Aritech Alarm Internet Dialler

ozmo

Hi - I'm attempting to building a mod for the Aritech Alarm -

Wanted one for some time now.

Just thought Id blog my progress here on the project - see if anyone here can think of anything Id be missing - or if anyone is interested might want to follow along....


My goal of what id initially like to achieve is

1. Have the house Email me if the alarm goes off.

2. Be able remote in - from my mobile phone and see a log of what happened - what zones caused the alarm etc.

3. Be able set/reset the alarm remotely.

4. Be able switch other things remotely - eg. lights.


The equipment Ill be using is:

1. Aritech alarm panel - because its what I have handy
(and they are pretty good with lots of ways of connecting to it).
- but it should be possible to use with other boards should I get my hands on a different one.

2. Arduino developer board + Ethernet shield


If there is interest out there - please "thumb up" this post and Ill continue to post my findings. If you think there is anything I'm missing - feel free to let me know.

KoolKid

Sounds interesting. What Aritech panel are you using?

ozmo

KoolKid wrote: »

Sounds interesting. What Aritech panel are you using?

I have a CD62 and a CD72 here Ill be using for testing - but I imagine it can be tweaked to work with many other panels.


Here's how I'm going to get it working...


Hardware needed
- going use an arduino board (Ill get it working on leonardo/uno models first)
- and an Arduino Ethernet shield



1. Alarm Logs
For reading what has happened on the panel - I'm going to get the Arduino to monitor the printer output of the panel -and set the panel to "Event Print"...

2. Monitoring for Alarm
Any mention of "Alarm" in the logs and I email the whole log to a set address..

(I could also I suppose have an alarm input on the Arduino for panels that don't have printers that can be triggered by an panel output)

Would anyone know what Panels have printer outputs?


The panel outputs we will be connecting to are all 0 to 5v - as is the arduino - so we can use the same ground and no relays are needed (so some power saving there).


Progress so far....


I've written code software which will monitor the printer output - and write it to the Arduino built in EEPROM (like flash memory this is protected if it looses power).
Aritech CD72 can output at 9600 baud - its an RS232 signal but not at the normal rs232 voltage levels - it only goes 0 to 5v - so thats handy for us but not perfect - the Arduino accepts whats called TTL level - which is 5V also, but is inverted - so we need one more chip to invert the signal before it gets to the Arduino (the yellow breadboard in the photos). But it works - Yay!!!











Arduino has enough EEProm memory to store 1000 characters of log files.

I've coded in a small Web server into the Arduino (web pages are rough versions at present) - so you can browse to the Alarm panel now and see the captured panel logs - you can also trigger outputs on the Arduino by pressing the buttons at the top.
I will be hooking these Arduino Outputs up to the alarm panel - which should allow me to Arm/Disarm the panel.

I think this should be possible using a "KEY ZONE" on the Aritech alarm panel - but i'm still researching this - appears to be unusual in that it sets or unsets the panel depending on the resistance or voltage on the zone input.





TODO:
Security (ie. password on the view logs and set/unset pages)
Get Arm Disarm working.
Better power supply (need to find a 5V power from the panel - using the PIR power supply right now and its about 13V which is more than I need)
Lots tidyup.

cerastes

I'd like to get into doing something with arduino, but I've no programming background at all and Im not too sure where Id start, this is an interesting practical use, I'll follow along for any updates, might pick something up.

cerastes

ozmo wrote: »

Hi - I'm attempting to building a mod for the Aritech Alarm -

Wanted one for some time now.

Just thought Id blog my progress here on the project - see if anyone here can think of anything Id be missing - or if anyone is interested might want to follow along....


My goal of what id initially like to achieve is

1. Have the house Email me if the alarm goes off.

2. Be able remote in - from my mobile phone and see a log of what happened - what zones caused the alarm etc.

3. Be able set/reset the alarm remotely.

4. Be able switch other things remotely - eg. lights.


The equipment Ill be using is:

1. Aritech alarm panel - because its what I have handy
(and they are pretty good with lots of ways of connecting to it).
- but it should be possible to use with other boards should I get my hands on a different one.

2. Arduino developer board + Ethernet shield


If there is interest out there - please "thumb up" this post and Ill continue to post my findings. If you think there is anything I'm missing - feel free to let me know.

Hows the project going? any updates, I was looking into Arduino today, looks like I might need to learn C programming language, but Im unsure if its absolutely necessary or if thats what Arduino uses (in the background?)

KoolKid

I'd be very interested in hearing any updates on this also.

ozmo

Sorry I haven't been posting more - Christmas then some hardware issues interfered-


I hope to do more over this weekend - since my last post I have got the following working


* it correctly captures all the panel log as it happens (it has enough space to store the last 12 or so events - Arm, disarm by who etc)
* When the Arduino sees an alarm log event from the panel - it sends the logs it has via email....

I plan on posting the source - maybe on GitHub - so no knowledge of coding should be necessary to create one of these for yourself
(coding knowledge only necessary if you would like modify the functionality or help by contributing new features or tweeks)


Ill keep you updated.

ozmo

Sooo -

Here you go - I have the code working and stable - You should be able upload it to an arduino now and try it out -


https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleInternetDialler/tree/master


Let me know how far you get with it.......


