the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 26-06-2019 10:05pm

keane2097 wrote: »

It's got disk brakes so I'm planning to stick a pair of 30c tyres on it.

just because it's got disk brakes doesn't mean you should stick a pair of tyres costing under a euro in total on it.

(please, can a mod step in here, i can't help myself)

magicbastarder · 26-06-2019 10:06pm

more seriously, what size are the current tyres?
if they're 25s, sounds like a stretch (pun unintended) to pump them to 30; you may be in that 'probably fine, but is it worth the hassle of one ripping, for the price of two tubes' territory.

keane2097 · 26-06-2019 10:45pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

more seriously, what size are the current tyres?
if they're 25s, sounds like a stretch (pun unintended) to pump them to 30; you may be in that 'probably fine, but is it worth the hassle of one ripping, for the price of two tubes' territory.

Yeah it's 25c at the moment, I gather I ought to get bigger tubes for the new tyres? I'm happy to get new ones if they're needed of course!

Cee-Jay-Cee · 26-06-2019 11:46pm

riclad wrote: »

Can i use the derailleur from any old mountain bike or does it need
to be very similar or identical to the Sram x4 type derailleur .
i replaced a derailleur before a few years ago ,just using a pliers .,to swap in the derailleur cable .
And it worked .
But it was an older type derailleur .

You need one that is compatible with whatever shifters you have on your bike so for peace of mind your best replacing it with the same one again or look up on SRAMs website for compatible rear derailleurs.

LollipopJimmy · 27-06-2019 9:50am

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

You need one that is compatible with whatever shifters you have on your bike so for peace of mind your best replacing it with the same one again or look up on SRAMs website for compatible rear derailleurs.

Also for the love of jaysis use the right tools or you run the risk of butchering it.

riclad · 27-06-2019 4:03pm

I fitted a new derailleur 4 years ago .i used a small spanner , and a pliers ,but that was an older type derailleur .
Not like the sram derailleur.
I changed my tyre on the back wheel, yesterday ,
it works fine, the new tyre is slightly thicker than the old one.
Now theres a slight metallic like noise if i freewheel, theres no noise at all when i am using the pedals .

I did not move the derailleur or the back brakes .
the new tyre is 26 x 2.0 with slightly raised ridges ,
the old tyre had no bumps or ridges on it,
it was completely flat.
There was no noise at all when i had the older flat type tyre.
I simply put a new tyre and tube on the back wheel, i did not change the wheel .

bsb1971 · 27-06-2019 10:37pm

I need to find out what jockey wheels I need for an sram red 10 speed groupset and an sram force 11 speed groupset. I've bought both second hand as I've decided to switch from shimano. The current jockey wheels look ok, but I want to just swap them out and start fresh. I did look on crc but just confused me, so here I am, humbly begging for assistance!!!

Weepsie · 28-06-2019 9:28am

bsb1971 wrote: »

I need to find out what jockey wheels I need for an sram red 10 speed groupset and an sram force 11 speed groupset. I've bought both second hand as I've decided to switch from shimano. The current jockey wheels look ok, but I want to just swap them out and start fresh. I did look on crc but just confused me, so here I am, humbly begging for assistance!!!

Tacx do SRAM specific ones. So do BBB.

These are the pricier ceramic ones I've used the normal ones on a Rival 10 speed.
https://www.merlincycles.com/tacx-jockey-wheels-ceramic-bearings-56134.html

Weepsie · 28-06-2019 2:13pm

anyone have a rought idea of what it costs to cut a cork and install a starnut?

I can buy the nut, tool to install and the tool for cutting, but if it's a one time use I'm not sure if I'm bothered.

CramCycle · 28-06-2019 2:21pm

I presume you meant fork? I used a hacksaw and have the tool for installing it, could do it for you if you want to meet up, it's less than 10 minutes work

magicbastarder · 28-06-2019 2:34pm

derek cut my cork for me (oo-er) for €15.

