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Aritech Alarm Internet Dialler

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13567…12

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  • Options
    #62
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    cnijboer wrote: »
    hey Ozmo,

    You were right about the Arduino Uno, i changed the Serial1.xxx in Serial in the library files.
    This did the trick: the system works!! really super. I can connect to my panel online, a CD34 system.

    Great you have it working now - Thanks for the feedback :) - I'll update the code to auto-detect if its an UNO or Arduino being used so this renaming for UNO wont be necessary.

    “Roll it back”



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    #63
    degsie
    Registered Users Posts: 8,729 ✭✭✭degsie


    Bit late to the party here :). Would like to attempt this also. Is there a 1 stop shop to get all the required parts? I have an Aritech CS350.

    Great project!


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    #64
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Most of the suppliers in the sticky would be able to sort you out.


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    #65
    degsie
    Registered Users Posts: 8,729 ✭✭✭degsie


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Most of the suppliers in the sticky would be able to sort you out.

    Thanks. I guess you can remove Peats from that list ;)


  • Options
    #66
    usertech321
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭usertech321


    Great project OZMO. This a awesome!
    Yesterday I ordered all the hardware on ebay for which I will see what I exactly need for the build. I pasted it here as this will help others people to collect the hardware. This is what I ordered:

    - Leonardo R3 Pro Micro ATmega32U4 Board Arduino Compatible IDE + free USB cable
    - 50PCS 1N5819 5819 1A 40V SCHOTTKY DIODE GOOD QUALITY
    - Ethernet Shield W5100 For Arduino Main Board 2009 UNO ATMega 328 1280 MEGA2560
    - DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module LM2596 Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V
    - 65Pcs Male to Male Solderless Flexible Breadboard Jumper Cable Wires For Arduino
    - 10pcs x 74 HC32 Logic Grid Electrode Inverter Straight Pin DIP-14
    - Yellow Solderless Prototype Breadboard 170 SYB-170 Tie-points for Arduino

    Regarding the following I have doubts if I bought the correct hardware as this is not specified in your topic.:
    - 1N5819 5819 1A 40V SCHOTTKY DIODE GOOD QUALITY
    - 74 HC32 Logic Grid Electrode Inverter Straight Pin DIP-14

    Could you please confirm if I bought the right stuff? Looking forward to your response.


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    #67
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Wow, this project is JUST what I'm looking for!

    Thanks Ozmo for all your information. Saved me a world of trouble figuring all this out. I'm going to build something similar, just going to use a raspberry pi instead of an arduino I think (this will allow me to hook up a camera as well). I'm good with electronics and programming so I can work it out but you saved me so much work.

    I have a CD34 (I think CD3403) alarm with CD3008 keypad here, it was already installed when I moved in. I never used it before because I was worried of false alarms ringing for hours on end without me knowing about it (Some of the PIRs have visibility at windows and I'm afraid of people walking by triggering them).

    But a couple weeks ago the neighbours got broken into and it seems to be a trend in the area so I was looking for a way to monitor the system.

    One thing I was wondering: This CD34 box, is there a tamper switch by any chance? I have the documentation for the CD3008 panel (was in the house) which shows it has a tamper switch, but I have nothing for the alarm box itself. I'm afraid I'll trigger it when I open it up even when it's in disarmed state. I suppose I could just disconnect the mains + battery to silence it though. But I'm not sure if I could use it again without the engineer's code (not sure if they changed it).

    One more thing: What was the issue with the printer output? You said the voltages were all over the place? This was what I was hoping to use, I don't really want to replace the existing keypad, and connecting to the keypad itself is not an option due to its placement, I will need to connect to the alarm box itself.


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    #68
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Hi,
    If you enter engineer mode before removing the alarm panel cover it will not cause the panel tamper.

    There are two projects described in this thread.

    Both can be connected hidden inside the alarm box.

    1) monitor alarms using the printer port. Just make sure the panel has a printer port! This works well. The invertor chip I mentioned is to make the voltage levels compatible with the arduino.

    2) the keypad emulator becomes the panels second keypad with the display being the ethernet rather than an lcd. You can connect this anywhere on the 4wire keypad bus - connected to keypad is handy when testing but much better to connect to the other end of the cable (directly to the screw terminals inside the panel box).
    I also give a reduced part count version using just one diode if you dont mind not using the panel screwterminals- this must go inside the panel box.

    Use a good quality 12v to 5v like the one I suggest. Very cheap car ones can crash the arduino.

