the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

nicksnikita · 08-05-2021 2:09pm

Deleted User wrote: »

Trying to fit a new 11 speed cassette to my trainer wheel but can't get the lock ring to tighten and the smallest cog is loose as well, previously I was using a 9 speed cassette on the wheel, I'm presuming the new cassette is too large for the hub?

Sounds like the freehub is only compatible up to 10-speed

Plastik · 08-05-2021 2:45pm

Dcully wrote: »

You could be onto something here, anyway around it apart from replacing?

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/ask-pinkbike-fixing-rattling-brake-pads-best-backcountry-bike-and-are-shock-lockouts-necessary.html

Haven't had to deal with it myself but I'd say there are loads of home solutions out there.

08-05-2021 3:45pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

Sounds like the freehub is only compatible up to 10-speed

Thanks I figured as much, I managed to get it on by removing the smallest cog which probably won't be a problem on a trainer, although I'll have to test that theory by doing an all out FTP test.

Is it possible to replace the freehub or would I need a new wheel?

Paul Kiernan · 08-05-2021 5:17pm

Deleted User wrote: »

Trying to fit a new 11 speed cassette to my trainer wheel but can't get the lock ring to tighten and the smallest cog is loose as well, previously I was using a 9 speed cassette on the wheel, I'm presuming the new cassette is too large for the hub?

It sounds like the opposite - that the cassette is too small for the hub! Is that possible? Is it a case that when you turn the lockring as far as you can the cogs are still loose? Have you tried a spacer?

If it's a case that it's a 10 speed freehub you can fit an 11 speed 11-34 cassette, either HG-700 or HG-800 as these are both smaller than all the other 11 speed cassettes.

07Lapierre · 08-05-2021 5:41pm

MangleBadger wrote: »

When I set the b limit screw there is still play in the derailleur for me to push it forward, and closer to the cassette. Should I worry about that or will tension hold it back?

Hard to tell without seeing it. When you changed the chain, is it the correct length? If it’s too long, their will be too much slack and the derailleur won’t be able to keep the tension on the chain.

padyjoe · 08-05-2021 6:34pm

I have to fiddle with my Sora all the time, if I get the low right, the high goes slightly off and vice versa. I'm nearing 7 years now and 30k kms on it with origanal jockey wheels. I will replace the jockey's soon, bbb ceramic going in, hopefully it'll be some improvement. Or maybe my range is too wide, 11-32. The new casette is 11-28, but not going on yet as I'm on the 2nd chain and have to wear 1 more chain out on it.

MangleBadger · 08-05-2021 6:38pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Hard to tell without seeing it. When you changed the chain, is it the correct length? If it’s too long, their will be too much slack and the derailleur won’t be able to keep the tension on the chain.

New chain is same length as the old chain and cassette went from 11-34 to 11-36. So don’t think it could be too short. I adjusted the B limit screw and I think it’s better now. Can never tell until I get back out on it for certain.

08-05-2021 7:07pm

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

It sounds like the opposite - that the cassette is too small for the hub! Is that possible? Is it a case that when you turn the lockring as far as you can the cogs are still loose? Have you tried a spacer?

If it's a case that it's a 10 speed freehub you can fit an 11 speed 11-34 cassette, either HG-700 or HG-800 as these are both smaller than all the other 11 speed cassettes.

I'm no bike expert but I don't think that's possible I mean a 9 speed fitted ok, although I've removed one cog and the lock ring is done up tightly some of the cogs still turn freely.

I think I've found a solution although not the simplest it should be possible to take 1.8mm off the cassette using a lathe, I'm going to contact a local engineering company on Monday to see if they will do it and what it costs.

Type 17 · 08-05-2021 7:08pm

MangleBadger wrote: »

New chain is same length as the old chain and cassette went from 11-34 to 11-36. So don’t think it could be too short. I adjusted the B limit screw and I think it’s better now. Can never tell until I get back out on it for certain.

The correct adjustment for the B-screw is that the top jockey wheel is as close as possible to the cassette, but that when the chain is on the biggest sprocket/little ring (lowest gear), you can back-pedal and the teeth of the top jockey wheel don't bump on the teeth of the biggest sprocket.
For most setups, this means the b-screw is fully unscrewed, but if the cassette is on the bigger side of the RD's capacity, it will probably need to be screwed in to some extent.

breezy1985 · 08-05-2021 7:58pm

I'm about 500k into a new bike and a screw has come loose on both pedals. Not the screw that attaches it to the bike but a little screw that attaches the metal U on the pedal to the bracket. Gonna take it back to the shop but should I be happy if he just screws it back in

It's just a regular set of pedal btw

Type 17 · 08-05-2021 8:02pm

It's a common issue with cheaper pedals, especially when the body of the pedal (the bit inside the U) is made of plastic.
If it keeps happening (usually when you are a powerful rider), you could see if the bike shop will swap them for a set of metal-bodied pedals (or at least give you a discount on them).

triggermortis · 08-05-2021 8:03pm

MangleBadger wrote: »

New chain is same length as the old chain.

