Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Home heating automation
Options
Comments
-
-
-
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
Hi Experts - I have been reading fro a while here, but looking at what I currently have - I am unable to confirm if my current system is capable of being 'smart'ened. I was very interested in the Tado (Smart Thermostat with the smart TRVs for all the rads over time) and sent an email to them, but they came back to simply say that I cant have Tado. Now I have been reading about Drayton Wiser here recently and am interested again. Can some one (deezell maybe) have a look and advise please. What I can gather is that - I will need an electrician to first put a clock/thermostat on the wall for me as there is none at the moment and no thermostats anywhere, also I may need a plumber to drain the rads and fit in new attachments for the Smart TRVs to fit. When I do CH - the HW is on automatically - but I can do HW separately as well - so I am guessing 2 zones (1CH and 1 HW)? The boiler is a Wamflow Goldbird 70/90
Thanks
From your images, I'm seeing a fully pumped system from the boiler to the HW cylinder, with tee off from the hot flow to a motorised valve. This valve controls CH, which are the grey pipes. Immediately after the zone valve the CH pipes tee off to as many as two different areas. This means with the addition of a couple of extra zone valves you can have fully independent HW and two CH zones. All the plumbing could be done in that area next the existing zone valve and pump.
Your boiler is suitable for external control by the zone valve relays, you just need to remove or switch off the built in timer. The zone valves will in turn be opened by their associated thermostats, Smart or manual. Manual on the HW cylinder would do. The timing of each zone is part of the function of the smart stats and their associated control box for HW timing.
As you don't have existing wired stats back to the existing valve or boiler, the Drayton Kit 3 would be ideal, two wireless CH stats back to the receiver, and one optional wired cylinder stat back to the HW zone valve via the receiver. Everything plumbed and wired in that one spot. The combined relays outputs from the three zone valves are connected across terminals 15 and 16 on the boiler, where the current timer is connected, see the picture below of your boiler wiring.
You'll have to confirm that your current setup is pump on for both CH and HW, if it was gravity for HW then the zone valve would not be needed as the pump would be enough to isolate CH.
As regards TRVs, you will need to change rad valves for them. This could be a job for later, or get them done with inexpensive manual TRV heads, you can change to smart later.
0 -
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Advertisement
-
-
-
-
-
Hello fellow Nest owners
So I got 2 nests and EI fella installed them, of course, wirelessly on the stands with charges etc which is annoying after a month or so
I would like to mount them up to the place where we had our previous thermostats installed and wire them up. That being said wiring them up is not an issue, but does anybody know what needs to be changed in the Nests themselves to get them to function over the wired connection (so I can have them without charger)?
Thanks
0 -
-
Hello fellow Nest owners
So I got 2 nests and EI fella installed them, of course, wirelessly on the stands with charges etc which is annoying after a month or so
I would like to mount them up to the place where we had our previous thermostats installed and wire them up. That being said wiring them up is not an issue, but does anybody know what needs to be changed in the Nests themselves to get them to function over the wired connection (so I can have them without charger)?
Thanks
You can mount the Nests where the old stats were. The two wires which went from the old stats need to be isolated back at the zone valves, where the nest heatlink boxes now control these valves. Once isolated, (very important, no mains voltage allowed near a nest stat terminal), the wires are connected to the 12v terminals on the heatlink, and at the opposite end to the Nest thermostat low voltage terminals.
These wires will now supply low voltage to the Nest stat, and also carry the Nest control signal from the stat back to the heatlink, so the stat is not connecting wirelessly anymore. This is useful where the stat and heatlink are seperated by obstacles and distance which can make wireless connection flaky. Instructions and diagrams for this in the Nest install guide.
Note; The wires at the old stats may not present as a pair back at their respective valves, as the stat live in ( one of the wires) may be sourced elsewhere in the house wiring, it all depends on how the sparks originally laid out the stat wiring.0 -
You can mount the Nests where the old stats were. The two wires which went from the old stats need to be isolated back at the zone valves, where the nest heatlink boxes now control these valves. Once isolated, (very important, no mains voltage allowed near a nest stat terminal), the wires are connected to the 12v terminals on the heatlink, and at the opposite end to the Nest thermostat low voltage terminals.
These wires will now supply low voltage to the Nest stat, and also carry the Nest control signal from the stat back to the heatlink, so the stat is not connecting wirelessly anymore. This is useful where the stat and heatlink are seperated by obstacles and distance which can make wireless connection flaky. Instructions and diagrams for this in the Nest install guide.
Note; The wires at the old stats may not present as a pair back at their respective valves, as the stat live in ( one of the wires) may be sourced elsewhere in the house wiring, it all depends on how the sparks originally laid out the stat wiring.
Thanks. Luckily for me wiring is pretty plain and simple so I have two wires going all the way back to heatlinks. All the wires go behind the (old) timer so it's fairly easy to isolate the stats (that are currently set to 30C to keep the loop closed) and bypass them. I was just wondering one I actually connect the Nests to heatlinks through T1 and T2, whether i need to change anything in the settings 0 -
No, should work out of the box. T1,2 just supply the power, but the data is superimposed on the power line, so the heatlink will pick up the signal wired afaik. Last time I installed one for family it was straightforward, heatlink just paired to the stat and that was that. Having to use the little power adaptor is a pita alright, but some users like to move the stat around with them, kitchen, living ext.Thanks. Luckily for me wiring is pretty plain and simple so I have two wires going all the way back to heatlinks. All the wires go behind the (old) timer so it's fairly easy to isolate the stats (that are currently set to 30C to keep the loop closed) and bypass them. I was just wondering one I actually connect the Nests to heatlinks through T1 and T2, whether i need to change anything in the settings0 -
Advertisement
-
No, should work out of the box. T1,2 just supply the power, but the data is superimposed on the power line, so the heatlink will pick up the signal wired afaik. Last time I installed one for family it was straightforward, heatlink just paired to the stat and that was that. Having to use the little power adaptor is a pita alright, but some users like to move the stat around with them, kitchen, living ext.
Thanks! I'll try to sort it within the next few days and post the results here 0
Advertisement