Weepsie · 28-06-2019 3:13pm

CramCycle wrote: »

I presume you meant fork? I used a hacksaw and have the tool for installing it, could do it for you if you want to meet up, it's less than 10 minutes work

Thanks very much. I might take you up on that, otherwise I''ll get Humphries and to do it. The frame was originally bought from them so they'd be aware of length required, though perhaps miffed I didn't get the replacement fork from them.

Fian · 28-06-2019 3:38pm

Taking the thread title at face value. I need to adjust the limit screws on derailleur this weekend. I can figure out which limits the big end of cassetts and which the small by face value, but is there an easy way to find out straight away.

I guess just put it on stand, move to lowest gear and twiddle the various screws until i see movement?

As it is currently set the chain can fall between the large sprocket and the wheel. Chain keeps coming off on another bike (my son's) as well, though with that one is seems to be on the front rings, I assume that is also likely to be limit screws on the front derailleur this time?

triggermortis · 28-06-2019 3:53pm

Fian wrote: »

Taking the thread title at face value. I need to adjust the limit screws on derailleur this weekend. I can figure out which limits the big end of cassetts and which the small by face value, but is there an easy way to find out straight away.

I guess just put it on stand, move to lowest gear and twiddle the various screws until i see movement?

As it is currently set the chain can fall between the large sprocket and the wheel. Chain keeps coming off on another bike (my son's) as well, though with that one is seems to be on the front rings, I assume that is also likely to be limit screws on the front derailleur this time?

If you can put the bike in a stand and put the rear gear onto the smallest sprocket and turn the pedals, if you move the derailleur by hand all the way in and the chain stays on the gears, then the limit screws are ok. The way to find which one is which is, like you say, move one until you see movement. You will only see any movement from one screw in one chain position - ie if you put the chain on the biggest gear and move one screw and the derailleur doesn't move, you're moving the wrong screw. Set that screw and then move the chain to the smallest gear and move the other screw.
Park tools and GCN have great videos on youtube for this, and many other maintenance tips

28-06-2019 4:15pm

^ Saw the question and immediately thought of the GCN and Park Tools videos. They do a great job explaining indexing etc.

Here's one I've used in the past. Loads of other good stuff on their channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNG7g83lI-s

brownian · 28-06-2019 5:03pm

Here's mine. I have eTAP on my good bike. Once every 20 times, when I change from the small ring to the big ring at the front, the chain goes too far and drops onto the cranks. Is there an adjustment screw? Am afraid to go breaking what should be a self-managing super-system (said the guy in the shop!)

tuxy · 28-06-2019 5:12pm

High limit screw not set correctly.

https://youtu.be/XlLwu-SDo5w?t=391

MediaMan · 01-07-2019 9:21pm

Didn't get any response on this when I posted it on the MTB forum, so asking the broader world - apologies in advance if you've had to read it twice...

Anyone know, or even have a rough idea of, the torque setting for the pivot bolts on recent Trek Fuel or Remedy bikes? The main pivot bolt on my Fuel EX 8 (2019 model) has come loose and I want to tighten it at least roughly to spec. For now I've just tightened it "fairly tight" but I'm worried it will work loose again.

I checked the manual and it gives torque settings for pretty much everything except the rear suspension. Elsewhere in the manual it helpfully suggests to "tighten the bolts to the torque specifications"

.

Any ideas? Even specs for other-model MTBs would give me some idea...

Thanks in advance!

MediaMan · 06-07-2019 10:29pm

MediaMan wrote: »

Anyone know, or even have a rough idea of, the torque setting for the pivot bolts on recent Trek Fuel or Remedy bikes? The main pivot bolt on my Fuel EX 8 (2019 model) has come loose and I want to tighten it at least roughly to spec.

To answer my own question, in case anyone else hits this problem, I was bemused that every other bolt in the rear suspension linkage had the torque written on it except the one I needed to tighten. Then I noticed that at the opposite end of the bolt (on the drive side) there was a cover, and when I opened that, it revealed the real head of the bolt. Written on it was the torque - 16 Nm. So, mystery solved.