What it does:
1. It Allows you to browse to the Alarm Panel and Arm and Disarm
2. It will email you if an alarm goes off
3. There are custom inputs and outputs - so you can monitor and activate other things in the house - garage door up or down - water sensors - lights - heating etc.


So to Use:

You will need:
1. Arduino Leonardo or Clone (or Uno/Uno Clone or other 32K device should be ok)
About $10 on ebay
2. Ethernet Shield - or clone. Revision 2 (R2) are cheap and prefect.
About $10 on ebay
3. TTL to RS232 convertor (Search for "TTL Converter Module MAX3232CSE")
About $2 on ebay (link)


Connecting Up:
1. Loadup in the Arduino IDE - and edit the parts at the top of the file to suit your needs (panel details, your email address etc)
2. Setup a KeyZone - this requires two 4k7 resistors in series - Connect Pin 4 to the center between the two resistors.
3. Connect Pin 0 (RX1) to the TX of the printer port on the alarm panel
4. Connect Ethernet and power to Arduino

I will supply more detailed wiring instructions as I get it done- but most of it is very straightforward - just the connection to the printer port really needs me to detail more.


I will continue to work on it...
Todo List:
1) Keep testing
2) Add login page



Let me know any issues....

cerastes

I need to order some components and start playing around
May do that outside of my alarm
I dont have a printer output on my aritech and that seems to be necessary for this project?
Ive a zone set up as a key zone now, but Im not sure why you have 2* 4k7 resistors set up in series?

Ive even more basic questions regarding arduino, but I dont want to bog things down in my lack of knowledge about other aspects of how it works, at the moment anyway,I'll have to do some reading up seperately to doing projects I think, Arduino for dummies, here I come :pac:.

ozmo

cerastes wrote: »

I need to order some components and start playing around
May do that outside of my alarm
I dont have a printer output on my aritech and that seems to be necessary for this project?

Yes - get it all working on bench first -
Re Printer - yes, mine just had a printer output - capturing the printout is a nice easy way to monitor everything that happens.
If you have no printer you could use an Alarm Panel Output programmed as "Alarm Output" to trigger an email. The zones (Alarm Panel inputs) are under 5v - but the Outputs are about 13Volts so you will need use ideally a relay on the output or resistor to get the voltage down to under 5v. The Arduinos can only tolerate 5Volts max.

cerastes wrote: »

Ive a zone set up as a key zone now, but Im not sure why you have 2* 4k7 resistors set up in series?

Ive even more basic questions regarding arduino, but I dont want to bog things down in my lack of knowledge about other aspects of how it works, at the moment anyway,I'll have to do some reading up seperately to doing projects I think, Arduino for dummies, here I come :pac:.

The key zone wiring I got from the CD34 manual. Seems to be an exception - if the panel sees no resistor its a tamper, if it sees one resistor or two resistors in series tells the panel to arm or disarm - my Arduino code emulates the topmost switch (labeled key switch) in the diagram below...

Any questions on general arduino ask away and Ill try answer best I can

- and I'm posting here if anyone has ideas that can help with the project let me know....

Tazio

Wow ! I'm happy to have found this thread.. I currently have an sms digi-dialler on my system but wanted to go via web...

I ordered a Raspberry-Pi at start of week to start a project like this... but now after reading this thread might just follow on your steps.. Great write up..

cerastes

Tazio wrote: »

Wow ! I'm happy to have found this thread.. I currently have an sms digi-dialler on my system but wanted to go via web...

I ordered a Raspberry-Pi at start of week to start a project like this... but now after reading this thread might just follow on your steps.. Great write up..

Is rasberry pi similar/the same as arduino? Ive seen that name come up a few times.
Where did you buy your hardware items, Ive seen a few mentions of chinese/uk made boards.

Tazio

I bought from http://www.newit.co.uk/. .it was just under GBP60 for the Pi, case and power supply. Still awaiting to get it!

but now that I've seen this thread I might just tag along and follow this setup.. and use the Pi as a plaything for something else..

There is a Chinese version of these lite PCs too called a Cubieboard.. It looks pretty good too.

(SORRY OP for going off subject)

ozmo

cerastes wrote: »

Is rasberry pi similar/the same as arduino?
Where did you buy your hardware items, Ive seen a few mentions of chinese/uk made boards.

The RPI is different - much more powerful - but its a full pc and so you get all the issues that make it less stable when left running for long periods of time - I wanted something small I can put inside the existing alarm box, uses very little power and I can forget about it for months/years just like the alarm panel itself.
The Arduino has no operating system - you know only your code is running on it.

dx.com is great for Arduino and Arduino shields from $9 each if you can stand the long delivery times - otherwise Amazon uk is good also.

Tazio

ozmo wrote: »

The RPI is different - much more powerful - but its a full pc and so you get all the issues that make it less stable when left running for long periods of time

Exactly.. for this very reason I much prefer your approach and am very happy to have stumbled on this thread today. It's a great approach imo.

ozmo

Hi - While since I posted - here is an update since last time...

* UI is much nicer now - Optimised for IPhone and Chrome on PC.

* Has a login password.

* Hardware all soldered with plugs for easy disassembly. I used hot glue to create insulation plug tops.


