the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Miklos · 06-02-2019 5:29pm

Now that's what I call a dead tyre.

triggermortis · 06-02-2019 5:37pm

Riding into work this afternoon, and my LH shifter jammed. The smaller lever moved all the way over, but didn't release the cable to move the chain to the smaller ring. The lever then stayed stuck fully over to the side. I fiddled with it at the next set of lights, and it freed up, and changed onto the smaller ring ok. I tried it again, and the same thing happened again. I've managed to get it back again, but am loathe to touch it again as I need to get home on it later.
I've read a little, and the general consensus is to bathe it in WD40. I can definitely try that before I ride home, but am wondering if I need to be looking for a new shifter. (Its Ultegra 6700 btw)

smacl · 06-02-2019 6:14pm

triggermortis wrote: »

Riding into work this afternoon, and my LH shifter jammed. The smaller lever moved all the way over, but didn't release the cable to move the chain to the smaller ring. The lever then stayed stuck fully over to the side. I fiddled with it at the next set of lights, and it freed up, and changed onto the smaller ring ok. I tried it again, and the same thing happened again. I've managed to get it back again, but am loathe to touch it again as I need to get home on it later.
I've read a little, and the general consensus is to bathe it in WD40. I can definitely try that before I ride home, but am wondering if I need to be looking for a new shifter. (Its Ultegra 6700 btw)

Something similar happened me a few years back, campag xenon shifter, which turned out to be a strand of frayed shift cable jamming the mechanism. Maybe check the cable before ordering a new shifter.

saccades · 06-02-2019 7:21pm

site_owner wrote: »

my rear brake disc seems to be 6-bolt but it is held on with a center lock (based on what i have figured out) i want to replace the disc, but is there a way to check if my wheel has been adapted before i buy the wrong thing.

the front wheel is 6 bolt, when fitting 6 bolt discs, will tightening in a criss-cross type pattern keep the disc aligned or is there more to it?

thanks!

The 6 bolts will align the disc to the hub, you will probably have to align the caliper to the disc (for width/throw).

As to the first bit - I didn't think it was possible to stick a 6bolt disc onto a centre lock hub, pretty sure you'll have an adapter in there to make it work.

I'd get a bike shop to check, I don't have a bike with an adapter ant more.

triggermortis · 06-02-2019 8:18pm

smacl wrote: »

Something similar happened me a few years back, campag xenon shifter, which turned out to be a strand of frayed shift cable jamming the mechanism. Maybe check the cable before ordering a new shifter.

Went out to the bike, turned it upside down and blew a load of WD40 into the shifter. It shifted a few times then stuck. Put bike right way up, more WD and all seems good for now... The RH shifter has a spring tension on it, where it will move 1/4" or so with your finger and then spring back once you release. The LH will move, but doesn't spring back, so maybe there is more to this than just a clean out - I'll see.

Definitely no frayed cable in there - just 1/3 can of WD40!

site_owner · 06-02-2019 8:39pm

saccades wrote: »

The 6 bolts will align the disc to the hub, you will probably have to align the caliper to the disc (for width/throw).

As to the first bit - I didn't think it was possible to stick a 6bolt disc onto a centre lock hub, pretty sure you'll have an adapter in there to make it work.

I'd get a bike shop to check, I don't have a bike with an adapter ant more.

Thanks!
Is aligning the camper straightforward or need any special tools?

site_owner · 06-02-2019 8:41pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i'd cut it.

the missing cap may be incidental, but it could be that the pedals are knackered - if it were me, i'd try stripping the faulty one and attempt to tighten it, with a view to having a replacement on hand quickly enough if it's shagged.

Cheers, the pedals are only a few weeks old, so I'll get onto CRC and see if warranty covers it

Type 17 · 06-02-2019 9:51pm

smacl wrote: »

Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.

Yes, you can convert a square taper BB to Hollowtech, once you take account of the thread standard, shell-width etc (which you have done).

John Hutton · 06-02-2019 10:32pm

smacl wrote: »

Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s110p0/Parts-and-Accessories/Components-Gears-Bottom-Brackets

See there

smacl · 07-02-2019 9:43am

Type 17 wrote: »

Yes, you can convert a square taper BB to Hollowtech, once you take account of the thread standard, shell-width etc (which you have done).