Tightening from the non-drive side had worked up to a point, I could see that even though the drive-side was rotating as I tightened, I was still able to tighten it enough so that it stopped creaking and rattling.

With access to the other end I thought I would be fine, except that the bolt is behind the chainring, and even with a ball-head allen tool, I can't get enough grip on it to tighten it properly. So, end result - the bolt is still just "fairly tight".

I think this means a trip to the bike shop as I don't want to take off the crank when it might not be necessary.

silverharp · 07-07-2019 8:56pm

where do we stand on WD40 for chain lubrication?, i know it shouldnt be used on bearings as it will melt away the internal lubrication, i have seen a reasonable consensus online in the past that it was ok for the chain

Type 17 · 07-07-2019 9:20pm

WD-40 is great for loads of things - cleaning, protecting (although ACF-50 beats everything for rust protection), freeing of stuck/sticky mechanisms, and is great for lubricating mechanisms that move relatively seldom, and not that fast (eg: locks, hinges, pivots, etc), but is not good for mechanisms that move at high speeds for long periods (chains, bearings, etc)

It might be ok for chains (in dry conditions) if you want minimal drag and are prepared to re-apply on every use (velodrome/time trial/short races, etc).

I'm finding Smoove very good - doesn't attract dirt and so far, provides good protection from chain-wear.

Flaccus · 19-07-2019 9:51am

New bike. LBS says this discolouring under stem is due to unidirectional carbon ? Normal ? Should I get ‘K’ layup spacers for better look ?

1st shot taken with flash in lit room. 2nd shot taken in normal daylight.

Type 17 · 19-07-2019 11:37am

It’s normal on some carbon items. Only reason to change it is aesthetics, but some people like it because shows off the fact that even small bits of the bike are carbon…

CantGetNoSleep · 23-07-2019 9:49pm

I'm doing a bike build but need to get gear cables - both inner and outer. My main question is about what exactly I need, particularly barrel adjusters

The RD came with a small cable which I assume is sufficient for the outer cable at the rear, and the frame has a small cable under the FD.

If I order something like this, what else do I need to order to get the barrel adjusters? I was planning to get the below but reading the Q&A it suggests there are no barrel adjusters included.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5800-tiagra-4700-gear-cable-set/rp-prod146657

TychoCaine · 23-07-2019 10:04pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I'm doing a bike build but need to get gear cables - both inner and outer. My main question is about what exactly I need, particularly barrel adjusters

The RD came with a small cable which I assume is sufficient for the outer cable at the rear, and the frame has a small cable under the FD.

If I order something like this, what else do I need to order to get the barrel adjusters? I was planning to get the below but reading the Q&A it suggests there are no barrel adjusters included.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5800-tiagra-4700-gear-cable-set/rp-prod146657

There's a barrel adjuster built into the rear mech. You don't need another one. You will need an inline barrel adjuster for your front mech if it's anything other than current gen 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace. Any one of these will do the job.

CantGetNoSleep · 23-07-2019 10:27pm

TychoCaine wrote: »

There's a barrel adjuster built into the rear mech. You don't need another one. You will need an inline barrel adjuster for your front mech if it's anything other than current gen 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace. Any one of these will do the job.

Thanks for your reply - both are Ultegra 8000. So if I understand correctly I can just use the cables I linked and nothing else beyond shifters and derailleurs?

rayman1 · 23-07-2019 11:33pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Thanks for your reply - both are Ultegra 8000. So if I understand correctly I can just use the cables I linked and nothing else beyond shifters and derailleurs?

That's correct. I installed an Ultegra R8000 drivetrain recently and both the front and rear derailleurs have built in cable adjusters.

tuxy · 23-07-2019 11:46pm

Good choice of cables btw. The more expensive dura ace ones with the polymer coating have less friction at first but get all gunked up over time which causes loads of friction! At least that's my experience.