    I use arduino because it uses less power and is faster booting and im sure it can run for years without needing a reboot. I would be very interested in hearing your experience with the pi for this project. The communications baud rate is very unusual so you would need make sure you can do that with the pi.

    I really must split them up maybe as an instructable or something...

    Good luck let me know if there is anything i can help with.

    “Roll it back”



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    #69
    usertech321
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭usertech321


    Gekkeprutser: The engineer mode can be entered by using the "installateurscode" (Dutch wording). Don't mix this up with a usercode :-) or the siren will be triggered. What I always do is that I temporary remove the external siren to make sure nobody will notice a false alarm.

    Yesterday I received all the hardware. I started to install the basic Windows drivers and Arduino compiler software.

    @ozmo While compiling I receive many failures. I use a Lenonardo R3 board. I tested the board and the flash led (script) test works.

    I followed your instructions but something goes wrong :-( :
    - I downloaded the package as a zip from htt p s: / / github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleAritechArduinoRKP
    - Extracted the files in a C:\Users\----\Documents\arduino\libraries\CastleRKPfolder\CastleAritechArduinoRKP
    - Stored the ino file and libraries in the identical named folder
    - performed an import of the libraries
    - In your post from 09-05-2014, 21:08 you mention 10 files....
    - When I run the action to check the script it gets stuck.
    - I notice that all the libraries have been loaded automatically in the tabs when compiling.

    I get the following error:
    Arduino: 1.0.6 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Leonardo"
    ......................(a lot of logging without error's)
    SMTP.cpp:32: error: conversion from 'int' to 'String' is ambiguous
    C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/WString.h:61: note: candidates are: String::String(const __FlashStringHelper*)
    C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/WString.h:59: note: String::String(const char*)
    In details this refers to:
    SMTP.cpp:32: error: conversion from 'int' to 'String' is ambiguous: CODE COPY/PASTE: String msEmail=NULL;

    Why can I not compile the project using the files on Github? What am I doing wrong? I'm using a new install from the software. Please advice. Thanks in advance.


  • Options
    #70
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Thanks Ozmo and Usertech321!

    I was looking at it today but I don't think I have the engineers code :( There is a bunch of documentation on the alarm system but it only offers the default engineers code (0xxxx) which is not valid on my system, so it must have been changed by the installer (And anyway, it would have been stupid not to change it as it's printed in every user's manual)

    I notice the installer is still around, I can call them but I don't know if they'd be willing to give it to me, and they'd probably want to talk to the landlord. And I don't really want to bother him, he made it clear he just wants the rent money and no hassle unless it's absolutely necessary. That's also why I wanted to make as little modifications as possible, ideally I'd just like to monitor the system remotely so I know what's going on when I'm not home. I'm hoping to put the raspberry inside the alarm panel, from what I saw online there's loads of free space in there.

    Maybe I can let the backup battery run dead when I remove the mains - I notice it's very low anyway. I can't remove the alarm bell before opening the case as there is no exposed wiring.

    But the second keypad thing is also interesting, that way I could clear any false alarms remotely. But I think I'll start with the printer port. And you're right Ozmo, the raspberry does not work well with for 'bit banging' protocols, especially ones that require strict timing like you said this one does. Linux is just not a realtime OS. So I think I'll just go with the printer port at first.

    I think I'll just use a mains powered interface rather than a 12->5V downconverter, I see the Aritech can only supply 800mA@12V and that's pushing it for a raspberry with Ethernet, even with a very efficient DC-DC converter.

    And yes I'm Dutch Usertech321! You too?

    PS that 50 pound scope looks amazing, I might get one too


  • Options
    #71
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Oh - There is a problem with the latest version of Arduino IDE :(
    Arduino broke some code - even their sample code on the website gives the same errors. (That line thats giving an error - is correct according to the documentation here: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/ServerAvailable but even their sample code fails to compile...)


    I've just checked and my app compiles perfectly on Arduino IDE 1.0.5.
    So you could use that version...

    You can get 1.0.5 on their site here (you can have both versions installed to different folders without issue):
    http://arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases

    I will try get to convert those two lines to the new 1.0.6 and repost to GitHub, but it wont be tonight as I have the spare hardware packed away to test it.

    Leonardo hardware works fine.

    Those scopes are really good - I use mine a lot - I upgraded the firmware on it to BenF custom firmware - nicer UI and makes it more accurate.

