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BBQ Hut/Shelter

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  • 18-04-2020 4:19pm
    #1
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭


    I am planning to build a BBQ hut/shelter onto the gable of my garage.

    Got the area excavated last year and the slab poured.

    before.jpg

    slab.jpg

    The featherboards mark out the area i would like undercover, 5m x 4.2m.

    This is a kind of layout i would hope to end up with.

    hut.jpg

    I am trying to keep it simple as have never done anything like this before.

    What I intend to do is build a basic frame system with 150mm or 100mm fence posts, bolted to the concrete with anchors, have a 7x2 bolted to the gable and tie the posts into this using 9x2 across the front and 7x2 at the back and side, like the sketch below.

    Sketch003.png

    Some questions.

    Will 100mm fence posts do or should i use 150mm
    Will the 2 inch fall over 4.2m be enough of a pitch ?
    Will the rafters have to be pressure treated or will white deal i preserve myself do ?
    On the rafters, is 9x2 overkill, will 7x2 do ?
    Roof...OSB and felt or corrugated ? again, solid colour or clear ?
    How should i space the rafters, 18inches ?

    Lots more questions, but by even just typing this out things have become somewhat clearer in my mind...somewhat, YouTube overload !

    I also will be flashing the gable side,are lead and leadex much the same end result ?

    Once the roof is on i will proably shiplap the rear, side and a portion of the front, like the pic above.

    What would you do different ? What would you add or takeaway if you were to do this ?


«1345

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    #2
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,010 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I would look at doing a very light structure with polycarbonate roof, but make it so that vines of some sort could be trained up under the roof.

    That way you get lots of light but some shading and a naturalistic feel.

    Dunno how much of a gardener you are though.

    Do you really need to bolt it and flash it to the house? There's no access through there.


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    #3
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Lumen wrote: »
    I would look at doing a very light structure with polycarbonate roof, but make it so that vines of some sort could be trained up under the roof.

    That way you get lots of light but some shading and a naturalistic feel.

    Dunno how much of a gardener you are though.

    Do you really need to bolt it and flash it to the house? There's no access through there.

    Cheers for the reply, its a detached garage it would be attached to, just dont want water running down the inside when it rains..may eventually stick a tv on that wall.

    The vine idea is a good one !


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    #4
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,010 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    oleras wrote: »
    Cheers for the reply, its a detached garage it would be attached to, just dont want water running down the inside when it rains..may eventually stick a tv on that wall.

    The vine idea is a good one !

    Sorry, I didn't mean attach it and don't flash it, I meant have it freestanding.

    I'm not sure what you gain by having it attached, apart from maybe one less gutter.


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    #5
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,010 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Some pics I took in Croatia, for inspiration.

    http://imgur.com/a/yO3IRKX


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    #6
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    If open on one side wind uplift would be a concern.
    The other concern I have is water on the slab outside the finished area.
    Like L-n says, don't put a solid roof on it. will be very dark

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #7
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    If open on one side wind uplift would be a concern.
    The other concern I have is water on the slab outside the finished area.
    Like L-n says, don't put a solid roof on it. will be very dark

    Prevailing wind is from the left, westerly. Slab slopes to the front, so no standing water as such, wouldent be too worried about rain coming in from the front.

    I will be smoking and grilling inside it, so intend to leave a nice gap all around between roof and paneling, trellis type thing, wind will have somewhere to escape.


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    #8
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Lumen wrote: »
    Sorry, I didn't mean attach it and don't flash it, I meant have it freestanding.

    I'm not sure what you gain by having it attached, apart from maybe one less gutter.

    Just want it somewhat waterproof, wind and rain hit that garage wall and a lot of water would be coming in if i left a gap i feel.


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    #9
    loyatemu
    Registered Users Posts: 14,743 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    you might get some ideas here:
    https://www.facebook.com/twoislandslandsoutdoorliving/


