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BBQ Hut/Shelter

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  • Registered Users Posts: 39,101 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Ignore the crazy steep pitch roof. But a shiplap door or pair of doors could be great

    F66D9EFHJAI01JE.LARGE.jpg?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Mellor wrote: »
    Ignore the crazy steep pitch roof. But a shiplap door or pair of doors could be great

    F66D9EFHJAI01JE.LARGE.jpg?

    Get out of my head dude !!! :D

    i already have the hardware on my Amazon list.


  • Registered Users Posts: 132 ✭✭SeanoChuinn


    Looks fantastic OP, can I ask what flashing material you went with in the finish up?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Looks fantastic OP, can I ask what flashing material you went with in the finish up?

    Its called Flashband, flexible flashing, flexible lead some call it. A lot cheaper than lead, but cost wasnt a deciding factor, chasing the wall and shaping lead would have been a bit beyond me at the time, if it leaks in a few years i will certainly go down the more permanent road of lead.

    https://www.mcmahons.ie/flashband-150mmx10m


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    And the roof is on !

    IMG-20200526-175923.jpg

    Shiplap for the back and side next, half thinking of adding some perspex windows to the rear, ill check out the cost, should be loads of perspex sheets second hand once this covid lark goes away...

    IMG-20200526-175915-2.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 39,101 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Perspex can get quite scuffed over time.
    What about an hinged slated panel. When down it blocks the elements. But it can fold to an awning to let in air and create a view


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,681 ✭✭✭2nd Row Donkey


    oleras wrote:
    And the roof is on !

    Looks great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,349 ✭✭✭Gloomtastic!


    Cool chair! :cool:

    I now want one for my man shed............:rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    I think you'd overdo it with perspex, plus it "goes off" after a few years. They're two big voids to fill, just a blast of 2 by 2s on the horizontal 40mm apart, stained the same as the roof supports would look classier and not too expensive.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    The practical problem with solid wind breaks is (a) wind load against the structure and (b) they tend to create weird turbulence.

    There's also some kind of architectural principle at stake here. If you look at the "weight" (size and colour) of the members built so far, as you go down in scale, from the outer frame to the rafters and purlins, you get a reduction in weight.

    If you continue this with trellis or other lightweight structure, everything will continue to look good.

    Conversely, if you start putting solid sheeting in there it will start looking weird. The brain will keep flipping from focusing on the posts and beams to the solid sheeting.

    It'll be a sort of shed/pergola hybrid. A shergola. There's a reason this isn't a thing.

    So I reckon trellis would be good. You can then plant climbers up the inside or the outside, depending on how green you want it to feel, or just leave sections blank.

    Alternatively, more slats.

    d150e1bb3dd7d1e8f8ca89875aa68151.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 181 ✭✭bfclancy


    Lumen wrote: »
    The practical problem with solid wind breaks is (a) wind load against the structure and (b) they tend to create weird turbulence.

    There's also some kind of architectural principle at stake here. If you look at the "weight" (size and colour) of the members built so far, as you go down in scale, from the outer frame to the rafters and purlins, you get a reduction in weight.

    If you continue this with trellis or other lightweight structure, everything will continue to look good.

    Conversely, if you start putting solid sheeting in there it will start looking weird. The brain will keep flipping from focusing on the posts and beams to the solid sheeting.

    It'll be a sort of shed/pergola hybrid. A shergola. There's a reason this isn't a thing.

    So I reckon trellis would be good. You can then plant climbers up the inside or the outside, depending on how green you want it to feel, or just leave sections blank.

    Alternatively, more slats.

    d150e1bb3dd7d1e8f8ca89875aa68151.jpg
    couldn't agree more, shiplap and perspex it will start to look like any old garden shed, what Lumen has shown looks great and is functional, don't ruin all the good work now


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    bfclancy wrote: »
    couldn't agree more, shiplap and perspex it will start to look like any old garden shed, what Lumen has shown looks great and is functional, don't ruin all the good work now

    Hmm....€500 of shiplap sitting in the shed...:pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,363 ✭✭✭randombar


    Looking at doing something similar.

    More a lean to at the back door. 5m x 2.5m

    The folks have one and it’s brilliant as an outside area for timber, etc.

