padyjoe wrote: » My rear Durano is nearing it's end of life. I have few spots on the thread where I can see the carcass. Am I right I have no puncture protection in those spots anymore? Would you get more out of this tyre or change it? I don't feel anything funny happening on the rear yet. I don't want to take risks, especially on a descent.
site_owner wrote: » i have a bar end mirror to install, but the grip on my handlebar is rubber covering the hole. is it ok to cut the grip or do i need a different one? one of my pedals is sliding left and right a few mm, theres a plug on one that isnt on the other, is there anyhting to stop the lateral movement? (mountain bike type pedals)
loyatemu wrote: » when you say "see the carcass", you mean you can see the lining under the rubber? Then yeah, that tyre is done.
padyjoe wrote: » I see this: Thanks, lads! I change it for the next spin.
triggermortis wrote: » Riding into work this afternoon, and my LH shifter jammed. The smaller lever moved all the way over, but didn't release the cable to move the chain to the smaller ring. The lever then stayed stuck fully over to the side. I fiddled with it at the next set of lights, and it freed up, and changed onto the smaller ring ok. I tried it again, and the same thing happened again. I've managed to get it back again, but am loathe to touch it again as I need to get home on it later. I've read a little, and the general consensus is to bathe it in WD40. I can definitely try that before I ride home, but am wondering if I need to be looking for a new shifter. (Its Ultegra 6700 btw)
site_owner wrote: » my rear brake disc seems to be 6-bolt but it is held on with a center lock (based on what i have figured out) i want to replace the disc, but is there a way to check if my wheel has been adapted before i buy the wrong thing. the front wheel is 6 bolt, when fitting 6 bolt discs, will tightening in a criss-cross type pattern keep the disc aligned or is there more to it? thanks!
smacl wrote: » Something similar happened me a few years back, campag xenon shifter, which turned out to be a strand of frayed shift cable jamming the mechanism. Maybe check the cable before ordering a new shifter.
saccades wrote: » The 6 bolts will align the disc to the hub, you will probably have to align the caliper to the disc (for width/throw). As to the first bit - I didn't think it was possible to stick a 6bolt disc onto a centre lock hub, pretty sure you'll have an adapter in there to make it work. I'd get a bike shop to check, I don't have a bike with an adapter ant more.
magicbastarder wrote: » i'd cut it. the missing cap may be incidental, but it could be that the pedals are knackered - if it were me, i'd try stripping the faulty one and attempt to tighten it, with a view to having a replacement on hand quickly enough if it's shagged.
smacl wrote: » Looking to replace an old 3x9 Deore crankset with square taper BB on my ageing hack but all I'm seeing are ones with hollowtech BBs like this. Am I right in assuming this would work ok? Current BB shell width is 68mm and the BB52 Hollowtech is listed as 68-73mm, both are BSA threaded.
Type 17 wrote: » Yes, you can convert a square taper BB to Hollowtech, once you take account of the thread standard, shell-width etc (which you have done).
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s110...ottom-Brackets See there
smacl wrote: » Thought so, have the new crankset ordered up along with a couple of necessary tools. Cheers, unfortunately the main bit that needs replacing is one of the crank arms, due to stripped threads, rather than just the BB. Do like SPA though and probably could have used one of their square taper cranks on the existing BB as an alternative to what I went for.
CramCycle wrote: » You can get the crank arms retaped, I got mine plugged and taped before in CSS for about 20 or 30 quid. simple job. It will come with a caveat that the threads will never be as strong as before
site_owner wrote: » Thanks! Is aligning the camper straightforward or need any special tools?
Weepsie wrote: » Scratch that. 2 of the bolts are stripped though so can't get the hex key to do anything!!
Weepsie wrote: » Problem was that it looked like it required a torx key, but it in fact needed a hex key. So in using the torx key I stripped it a little. Or it was one that could possibly use both, as beyong the torx key it was machined for a hex. So 2 eventually came out, and 2 got stripped, 1 badly. LBS is going to try and get it off, but my chainrings may not be usable. It's 5800 chainset, so it's not a straightforward job of drilling it off as other chainsets would allow.
Weepsie wrote: » I'd have take that offer but it's in the lbs now. Going to call up to them now to see if they've had success. Might add one to the tool kit if you can recommend one.
SmartinMartin wrote: » Hi, looking for a bit of help. I'm stripping down a 1940s Raleigh high nelly, and it's been straightforward up till now. The problem is with the handlebar stem where it's connected to the forks. I've opened top and bottom of the fork tube and removed the ball bearings, and I've unscrewed the 8" expander bolt and tapped the inner wedge nut out, but the handlebar stem is stuck tight inside the fork stem. Before I use force can anyone tell me am I missing something else that needs to be unscrewed? Thanks in advance, please see the photos below:
