Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Aritech Alarm Internet Dialler

Options
167891012»

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo



    Hi - The HKC's use only 3 wires - +5V, GND - the A and B (receive/transmit) are actually the same - both receive and transmit are done on the one wire.

    So you only need connect up one to the circuit - see image

    https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleHKCArduinoESP32/raw/main/Docs/HKCPinOut.JPG?raw=true

    (The Aritechs use and need all 4 wires)

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 980 ✭✭✭Kenny Powers


    In the code for the esp32 it refers to rx16 and tx27 do I just change these to 6 & 7 for the D1 32 board?


    On the proto shield layout pins 4&3 are connected to resistors but don't appear to be connected to anything else, can we just leave these out?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo




    Oh - Good question - those resistors were for optional feedback leds that show good communication with the panel... leave out or fit leds as in the image below if you like lots of flashing lights (I do) - preferably different colours - Ill update the docs online.

    16 and 27 I think are correct though - the Pins on the ESP D1 32 dont match the Arduino UNO layout and the numbers printed on the board- see eg.

    https://bpb-ap-se2.wpmucdn.com/blogs.auckland.ac.nz/dist/9/698/files/2021/08/2_Pinout_D1_R32.png


    also - this is the display module you can use (about 3 euros) - again optional - it displays some feedback about wifi status. It clips onto pins gnd/18/19/23 partially covering the first transistor.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005281308478.html

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 980 ✭✭✭Kenny Powers


    Thanks a mill for that, I think I need glasses I couldn't see 16 & 27 just 6 & 7 but as per your attachment sure enough they are 16&27



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Hello, was this ever resolved? I am having the same error messages. Kind regards from the Netherlands, Maurice



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Those changes the compiler output posted above look fine and easy to change - they seem to have simplified the spelling on some constants the code needs - i’ll update the git code tomorrow.

    Dunno why they keep changing the libraries. Small things like renaming stuff of course is going to break existing code.

    if you want you can change the compiler to compile with an earlier Arduino library also. It should compile with no errors.

    Also look into “Retrobrighting” for making old yellowed plastics white again. Basically use hair products (peroxide) and uv light (or sunlight). The retro gaming community use them all the time for old consoles. Even leaving out for several in sunlight can help…

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ok, thank you! I'll see if I get it running with older libraries, although I have no idea yet how to do that :). I am a newby with these things, but I think it is a cool project, and it would be awesome if I get it up and running. I'll report back if I make some progress.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ok, I can compile without errors now. I used the suggested variables. I can also flash the code to the Wemos D1 R32 board (first I could not, turned out to be an issue with the micro usb cable). I uncommented the DEBUG_LOG line in Config.h (because nothing was happening in the Serial Monitor.

    I now constantly get the following lines:

    21:26:28.044 -> End EtherInit
    21:26:28.520 -> Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Wifi Down - Start Wifi
    21:26:34.114 -> End EtherInit
    21:26:34.614 -> Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Wifi Down - Start Wifi
    21:26:40.177 -> End EtherInit
    21:26:40.675 -> Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Connecting..Wifi Down - Start Wifi
    21:26:46.198 -> End EtherInit
    

    So I think it cannot find or connect to my Wifi network. I've put the correct credentials in the config.h file. So, some progress but still a long way to go :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ok. Can connect to a different Wifi. The webserver is also running :). But it is not hooked up to the Alarm System yet. I still have an issue with my oLED screen: it remains black.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Did you make up the circuit board? Post a clear zoomed in photo of both sides and we can check the wiring…

    “Roll it back”



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Yes, I soldered the circuit. But should the oLED not also work without the extra circuit, if I just hook up GND, VCC, SCK and SDA to 4 pins on the WEMOS?

    Also, the Prototype Shield has 8 pins on the right with the plastic casing, whereas the underlying WEMOS has 10 pins: the 2 extra being the SCL and SDA. So from your picture on Git I can not clearly see where the oLED is connected to.

    I probably misunderstand something :)

    Directly to the WEMOS:


    The soldered circuit:





  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Thanks for the feedback - Il update docs with that

    I've update the code to support the latest ESP32 SDK - it should compile on latest again (v2.0.14) without issue.

    Your board looks good! - This is my board, it seems very close. I know I have 1 extra resistor - ignore that - It was for testing purposes.

    - the Oled is connected to GND,VCC(+3v), SDA(18) and SCL(19) - see below - as the shield didn't have sockets for the usual pins.

    I removed the black header on bottom right of the shield - I wanted to solder it all to make good contact as that is an important connection.

    The large capacitor is there to make flashing more reliable - try flashing with the shield on if you have issues uploading code to the ESP32.

    Oh - and the top board uses the 14v from the panel to power the bottom (esp32) board via that jack at the top - so this is all you need when done.



