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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #2612
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users Posts: 7,214 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    fat bloke wrote: »
    So stupid I had to ask it twice!
    I've never come across a rim braked one but no reason why you couldn't build one up from separate parts? You'd probably just end up with a redundant left shift lever. Or see if such a thing as 1x cable disc groupsets exist and swap over the brakes?


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    #2613
    Gasco
    Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Gasco


    I became convinced that my alloy bars are near end of life and ordered Deda Superzero (alloy) replacements. Thought I had ordered DCR, but mistakenly ordered the non-concealed cable version.

    I decided I would use them, but, where the bend meets the top there is a line saying to stop taping here, which is grand, I can ignore this line or not. But if I were to stop taping here, what happens with the cables? I could just put a single wrap of tape nearer to the stem to keep them in the under-bar groove - or do you just deal with floppy cables?


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    #2614
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    ironictoaster wrote: »
    Dumb question.

    Does anyone know what does plastic adapter things in the top right corner of this photo are called? Looking to buy em online

    Looking to mount lock to my seat stay and I need those plastic things to do so
    Are you talking about the shim to make the bar wider or the actual holder on the left of the photo. If the former, wrapping an old tube around the frame will bulk it out enough, if the latter, you can get them here: https://mobil.abus.com/uk/on-road/Locks/Holders-and-Brackets/Lock-Brackets-Bike
    Gasco wrote: »
    I decided I would use them, but, where the bend meets the top there is a line saying to stop taping here, which is grand, I can ignore this line or not. But if I were to stop taping here, what happens with the cables? I could just put a single wrap of tape nearer to the stem to keep them in the under-bar groove - or do you just deal with floppy cables?
    A bit of electrical tape although it sounds silly you have to stop wrapping the bar there. Maybe they meant taping the cable to the bar and you can keep going with handlebar tape as I can't figure out why you wouldn't.


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    #2615
    Gasco
    Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Gasco


    Thanks Cram - looking online all of the cool people have the tape stopping at roughly this point, grand if the cables route through the bars, but impractical for external routing (and also comfort).

    Will wrap as normal - I am not cool.


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    #2616
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,494 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Anyone know the BB for a rose X Lite 2019. I presume its a pressfit BB86 but I know Rose are really slow at replying since the pandemic, and I have just started to hear that creaking telling me its time to change.


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    #2617
    wheelo01
    Registered Users Posts: 679 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    Possibly need to start a thread (if I do, I apologise)

    I have a Cube Attain GTC 2019 https://www.cube.eu/en/2019/bikes/road/road-cyclocross/attain/cube-attain-gtc-sl-disc-carbonngrey-2019/ it says it has Fulcrum Racing 66 DB wheels, I can find no info on them at all - nothing on fulcrum website, they mention racing 6, not 66. Apparently I need to replace the bearings in the front wheel, but I can find no videos on how it's done (or if I'm capable), nor specs to tell me what bearing it is.

    Secondly, I want to tighten the brakes, I feel there is too much pull before they bite, is this a difficult thing to do ( God be with the days I'd just twist a thingummy on rim brakes)
    Thanks in advance.


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    #2618
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    wheelo01 wrote: »
    Secondly, I want to tighten the brakes, I feel there is too much pull before they bite, is this a difficult thing to do ( God be with the days I'd just twist a thingummy on rim brakes)
    Thanks in advance.

    Check out pages 53/4 here (PS: I've found that some of these 105 levers don't have the free stroke adjustment, even though they are a model that should have it):

    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RADBR01/DM-RADBR01-07-ENG.pdf


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    #2619
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    wheelo01 wrote: »
    Possibly need to start a thread (if I do, I apologise)

    I have a Cube Attain GTC 2019 https://www.cube.eu/en/2019/bikes/road/road-cyclocross/attain/cube-attain-gtc-sl-disc-carbonngrey-2019/ it says it has Fulcrum Racing 66 DB wheels, I can find no info on them at all - nothing on fulcrum website, they mention racing 6, not 66. Apparently I need to replace the bearings in the front wheel, but I can find no videos on how it's done (or if I'm capable), nor specs to tell me what bearing it is.

