sure the manufacturer has designed the stove for burning coal, for example Hunter make stoves for coal burning.

    After that is down to personal taste and budget, ensure you allow sufficient funds for the flue which if existing may require lining or new stand alone will require twin wall stainless steel.
    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 cinneidej


    Thank you advise taken on board


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭bootser


    Hi all, just an update on what we went for in the end, got the Stanley cars and had it installed by a hetas trained installer. He cleaned and cameraed the chimney before declaring fit for a stove without a liner.NB also got a new fireplace! Anyway have had it 2 years now and basically the wife's opinon now is that we should have put it in Years before! We burn ecobrite, costs about €17 a bag but I can light the stove all day and still get the bag to last the week.


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭golfbgud


    bootser wrote: »
    Hi all, just an update on what we went for in the end, got the Stanley cars and had it installed by a hetas trained installer. He cleaned and cameraed the chimney before declaring fit for a stove without a liner.NB also got a new fireplace! Anyway have had it 2 years now and basically the wife's opinon now is that we should have put it in Years before! We burn ecobrite, costs about €17 a bag but I can light the stove all day and still get the bag to last the week.

    Who did the install for you B? How much did it cost? I assume it was a "Cara"?
    Looks like it was done properly with the cleaning, camera etc. I've been toiling with the idea of a stove for a while now but need some good, reliable advice before I pull the trigger! Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭bootser


    golfbgud wrote: »
    Who did the install for you B? How much did it cost? I assume it was a "Cara"?
    Looks like it was done properly with the cleaning, camera etc. I've been toiling with the idea of a stove for a while now but need some good, reliable advice before I pull the trigger! Thanks.
    Hi, dont know if i can name the installer,PM me for details if you want.It cost 1200 but we got stove,surround & steel backplate plus install for that,having priced arround it wasnt too bad but you might get cheaper now.It defo was done properly! and I would only say to you if installing an inset think about getting one with a back boiler,we still regret not getting one!Best of luck with your choice:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭owen85


    anyone know wheres the cheapest place to buy vermiculite in dublin preferably or in ireland if they can deliver. its for filling my chimneys


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Hi, anyone know best way to drill ss this thick. have just burnt out bit, cost 7 euros, didnt even get one hole finished. Had drill set at same speed and used oil on steel and then bit in water - I knew I would use 1 bit per 3 holes because thats what I got on the first bit - this second bit failing has stumped me - titanium bit any better?. thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    bozd wrote: »
    Hi, anyone know best way to drill ss this thick. have just burnt out bit, cost 7 euros, didnt even get one hole finished. Had drill set at same speed and used oil on steel and then bit in water - I knew I would use 1 bit per 3 holes because thats what I got on the first bit - this second bit failing has stumped me - titanium bit any better?. thanks

    Cobalt drill bit/ cordless drill slowest setting and oil should do the job


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Will try again, but slower this time. Had a real wobbly as burnt through the last bit so quick. fingers crossed. thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Bingo! having used the hand drill and not had great results I decided to use the drill press which I am more used to working and set it at the lowest setting - used lots of oil and didnt overdo the pressure. I had thought as it was a cylinder I couldnt get the drillpress over where I wanted to put the holes so I clamped it with big g-clamps to a table corner and it worked.


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