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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,460 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Always handy to have a second bike as well :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 36,165 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    Lads what all things do i need to maintain my brand new bike ? Degreaser, chain oil are top two in my list...anything else ?

    In case you haven't already: Saddle bag with all the essentials. Practice with Co2 at home.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,460 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Rolled my bike into the office and went to hide it in a cupboard as people started filling up the stairwells with bikes and the fire marshals rightly went mental. When I put it up on its back wheel about a litre of water flowed out.

    Its an alu frame, is there anything to worry about that i should take it apart and clean / dry? Or will just taking off the seat post and leaving it for a few hours be OK?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Rolled my bike into the office and went to hide it in a cupboard as people started filling up the stairwells with bikes and the fire marshals rightly went mental. When I put it up on its back wheel about a litre of water flowed out.

    Its an alu frame, is there anything to worry about that i should take it apart and clean / dry? Or will just taking off the seat post and leaving it for a few hours be OK?

    Yes, remove the seat post, turn the bike upside down and drain any water out.
    Remember to re-grease the seatpost when refitting!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Bottom bracket unit may be water-damaged, but it’s either properly sealed and it’s ok, or the damage is already done, and you’ll need a new one soon.


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,460 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Bottom bracket unit may be water-damaged, but it’s either properly sealed and it’s ok, or the damage is already done, and you’ll need a new one soon.

    Tis sealed and only a few weeks old, it was only out in the wet once, another 100ml came out when I took out the seat tube.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Then the BB is probably fine, but long-term, water sitting inside a frame sits in the lowest part, the BB shell, and no seal lasts forever...

    e39A9g5.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

    The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

    It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    Iv been considering replacing mine also due to a creak from the left side but i dont have a clue about BB standards. Generally if im replacing something i like to give it a bit of an upgrade. From the giant website it has a shimano BB-RS500 Press fit. Its running a 105 groupset. Anyone point me in the direction of a upgrade or what i can put in?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,374 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?
    might sound a little odd, but put a tiny drop of lube around each spoke nipple. just in case it's a spoke flexing a little where it meets the rim. has fixed creaking for me twice previously.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

    The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

    It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

    Remove your rear wheel..clean the frame dropouts and the wheel axle ends. Put a drop of oil on your little finger and apply the oil to the dropouts and the axle. Do this for the front wheel also. Refit your wheels, make it sure they are tight and I bet it solves your problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,956 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    I'm a bit puzzled!

    I changed the cassette and chain (10 speed) on one of my bikes today - something I've done countless times.

    When I tightened up the lock nut, there was still a bit of play in the sprockets even though I used the 1mm spacer provided. I fitted a second spacer and this time it tightened up as normal.

    I took it for a test ride and it appears to be working fine but I'm a bit perplexed. I never had to use a second spacer before and I've used several types of cassettes (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra). Any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    I'm a bit puzzled!

    I changed the cassette and chain (10 speed) on one of my bikes today - something I've done countless times.

    When I tightened up the lock nut, there was still a bit of play in the sprockets even though I used the 1mm spacer provided. I fitted a second spacer and this time it tightened up as normal.

    I took it for a test ride and it appears to be working fine but I'm a bit perplexed. I never had to use a second spacer before and I've used several types of cassettes (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra). Any ideas?


    Was there a spacer missing from the last few cogs?


  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

    The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

    It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

    Turns out the noise was coming from a dirty drive train. After a thorough clean the noise disappeared.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,956 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Milk_Tray wrote: »
    Was there a spacer missing from the last few cogs?
    Do you mean the normal plastic spacer between the smaller cogs? They are all present and inserted correctly. (Otherwise the chain wouldn't have changed sprockets properly).


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,639 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    If I try to move the crank arms there is some play which seems like a BB to me, safe to assume this?
    It seems to be a BB72, tcr advanced 1.

    Any idea on lbs charges for a replacement? Headset last week and bb this week.... Gggrrgghhhh


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,436 ✭✭✭Izoard


    Rubbing sound coming from the cranks (Canyon Ultimate).

    Sounds for all the world as a rub on the rim (it is not , but lots of commentary when on a group ride...:o), have had a few attempts to lube the cranks/bearings, but no joy?


  • Registered Users Posts: 683 ✭✭✭brianomc


    A friend of mine bought a secondhand mountain bike with UST wheels and tubeless tyres. He wants to go with tubes instead, the bike will never be used on trails or anything, just roads/cycleways.

    Has anyone any experience with this? Is it as easy as just sticking a tube and a clincher tyre on and away he goes? It's a 26" Mavic xm819 rim.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,460 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    dahat wrote: »
    If I try to move the crank arms there is some play which seems like a BB to me, safe to assume this?
    It seems to be a BB72, tcr advanced 1.

    Any idea on lbs charges for a replacement? Headset last week and bb this week.... Gggrrgghhhh

    BB will be under 30euro plus labour. If there is not much work involved then sub 40euro
    brianomc wrote: »
    A friend of mine bought a secondhand mountain bike with UST wheels and tubeless tyres. He wants to go with tubes instead, the bike will never be used on trails or anything, just roads/cycleways.

    Has anyone any experience with this? Is it as easy as just sticking a tube and a clincher tyre on and away he goes? It's a 26" Mavic xm819 rim.
    would he just no leave it as is for the moment and carry a tube/pump? This said, it is tubeless ready so as you asked, he can just stick on a suitable clincher and tube.