Type 17 · 24-07-2019 7:41pm

tuxy wrote: »

...ones with the polymer coating have less friction at first but get all gunked up over time which causes loads of friction! At least that's my experience.

Yes, I see this all the time - the coating comes off the inner wire in the high friction (curved) areas and builds up like goo in the housing.

Joe Exotic · 26-07-2019 10:54am

hi

I recently changed bike from a 2012 Felt n95, to a Giant TCR advanced.
I had a retuil bike fit done on the old bike and one of the rec's was to change to 165mm cranks (i never did ths)

Can I take this recommendation to the new bike? is it still valid?

Assuming it is im also looking to get a power meter

I'm looking at the 4iii power meter Ultegra 6800 165mm (any thoughts ?)

finally seeing as i would be buying the Cranks and the Power meter is it possible to buy only the chainside crank and the power meter crank ?

Thanks for your help in advance

gaffmaster · 26-07-2019 1:06pm

murphk wrote: »

hi

I recently changed bike from a 2012 Felt n95, to a Giant TCR advanced.
I had a retuil bike fit done on the old bike and one of the rec's was to change to 165mm cranks (i never did ths)

Can I take this recommendation to the new bike? is it still valid?

Assuming it is im also looking to get a power meter

I'm looking at the 4iii power meter Ultegra 6800 165mm (any thoughts ?)

finally seeing as i would be buying the Cranks and the Power meter is it possible to buy only the chainside crank and the power meter crank ?

Thanks for your help in advance

Your bike fitter's recommendation of 165mm cranks would be relevant for any road bike set up to your measurements. Take note of the corresponding saddle height suggested too, as it will most likely relate to those shorter cranks (and not the assumed 170mm ones I'm assuming you're currently on).

In relation to buying a power crank arm - you'd have to buy a full chainset such as Ultegra 6800, and then replace the left side crank arm with a power crank. Alternatively, you could spend more and get a double sided power chainset.

Planet X · 28-07-2019 11:13am

Surly Disc Trucker.
So.....the front disc has been squealing for quiet a while.
I haven't been on my bike for quiet a while.
Gave it a good sponge down, re oiled etc etc and felt I had to address the front disc.
On line tutorials suggest looking at the caliper mounting, loosening it completely, "closing" pads on rotor etc etc. And, I forgot initially, opening the cable stop. Lining up the caliper exactly parallel with fork. Done. Happy enough. Tightened everything again. Pads parallel to rotor.

Still squealing.....but is this because the pads have worn unevenly and after a while, they'll even up in relation to the rotor.
I would think so?

magicbastarder · 28-07-2019 1:21pm

Did you clean the pads?

Planet X · 28-07-2019 1:27pm

No....never touched them.
Before I adjusted this morning, they were visibly not parallel to rotor.

Deano12345 · 29-07-2019 9:44pm

Test fitting my new frame and everything was going swimmingly, right up until I went to fit my cranks.

Frame is a BB30 Pressfit, the whole assembly seems to be made by FSA. Cranks I'm using are FSA SLK.

The issue I'm running into is the spindle fits in just fine, but its not long enough!

Is there multiple spindle lengths for BB30?

Looks like new cranks for me anyway!

ED E · 29-07-2019 9:48pm

Planet X wrote: »

No....never touched them.
Before I adjusted this morning, they were visibly not parallel to rotor.

The alignment isnt the cause of the noise, its dirt. As soon as discs get dirty they get noisy.

This is what you need.

ED E · 29-07-2019 9:52pm

Deano12345 wrote: »

Is there multiple spindle lengths for BB30?

68 and 73mm, the latter being the MTB and former road.

Deano12345 · 29-07-2019 9:58pm

ED E wrote: »

68 and 73mm, the latter being the MTB and former road.

Thanks,

Measured the spindle there and they are 73mm, but the spindle only comes to not even the face of the bearing as it is now.