    Secondly, I want to tighten the brakes, I feel there is too much pull before they bite, is this a difficult thing to do ( God be with the days I'd just twist a thingummy on rim brakes)
    Thanks in advance.

    They're the same as the Fulcrum 6, theyre just OE spec wheel for factory bikes.

    If they use the same bearings as the Fulcrum 5 (which they probably do as I believe its the 4 and lower that use cup/cone and all above use cartridge bearings) then the bearings in your wheels will be marked 61903 but they're not, they are actually 18307's with 61903's seals. Don't buy ridiculously expensive fulcrum bearings thinking they're proprietary as they're not, just buy 18307's.

    Its very simple to change the front wheel bearings. Watch this video.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsyYlj9cdcM


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    #2620
    TychoCaine
    Registered Users Posts: 673 ✭✭✭TychoCaine


    ironictoaster wrote: »
    Dumb question.

    Does anyone know what does plastic adapter things in the top right corner of this photo are called? Looking to buy em online

    Looking to mount lock to my seat stay and I need those plastic things to do so


    Screenshot-20200907-164930-01.jpg

    They're called bracket shims. Abus don't sell them separately. You'd have to buy the whole bracket from https://mobil.abus.com/uk/on-road/Locks/Holders-and-Brackets/Lock-Brackets-Bike


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    #2621
    8valve
    Registered Users Posts: 976 ✭✭✭8valve


    wheelo01 wrote: »

    Secondly, I want to tighten the brakes, I feel there is too much pull before they bite, is this a difficult thing to do ( God be with the days I'd just twist a thingummy on rim brakes)
    Thanks in advance.


    Are the pads worn, allowing more pad/piston travel before reaching the discs?


    If so, new pads are your solution.


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    #2622
    wheelo01
    Registered Users Posts: 679 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    8valve wrote: »
    Are the pads worn, allowing more pad/piston travel before reaching the discs?


    If so, new pads are your solution.

    I left the bike in for a service relatively recently, I pointed this out to him, he did something, and they were better, just not what I expected.
    No, they were never "instant" gripping, there was maybe 10 mm play before grip. Now, here's the disclaimer, these are my first disc brakes, so my expectations may be way higher than the actuality.
    I must stop someone who thinks their brakes are right and take a spin to compare.

    The whole bleeding thing looks like something I could leave to the LBS.

    Thanks for that video about the bearings Cee-Jay-Cee, that does look like something I could tackle.


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    #2623
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    wheelo01 wrote: »
    I left the bike in for a service relatively recently, I pointed this out to him, he did something, and they were better, just not what I expected.
    No, they were never "instant" gripping, there was maybe 10 mm play before grip. Now, here's the disclaimer, these are my first disc brakes, so my expectations may be way higher than the actuality.
    I must stop someone who thinks their brakes are right and take a spin to compare.

    The whole bleeding thing looks like something I could leave to the LBS.

    Thanks for that video about the bearings Cee-Jay-Cee, that does look like something I could tackle.

    I have disc brakes. I think they are working right. I can pull skids with them. Can you pull skids?


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    #2624
    wheelo01
    Registered Users Posts: 679 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    cletus wrote: »
    I have disc brakes. I think they are working right. I can pull skids with them. Can you pull skids?

    I think with the right weight movement I could, I'll try it for certain tomorrow


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    #2625
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    wheelo01 wrote: »
    I think with the right weight movement I could, I'll try it for certain tomorrow

    I was being a little facetious, but you should be able to lock up you wheel if the brakes are working correctly


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    #2626
    brownian
    Registered Users Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭brownian


    TychoCaine wrote: »
    They're called bracket shims. Abus don't sell them separately. You'd have to buy the whole bracket from https://mobil.abus.com/uk/on-road/Locks/Holders-and-Brackets/Lock-Brackets-Bike

    A couple of wraps of old tube may do the same thing?