You did count the number of links to make sure that's the same? If you just match the length of the new to old chains, then your new chain will be too long

MangleBadger · 08-05-2021 8:33pm

triggermortis wrote: »

You did count the number of links to make sure that's the same? If you just match the length of the new to old chains, then your new chain will be too long

Yeah. Counted links.

nicksnikita · 09-05-2021 10:21am

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm no bike expert but I don't think that's possible I mean a 9 speed fitted ok, although I've removed one cog and the lock ring is done up tightly some of the cogs still turn freely.

I think I've found a solution although not the simplest it should be possible to take 1.8mm off the cassette using a lathe, I'm going to contact a local engineering company on Monday to see if they will do it and what it costs.

Still trying to get my head around this one...

Can you remember if there was a spacer behind the 9-speed cassette you removed?

Is it possible that the freehub body is very worn and is no longer engaging the notches on the cogs, thus allowing the cogs to spin freely on the body?

You mentioned the smallest cog is turning freely...are you sure it is properly engaged with the freehub body before you tighten the lockring?

I wouldn't be going for a bespoke cassette alteration at any rate. Any bike shop would get to the bottom of your issue very quickly, I'm sure. Possible solutions are: new freehub, different cassette, or, at worst, new wheel

cletus · 09-05-2021 11:14am

I'd be in the same boat as nicksnikita. I can't see why you'd have to machine off any material from the cassette.

When the cassette is on, does the locknut tighten against it, or dies it just bottom out on the threads?

Have you checked for engagement with each of the cogs separately on the freehub?

Paul Kiernan · 09-05-2021 12:55pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

Still trying to get my head around this one...

I gave up!

But now I've been dragged back in ....

It's almost certain the freehub is not 11-speed. If you don't want to fit an 11-34 cassette then just find a cheap secondhand wheel somewhere. It's for a trainer after all!

09-05-2021 1:52pm

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I gave up!

But now I've been dragged back in ....

It's almost certain the freehub is not 11-speed. If you don't want to fit an 11-34 cassette then just find a cheap secondhand wheel somewhere. It's for a trainer after all!

The Freehub is definitely not a 11 speed the wheel was bough tyears ago for something like €50 and until recently I had an 8 speed on it.

Thanks everyone for all of your help.

Just on the subject of cheap wheels, could someone explain to me why this one is so cheap? I understand it's not a Freehub so no freewheeling not that that is possible on a fluid trainer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U7HIUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_950TQJVYF3C6WKT7ZQB4

CramCycle · 09-05-2021 4:33pm

Deleted User wrote: »

Just on the subject of cheap wheels, could someone explain to me why this one is so cheap? I understand it's not a Freehub so no freewheeling not that that is possible on a fluid trainer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U7HIUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_950TQJVYF3C6WKT7ZQB4

Not suitable for a trainer IMO, it appears to be fixed/fixed, it is heavy, and having had similar wheels like this on cheap buys, won't deal with much harsh riding on Irish roads. Its cheap because it is a basic wheel and only of use to people building cheap "fixies" for resale, won't last a year outside.

spiggotpaddy · 09-05-2021 5:08pm

They don't seem so bad to look at considering the chain was starting to skip like really smart kangaroo.

Type 17 · 09-05-2021 6:13pm

By the time you can see much wear, a cassette is toast. On your one, you can see a profile difference on the left sides of the teeth, compared to the right sides, especially on the sprocket marked with a D.

For entertainment purposes, here are two more extreme examples, both of which were only changed because the bikes had become unrideable. Note the wear inside the rollers of the chain, with the rollers standing up as they rest on the sprocket.

magicbastarder · 09-05-2021 6:28pm

i should ban you for posting that horror.

nicksnikita · 09-05-2021 7:37pm

hellish Type 17

magicbastarder · 09-05-2021 11:02pm

interesting to note that the two sprockets most badly worn on that cassette seem to be the largest and the smallest. no shades of grey for that cyclist.

CramCycle · 10-05-2021 7:36am

A liberal dose of GT85 and you'll get a few more miles out of those cassettes :pac:

cletus · 10-05-2021 7:41am

CramCycle wrote: »

A liberal dose of GT85 and you'll get a few more miles out of those cassettes :pac:

That's a bit posh, isn't it? WD40 all the way.

54and56 · 10-05-2021 1:08pm

Once again testing the limit of the thread heading.

Wanting to be a bit more responsible in maintaining my bike I invested in a Decathlon Torque wrench as I don't want to over tighten anything on the bike given I have a tendency to do so.