Thought so, have the new crankset ordered up along with a couple of necessary tools.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s110...ottom-Brackets

See there

Cheers, unfortunately the main bit that needs replacing is one of the crank arms, due to stripped threads, rather than just the BB. Do like SPA though and probably could have used one of their square taper cranks on the existing BB as an alternative to what I went for.

Peter T · 07-02-2019 9:55am

Have you tried putting epoxy metal on the damaged threads and then threading in your pedal ? A family member did this with his bike and it hasn't budged since

CramCycle · 07-02-2019 10:24am

smacl wrote: »

Thought so, have the new crankset ordered up along with a couple of necessary tools.

Cheers, unfortunately the main bit that needs replacing is one of the crank arms, due to stripped threads, rather than just the BB. Do like SPA though and probably could have used one of their square taper cranks on the existing BB as an alternative to what I went for.

You can get the crank arms retaped, I got mine plugged and taped before in CSS for about 20 or 30 quid. simple job. It will come with a caveat that the threads will never be as strong as before

smacl · 07-02-2019 11:55am

CramCycle wrote: »

You can get the crank arms retaped, I got mine plugged and taped before in CSS for about 20 or 30 quid. simple job. It will come with a caveat that the threads will never be as strong as before

To be fair, bike is used primarily for light off-roading these days and could also do with new chain rings at this point too. Also picked up new jockey wheels and chain in the order and have a reasonably new cassette, so basically an overdue drive train refresh in addition to the cranks.

saccades · 07-02-2019 9:47pm

site_owner wrote: »

Thanks!
Is aligning the camper straightforward or need any special tools?

Loosen the bolts holding the caliper, insert the wheel with disc correctly in the fork tabs (and disc between the brake pads, might have to push them back in with a flat head screwdriver).

Squeeze the brake lever so the pads clamp the disc, nip up the caliper bolts to the correct torque. Release the brake lever.

Weepsie · 08-02-2019 10:58am

aargh, trying to change the chainrings on 105 chainset and I think the previous owner may have used loctite or something as they are welded on and. Stuck for ideas here

Scratch that. 2 of the bolts are stripped though so can't get the hex key to do anything!!

Thud · 08-02-2019 12:37pm

Weepsie wrote: »

Scratch that. 2 of the bolts are stripped though so can't get the hex key to do anything!!

If you have a torx key of a similar size it can sometimes work/catch on stripped hex bolts, can ruin the torx key too though

Weepsie · 08-02-2019 2:00pm

Problem was that it looked like it required a torx key, but it in fact needed a hex key. So in using the torx key I stripped it a little. Or it was one that could possibly use both, as beyong the torx key it was machined for a hex. So 2 eventually came out, and 2 got stripped, 1 badly.

LBS is going to try and get it off, but my chainrings may not be usable. It's 5800 chainset, so it's not a straightforward job of drilling it off as other chainsets would allow.

triggermortis · 09-02-2019 11:55am

Weepsie wrote: »

Problem was that it looked like it required a torx key, but it in fact needed a hex key. So in using the torx key I stripped it a little. Or it was one that could possibly use both, as beyong the torx key it was machined for a hex. So 2 eventually came out, and 2 got stripped, 1 badly.

LBS is going to try and get it off, but my chainrings may not be usable. It's 5800 chainset, so it's not a straightforward job of drilling it off as other chainsets would allow.

A descent ezy- out is the best bet for this. I have a set of snap on ones that will get them out. If you’re about this afternoon I’ll be in work and I’ll do it for you. Or you can borrow them if you’d rather do it yourself

Weepsie · 09-02-2019 2:10pm

triggermortis wrote: »

A descent ezy- out is the best bet for this. I have a set of snap on ones that will get them out. If you’re about this afternoon I’ll be in work and I’ll do it for you. Or you can borrow them if you’d rather do it yourself

I'd have take that offer but it's in the lbs now. Going to call up to them now to see if they've had success. Might add one to the tool kit if you can recommend one.

triggermortis · 09-02-2019 2:33pm

Weepsie wrote: »

I'd have take that offer but it's in the lbs now. Going to call up to them now to see if they've had success. Might add one to the tool kit if you can recommend one.