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    #2627
    beauf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 22,651 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    Slightly odd question. I'm thinking of swapping the teens quick release skewers for non quick release for school use. Anyone done it.

    Thus far I've been using those cables, but I think they are marginal security at best, and fiddly both to use and carry.
    Going to two locks seems over kill especially for school. U locks are a pain to carry and difficult to mount on smaller frames.

    I know on my own bike switching to chain that locked without a key made the whole locking and unlocking much easier and faster.


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    #2628
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,744 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    On my main bike I've got an Axa Defender frame lock for the rear wheel, and a Pitlock security skewer for the front wheel.

    Pinhead security skewers are cheaper so a reasonably priced option is Pinhead for front and rear wheel.

    There are also security skewers where you have to turn the bike upside down before you can start unscrewing the skewer. I don't think they're all that secure, but they might do the trick, and then your kids don't need to bring the security skewer key with them.

    This is a good round-up of what's available:
    http://thebestbikelock.com/wheel-locks-and-seat-locks/


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    #2629
    beauf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 22,651 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    Cheers..


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    #2630
    Melanchthon
    Registered Users Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Melanchthon


    Looking at getting a Peugeot Cadre Allege, a 70's/80's cheap enough bike back on the road
    Same model as in this video
    https://youtu.be/HbhMGhNlEAY

    Bottom bracket is seized and need to replace bearings I think in the freewheel.
    Currently have very very limited tools so wondering about picking up a tool set but since it's a older bike (and cheaper) bike I am wondering what set too buy or too just leave it (I would make use of a toolset for another bike I have though so willing to spend more than the 50 euro the bike is worth)

    https://www.decathlon.ie/ie_en/900-bike-toolbox-en-s100427.html


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    #2631
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,478 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    this may be the thread you need:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058088554&page=4


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    #2632
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    A tool set like the Decathlon one you link to is a good way to jump start your tool collection box for working on bikes etc. Once you have a basic set, buying a tool each time you need to do a job is a great, and relatively cheap way to expand on the tools you have, and the jobs you are able to complete.

    I know you say that you have limited tools, but have a look at the actual contents of the set above, as you may already have the more common tools, such as screwdrivers, Allen keys, spanners, etc. and might not want to double up.

    Having said that, I have quadrupled (and possibly quintupled) on a number of different types of tools, but I may have a problem:o:D


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    #2633
    8valve
    Registered Users Posts: 976 ✭✭✭8valve


    Melanchthon wrote: »
    Looking at getting a Peugeot Cadre Allege, a 70's/80's cheap enough bike back on the road
    Same model as in this video
    https://youtu.be/HbhMGhNlEAY

    Bottom bracket is seized and need to replace bearings I think in the freewheel.
    Currently have very very limited tools so wondering about picking up a tool set but since it's a older bike (and cheaper) bike I am wondering what set too buy or too just leave it (I would make use of a toolset for another bike I have though so willing to spend more than the 50 euro the bike is worth)

    https://www.decathlon.ie/ie_en/900-bike-toolbox-en-s100427.html


    Might be best to look at specific tools for the freewheel and bottom bracket fitted to the Peugeot, as modern bottom bracket or cassette tools probably won't suit.


    Other than that, threaded headset spanners and some axle cone spanners might be the only specialist tools you need.



    Decent sets of Allen keys, combination spanners and screwdrivers always go a long way when working on vintage bikes.


    Oh.....and trust me on this.....a good hefty hammer!!


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    #2634
    kevin7
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭kevin7


    Hi, My brand new gatorskin tyre blew out yesterday after 50km on use. Put in a replacement tube, inflated with compressed CO2 cannister, and it popped about 10 seconds later. At this stage notice the tyre had a 30mm rip between the sidewall and wire. Both tubes has a big hole in almost the same place. Both are the same distance from the valve, the only difference is one is on the rim side and the other on the "road" side.


    Any ideas whats causing this?



    The wheel seems perfectly "normal" in that location. i.e. no sign of any damage or spokes protruding through the rim tape.



