Aritech cs350 house alarm

Snake Plisken

KoolKid wrote: »

It's either the panel tamper which is the spring inside the control panel lid or else a tamper loop that is wired into the aux tamper connections, terminals 18 & 19 on the main PCB.
I'd start by checking the tamper at the door.

Would accessing the engineer menu give any extra information? Or is there any way to disable it temporarily so that I can arm the alarm when I leave the house? When you say check the tamper at the door do you mean the lid of the alarm? Or the back door that was opened as I'm not getting an open zone on that?

KoolKid

Check the sensor lid and wiring on the back door. If it's part of the aux tamper input then disconnect terminals 18 & 19 in the panel and short them out with a length of cable or a staple.

Qwerty27

Hi lads...looking for a little advice on a Aritech CP 32/33 alarm...when I tried to set it earlier I kept getting an "Open Zone 08" message. I've checked all windows and door sensors and the 08 reference doest seem to relate to either of these.

When I did eventually get it to set, it started to ring within about 30 seconds so before I contact someone to look at it is there anything obvious I might be missing?

niulmacdonald

I have an airtech alarm and I cut all the wires going to the box as the noise was driving me insane.

The alarm inside went off after I cut one of the wires and the outside alarm went off after about 15-30 mins by itself.

Can I expect this alarm to turn back on, or is that it?

Going to contact the alarm company as soon as they open

KoolKid

It's really down to what was the initial problem with the system that you couldn't disarm it.
Was there anything displaying on the keypad at the time?

altor

niulmacdonald wrote: »

I have an airtech alarm and I cut all the wires going to the box as the noise was driving me insane.

The alarm inside went off after I cut one of the wires and the outside alarm went off after about 15-30 mins by itself.

Can I expect this alarm to turn back on, or is that it?

Going to contact the alarm company as soon as they open

If you have cut cables in the system then the best thing to do is down power it completely, mains and battery if you don't want it going off again.
If the external bell rings it will turn off again after the 15/20 minutes.

foldogg

Hi All!

I've had a good read through the thread and picked up a lot of advice so far. Thanks all for posting.

I'm looking for reassurance more than anything..

My alarm went off very inconveniently at 6.30am on a bank holiday Monday.. When it did the keypad was completely dead an I couldn't put in the code to disarm it. The outside alarm stopped but continued to sound inside. I eventually got some advice to open the box, remove fuse 1 and disconnect the battery which I did with the mains switched off.

After reading this thread it appears that what happened was that the battery ran down and the keypad went dead as a result.

Am I correct in saying that the correct way to resolve this is to; replace the battery with a new one, replace the fuse, turn on the trip switch for the alarm (it has been off since), enter the code to disarm (hopefully the keypad will be back in action) then replace the cover on the box.

I'd be delighted with any advice! Or any simple yes/no responses. Thanks!

KoolKid

That should do it yes.
Also maybe have a spare fuse for the keypad just in case.
All the relevant ratings are described inside the lid.

foldogg

Thanks so much! you are a fountain of knowledge!

dolittle

hello
alarm went off, reset it and i am left with "line fault" and yellow light on at keypad
anyone any ideas

KoolKid

Have you a dialler connected to this alarm?
If so it's missing the phone line.

dolittle

no, don't have a digidialer on it
could the resistor across the terminals be faulty?

KoolKid

Nothing like that should register a line fault.
Also try power the system down and back up again.

dolittle

i will try it tomorrow
a bit too late if i set it off again
thanks

degsie

Can someone briefly describe how to do a 'walk test' on a CS350? I want to test sensors/zones but don't want the external bell box blaring each time I trip a sensor. Any advise appreciated. Thanks.

KoolKid

Engineer, Maintenence, Walk Test, Zone Number.
Only the internal will sound.

degsie

KoolKid wrote: »

Engineer, Maintenence, Walk Test, Zone Number.
Only the internal will sound.

Thanks for that, will give it a go

kub

degsie wrote: »

Thanks for that, will give it a go

I must admit i was noisy and i fell for your Eircode,

degsie

kub wrote: »

I must admit i was noisy and i fell for your Eircode,

My roommate Mícheál will be chuffed :P

kkelly77

A friend of mine has a CS350 in his house. Power for it is from the upstairs lighting circuit.

He was changing a light fitting in the bathroom and turned the power off at the fuse board. When he turned the power off, the alarm sounder started ringing. He turned the power back on to enter his code but the panel was only displaying, what I presume was, the firmware version 1.4 -=-1994.

Alarm was still ringing, so he knocked power off and had to wait until the battery ran out before it stopped.

Anyone know what could be causing this issue? I've picked up a replacement battery for him & will fit it tomorrow.

KoolKid

Try power it up on mains only. If it powers up OK then look at replacing the battery.

kkelly77

KoolKid wrote: »

Try power it up on mains only. If it powers up OK then look at replacing the battery.

I'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

FrostyJack

Hi guys, I have gone to resurrect my CS350 I haven't used in about 8 years. Last time it worked I was out of the house and it kept going off so a relative ended up cutting internal buzzer. Currently there is no display on. I measured 235 volts coming into the alarm and 6 volts going to battery ( have new one not installed yet) Worried that the display being off something catastrophic is wrong. Any suggestions?

KoolKid

Do you mean 6 volts on the battery leads?

What voltage are you getting on Aux + - and on
AB for the keypad.
All DC power out of the panel should be around 13 vdc.

FrostyJack

KoolKid wrote: »

Do you mean 6 volts on the battery leads?

What voltage are you getting on Aux + - and on
AB for the keypad.
All DC power out of the panel should be around 13 vdc.

I am an idiot I had it on AC (I was measuring input into alarm from supply and forgot to switch it over) From battery leads without battery connected give 3.7v, at the AB on keyboard is 3.7v also. I am not sure which Aux you are talking about but if it F2 , it is 3.7v also, or is is 18 and 19 ATL?

KoolKid

If its giving out just 3.7 volts DC everywhere the board is knackered.
Are you sure its not 13.7

kkelly77

Just wanted to update the thread with my CS350 issue.

With the mains power turned off, I removed the JP1 jumper from the alarm panel and removed the old battery. Turned the mains power back on. However, the keypad panel still had the same message on screen, 1.4 -=-1944 and would not accept any PIN numbers.

Turned the mains power off and removed the keypad panel. Found a couple of dead spiders adhered to the back of the PCB. Removed them and refitted the PCB. When I turned the mains power back on the keypad was working normally again. Disarmed with the default user code 1122, as the original code being used did not work. Engineer code 1278 worked OK as well.

Refitted jumper JP1 in the panel and fitted new battery. All sorted.

FrostyJack

KoolKid wrote: »

If its giving out just 3.7 volts DC everywhere the board is knackered.
Are you sure its not 13.7

Yep everywhere is giving that. I tested multimeter off aaa battery and voltage was correct and off new 12v battery. Are there places to buy a new board or unit or is it time to replace whole system?

KoolKid

Thanks for updating. Glad you got it sorted.

FrostyJack

Is it possible to swap the control panel and keypad out for CS350 with a CS250 using just the existing connections?