    Oh - and you really need the engineer code to do either of these modifications. By default the printer Interface is OFF (Menu called "Event Print") - you need turn it on in the engineering menu. You need to be in Engineer Mode also to enter the "Install RKP" menu to get the panel to recognise the Arduino RemoteKeyPad when you have it hooked up.

    “Roll it back”



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  • Options
    #72
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    ozmo wrote: »
    Oh - and you really need the engineer code to do either of these modifications. By default the printer Interface is OFF (Menu called "Event Print") - you need turn it on in the engineering menu. You need to be in Engineer Mode also to enter the "Install RKP" menu to get the panel to recognise the Arduino RemoteKeyPad when you have it hooked up.

    Thanks, that's a shame :( I looked at the menus but I can't get into any of them. When I enter the code it just straight up arms/disarms. They did provide the programmer's manual and it says this is the case with certain flags so it sounds like intended behaviour. I can't even change the (incorrect) time/date.

    Thanks anyway, I'll see if I can find this out somewhere.


  • Options
    #73
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Just one more question: If I do trip the tamper alarm on the main unit, will it automatically clear itself on after I remove power and disconnect the battery? Or will it remain stuck in tamper mode even after a power down, until the engineer's code is entered?

    I was reading in the manual about this reset jumper that may or may not work depending on whether some code lock is enabled. So I'd like to try it out but I won't be able to do so without at least triggering the tamper once (or letting the battery run flat but I assume the results will be similar).


  • Options
    #74
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    GekkePrutser wrote: »
    I was reading in the manual about this reset jumper....

    Resetting the code will remove all programming - like the text names for each zone etc. That feature may be disabled as you say anyway.

    I think the user password should be enough to silence any tamper if you trigger one by removing the cover.
    Without the engineer code - the only option you may have would be to make your own internet dialler similiar to what maurice1 in post 56 suggests. You could use some of the code from my project for the webpage and emailing etc.


    Oh - and I reported the error with the Arduino Compiler not compiling and the nice guys at Arduino confirmed it was a bug in their latest Arduino Ethernet Libraries and they have fixed it on their side. I have not verified if there are other issues with my code and the latest ide - so best stick with the 1.0.5 compiler for this project until I get all my test panels set up so I can work again on it.

    “Roll it back”



  • Options
    #75
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    ozmo wrote: »
    Resetting the code will remove all programming - like the text names for each zone etc. That feature may be disabled as you say anyway.

    Thanks!! Luckily it wasn't engineer-locked. :D I removed the jumper and it was reset to the standard codes (and alarms blaring because I forgot to put some tape over the tamper spring before I turned it back on) :D

    I did indeed have to replace the programming which was nice anyway because there were a few things I always wanted to change. And it's good to know how it works. It wasn't hard to figure out anyway.

    But unfortunately, there was no printer option, so there goes that idea :( I might use your code then and run it on an arduino, or I'll look at the dialler option. But at least I've got full access to the unit now! I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again for all the help!


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    #76
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Sorry another question if you don't mind: I notice in one of your comments that the timing on the arduino is very critical. I was wondering what happens if the arduino stops communicating (correctly) on the panel bus. Would that cause a tamper alarm or cause the other panel to start beeping?

    I think I'm going with your remote keypad way, however I'm thinking of using a different arduino (trinket, attiny85-based) and then using that to interface to a raspberry pi. That way I can still use the raspberry (which I wanted to have in that area anyway), and I can also take advantage of the more powerful processing for better security (https, VPN etc). And of course the camera. Also, I just happen to have those parts in stock so I don't have to wait ;)

    So due to the raspberry not handling realtime tasks well I'm planning to offload that to the arduino, and just passing the i/o back/forth to the pi on a normal async rs232 bus. I think I'll use a logic level shifter for the TTL->12V part, BSS138-based.

    But because I have to modify the arduino code pretty heavily for this, I'm afraid what will happen if I make a mistake, my GF wouldn't be happy if some programming messup triggers the alarm while I'm away because it thinks an alarm panel is missing :)


  • Options
    #77
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    GekkePrutser wrote: »
    .. the timing on the arduino is very critical. I was wondering what happens if the arduino stops communicating (correctly) on the panel bus.

    The CD72 especially expects a response very quickly - so in the current version of the code the arduino receives the message and responds with as little processing inbetween -
    After it has responded, you have plenty time that you could send the message onto the RPi if you wish especially on the CD34 you have.