Photos attached - and some info on them below...

1). Photo of the Wiring

- there is a new DC-DC board to step down the panels 14V output to 5V the Arduino needs - this is a cheap unit ($2 inc postage) which can do so very efficiently with minimal heat- you can power the Arduinos directly from 12V but its less efficient and the Arduino tends to get very hot - and 14V is way too much anyway.
- also, I tired using the TTL to RS232 module I mentioned in an earlier post- but it didn't work so well - voltages were too high for the panel - so I reverted to my initial solution but soldered the NotGate chip in line in the cable - it just inverts the 5V signal from the panel. The chip I used was one I had in my spares - its a big chip with 8 gates but I only needed use one (TX from Panel to RX on Arduino) - any logic inverter will be fine. I also connected up TX from Arduino to RX on Panel because the Alarm Panel supports Software handshake which I may look at some time if needed.

2). The Login screen - once logged in you stay logged in until you navigate from the page. I have implemented standard HTTP Authentication and slightly more secure HTTP Digest Authentication (Encryption).
The DIGEST Authentication uses some clever tricks to never the password,even in an encrypted form, over the wire, is more secure but its so complex it leaves very little space for the web pages.
The username and password should of course be set to something complex (in the config section at the top of the code).

3). Screenshot 3 is a sample of how it looks on the IPhone.
There are 4 sections
3.1 The Arm Panel - Green light for Armed
3.2 The Log - there is an option to have the newest at the top or bottom
3.3 Sensors - Can be linked to anything you wish to monitor - flood/frost/Light/door contacts.
3.4 Remote Device Control - Turn on/off things remotely - lights/heating/doors
3.5 Information about uptime etc.

4). Photo of how it looks in chrome on a pc - panels auto rearrange to suit the larger screen space.

cerastes

Looks very compact
beyond what know about it,

when you say "you can power the panel from 12v" do you mean the arduino board?

ozmo

cerastes wrote: »

Looks very compact
beyond what know about it,

when you say "you can power the panel from 12v" do you mean the arduino board?

Oh thanks - yeah - should read you can power the Arduino board from 5v to 12v(Ive updated the post - and added more information as well)
- the Alarm Panel outputs almost 14v so its a bit high - I use one of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LM2596-Step-down-Adjustable-Supply-Module/dp/B008RE3YOA

http://www.buyincoins.com/?r=product/index&pid=9004&page=8

(2 pounds on Amazon - or Buyincoins have them for about €1) - And set them to provide 5Volts.

You could also maybe locate the 5V supply on the Aritech alarm panel board (its used to power the CPU and other chips) and tap into that - but I choose not to and hook instead to the approved axillary power output terminals.

SebastienP

Hi Ozmo,

I read this thread and followed the progression you made with the connection between the aritech and arduino. Great work!
My alarm system is also made by Aritech (or Interlogix), but it is, I think, a newer board, the ATS1000A-IP-MM. I would like to make the same connection, but the only RS232 connector I can find is a jumper for programming the board (I assume) and of course the connector for the keypad (RS485), but it hasn't got a printer output.
Can you give me some advice or do you know if my board can be read out by Arduino like you did?

Thank you,

Sebastien

gctest50

SebastienP wrote: »

Hi Ozmo,

I read this thread and followed the progression you made with the connection between the aritech and arduino. Great work!
My alarm system is also made by Aritech (or Interlogix), but it is, I think, a newer board, the ATS1000A-IP-MM.........

might be easier ?

The ATS1000A-IP has an integrated 10/100mb ethernet connection supporting IP reporting to OH-NETREC receiver and U/D functionality to Titan.

ozmo

Happy with my arduino Aritech Internet dialler - but I understand it may be limited for those panels that don't have this printer port -

So I've been thinking of something that would give even more functionality -

Spent some time trying to figure it all out - but I've had some good success in emulating an Aritech Keypad using an Arduino.

So far - it connects to the ABCD 4 wire alarm panel bus and appears as a remote K keypad. You then browse to the Arduino using a webbrowser on a mobile phone and you use that as the display and keypad.

If I complete this - What this means is:

1) Its a second keypad you can access from at home or if desired anywhere in the world as if at home.
2) The panel can contact you if there is an alarm
3) Should work with almost all the Aritech Alarms that use this familiar keypad(*)
4) And plus - each Arduino Keypad is an 4 zones extender (for panels that supports it) - so you get to better split and name the zones you have or have the arduino say upstairs and you can reduce the amount of wires needed to run around the house and still get zone differentiation.


*(I aim to emulate the Aritech CD9038 and CD3008 keypads - as these are the ones I have and seem most popular & but maybe more if they support the same protocol).
to connect to the panels CS350 CD34, CD62, CD91 and maybe others like the ATS1000A-IP-MM as long as they can accept one of those 2 keypads)


Complete and todo:

1. Complete - I have the protocol figured out - can read what the panel is sending on the bus and know when its the Arduinos turn to talk - and can emulate most functions of the keypad display - still a few to do like cursors and flashing characters etc.
Currently emulating a CD3008 keypad (no extra zones implemented yet - todo.).