There’s not one size for all, they come as a set for different sized screws. You can get a small set in places like halfords and they kind of look like drill bits, but I have found that the snap on ones are the best as they have basically a nut fixed to one end to get better leverage by using a spanner. They also last longer and are less likely to break. The set I have is part number REX10B, but you can buy each one separately as needed

SmartinMartin · 09-02-2019 5:46pm

Hi, looking for a bit of help. I'm stripping down a 1940s Raleigh high nelly, and it's been straightforward up till now. The problem is with the handlebar stem where it's connected to the forks. I've opened top and bottom of the fork tube and removed the ball bearings, and I've unscrewed the 8" expander bolt and tapped the inner wedge nut out, but the handlebar stem is stuck tight inside the fork stem. Before I use force can anyone tell me am I missing something else that needs to be unscrewed? Thanks in advance, please see the photos below:

Glencarraig · 09-02-2019 6:06pm

SmartinMartin wrote: »

Hi, looking for a bit of help. I'm stripping down a 1940s Raleigh high nelly, and it's been straightforward up till now. The problem is with the handlebar stem where it's connected to the forks. I've opened top and bottom of the fork tube and removed the ball bearings, and I've unscrewed the 8" expander bolt and tapped the inner wedge nut out, but the handlebar stem is stuck tight inside the fork stem. Before I use force can anyone tell me am I missing something else that needs to be unscrewed? Thanks in advance, please see the photos below:

Probably just seized with rust. Try a bottle of Coke, no better man for separating rusted parts

Type 17 · 09-02-2019 6:20pm

If you’re sure that you’ve freed the wedge plug that the long bolt is screwed into, then it can only be rust that’s holding it. Not too bad as it’s steel stuck in steel - an alloy stem stuck in steel forks is a real curse.

SmartinMartin · 09-02-2019 6:46pm

Thanks folks, that's what I was hoping for. Wd40 and brute force with a bit of heat it is so.

CrowdedHouse · 09-02-2019 6:51pm

FWIW I find the Tec7 version superior to WD40

Type 17 · 09-02-2019 6:57pm

If you’re twisting hard, be sure to secure the forks at the crown, rather than by holding the blades, or the front wheel - old style thin forks like this are easy to bend through twisting forces like in this scenario.

SmartinMartin · 09-02-2019 8:15pm

Yarra I use the term Wd40 in a generic way, I've several different types in the garage. As for bracing the forks, yes I'm keeping that in mind thanks, I'm going to sit them down over a thick plank and twist that way.

magicbastarder · 10-02-2019 12:10am

do i remember seeing a video where the steerer tube has actually expanded inside the fork tube from being overtightened?
i may be thinking of a completely different system, mind you.

SmartinMartin · 10-02-2019 12:40am

magicbastarder wrote: »

do i remember seeing a video where the steerer tube has actually expanded inside the fork tube from being overtightened?
i may be thinking of a completely different system, mind you.

I think I definitely have that problem on the second bike. Cannot get the expander bolt to budge.

Flaccus · 10-02-2019 5:07am

Have rotors and pads with only a few hundred km on them. Replacing rear rotor (as damaged). Should I replace pad at same time. Has very little wear I reckon but thinking might be easier to bed everything in nicely with new pads. Commuter bike. Ta.

doozerie · 10-02-2019 11:55pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you’re twisting hard, be sure to secure the forks at the crown, rather than by holding the blades, or the front wheel - old style thin forks like this are easy to bend through twisting forces like in this scenario.

I had exactly that happen to me a few years back when dealing with an alloy stem stuck in a steel fork steerer. Lots of penetrating oil, lots of leverage, and a reassuring amount of sideways/rotational movement became obvious after a few minutes.