    And the reason I have a new tyre is the old tyre went the same way. About a week ago started a ride and only got 1km until blowout. Fixed and cycled another 1km and heard the air coming out pretty quickly, but not quite a blowout.



    Called home and got a lift back...when I went to assess the damage the tyre had a rip in exactly the same way the new gatorskin now has a rip.



    I dunno - at home I inflate with a track pump to a little below the stated tyre limits, roadside its usually a CO2 cannister.



    Really don't know what to do next. It can't be just a string of bad luck????



    Any thoughts?


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    #2635
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    How are you using your tyre levers? - some tyres (especially Gatorskins, TBH) aren't that strong around the inside of the bead (metal or kevlar wire in the tyre), and sliding the tyre on or off by with one tyre lever and excessive force at the start if dismounting, or the finish of mounting (rather than using 2 or 3 levers to lift it off/on) can cause damage, leading to the tyre carcass tearing off the bead when the tyre is pumped up hard.


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    #2636
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,219 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    kevin7 wrote: »
    Hi, My brand new gatorskin tyre blew out yesterday after 50km on use. Put in a replacement tube, inflated with compressed CO2 cannister, and it popped about 10 seconds later. At this stage notice the tyre had a 30mm rip between the sidewall and wire. Both tubes has a big hole in almost the same place. Both are the same distance from the valve, the only difference is one is on the rim side and the other on the "road" side.


    Any ideas whats causing this?



    The wheel seems perfectly "normal" in that location. i.e. no sign of any damage or spokes protruding through the rim tape.



    And the reason I have a new tyre is the old tyre went the same way. About a week ago started a ride and only got 1km until blowout. Fixed and cycled another 1km and heard the air coming out pretty quickly, but not quite a blowout.



    Called home and got a lift back...when I went to assess the damage the tyre had a rip in exactly the same way the new gatorskin now has a rip.



    I dunno - at home I inflate with a track pump to a little below the stated tyre limits, roadside its usually a CO2 cannister.



    Really don't know what to do next. It can't be just a string of bad luck????



    Any thoughts?

    If your bike has rim brakes, make sure the pads are not too high. if too high they rub the tyre and will cause a blowout.


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    #2637
    kevin7
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭kevin7


    thanks for the ideas....on tyre levers and brakes. Both make sense as possible causes.



    Yes - its rim brakes and one of the two blocks is a little diagonal and doesn't look like it will rub against the tyre, but you never know. (I just put the wheel with no tyre back on to have a look).



    As for tyre levers - hard to know. I'd normally get 3 levers in there and hope to slide the third through to get the tyre off, although its by no means easy. To get the tyre on I usually manage without levers, although again it takes a lot of doing and the thumbs and hands would be well worn out after it.



    I guess I thought after the blowouts I'd be able to examine the wheel and immediately see an obvious cause, but nothing like that. :-(



    I'll try again - get it back on the road during the week and see if I can go a couple of hours without another incident.


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    #2638
    Roberto_gas
    Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Folks this is a pic of tyres of my brand new giant content purchased in feb..went to cyclesuperstore and they said its cosmetic..should i chase for replacement ?


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    #2639
    .red.
    Registered Users Posts: 3,338 ✭✭✭.red.


    I didn't want to start a new thread and figured it was (kind of) maintanence related.
    I got handed a set of pedals when I bought my bike second hand.
    I'm now half thinking of keeping an eye out for a cheap pair of shoes to see how I go with them.
    Are these pedals any good for someone who's never used clipless before?

    7KcW6mq


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    #2640
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Roberto_gas wrote: »
    Folks this is a pic of tyres of my brand new giant content purchased in feb..went to cyclesuperstore and they said its cosmetic..should i chase for replacement ?

    They just look like manufacturing marks to me, I'd say they're fine


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    #2641
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    cletus wrote: »
    They just look like manufacturing marks to me, I'd say they're fine

    True, just the edge of the material that is glued/moulded into the tyre carcass to protect the carcass from excessive wear from the rim.


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