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    #10
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    oleras wrote: »
    1. Will 100mm fence posts do or should i use 150mm
    2. Will the 2 inch fall over 4.2m be enough of a pitch ?
    3. Will the rafters have to be pressure treated or will white deal i preserve myself do ?
    4. On the rafters, is 9x2 overkill, will 7x2 do ?
    5. Roof...OSB and felt or corrugated ? again, solid colour or clear ?
    6. How should i space the rafters, 18inches ?
    7. I also will be flashing the gable side,are lead and leadex much the same end result ?
    8. Once the roof is on i will proably shiplap the rear, side and a portion of the front, like the pic above.
    1. 100mm would be plenty strong in compression imo. Racking strength would be the concern, but easy to add a diagonal tie to the side opposite the gable. Could be eliminated in base connections are solid.
    2. A flat room membrane could co 2". A pitch roof, like metal sheet, prob needs 8". Although, don't need to be as strict as with a habitable space.
    3. You could preserve the rafters yourself, but would be easier to just buy pre-treated timber. Are you leaving it rough or goign to the planed/sanded look?
    4. Depends on there spacing and the strength class. But 9x2 could be suitable for floors. Either 7x2 @ higher strength and 400c/c, or 8x2 @ lower strength and 600c/c. The latter could be more cost effective.
    5. Personal preference. I wouldn't be too worried about getting lots of light in there. could do a combo of steel and poly to let in some light.
    6. As above, depends on the size strength. 16-18 or 24 if joists are deeper.
    7. Much the same.
    8. I'd look at shiplap too. Could also consider a dual sided hit and miss to let air/smoke through.


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    #11
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Putting together a shopping list, just a few questions.

    I intend using these to attach the upright posts to.

    DSC01470.jpg

    Fixing those to the concrete base, what diameter bolt/screw will that take does anyone know ?M10 or M12 ? and how deep should i go, 75,100mm ?

    Also, are concrete screws adequate or should i use sleeve anchors ?

    Rawlplug_Ireland_Ltd_57114.jpg

    Or

    images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcQCLaYhSVgk-H5fIweETVhOqylwVHVhKpm6WF6oZG3J6NWmubw9P52kSAYhOlGxvlzTFBIbIw&usqp=CAc

    Thanks.


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    #12
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    How does the post fix to the base? Does it just sit into it and reply on friction. I'd prefer something with a fixing into or through the post.
    https://www.pryda.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/PSCF-RANGE-Post-Anchor-Centre-Fix.jpg

    If you have the depth, and hitting reo isn't a concern go with 100mm. M10 with multiple fixings is fine.
    I'd use the sleeve anchors. Mainly because I prefer them as they are more forgiving with hole size.
    But they are also easier to fix as a DIY job.


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    #13
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Mellor wrote: »
    How does the post fix to the base? Does it just sit into it and reply on friction. I'd prefer something with a fixing into or through the post.
    https://www.pryda.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/PSCF-RANGE-Post-Anchor-Centre-Fix.jpg

    If you have the depth, and hitting reo isn't a concern go with 100mm. M10 with multiple fixings is fine.
    I'd use the sleeve anchors. Mainly because I prefer them as they are more forgiving with hole size.
    But they are also easier to fix as a DIY job.

    Cheers Mellor, i have a good 200mm of concrete base.

    Good idea about physically having the post connected to the base, will look for those type.


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    #14
    moonshadow
    Registered Users Posts: 1,217 ✭✭✭moonshadow


    Similar project in mind myself slightly smaller in that my base is 9 m long and 3 m deep, again a lean to on to the rear of the garage, roughly 3x3 shiplap room with glazing and doors on left, 3m open space in middle and 3m sheltered on the right .
    The difference for me is that I’m putting clear corrugated sheeting, on all of the roof and two sides half way down at the sheltered end with shiplap up from the ground to meet.
    Materials due tomorrow hopefully.


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    #15
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    This would be my suggestion
    https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/en/Fastening/Wood-joints/Truss-posts-post-carriers/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Column-shoe-Typ-D.html
    drill the hole, clean it out very well and then epoxy it in, the one u posted earlier is sh1te

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #16
    moonshadow
    Registered Users Posts: 1,217 ✭✭✭moonshadow


    While they are lovely , I had to remove four of the OPs fixings yesterday, they had been fitted at least 20 years with the original 100mm square post and it took a grinder to do so.


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    #17
    oleras
    Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    moonshadow wrote: »
    While they are lovely , I had to remove four of the OPs fixings yesterday, they had been fitted at least 20 years with the original 100mm square post and it took a grinder to do so.

    Is this a pro or a con ?

    I don't intend moving it regularly...:D


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    #18
    moonshadow
    Registered Users Posts: 1,217 ✭✭✭moonshadow


    With regard to the roofing, I had the chance to get to lidl today and picked up some solar lighting units, the "stainless" ones at 17.99 I have tested under corrugated cover and charge just fine and work real well.
    The aldi staked uplighters are also versatile as downlighters on the front.


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    #19
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    moonshadow wrote: »
    With regard to the roofing, I had the chance to get to lidl today and picked up some solar lighting units, the "stainless" ones at 17.99 I have tested under corrugated cover and charge just fine and work real well.
    The aldi staked uplighters are also versatile as downlighters on the front.
    They work well now. Give them 6 months.
    Any cheap solar lights I have used have lasted no time.