    Any Arduino should do - just make sure its runs same speed and has same memory as an uno or leonardo - the ones I've tested. Unos are really cheap now at about 6 euros from china.

    If the panel misses one message - it wont mind - but after several missed messages in a row (like you've removed the arduino) - yes - you do get a tamper fault if you are not in Engineer mode - and "Remote Keypad Error" gets displayed on the working remote. Entering the user code clears the tamper.


    Let me know how you get on with the RPi - I didn't use it because I wasn't sure of the relying on the SD card as a 24/7 server (link).

    I'm working on an Intel Galileo board at the moment - still testing how well it will work - its half Arduino half pc on one board - so you can run arduino and also run webservers (python/node.js) in its Linux half of the board at the same time - and both sides communicate with each other fairly easily. Plus its designed in Ireland :)
    Free book all about it here

    339343.jpg

    “Roll it back”



  • Options
    #78
    GekkePrutser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 673 ✭✭✭GekkePrutser


    Thanks again for the feedback, that sounds a bit worrying though :) I wish I just had a printer interface as all I really want to do is to monitor it so I know about false alarms etc. But I don't want it to cause one :P

    But I'll build it anyway, and get a sense of the reliability when I'm around.

    By the way, now that I think of it, perhaps I could just passively monitor the comms between the existing keypad and the panel? If I use a high impedance it shouldn't know I'm snooping. Did you ever try that? If I ever need to arm/disarm I can just use the key contact then.

    And yeah the SD card is definitely a liability on the pi, this is also a big reason to have an arduino in between with this kind of real-time stuff going on. Also you need to update it sometimes, and it won't be responding straight away when it comes on.

    The new B+ and raspberry 2 models are much better by the way because they don't have a friction-based SD card holder that bends the card over time. But still there is a good chance it will hang/reboot sometimes.

    And yes the Galileo is cool! I ordered one when they were giving them away but I didn't make the lottery :) Maybe I'll get one someday but they are kind of expensive.


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    #79
    usertech321
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭usertech321


    Ozmo (and others),

    Apologise for the long time not visiting this topic and not answering back on your response yet.
    The reason was that after some days I did not expected anyone more to answer on my request and also was not by mail informed of the response by the forum software itself.

    So I have been downloading version 1.05 and had some errors with compiling. Line 113 this time but I resolved this with some .... luck. It looks like that the .ino file (159 line) on github was different than the one I opened before with only 127 lines of code. Seems to be an older version of the code? It's ease to mix them up when you have a little of experience with compiling code. I also noticed that when I opened the libraries I get an error while compiling.
    I tried many times and decided to restarted the compiler and only opened the .ino file. This did to the trick! Very strange. Any explanation? In the log it's mentioning: "Using previously compiled" where it previously gave errors . Will this work?

    So now I have been able to compile and upload the code to the Arduino and to access the webserver with the keypad.
    Next step is to build all components and connect it to the Aritech system.

    Hoping the best. :-) Keep you updated, hope you will also do so.


  • Options
    #80
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Thats great you got it running ok. Nice one.

    The latest version of the Arduino compiler changed a lot of stuff-
    I keep meaning to get my test alarm out again and make it compatible- but its all on github, so if anyone wants to suggest a fix I can merge in the changes...

    For making the hardware- you have two choices- i had both working fine but currently im using the simple circuit of just the arduino, the 12v to 5v convertor, and the one diode only. Everything housed in the alarm panel box.

    “Roll it back”



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    #81
    usertech321
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭usertech321


    ozmo wrote: »
    Thats great you got it running ok. Nice one.

    The latest version of the Arduino compiler changed a lot of stuff-
    I keep meaning to get my test alarm out again and make it compatible- but its all on github, so if anyone wants to suggest a fix I can merge in the changes...

    For making the hardware- you have two choices- i had both working fine but currently im using the simple circuit of just the arduino, the 12v to 5v convertor, and the one diode only. Everything housed in the alarm panel box.

    I will implement your second solution and hope it will work. Thanks.


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    #82
    nicom
    Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭nicom


    Hello everyone,
    first of all thanks a lot @ozmo for this project, I appreciate very much your work!
    I'm trying to implement your second solution, with the 2 transistors.
    The arduino receives perfectly messages from the panel, but the transmission part is not working. Because of this, the configuration of a new keyboard doesn't work, but if I set the ID of the arduino with a used one (by a real keyboard) I can see the screen in the web page, but I can't use buttons.

    I have an arduino mega 2560 with ethernet shield.
    I have tested it on CD72 and CD95 panels, but the issue is the same.