2. Complete - Phone connects to the Arduino and receives the current display for that keypad

Todo: implement nice graphical display - make the UI look like a keypad - emulate leds.
Todo: Improve the hardware needed to go up from the 5V Arduino system to 14V the alarm uses - needs be simplify.
Todo: Implement the rest of the display commands (mostly blinking and editing stuff)
Todo: re-implement sending emails (code from previous project)


Going be really tight fit to get it to fit all in an Arduino... this and the 5v to 12v electronics interface rework are the tricky things for me to look at right now...



A CD3008 keypad

SebastienP

@gctest50: though the board has usb/ethernet connectors there is no 'simple' way to communicate with the board as far as I know. I haven't got any additional software like Netrec or Titan and there's still no iPhone app. The Android app doesn't work correct (I can login but can't activate the alarm or read out its status).
@ozmo: it sounds really promising- how did you figure out the protocol??

ozmo

SebastienP wrote: »

@ozmo: it sounds really promising- how did you figure out the protocol??

Just had to find a use for my new (50 euro) digital scope

ARM DSO Nano DS0201 Pocket-Sized Portable Digital Oscilloscope With 2.8''LCD

cerastes

ozmo wrote: »

Just had to find a use for my new (50 euro) digital scope

ARM DSO Nano DS0201 Pocket-Sized Portable Digital Oscilloscope With 2.8''LCD

I didnt know you could get stuff like that, interesting device.

ozmo

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.



(This is an animated gif video loop - it may not play on all browsers...)

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

Evolution1

ozmo wrote: »

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.



(This is an animated gif video loop - it may not play on all browsers...)

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

I want one !

altor

ozmo wrote: »

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.



(This is an animated gif video loop - it may not play on all browsers...)

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

That my friend is brilliant, well done for all your hard work

cerastes

ozmo wrote: »

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.



(This is an animated gif video loop - it may not play on all browsers...)

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

looks good, very good, the business.
this one, I've got to do

well done

cerastes

ozmo wrote: »

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.



(This is an animated gif video loop - it may not play on all browsers...)

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

ozmo wrote: »

Progress update - I now have a Arduino that pretends to be a Aritech Keypad

..so just the normal 4 keypad wires needed to connect it to the alarm panel and you install it like a regular keypad.

I've coded a small webserver into the Arduino as well which allows you to browse to this new keypad - so you can set/unset, review logs - or any other keypad function including engineer menus from any browser or phone.

Also - the Arduino watches out for the Warning Led messages and sends an email to your phone if there is an alarm condition.

This is my test alarm setup - so all default passwords - you can see arming- triggering an alarm, disarming and entering engineer mode.

Requires: An Arduino, ethernet shield, the code, and you need make a small interface board I will post a how-to for anyone interested in making one.

I'm going to start ordering the parts needed, any information on the how to? or the code, I had a look at the previous github link and there wasn't anything different there.
Also, few questions
Reading back over your posts, do I need to download github to run the code? I haven't read that section in detail or how to do that.

Im at the stage of ordering and then assemble when the parts arrive.

ozmo wrote: »

So far - it connects to the ABCD 4 wire alarm panel bus and appears as a remote K keypad. You then browse to the Arduino using a webbrowser on a mobile phone and you use that as the display and keypad.

If I complete this - What this means is:

1) Its a second keypad you can access from at home or if desired anywhere in the world as if at home.
2) The panel can contact you if there is an alarm
3) Should work with almost all the Aritech Alarms that use this familiar keypad(*)
4) And plus - each Arduino Keypad is an 4 zones extender (for panels that supports it) - so you get to better split and name the zones you have or have the arduino say upstairs and you can reduce the amount of wires needed to run around the house and still get zone differentiation.

I also noticed this when reading back over this post,
I'm guessing my panel might not support the "4 zone extender" you mention. I've a CS350. Not sure what you mean by zone differentiation? I access my zones via the keypad using the quick set codes and by browsing the keypad functions, it looks like you have cracked the complete range of keypad menu options, full engineer menu? I was wondering if id be able to inhibit zones, which I do occasionally.

I was thinking, put this in a box and beside my alarm panel downstairs, and then run a network cable for the arduino up to my router/modem thats in the attic.

Thanks in advance, interested in doing this for a number of reasons, mostly because it looks like an interesting project and Ive been wanting to try something with arduino and putting it into a practical use would be a bonus.

ozmo

Thanks for all the feedback - Ive been trying hard to reduce the amount of electronics
that is needed to interface the Arduino to the Aritech Alarm panel - and I have
two options for people to choose from

i will clarify this all in a how-to guide with photos over the weekend but this is the overview-

1) Using an interface board to bump the Arduino from 5v up to 12v so it connect to the Aritech keypad 4 wire cable. just like a keypad.
Details next post - it requires 2 transistors and supporting components


-or-

2) Direct to panel
This is easiest - but requires soldering 2 wires to the Aritech main board. Its very efficient and reliable
though. Only downside is some may not like soldering direct to the panel.
If you find it tricky to solder to the Pins (they are a little tight) solder the back of the panel or
you can look along the track route to find an easier spot to solder.on my test cd34 I found through hole points on the pcb i could plug into without soldering.