Doing my monthly wash and lube etc yesterday I decided to use my nice shiny new torque wrench to make sure the wheels were tightened on to 10nm and no more as I'd had the bike in the LBS for new disc rotors recently.

It was a bit of a fiddle to get the bit into the receiving hole (I know this isn't the right terminology

) and the bit seemed to slip somewhat. I eventually got a good purchase and tightened to 10nm per the photo below but not without creating some scuff marks from the slippage and it dawned on my last night that maybe the allen bits which came with the Decathlon torque wrench which are all marked "H3", "H4" etc may not be the same (metric?) standard used by Trek on my Domane hence the difficulty and slippage etc.

My questions to you fine people is what if any damage may I have done if I have in fact used incorrect allen bits and what torque wrench and bits should I be using? Can I get new metric bits for the Decathlon wrench or do I need a new wrench and bit set?

So embarrassing that I don't know this basic stuff

Type 17 · 10-05-2021 1:22pm

H3, H4 are metric - H4 refers to Hex, 4mm (Hex is the term used, as Allen is (was?) a trademark of Allen Corporation).

Trek's through axles are 5 or 6 mm Allen (H5 or H6).

Check and see if there is any undamaged hex-section further in (the through-axles are hollow, but the hex goes in deeper than you might normally expect). If so, use a regular (L-shaped) Allen key to turn on the remaining good section (probably not reachable with a regular-length bit).
If not, it's probably time to shell out for replacements from Trek (your Trek dealer can get them easily enough, if you quote your frame number).
If you can't remove the damaged ones, hammer in an oversized Torx bit to create new splines in the aluminium and remove them (but this isn't a long-term solution).

CramCycle · 10-05-2021 1:29pm

Some of the thru axles have a little bit of a lip you have to push past before turning, I ruined my front one the same way as you did. Make sure its is fully in the next time, if its easy to take off, you will be fine, if it starts slipping, the damage is done, once you get it off, get a new thru axle.

54and56 · 10-05-2021 6:18pm

Type 17 wrote: »

H3, H4 are metric - H4 refers to Hex, 4mm (Hex is the term used, as Allen is (was?) a trademark of Allen Corporation).

Trek's through axles are 5 or 6 mm Allen (H5 or H6).

Check and see if there is any undamaged hex-section further in (the through-axles are hollow, but the hex goes in deeper than you might normally expect). If so, use a regular (L-shaped) Allen key to turn on the remaining good section (probably not reachable with a regular-length bit).
If not, it's probably time to shell out for replacements from Trek (your Trek dealer can get them easily enough, if you quote your frame number).
If you can't remove the damaged ones, hammer in an oversized Torx bit to create new splines in the aluminium and remove them (but this isn't a long-term solution).

Thanks for the education Type 17. I think the damage is just to the very exterior as when I got the H6 (I think it was the H6 not the H5) in and properly seated it loosened and tightened without any wiggle or slippage. It was when I was initially trying it that I think I wasn't past the exterior "gate" for want of a better term that I experienced the slippage and caused the scuffing.

54and56 · 10-05-2021 6:22pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Some of the thru axles have a little bit of a lip you have to push past before turning, I ruined my front one the same way as you did. Make sure its is fully in the next time, if its easy to take off, you will be fine, if it starts slipping, the damage is done, once you get it off, get a new thru axle.

Yes, this explains exactly the issue I had. In not wanting to be my usual forceful self and cause damage I ended up being a bit too hesitant and tried tightening without pushing past the lip hence the slippage and scuffing as it didn't have sufficient purchase.

Apart from the aesthetic damage I think (hope) the interior of the thru axle isn't damaged and tightens and loosens as it should but I'll definitely keep an eye on it.

Tanks again.

Would have been useful to find this video before I went at the wheels with my torque wrench!

This thread is a life (if not self inflicted embarrassment) saver!!

12-05-2021 12:03pm

I have a question I didn't want to start a new thread for it so maybe it belongs here.

After going for a ride outside for once I realised how terrible some of our country roads are and definitely need to lower my tyre pressures so I was thinking of getting a digital tyre pressure gauge. But having a look on Amazon I saw for the same price I could get a electronic tyre inflator that will inflate tyres to a selected PSI. Does anyone have any recommendations for one and are they generally safe to use on bike road bike inner tubes?

This is what I'm on about.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08738QTGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JQ7G1X23GH7G112BXXNY

magicbastarder · 12-05-2021 12:04pm

what sort of pump do you have? a decent track pump will have a pressure gauge.

12-05-2021 12:10pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

what sort of pump do you have? a decent track pump will have a pressure gauge.

I have a Topeak joe blow 2, but it is a few years old plus I have always been doubtful of the accuracy of analogue gauges especially in fairly low cost consumer products.

cletus · 12-05-2021 12:28pm

What pressure are you running at the moment, and what are you hoping to run?