Thinking I may need BB386 as this would give me the length, but I'm unsure weather the power meter I have will work then.

Think I'll give up and run Hollowtech!

DaveyDave · 30-07-2019 3:38pm

Any tips for doing a yearly service of the bike? My maintenance includes a garden pump spray rinse with MucOff and WD40 bike degreaser every few weeks with a clean of the rims/pads as necessary.

I only recently cleaned and reseated the seatpost, saddle, axles, pedals etc. Didn't take the cranks or cassette off.

Is there anything else I should do to look after the bike? Is it worth taking off the bars and stem to clean and retorque? Take off the cranks and cassette and soak in degreaser?

magicbastarder · 30-07-2019 3:40pm

open up the cage on the RD and take the jockey wheels out and regrease.
regrease the headset.

Planet X · 30-07-2019 4:53pm

ED E wrote: »

The alignment isnt the cause of the noise, its dirt. As soon as discs get dirty they get noisy.

This is what you need.

Cheers Ed,
Had another fettle with it this morning. Took the caliper off completely only for the "outside drum" to pop out. The outside adjuster that closes in on the pad. Not the red plastic dial but the one that contacts the pad. Here's me trying to screw it back in for ages only to discover that it pushes in.

All knowledge gained I suppose.

Pads out.....very fine sand paper. Planed them for a few minutes each. Back in. Adjustments and off I go. Squeaking finished.
Cheers
Got to work and used a solvent to clean the rotors.
Everything fine.

Deano12345 · 01-08-2019 9:21am

Glad I decided to build the new frame up 2 weeks before I actually need it.

Sorted my crank problem by fitting a set of Shimano cranks. Easy!

Only other issue was the brakes. I had flat mount so needed post mount callipers. Bike shop only had the one so I took that and ordered another.

Fitted it to the front, mounts just fine but the disk hit the inner of the caliper housing. Think the frame is set up to take 140mm discs. Googled it and it seems like all it needs is a cheap adapter. Sorted...I think?

Rear is a different kettle of fish. Caliper arm actually hits the frame so I can’t even bolt it in. Am wondering if it’s specifically the caliper I’m using (Shimano R517) or is it something else? Do they make calipers designed only for 140mm discs? Going to head to a few more shops today and have also emailed Ribble so hoping for something back!

Any advice is appreciated!

magicbastarder · 01-08-2019 9:28am

as is common here, photos would help provide clarity on the exact issue.

Deano12345 · 01-08-2019 9:41am

magicbastarder wrote: »

as is common here, photos would help provide clarity on the exact issue.

Knew I forgot to do something! Will upload more when I’m back tomorrow!

CantGetNoSleep · 04-08-2019 11:03pm

I found an old Garmin GSC10 speed / cadence sensor that I fitted to a bike that I use when on holiday. Has been sitting in a cupboard for at least two years but it works - only problem is it doesn't seem to have the cadence magnet that goes on the crank arm. Easily available online but costs 9.99 + delivery. Anyone know is there something that can be used instead of this or a way to get cadence measurement on the cheap?

04-08-2019 11:21pm

Is it just a magnet missing? i.e you have the sensor the magnet passes? Try plucking a strong one off the fridge and using that.

Also https://www.instructables.com/id/Very-Easy-Cadence-Meter-For-Your-Bike-12/

tuxy · 04-08-2019 11:23pm

What would be the most secure way to attach the magnet to the crank?

Buzwaldo · 04-08-2019 11:27pm

tuxy wrote: »

What would be the most secure way to attach the magnet to the crank?

Small cable tie ?

tuxy · 04-08-2019 11:31pm

Buzwaldo wrote: »

Small cable tie ?

Maybe, if the magnet is big enough and you file a groove for the cable to sit in place.

04-08-2019 11:39pm

Dab of glue , you'd easily pry it back off. Tape or blu tack to check it works first then glue in place.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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