Hardware Requirements
1 Arduino
1 Network shield
1 DC-DC power supply to power Arduino (you other arduino power supply)
1 Diode (any standard diode - but preferably a schottky diode if you are buying one )

And thats it

Software Requirements:
The source from GitHub
Currently Atmel Studio v6.1 (free) - I'll do an Arduino IDE version also.
Chrome/Iphone etc



With this method you need solder two wires to Pin 17 and Pin 18 of the largest chip
named 78C17 on the panel and connect them to the Arduino Pins 0 and 1 - the
Pin 1 connection to the alarm panel must have a diode.

1. connect Arduino Pin 0 (RX) direct to 78C1x's Pin 17
2. connect Arduino Pin 1 (TX) to the diode and then to Pin 18 of the 78C1x chip
the striped end(cathode) of the diode goes to the arduino - the nonstriped to the chip.
3. Get power to the Arduino - Im using the DC-DC converter module I mentioned above ($2)
that converts from the panels 12v (marked A on the keypad 4 wire output)
to 5v with no extra heat. do not try tap into the 5v that is on the panel -the arduino could draw more than the panel has allowed for.

If you power from a mains powered usb adapter - you will need make sure the Arduino GND is connected to the panel ground (Marked as B on the 4 wire Keypad cable or any other GND is good)

The Chip is all 5V - as is the Arduino - so they are perfectly compatible,


Some later panels are surface mount (the chip is very small and square) I dont have one of these but it may be possible find places to solder too. If you look up the pinout of the PD78C17GF chip - the pin names in the datasheet
are "PC0/TXD" and "PC1/RXD"



Note:
1) To install a keypad - you will need the engineer password - unless you put this in
place of an existing keypad.

2) Some solder braid may be useful to have on hand if you are not used to soldering and
apply too much solder.

3) Of course make sure everything is powered off while working on it - for your safety as well as your alarm
If you are unsure - ask - or get someone to do it who is familiar with soldering.

4)As always with these projects - I can help out where I can - Ive tried all this on the panels I own here - but I'm not responsible for any damage.


I will post the source for this second project when i convert it back to arduino ide(hopefully by tomorrow)- currently its compiling in Atmel Studio - which is a far better environment but not so user friendly as the normal arduino app.
more details to follow...

ozmo

Sorry not posting earlier - but experienced some compatibility issues with my installed alarm when I tried it - seems the CD72 requires a response to messages very quickly - so debugging in the Arduino code must be turned off for this panel (define QUIET set to 1 in the code).

All sorted now - and its running really well.



So as promised - Version 1 of the code needed:

https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleAritechArduinoRKP


NOTE: To get the code - it is customary to press the *FORK* button on Github - this is like a subscribe to thread - and you will be notified when I update the code.
You do not need install any GitHub program to download the code - but there are ones if you wish.

There are two folders
- 1) Library files - they all go in the Arduino library folder and
- 2) and a .ino Arduino project file that must reside in a folder of the same name of the file - this one you open in Arduino IDE.



There is a config file in the project config.h - this is where you set your IP address's and email address.

I will update the project code every while - so be sure to Fork rather than just download.

Usage:
Compile and Upload to to Arduino - connect to panel.
Browse to the IP address: Check the config for the address setting - this version Ive defaulted it to "http://192.168.1.205:8383"

Security: Well theres the Port (8383) that you would need guess - then there is the Panel Pin number (6 digits) and you should also enable
Panel Tamper - that will lock you out for a minute after 10 or so bad guesses.

ozmo

So - I mentioned there are two ways -

here is the slightly more complex to make method - it requires a two transistor circuit board to be made up - but once done you can just plug it into the ABCD keypad terminals like a regular keypad.





- it took a lot of trial and error to make it as simplified as this... You would of course need to solder it up on a board to make a permanent installation of it..
But here is what it looks like when made up on a messy but working prototype breadboard.

ozmo

Annnd - the easy way -

Parts needed are just the One Diode and a couple wires - no transistors.

The CS350/CD34 uses pins(17&18) - CD72/92 uses different pins (20 & 21)


Some Important NOTEs: (for the less experienced) The Chip may be upside down on some boards - so count from the edge left of the one with the notch. And watch out for solder going where it shouldn't. Dont do it with the panel powered on.


Here is a working CD72 setup:



You may be able see the diode there - and the DC-DC 12v to 5v converter - the soldering is done at the back to keep it neat.


Here are the Connections


And the CD72 Connections



Good luck - let me know how any of you get on who try it...

mrkayak

Hello Ozmo,

I've been following this with great interest, and I hope to implement this at home
on my Aritech CS350 alarm panel.

I think I'll go for your second option (the more difficult one), because the alarm panel is
in use under the stairs. And I guess I would need to disconnect all of the connections
(the bell, the sensors, the power, etc.). And then remove the board to solder the two wires.

The other option, to just connect with ABCD as if it's another remote keypad - this is
a much better option for me I think. I want to keep the existing keypad in use and in-situ,
so this will be sort of 'in parallel'.

So, I will try to make that breadboard 2-transistor circuit in your picture.
I found 2N2222A-2N2222 on ebay, I guess they are ok for this purpose?

3-x-2N2222A-2N2222-NPN-Transistor-0-8A-40V-TO-18

Thanks.
Best regards,

ozmo

mrkayak wrote: »

Hello Ozmo,
I think I'll go for your second option (the more difficult one), because the alarm panel is in use under the stairs. this is a much better option for me I think....
So, I will try to make that breadboard 2-transistor circuit in your picture.
I found 2N2222A-2N2222 on ebay, I guess they are ok for this purpose?