Took me a while to realise that my forks were breathing their last, fork blades akimbo, the stem itself hadn't budged at all. Moved onto the hacksaw after that, dug a shallow grave for the forks.

doozerie · 11-02-2019 12:00am

Flaccus wrote: »

Have rotors and pads with only a few hundred km on them. Replacing rear rotor (as damaged). Should I replace pad at same time. Has very little wear I reckon but thinking might be easier to bed everything in nicely with new pads. Commuter bike. Ta.

I'd remove and check the pads and decide based on the amount of visible wear. Unless they are badly worn, or worn unevenly, or show obvious signs of either contamination or damage, then I'd continue to use them.

It's usually quick enough to swap in new pads anyway so if you decide to keep the old ones but try a test ride and decide they are not working well, you could swap in new ones then.

magicbastarder · 11-02-2019 12:13am

i'd keep the pads if they're reasonably new. i've taken mine off multiple times to clean, and do you think i keep track of which is the inside pad and which is the outside pad? that's a no.
basically, every time i clean the bike, i've a 50/50 chance of basically replicating a full brake pad change.

S_D · 11-02-2019 10:48pm

Hi all, I need help! I have a Zipp 900 disc, and noticed the free hub(188 hub) was loose, so decided to take it off, check it out, seemed ok (I think) , i cleaned it with de-greaser , popped some dry lube on the little pawl sockets, (Didnt lube anything else) popped it back together, tightened it up(not overly tight just so theres no play) but it feels very stiff and doesnt spin very freely! Maybe im being paranoid but am i missing something? I guess my main question is...how does one know when the free hub is worn and need replacing? (and I made sure to put it back together lol)

Ray Bloody Purchase · 13-02-2019 1:36pm

Spotted this hole in my tyre. there's a bit of a bulge in it. Will i be likely to have a blow out soon with it? I dunno if i should cycle it home tonight.

Type 17 · 13-02-2019 1:45pm

Shouldn't blow out, but may enlarge over time and/or the tube may eventually wear on the edges of the hole and you'll get a puncture that way.

A tyre boot is a medium-term solution, but the tube eventually wears on the edge of them too...

Ray Bloody Purchase · 13-02-2019 1:47pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Shouldn't blow out, but may enlarge over time and/or the tube may eventually wear on the edges of the hole and you'll get a puncture that way.

A tyre boot is a medium-term solution, but the tube eventually wears on the edge of them too...

Cheers, i got new tyres at the weekend. Going to fit them tomorrow.

smacl · 13-02-2019 6:22pm

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Cheers, i got new tyres at the weekend. Going to fit them tomorrow.

You should also check that some or all of whatever caused that cut isn't still in the tyre or you'll very likely get a puncture on the way home.

cletus · 14-02-2019 10:54am

I currently have a three speed shifter with a two ring crank set.

I'd like to set up the front derailleur to remove the ghost shift I have, question is, should I set the middle shift position to be the inner ring, and the top shift position to be the outer ring, or should I set the bottom shift position to be the inner ring, with the middle shift set to the outer ring?

Or does it matter?

Or should I leave well enough alone

magicbastarder · 14-02-2019 11:00am

how are you going to remove the phantom shift? by playing with the limit screws?

cletus · 14-02-2019 11:03am

magicbastarder wrote: »

how are you going to remove the phantom shift? by playing with the limit screws?

That's what I figured. Set the inner ring as you would normally, then use the h limit screw to prevent third shift, or vise versa, depending on advice here

magicbastarder · 14-02-2019 11:09am

i've never done it before, but one thing i'd consider is that if you set 'big ring shift' on big ring - which at first seems sensible, if you do shift down to the phantom small ring, which the derailleur can't do, you'd be introducing slack into the cable. i can't remember exactly how much, but i suppose there's a possibility that based on the bike, this might allow the cable to slip out of the runner on the bottom bracket cable guide?

cletus · 14-02-2019 11:19am

Thanks, hadn't considered that. Are there any issues, do you think, with the other option? As in if I have the middle shift position set to the outer ring, will shifting up again put undue stress on the cable?