    Would like to do the roof out of something flat as opposed to the corrugated. Ideally glass but that could be expensive. Any recommendations or examples?

    Also in relation to the pitch I thought a bigger angle would be better but I see people recommending flatter for less lift? I would be worried about lift so what do people
    Recommend?


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    Looking at doing something similar.

    More a lean to at the back door. 5m x 2.5m

    The folks have one and it’s brilliant as an outside area for timber, etc.

    Would like to do the roof out of something flat as opposed to the corrugated. Ideally glass but that could be expensive. Any recommendations or examples?

    Also in relation to the pitch I thought a bigger angle would be better but I see people recommending flatter for less lift? I would be worried about lift so what do people
    Recommend?

    What's the budget? Posted some advice in the Gardening forum where you cross posted :pac:

    Bigger angle for less lift.

    Polycarbonate is much lighter and easier to work with than glass, I'd guess will cost maybe 500 euros upwards for UV grade in that size.

    It does scratch though. You can get fully scratch proof polycarbonate but it's about five times the price!

    So the proper job is glass if you can stomach the extra engineering.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,363 ✭✭✭randombar


    Lumen wrote: »
    What's the budget? Posted some advice in the Gardening forum where you cross posted :pac:

    Bigger angle for less lift.

    Polycarbonate is much lighter and easier to work with than glass, I'd guess will cost maybe 500 euros upwards for UV grade in that size.

    It does scratch though. You can get fully scratch proof polycarbonate but it's about five times the price!

    So the proper job is glass if you can stomach the extra engineering.


    Ya apologies for the duplicate, I wasn't sure what the right area is.


    Budget hasn't been defined yet, kinda figuring out costs to see when it can be done.


    That's a good idea about getting a sample. I like the idea of the polycarbonate but I was finding it hard to find examples online of a "glass" looking version of it. Will see if I can find somewhere in Cork offering the same.


    So for a lean to you'd recommend just the angle to ensure water flows the right way is enough?


    I see you went with triple glazing, any reason you went with this rather than single pane toughened glass or even double?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,794 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Lumen wrote: »
    Bigger angle for less lift.

    which angle - do you mean flatter roof = less lift
    or the opposite?


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    That's a good idea about getting a sample. I like the idea of the polycarbonate but I was finding it hard to find examples online of a "glass" looking version of it. Will see if I can find somewhere in Cork offering the same.

    Here's couple of pics I've just taken of a sheet of 5mm UV polycarbonate:

    https://imgur.com/a/ksIuarU

    I tried to focus on and through the sheet in the two pics.

    This sheet I scratched to hell with a screw and then fixed with a heat gun.

    It is very glass like. Until scratched. :D
    GaryCocs wrote: »
    So for a lean to you'd recommend just the angle to ensure water flows the right way is enough?

    I see you went with triple glazing, any reason you went with this rather than single pane toughened glass or even double?

    It's for a set of large patio doors (total about 5sqm glazing area) so needs to perform. It's not really any more expensive so why not? I just need an extra set of hinges for the weight.

    But in your case weight matters, and this is open to the outdoors, right? So thermal performance is irrelevant. It's just the hassle of making the frames for toughened glass as opposed to the convenience of drilling and shoving some screws through polycarbonate, and making sure the glass doesn't fall down and kill someone.

    So I dunno. Whatever floats your boat. Are you going to clean it? Cleaning polycarbonate without scratching is hard.

    I think I mentioned before that there are various grade of scratch resistant polycarbonate (e.g. google marlon polycarbonate), but they're super expensive.

    Have a chat with a local supplier.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    loyatemu wrote: »
    which angle - do you mean flatter roof = less lift
    or the opposite?

    I mean steeper pitch = less lift.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,363 ✭✭✭randombar


    loyatemu wrote: »
    which angle - do you mean flatter roof = less lift
    or the opposite?


    Flatter roof = less lift is my understanding from what the guys are saying here but I could be wrong.

    Lumen wrote: »
    Here's couple of pics I've just taken of a sheet of 5mm UV polycarbonate:

    https://imgur.com/a/ksIuarU

    I tried to focus on and through the sheet in the two pics.

    This sheet I scratched to hell with a screw and then fixed with a heat gun.