3-x-2N2222A-2N2222-NPN-Transistor-0-8A-40V-TO-18

Thats them - but Pretty much any NPN transistor will be fine for this application - the resistors are chosen to keep the power requirements to a minimum.

I've tried BC109 and 2N2369 - and both work perfectly and can be got from Maplins or Radionics really cheaply - a few cents.

The resistors are very important to get the right values though - but I've tried to use as many of the same values to make easy buying - you can buy a pack with a selection of resistors works out better than buying singularly.

Plus you would be surprised the amount of great components you can salvage from an old PC Power Supply - just google the part numbers.
(Powerful Mosfets and Triacs are especially good finds - can do lots of great stuff with these like relay-less remote Arduino controlled mains light dimmers etc. - but thats for another thread )

mrkayak

ok thanks.

The transistors on ebay were 3 for a dollar (free delivery), so that was good enough for me!
I have a pack of mixed value resistors, so hopefully will have ones of the required values.

You mentioned somewhere earlier in your parts list, a TTL to RS-232 converter for the Arduino.
Is that still required for this option..? (I don't see it mentioned anywhere, or in any of the pictures).

It looks like the breadboard 2-transistor option provides the interface from the
Arduino TX/RX to the Panel Remote Keypad ABCD. So, I guess the TTL to RS-232 converter
is not required for this option?

I've ordered everything else (incl 12V to 5V DC converter to power Arduino from the 12V alarm panel),
so just need to confirm this one.

Thanks.


(btw, here's your original parts list)

You will need:
1. Arduino Leonardo or Clone (or Uno/Uno Clone or other 32K device should be ok)
About $10 on ebay
2. Ethernet Shield - or clone. Revision 2 (R2) are cheap and prefect.
About $10 on ebay
3. TTL to RS232 convertor (Search for "TTL Converter Module MAX3232CSE")
About $2 on ebay (link)

p.s. Have you considered a wireless connection for this Arduino application? For me, at least I think it would be handier
than having to run a cat-5 cable from my router to under the stairs where the alarm panel is located. I saw a post where
a cheap router (TL-WR702N, around usd25) can be hacked to make a wireless shield to provide a wifi
connection for the arduino

cerastes

ozmo wrote: »

So - I mentioned there are two ways -

here is the slightly more complex to make method - it requires a two transistor circuit board to be made up - but once done you can just plug it into the ABCD keypad terminals like a regular keypad.





- it took a lot of trial and error to make it as simplified as this... You would of course need to solder it up on a board to make a permanent installation of it..
But here is what it looks like when made up on a messy but working prototype breadboard.

Couple of questions, While I have seen circuits like this before, and I should know more, I have very limited experience building them, (although that looks straightforward) even though I have seen them, I should know and understand more about the design.
So these probably seem like simple obvious things, few questions.

I can see A, C and D on the circuit, I'm assuming that B (common GND) is the output of the transistor emitters and the resistor R7 (all the down arrows in the circuits).

The 5v supply, its just a tap off from the 12v in the second circuit and the horizontal line where it says (slightly less than 5v) is that just where the the 5v power supply is? from my understanding, where it taps off after R6 (10k) wouldn't divide the voltage so the PS must be on the horizontal line (just want to confirm as Im not sure?).

Could you even use two resistors in parallel at that point to get the voltage division required for 5v and tap off from that? instead of a power supply? would that work? maybe it just complicates things, Im half thinking it might not work for some reason as Im not sure if the voltage would only be at the resistor and not just after it.

Probably not lastly,
The circuit diagrams shows 6 resistors R1-7 (less R4), 4* 4.7k, 1*22k, 1*10k and. But the working example only has 5 resistors (I think there is one hidden in the top left corner of the breadboard beside the transistor and red and black connections. On checking, the 3 blue are 4.7k I think, the other visible one is 10k? there seems to be a resistor missing? Is it somewhere else physically in this example? (ie at the arduino board?)
edit, is the 22k resistor missing? to the panel?
Im sure this is my error in misreading the yellow breadboard or how the two diagrams of the circuits overlap on the breadboard, but the breadboard looks different to the circuit diagrams? the 10k resistor seems to be interconnected with the 3 4.7k resistors?. I know I should just go by the circuit diagrams, but I was trying to follow it on the breadboard just to see.

lastly, is there some size or type of diode to use?? if doing the other circuit?

ozmo

cerastes wrote: »

Couple of questions
I can see A, C and D on the circuit, I'm assuming that B (common GND) is the output of the transistor emitters and the resistor R7 (all the down arrows in the circuits).

Correct, Yes

cerastes wrote: »

The 5v supply, its just a tap off from the 12v in the second circuit and the horizontal line where it says (slightly less than 5v) is that just where the the 5v power supply is?

I thought it would be easiest to power the whole circuit off 12v rather than have two power supplies. That text is just comment label that if you measure it it should be 5v at that point.

cerastes wrote: »

Could you even use two resistors in parallel at that point to get the voltage division required for 5v and tap off from that? instead of a power supply? would that work?