  • Registered Users Posts: 683 ✭✭✭brianomc


    CramCycle wrote: »
    would he just no leave it as is for the moment and carry a tube/pump? This said, it is tubeless ready so as you asked, he can just stick on a suitable clincher and tube.

    Cheers, he wanted to change it from thick MTB tyres to maybe a 35mm with a more commuter-tyre like profile.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 754 ✭✭✭GeneralC


    Excellent thread. So much great information :)

    I purchased a new bike and I have a questions, if someone would kindly answer?

    I typcially ride every day for 30km's and then on the weekends, I'd do a 75km spin.

    1.How often would you lube the chain?

    2. How often would you clean the bike?

    3. What tools/part/accessories are must have?

    4. I hear all this talk about Strava, Watts, Segments, cadence etc can you explain it?

    5. Can you recommend a bike computer?

    6. Any tips for newbies getting into road cycling?

    Thanks :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 754 ✭✭✭GeneralC


    Is there anyone on here who can bike maintenance lessons to a beginner?

    I bought a lovely bike and I don't have the money to be brinfing to my local bike shop every time for basic maintenance work


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,374 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    1. i do it maybe once a week i'd say, depends on whether you've been cycling in wet or mucky conditions too. you can often hear it becoming 'chatty' if it starts to dry.
    2. when it's dirty!
    3. for out on the road - spare tubes, tyre levers, multitool, and a means of inflating. i have a mini-pump, some people prefer CO2 cartridges.
    4. unless you're training for a race, don't worry about watts. download strava to your smartphone and use that for a while to track your cycles and figure out if you want a cycle computer. segments are a concept in strava where someone 'marks out' a section of road - could be any length - so when you cycle that segment, your time along it is recorded and can be compared against a public leaderboard. you can set up private ones as well if you just want to track your own progress.
    cadence is simply how fast you pedal; especially starting out, you're probably better off picking an easier gear and pedalling faster for the same speed. it creates less strain on your knees, plus can help from tiring out too quickly.

    GCN have quite a few videos with tips on getting the best out of your bike/cycle.
    for example - one on washing your bike quickly:



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 754 ✭✭✭GeneralC


    1. i do it maybe once a week i'd say, depends on whether you've been cycling in wet or mucky conditions too. you can often hear it becoming 'chatty' if it starts to dry.
    2. when it's dirty!
    3. for out on the road - spare tubes, tyre levers, multitool, and a means of inflating. i have a mini-pump, some people prefer CO2 cartridges.
    4. unless you're training for a race, don't worry about watts. download strava to your smartphone and use that for a while to track your cycles and figure out if you want a cycle computer. segments are a concept in strava where someone 'marks out' a section of road - could be any length - so when you cycle that segment, your time along it is recorded and can be compared against a public leaderboard. you can set up private ones as well if you just want to track your own progress.
    cadence is simply how fast you pedal; especially starting out, you're probably better off picking an easier gear and pedalling faster for the same speed. it creates less strain on your knees, plus can help from tiring out too quickly.

    GCN have quite a few videos with tips on getting the best out of your bike/cycle.
    for example - one on washing your bike quickly:


    Thank very much

    Can I ask about gearing and when to change? So, I have two big rings and a 11 speed cassette. That’s 22 speed. When should I should I use the inner ring and when should I use the outer ring?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,255 ✭✭✭saccades


    brianomc wrote: »
    A friend of mine bought a secondhand mountain bike with UST wheels and tubeless tyres. He wants to go with tubes instead, the bike will never be used on trails or anything, just roads/cycleways.

    Has anyone any experience with this? Is it as easy as just sticking a tube and a clincher tyre on and away he goes? It's a 26" Mavic xm819 rim.


    819's are a lovely rim, they can be used with a tube as you describe.

    As proper UST rims you can fit proper UST tyres and not have to worry about the gloop.

    Only once have I fitted a tube with a 819 to get me home once.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,255 ✭✭✭saccades


    GeneralC wrote: »
    Thank very much

    Can I ask about gearing and when to change? So, I have two big rings and a 11 speed cassette. That’s 22 speed. When should I should I use the inner ring and when should I use the outer ring?

    It's less of an issue now with 2 rings at the front but try not to "cross chain" too much. The chain diagonal from front to back.

    Apart from that, show some mechanical sympathy by changing gear way before you are about to stall, gear changes should be really quick. So keep an eye on the road ahead, make sure you cannot hear the chain rubbing with the combo you have picked.


  • Registered Users Posts: 615 ✭✭✭mirrormatrix


    GeneralC wrote: »
    Is there anyone on here who can bike maintenance lessons to a beginner?

    I bought a lovely bike and I don't have the money to be brinfing to my local bike shop every time for basic maintenance work

    Try Rothar. They used to do a course for 40 or 50 quid that covers all the basics.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,374 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    occasionally the rediscovery centre in ballymun runs them too, but i think they're fairly basic.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,374 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i changed my back wheel last week - i made the huge upgrade from an aksium disc wheel to an aksium disc wheel; and the new one is much quieter while freewheeling. was wondering how much of that would be the design changes in the approx. three years between the wheel ages, and whether fresher grease in the new wheel could be damping the noise more?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,432 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    The Mavic hubs tend to need a good bit of cleaning, I take the freehub apart every couple of months and clean it down and relube. Best thing for lube in the freehub is gearbox oil. The difference is always noticeable


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