    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ah, yes. oLED is working now. Tomorrow I'll hook the 4 wires up to the alarm system. I have a CS350 with 3 keypads. The ESP32 will be the 4th pad. But before I test it on the actual system I'll test it on a second CS350 with 1 keypad that I found 2 weeks ago on the Dutch equivalent of E-bay :)

    Thank you for your help so far! I would have been stuck for a long period without it. I'll post my new findings soon.




  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ok, seems to work. I hooked the ESP32 up to the spare alarm system. Installed the '2nd' key pad, and voila.

    Still a few issues:

    1) When trying to press the web key pad I initially got 'connection closed' messages. I then remembered that I still had a lot of debugging messages turned on. I commented this out, flashed again, and now the connection lost messages are gone. Could it be that the respons is too slow, when debugging was still turned on?

    2) I cannot connect to the smtp server for sending mails. Not with my personal provider, also not when I made a new account at gmail. Could it be related to this: https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/6010255?hl=en

    3) I could not engage the alarm. It complains about 'open zones'. Probably because I have no sensors connected to the spare alarm and I have also not configured it after the factory reset. I expect that I will not have these issues with my operational alarm system.

    4) I constantly lose the Wifi connection. Don't know why that is. When it happens I obviously can not access the webserver.

    That's it for now. I'll play a bit more with it before I transfer it to the actual alarm system.





  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Thanks for info- so google starting to block logging in using username and password. Will have look another solution. Meanwhile I have telegram app notifications working in the hkc version…could port and use that.

    Yeah- open zones- you need close the zone circuits- usually with resistors that are supplied with the panel for that purpose. Or otherwise inhibit/disable the zones.

    for wifi- make sure to use 2.4ghz rather than 5ghz - more reliable.

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Last week I was away. I started experimenting with the setup today. I was able to disable the open zones, so that I am actually able to arm/disarm the alarm. It works. With the ESP32 I am able to operate the alarm.

    But the connection is not stable. After a while, it can vary from 10 min to 30 minutes, I am no longer able to navigate to the webserver. When I hook up the laptop to see the log messages, I see no Wifi related issues. Only messages related to the delay:

    The connection between the ESP and alarm is apparently ok, since the alarm is not tripping. It stays in the current armed or disarmed state. So, there only seems to be an issue with the webserver and/or wifi. When I ping the ESP, I get no response. I tried both http and https versions. In both cases I eventually lose the connection.

    You mentioned to make sure to use 2.4 GHz. When I go to my router, I see that both 2.4 and 5 are enabled. Do I just disable the 5 in the router to make sure I have a 2.4Ghz connection? Or do I have to do that differently? Thanks again.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Ok, I just turned off the 5GHz option in the router. The ESP came back online shortly after without any intervention from me. I'll let it sit like this for a while, and see if it makes a difference. More later.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Well, it didn't improve the situation much. I then switched to a different wifi network, and now the connection seems stable. The problematic one is an old router, acting as an access point. So, don’t know what the issue is, but this problem seems solved with the other wifi network.

    Now I want to include the web interface panel in to Home Assistant. Since I made Home Assistant accessible from outside my local network using duckdns, I can only use https sites. When I use https for the ESP32, things get slow, and I get all sorts of certificate messages. There seems to be workaround with Nginx Proxy Manager. I will first sort this out, and if that works, transfer the ESP to the actual alarm system. Keep you posted.

     



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Got it in Home Assistant. It's also accessible when not on the local network via a VPN tunnel. Now I want to 3D print a casing for the ESP32, with access to the oLED screen and reset button. After that hook it to the final alarm system. Almost there :)




  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Printed a casing. Coming week I'll finalize the project.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Cool - nice one - I like the integration into Home Assistant...!

    The UI is all standard HTML in the file "WebSocket.cpp" - so if you want to dark mode it to match .. you could of course modify it something like eg.

    Change line 78 and 79 from

    "</head><body>"

    "<div style='border: 5px ...

    to: (new bits added are in bold)

    "</head><body style='background-color:#1c1c1c'>"

    "<div style='background-color:lightgreen;border: 5px ...



    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Thanks! I'll try that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    Yeah, it's working on the actual alarm system. It was so crowded with cables inside the main alarm housing cabinet, and the terminal screws where not working along, that I ended up attaching the ESP to another key pad. I expected the alarm to be tripping, but entering the engineering mode was enough to prevent that. I also implemented your colorscheme suggestion :).

    Many thanks for your help. Without it I would have never gotten this to work. You made something nice here.

    I'll let you know how it went after a couple of weeks of operation.




  • Registered Users Posts: 15 MauriceVeenman


    It's a month later, and I didn't have a single issue :). Really happy with this upgrade.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,846 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Thanks for the feedback :)

    Well done yourself on building and integrating it so well!

    “Roll it back”



Advertisement