As you do say - not at that point - as when Q2 switches on - the voltage level at that point (ArdRx) will go to 0v.

But it would be possible to create a second one in parallel as you suggest - however the resistors could get very hot as they would have to dump 7 volts of the 12volts out as heat. Same problem with the cheap 7805(or equivalent) chip built into the arduino - wastes power - The DC-DC board is great and doesnt have this problem.

But - do not power the Arduino via the 5v And plug in the USB at the same time. Dont think that would be so good for the Arduino.

cerastes wrote: »

The circuit diagrams shows 6 resistors R1-7 (less R4), 4* 4.7k, 1*22k, 1*10k there seems to be a resistor missing?
I know I should just go by the circuit diagrams, but I was trying to follow it on the breadboard just to see.

Oh - well spotted - R7 has gone awol since I removed it from the panel - consider the breadboard photo for illustration only - it should be much neater - I had planned to soldering it up on this cool shield - the circuit is the guide to follow.

cerastes wrote: »

lastly, is there some size or type of diode to use?? if doing the other circuit?

Standard diode IN4002 is fine.



Also - about R4 not being required in the circuit - R4 was the resistance of the Alarm Panel in my simulations - its not something you add to the circuit but the circuit has to cope with it once its connected up.

ozmo

mrkayak wrote: »

Is that [TTL to RS-232 converter] still required for this option..? (I don't see it mentioned anywhere, or in any of the pictures).

Thanks - that part I was hoping to use for the printer interface circuit - but it didn't make the final cut (Voltages it output were all over the place) - So you are correct, not using it.

mrkayak wrote: »

p.s. Have you considered a wireless shield for this Arduino application?

Yes - that would be great alright. I dont have an Arduino wifi shield to test with - but if anyone has one they would like to donate to the project- I can update the code and electronics to support it....

ozmo

Updated code in Github -

https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleAritechArduinoRKP

Moved all configuration to the main page - so easier to edit stuff like IP's and Email address etc from the standard Arduino IDE - and also tweeked it to run faster.
The yellow light on the Arduino will now flicker if its sending correctly (each message it sends to the panel)- so you will know if its working by looking at it.

The CD72 and CD34 have very slightly different protocol - code is fixed now so it works well and supports both.

I also managed to pickup a CD91 to test - and the diode trick does Not work with this panel - you need make the ABCD interface.

About the Quick set buttons - I don't have one of these keypads to test and see what codes it sends.
The two keypads I have are like the photo I posted above and the down-down and up-up "show open zones" and "inhibits menu" on works ok.


Also - I don't have a real CS350 to test - but I believe its basically an updated CD34 - so should work - I'm interested in knowing how you get on....

mrkayak

I've ordered all the parts last week.. so it will be at least another few weeks before I can try this and give you any feedback

mrkayak

ok, I've got all the bits an pieces ... so hopefully will have a go at making this over the next few days

mrkayak

ok, I"ve made the breadboard circuit (ABCD) keypad.

Then I downloaded SW from Git.
Got compile error, due to missing sha1, base64.

So, I downloaded these and added them to the library.
Got past those errors, but now getting compile errors:


Any ideas? I guess it's the wrong sha1.cpp or sha1.h

(sorry I can't paste anything, since I'm a new user)

ozmo

Its probably you havnt the board selected in the IDE - but follow this and check off everything.


>ok, I"ve made the breadboard circuit (ABCD) keypad.
grand - double check the wires before connecting up - should be 5volts max going to the arduino if you measure it before you connect it.

>I downloaded SW from Git.
> Added them to the library.

ok - you should put all the library files into a folder - 9 files.

<Arduino IDE>\libraries\CastleRKP\
  Config.h
  Log.cpp            Log.h
  RKP.cpp            RKP.h
  SMTP.cpp          MTP.h
  WebSocket.cpp  WebSocket.h

The 10th file goes where you arduino projects go - it Must be in a directory called the same as the .ino file.
There Must be none of the library files in here.

C:\Projects\Arduino\MyCode\CastleAritechArduinoRKP
        CastleAritechArduinoRKP.ino

*To pick up the library you must close and restart Arduino IDE


*Then double click on the
CastleAritechArduinoRKP.ino
to launch the Arduino IDE


Choose the board you purchased - I use Leonardo.

and press the Check code (tick) button....

If there is an error - just past the text of the error - bit in red - just the error will be enough.

mrkayak

ok, I downloaded WebService library and included that.
Now everything compiles and uploads without any errors.

I can bring up the arduino web server at [my ip]:8383

So, looking good so far.

Next I need to connect my breadboard circuit to my aritech alarm panel.

That's a bit tricky as the router (for the ethernet connection) is quite far
away from the alarm panel.

So, I guess connect arduino to the router, and then run a 6-core alarm
cable from arduino to the alarm panel.
4 wires for the ABCD, and the other 2 to power the arduino.

Thanks.

ozmo

mrkayak wrote: »

So, I guess connect arduino to the router, and then run a 6-core alarm
cable

4 wires are fine - A is 12v and B is ground

edit: oh unless you are putting the 5v in the panel and running 5v with the 4 wires? Usually best to have the 5v supply wires short if possible - more stable.