    The code on github has some issues, like capital letters or the progmem instruction, I will suggest fixes on github!


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    #83
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Hi ozmo,

    I'm starting something similar with a HKC SW812 panel and Raspberry Pi but am just reading from the printer output for now using a USB to Serial converter and a perl script running on the Pi. Next step is to emulate a keypad just as you have done you project has given me plenty to think about I've a couple of Arduino clones to make use of :) Can I ask how you went about figuring out the baud rate and reverse engineered the comms protocol to the keypad?

    thanks,
    tnegun


  • Options
    #84
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    nicom wrote: »
    Hello everyone,
    first of all thanks a lot @ozmo for this project, I appreciate very much your work!
    I'm trying to implement your second solution, with the 2 transistors.
    The arduino receives perfectly messages from the panel, but the transmission part is not working.

    Update:
    Hi - I've made the changes asked for.


    * Its updated now to compile with the latest Arduino 1.63 (from arduino.cc)
    * Its tested with IE11, Chrome on Windows and on IPhone Safari and Chrome on my test CD34.
    * Easier installation - no library needed anymore - just place all the files in the one folder and open the .ino file (see the attached screenshot for what it will look like)
    * No hardware changes needed
    * Ive tested on Leonardo and UNO Arduinos - when running, both are functionally the same.
    - But Leonardo is best for debugging as there are 2 serial ports - one for panel connection and one for PC Arduino IDE connection and debugging.
    With UNO you need disconnect from Alarm panel while uploading software and debug logs are not currently possible.



    All the code is in GitHub (link)

    346847.png

    @nicom: Can you try the latest version of the software if you are having problems. Maybe also have another check of the wiring also - could be a bad transistor.

    @tnegun Re: HKC SW812 -
    Be interested in seeing how far you get with a RPi -
    To determine the baud rate I looked at the chip specs and tried all it supported - you can use this method to get close if you have a scope.

    ...

    “Roll it back”



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    #85
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Thanks Ozmo I've access to an old scope I'll see if I can figure anything out from it. I've an 812 Panel without Keypad though in Dublin/Kildare I'd happy donate if you want it?


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    #86
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    tnegun wrote: »
    Thanks Ozmo I've access to an old scope I'll see if I can figure anything out from it. I've an 812 Panel without Keypad though in Dublin/Kildare I'd happy donate if you want it?

    Cool thanks :) any donations of hardware most welcome - and Ill update the thread with the possibility of using this project with these other alarm panels.

    “Roll it back”



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    #87
    ozmo
    Registered Users Posts: 3,845 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Thanks tnegun for the HKC 812 SecureWatch panel !

    The HKC has a lot of similarities with the Aritech panel - but the protocol used is very different.

    I have made some progress on it: I was able to capture the panel comms and have figured out much of the protocol. I am currently reading the data off the line - next step is to get the hardware in place for an Arduino to send some messages to the panel and see if the Arduino can be accepted as a keypad.

    Hopefully this will mean the Aritech Internet Keypad Project can be made to support HKC as well.

    Ill leave my findings here (in the docs folder) and update as I figure out more.
    https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleHKCArduinoRKP

    :)

    “Roll it back”



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    #88
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Wow that was quick Ozmo I was thinking not having a keypad to go with the panel might slow you down! Let me know if I can contribute to testing/dev in any way.


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    #89
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,366 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    ozmo wrote: »
    Thanks tnegun for the HKC 812 SecureWatch panel !

    The HKC has a lot of similarities with the Aritech panel - but the protocol used is very different.

    I have made some progress on it: I was able to capture the panel comms and have figured out much of the protocol. I am currently reading the data off the line - next step is to get the hardware in place for an Arduino to send some messages to the panel and see if the Arduino can be accepted as a keypad.

    Hopefully this will mean the Aritech Internet Keypad Project can be made to support HKC as well.

    Ill leave my findings here (in the docs folder) and update as I figure out more.
    https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleHKCArduinoRKP

    :)

    Yea the hardware designs were done by the same guys as far as I know...

    How reliable is anyone finding the arduino Ethernet shield, always find them a bit hit and miss?


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    #90
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    I've never used one for more than a few days at a time but never had any issue once I set a static IP.


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    #91
    altor
    Registered Users Posts: 11,640 ✭✭✭✭altor


    If you need a keypad for the HKC just let me know as have a load floating around here :D

    www.altor.ie



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