I'd imagine the pump you have would be accurate enough

magicbastarder · 12-05-2021 12:44pm

there's no reason to believe a digital gauge is any more accurate than an analogue one, i'd have thought. it's just a different method of displaying the figure.

Type 17 · 12-05-2021 12:54pm

The best method for assessing a gauge you own is to pump a tyre to a given pressure and then check it with as many other pumps/gauges as you can access (friends, relatives, LBS, etc) to compare.

Bear in mind that you will lose at least 2-4PSI each time you fit/remove the pump-head or gauge, so take that into account.

Once you've seen that your own gauge isn't an outlier in the accuracy stakes, you can trust it (or if it is, you'll know whether it reads high or low, and will be able to choose a reading to aim for).

13-05-2021 5:08pm

On Friday I'm taking delivery of a power metre but in order for it to work on the bike I have to say goodbye to my Shimano Ultegra Crank arms and attached spider.

Was just wondering if anybody here would like them all I ask is that you pay the cost of shipping.

WOT · 13-05-2021 5:10pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

On Friday I'm taking delivery of a power metre but in order for it to work on the bike I have to say goodbye to my Shimano Ultegra Crank arms and attached spider.

Was just wondering if anybody here would like them all I ask is that you pay the cost of shipping.

Definitely interested

cletus · 13-05-2021 5:34pm

If WOT falls through, I'll take next in line, please

13-05-2021 7:07pm

Thanks I'll give you an update on Saturday once I have the new power meter and cranks installed.

Wouldn't suppose either of you would like a fake but really good quality and as far as I can tell indistinguishable visually from the real thing Specialized romin evo saddle in white? I'll be honest I've never ridden on it but the company I ordered it from on AliExpress had great reviews.

Again not looking to profit just the cost of shipping.

cletus · 13-05-2021 7:30pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Thanks I'll give you an update on Saturday once I have the new power meter and cranks installed.

Wouldn't suppose either of you would like a fake but really good quality and as far as I can tell indistinguishable visually from the real thing Specialized romin evo saddle in white? I'll be honest I've never ridden on it but the company I ordered it from on AliExpress had great reviews.

Again not looking to profit just the cost of shipping.

You had me until white

Thanks for the offer, though

WOT · 13-05-2021 8:52pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Thanks I'll give you an update on Saturday once I have the new power meter and cranks installed.

Wouldn't suppose either of you would like a fake but really good quality and as far as I can tell indistinguishable visually from the real thing Specialized romin evo saddle in white? I'll be honest I've never ridden on it but the company I ordered it from on AliExpress had great reviews.

Again not looking to profit just the cost of shipping.

See how you go with the new tech. Let me know the postage cost for both and how I can get it to you PayPal, revolut, carrier pigeon etc.

I’ll pass the saddle on again if it doesn’t suit my upcoming shopping cart build.

cletus · 13-05-2021 9:05pm

I guess that means WOT hasn't fallen through...

MadYaker · 13-05-2021 9:14pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Thanks I'll give you an update on Saturday once I have the new power meter and cranks installed.

Wouldn't suppose either of you would like a fake but really good quality and as far as I can tell indistinguishable visually from the real thing Specialized romin evo saddle in white? I'll be honest I've never ridden on it but the company I ordered it from on AliExpress had great reviews.

Again not looking to profit just the cost of shipping.

I’d take that, pay you postage and make a €20 donation to a charity of your choice.

Nialler73 · 14-05-2021 10:05am

20210512_230108.jpgHi. 1st time changing disc brake pads on a road bike. Got them on fine with the bolt tightened but the small clip that was on with the previous pair won't go back on. Should I be concerned?

magicbastarder · 14-05-2021 10:11am

should be very easy to attach that - in what way is it failing to go on?
the large loop at the end is to facilitate removal/reattachment - it's not where the clip is actually meant to grip the bolt, it's the centre of the clip which does that.

Nialler73 · 14-05-2021 10:28am

Ok, I was trying to connect it via the loop. I'll give that a blast. As an aside, are the 2 silver clips that came in the packet replacements for this clip also?

Nialler73 · 14-05-2021 12:12pm

Clip attached, ta very much for the tip.

Type 17 · 14-05-2021 7:28pm

Nialler73 wrote: »

...As an aside, are the 2 silver clips that came in the packet replacements for this clip also?

If your brake callipers hold the pads with a screw and safety clip, then you should use that system.
Some disc brake systems use split-pins (pic below), which work fine, but they shouldn't be re-used, hence the fresh pads come with new ones, but it sounds like you don't need them.

darragh o meara · 15-05-2021 3:15pm

Changed the rear derailleur and ended up with one with a longer cage, as a result it’s almost impossible to get up to the biggest cog on the front and rear at the same time. I’ve bought a new chain and usually size it by wrapping around both large cogs and adding 2 links.

Should I add more for a longer cage?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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