    It is very glass like. Until scratched. :D

    It's for a set of large patio doors (total about 5sqm glazing area) so needs to perform. It's not really any more expensive so why not? I just need an extra set of hinges for the weight.

    But in your case weight matters, and this is open to the outdoors, right? So thermal performance is irrelevant. It's just the hassle of making the frames for toughened glass as opposed to the convenience of drilling and shoving some screws through polycarbonate, and making sure the glass doesn't fall down and kill someone.

    So I dunno. Whatever floats your boat. Are you going to clean it? Cleaning polycarbonate without scratching is hard.

    I think I mentioned before that there are various grade of scratch resistant polycarbonate (e.g. google marlon polycarbonate), but they're super expensive.

    Have a chat with a local supplier.


    Wow that stuff is great! Thermal doesn't matter to me as it's open and I am paranoid about having broken glass falling down on people so this might be the way to go all right.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    Wow that stuff is great! Thermal doesn't matter to me as it's open and I am paranoid about having broken glass falling down on people so this might be the way to go all right.

    Yeah, ask the supplier about thickness based on your rafter spacing and length, and whether you have any bridging.

    Obviously the longer the unsupported span the thicker you'll need it to be to avoid deformation, and the price is proportionate to the thickness.

    Thicker polycarbonate is much safer to clean scratches off with a heat gun, as it won't deform. I got some deformation in the 5mm which I had to fix by heating the opposite side. It takes a while. There are other means of de-scratching (chemicals, abrasives) which I haven't tried yet.

    You might also consider frosting it. Then scratches don't matter!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Realised i never updated this post with some finished pics. Still things to do but makes cooking outside a pleasure now.

    IMG-20200624-183551.jpg

    IMG-20200624-142423.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Q: How many BBQs?
    A: More.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,321 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    What’s the smoke circulation like when cooking ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,101 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Lumen wrote: »
    I mean steeper pitch = less lift.
    0 degree is no lift, it increases with pitch to a point, then it starts to fall again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,017 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Mellor wrote: »
    0 degree is no lift, it increases with pitch to a point, then it starts to fall again.

    Are you sure about that?

    http://www.singleply.co.uk/the-effects-of-wind-uplift-on-roofs/

    Wind_Uplift_On_Roofs.jpg

    ..and more engineery:

    https://eurocodeapplied.com/design/en1991/wind-pressure-flat-roof

    e.g.

    image.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    Lumen wrote: »
    Q: How many BBQs?
    A: More.

    There may be a few more tucked away in the garage :pac:

    IMG-20200711-174200.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,721 ✭✭✭oleras


    ted1 wrote: »
    What’s the smoke circulation like when cooking ?

    Hasnt been an issue at all really, biggest problem is on really hot days it gets pretty warm in there ! May install some kind of sun sail for half of it, again, its not that much of an issue...not that many really hot days !


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,095 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    Ya apologies for the duplicate, I wasn't sure what the right area is.


    Budget hasn't been defined yet, kinda figuring out costs to see when it can be done.


    That's a good idea about getting a sample. I like the idea of the polycarbonate but I was finding it hard to find examples online of a "glass" looking version of it. Will see if I can find somewhere in Cork offering the same.


    So for a lean to you'd recommend just the angle to ensure water flows the right way is enough?


    I see you went with triple glazing, any reason you went with this rather than single pane toughened glass or even double?

    5060521032503_02bq?$MOB_PREV$&$width=1249&$height=1249
    This stuff is 100 quid for 5x1 x 10mm

    You can get various colours and also multi layers (thats single layer)
    That sample is from B&Q so Im sure you can get it cheaper and you can also get all the bits and bots to join, finish, cap etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,101 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Lumen wrote: »

    Yes I'm sure. That is up lift. Kinda the opposite to lift. That's still vlid, but we're talking about two different things.

    In a square building the air hits the face and forced vertically. This creates a sort of vacuum at the parapet, which can pull the roof covering. This will reduce as the roof pitchs and occupies the void.
    This is caused by the face of the building, so in a open structure it doesn't occur.

    However, in an open structure lift can occur. When the roof catches air and is physically lifted from below. The higher the pitch the more it lifts.
    Kinda like how the vanes on a windmill move.
    In the OPS structure, if he didn't have the permeable rear wall, and a higher pitch. There could the roof could be lifted.


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