The reason I was thinking of doing this is because with the current set up (as it came from the shop) I need to make the ghost shift to prevent some chain rattle at the derailleur. It's not the biggest deal, if I come from the inner to outer ring, I just give one last push on the shifter

Type 17 · 14-02-2019 11:22am

cletus wrote: »

...I need to make the ghost shift to prevent some chain rattle at the derailleur. It's not the biggest deal, if I come from the inner to outer ring, I just give one last push on the shifter

Are you sure that your shifter isn’t simply a double with a trim-click, (which allows to to cross-chain without rubbing the derailleur cage)?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 14-02-2019 11:26am

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

Spotted this hole in my tyre. there's a bit of a bulge in it. Will i be likely to have a blow out soon with it? I dunno if i should cycle it home tonight.

I have a tyre with a similar cut. The tyre had less than 50km on it when it was cut, so I removed it (from the front) put gorilla tape on the inside of the tyre over the hole and filled the hole on the outside with Loctite rubber glue and put the tyre on the rear. Its been perfect ever since and I have done close to 1500km on it to date.

cletus wrote: »

Thanks, hadn't considered that. Are there any issues, do you think, with the other option? As in if I have the middle shift position set to the outer ring, will shifting up again put undue stress on the cable?

The reason I was thinking of doing this is because with the current set up (as it came from the shop) I need to make the ghost shift to prevent some chain rattle at the derailleur. It's not the biggest deal, if I come from the inner to outer ring, I just give one last push on the shifter

If this is the case, then i'd just leave it as it is and treat the 'ghost shift' as trim.

cletus · 14-02-2019 12:05pm

Thanks for the reply lads. Guy in the shop told me it was a triple shifter (but Halfords...). Wasn't aware of trim shifter.

I may just leave it as it is, so

Eamonnator · 14-02-2019 1:39pm

cletus wrote: »

I currently have a three speed shifter with a two ring crank set.

I'd like to set up the front derailleur to remove the ghost shift I have, question is, should I set the middle shift position to be the inner ring, and the top shift position to be the outer ring, or should I set the bottom shift position to be the inner ring, with the middle shift set to the outer ring?

Or does it matter?

Or should I leave well enough alone

I have done this my "going to the shops bike".
It's an old bike, 20 years old with Shimano XTR shifter.
The shifter has the window to tell you which ring you're in( never understood why it was needed)
I set the high and low limit screws on the the front mech, shifted the mech to the small ring position and adjusted the cable accordingly, so there was no cable slack. Shifting to the middle position brings the mech perfectly to my outer ring. Shifting again meets resistance, so shifting is impossible.
I didn't realise until you brought it up that there could be a problem.

cletus · 14-02-2019 3:12pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Are you sure that your shifter isn’t simply a double with a trim-click, (which allows to to cross-chain without rubbing the derailleur cage)?

Had a look at the spec sheet for my shifter (Shimano Sora R3000), and you are indeed correct, type 17. Its a double shift with trim.

Thanks again for the comments, much appreciated

magicbastarder · 14-02-2019 11:33pm

noticed a creak, presumably from the BB, in the last week or so, and today spotted there's a little bit of play in the cranks.
am going to bring the bike around to the LBS tomorrow; it was there about 18 months ago to fix a similar creak and they spotted that one side of the BB had become slightly loose (it's an english thread BB, so a bit like pedals in that one side is righty loosey); they charged €15 to regrease and tighten it and it's been fine till now.

so the decision tomorrow - pay a professional €15 to sort it for me, or buy the tool and do it myself but have to learn how to do it along the way, and probably make mistakes?
i know which i *should* do, but what should i do, is the question.

cletus · 14-02-2019 11:56pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

noticed a creak, presumably from the BB, in the last week or so, and today spotted there's a little bit of play in the cranks.
am going to bring the bike around to the LBS tomorrow; it was there about 18 months ago to fix a similar creak and they spotted that one side of the BB had become slightly loose (it's an english thread BB, so a bit like pedals in that one side is righty loosey); they charged €15 to regrease and tighten it and it's been fine till now.

so the decision tomorrow - pay a professional €15 to sort it for me, or buy the tool and do it myself but have to learn how to do it along the way, and probably make mistakes?
i know which i *should* do, but what should i do, is the question.

I may be new to the cycling thing, but the answer to "should I buy a new tool?" is "always"

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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