Just Remember - really important or the arduino might not like it - mentioned it already - don't power with 5v And plug in a USB plug at the same time!
You can have power going to 9v(sometimes labeled VIn) and be usb connected but not the 5v and usb connected.

mrkayak

so, I have six wires from my breadboard:
ABCD, ARD-TX, ARD-RX

My router is around 14 meter cable-run from the alarm panel.
So, either I run an ethernet cable (cat-5) to the alarm panel, and locate the arduino beside the alarm panel.

Or, I have the arduino at the router, and then run the ABCD wires to the alarm panel.

I guess I can take +12V, and 0V from the ABCD (on the breadboard) and connect them to the input of
the DC converter. Then connect the output of the DC converter to the +5V and 0V to power the arduino.

In this case the cable-run for my "remote keypad" would be 14 meters, but the 5v connection to
power the arduino would be short.

Does that make sense?

BTW, 15 meters of 4-core alarm cable delivered is around 12 euro (ebay).
For around 17 euro, I can get a TL-WR702N and make a homemade wireless shield for the arduino.

So, I think that sounds like the best option.
The cable run from router to alarm panel is across the front hallway ... so it would have to go
up and down and around two door frames. I could do it reasonably neat, but for a few euros more
the wireless option might be the better choice.

Any comments welcome!

Thanks.

ozmo

mrkayak wrote: »

In this case the cable-run for my "remote keypad" would be 14 meters, but the 5v connection to
power the arduino would be short.

I have ethernet to the alarm box - and the arduino and power are all inside the existing alarm cabinet. I was lucky and was able hide the ethernet cables in the wall.





Interesting idea with the wifi unit - I see from articles its 5v powered so you could power it from the same supply rather than require more power sockets. Maybe Arduino Wifi parts will come down in price eventually.


Maybe something could be done with 2 of these (1 euro each) and a second arduino. Good bit of coding required though.
link to NRF24L01 Wireless Module
Alarm Panel ---> arduino--> NRF24L01 ---(wireless)----> NRF24L01 -->arduino --> Ethernet card --> Router ??

mrkayak

looking at manual for aritech cs350, each remote keypad has a dip switch
to set the ID of the keypad. One keypad has to have ID1 (all 4 switches on DIP = off)
Did you have any issue adding the Arduino ABCD 'keypad', since it has
no dip switch to set the ID?

Did you keep your original keypad connected, and add the Arduino keypad
as a second keypad?

I'm planning to connect the 4 wires from my Arduino keypad
ABCD to 12,13,14,15 on the Aritech panel.
My existing keypad (CD3008) is wired to the same 12,13,14,15.

Acc to the manual they can be connected (upto 4) in a star,
or multi drop (connected in parallel).

Also, it seems you need to select the 'install remote' option on the screen..
the display shows the connected keypad(s), and you confirm the new one.

You didn't mention any of this in your notes..
I wonder is that because your alarm panel and keypad are much different..?

thanks

also, just for testing I'm planning to connect like this:

Breadboard alarm Panel
A, B, C,D -> 12,13,14,15

Breadboard Arduino
Ard-Tx, Ard-Rx -> Tx, Rx

Arduino
Ethernet -> router
USB -> laptop (this will also power the arduino)

This is just to make sure everything is working ok.
I plan to use the DC converter to power the arduino from
the alarm panel - but not til I get everything up and running
and working correctly first.

Thanks.

ozmo

mrkayak wrote: »

.

Yes - Exactly as you say - I just mentioned you install the keypad as normal - maybe should have mentioned this involves as you say using the "Install RKP" menu. You can tap into the 4 wires anywhere - panel or at an existing RKP. I could update the code readme with any issues you come across.

The ID is set in the config file - its set to be the Second RKP - but change it as needed.


PM me a photo or url to the breadboard you made up and I can visually check it if you like. Before connecting to Arduino check voltages going to Arduino RX and TX - should be under 5v.


Just a note to stop annoying the Neighbours - if the Alarm Panel is Disarmed - and you remove or reset the Arduino - you will get an RKP Fault as the panel notices the RKP has disappeared and the sirens will sound - you can avoid the Alarm going off by entering anywhere in the Engineer menus while you disconnect/reset/recompile on the Arduino. To remove the Arduino permanently just do the Install RKP thing with no Arduino present.

(You can also electrically disable the sirens or mess with the outputs menu - but the above is easier)

mrkayak

ok, I've connected breadboard ABCD to the terminals on my existing keypad
(I entered engineer mode before removing front cover of keypad)

As soon as I connect my one, the existing keypad resets and then just displays:
1.4 -=- 1994 (also the amber led (!) lights up on the keypad)

pressing any combination of buttons on the keypad doesn't seem to do anything.
Until I disconnect, and then the keypad goes back to normal again.

Arduino is up and running, and I can browse to [my ip]:8383.
though the keys aren't echoed on the screen when I press them, so I guess
the communication between Arduino and panel is not right somewhere.

I tried reboot/restart/reload Arduino, but doesn't seem to make any difference.

I noticed in the code (RKP.cpp)
mdevID=-1;

Should this be a number for the ID of the keypad?
The existing one is off-off-off-off

Also, is it necessary to to define the new keypad in the engineering menu *before* connecting it?

Thanks