    I'd definitely be getting power to the rear wall of the shed/garage.
    How else will the beer fridge work??


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    #20
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,635 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Hi OP lovely start there, nice big space to operate in.

    I would echo what's said above. If you roof that entire thing it will be dark and cold . Actually completely self defeating. You'd have to light it with unnatural light which then begs the question what's the point in being outside at all.

    Don't forget you live in Ireland. A fully covered area might work somewhere that's warm with constant sun to hide from but not here.

    I would cover only half of it at max. The left side over the cooking space. And leave the entire right side open to natural light and sunshine. You can always open a parasol over tables or even better attached a retractable roof to the side of the garage.


    Work within our weather confines. Shaded dark area open to the elements will be cold and uninviting.


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    #21
    JustAThought
    Registered Users Posts: 5,323 ✭✭✭JustAThought


    We have an outdoor covered area where clear perspex was used for the whole roofing - its been up about 20 years now and has become quite the tropical suntrap. Because of the clear perspex roof all kinds of plants are thriving in pots out there and it gives it a lovely feel - patio tables and chairs dry out when left out and its a nice place to be. A covered ‘drying area’ along the way that bizarrely has a solid roof is like entering the 1950’s - definately recommend a clear perspex roof. You can clean it every 8 or so years with a hose and brush if needed.

    If you are putting in a TV and fridge can you put in an expelair above the BBQ? Might prevent the people being smoked out of it like kippers or are you only planning on using the area to BBQ when its not raining?

    Also - seeing as you are so into it and good at it why not build in a wood fired pizza oven - would be really cool to sit around and give you somewhere to put your drinks/ BBQ equipment while you cook and party!


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    #22
    JustAThought
    Registered Users Posts: 5,323 ✭✭✭JustAThought


    Can’t attach as its too big but if you google adobe style pizza ovens or BBQ party areas you would get a million cool ideas!


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    #23
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    I would cover only half of it at max. The left side over the cooking space. And leave the entire right side open to natural light and sunshine. You can always open a parasol over tables or even better attached a retractable roof to the side of the garage.
    The entire rest of the garden in uncovered.
    By only building half a roof you are only reducing the effective area on the addition.

    Horses for courses. But I’d never call dedicated outdoor area for cooking meat uninviting


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    #24
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,635 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Mellor wrote: »
    The entire rest of the garden in uncovered.
    By only building half a roof you are only reducing the effective area on the addition.

    Horses for courses. But I’d never call dedicated outdoor area for cooking meat uninviting

    Well you must have just moved to Ireland then because it's not the tropics mellor.

    Dark covered out there area cooking in Irish weather. Nah.

    Needs sunshine and lots of it. Poster above demonstrated exactly why.


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    #25
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    Well you must have just moved to Ireland then because it's not the tropics mellor.

    Dark covered out there area cooking in Irish weather. Nah.

    Needs sunshine and lots of it. Poster above demonstrated exactly why.
    A poly roof let’s through about as much light as no roof. It also stops the rain. Which is pretty important in Ireland.
    Using “Irish weather” as your reason for leaving off the roof is odd. Irish weather is exactly the reason why I would cover the area.


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    #26
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,635 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Mellor wrote: »
    A poly roof let’s through about as much light as no roof. It also stops the rain. Which is pretty important in Ireland.
    Using “Irish weather” as your reason for leaving off the roof is odd. Irish weather is exactly the reason why I would cover the area.

    You've misread what I wrote. Entirely.


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    #27
    Mellor
    Registered Users Posts: 39,025 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    You've misread what I wrote. Entirely.
    No. I didn’t.
    I’m just pointing out my I think an uncovered area is not a great idea.


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    #28
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,010 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Maybe just put a cheapo gazebo up for the summer as an experiment before committing to major construction.


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    #29
    Rows Grower
    Registered Users Posts: 7,833 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    Token post as I'm thinking of doing something like this and want updates on this thread.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



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    #30
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Mono pitch roof, make a decent fall to one gutter.
    Use twinwall plastic for the roof, strong and rigid.
    The red base for the uprights are OK but I'd look for hot dip galv, if you are worried about them pulling out drill a hole and wind in a big coach screw


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    #31
    g6fdyotp5nj2l7
    Closed Accounts Posts: 436 ✭✭g6fdyotp5nj2l7


    I'm planning to do similar on a smaller scale. What's the best way to attach the wall plate to the garage wall. Sorry for hijacking the thread. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


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