the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

tomasrojo

CramCycle wrote: »

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

I did this on my tourer. It did get rid of chain slap, but now if I cross-chain the chain jams. If you can be in the big chain ring and remember not to gear all the way down at the rear, it's fine.

I do know it's generally regarded as a bad practice, but I do it by accident sometimes. It's a triple though. Might not happen in a double?

CormacH94

What is the story with -17 degree stems being so expensive? Any I've seen are about 90 quid? Is this something to do with them having to be more stiff due to the angle?

Got my hopes up when I seen Ritchey had one for under 30 - but it's for 1 1/4 steerer...

magicbastarder

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

CormacH94

magicbastarder wrote: »

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

True


If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?



Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

ironictoaster

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

CramCycle

CormacH94 wrote: »

True


If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?



Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

-17 would leave it flat but depending on your stem length and where you want the bars, you could achieve it in other ways. What length of a stem were you planning with the -17 and do you have any room to move its position up or down by moving spacers?

crosstownk

ironictoaster wrote: »

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

I use an Altura Pocket Rocket. It packs small and tidy and fits nicely in my jersey pocket. The zip is dodgy and has been since I bought it four years ago but I can live with it.

It’s great at keeping me dry from the rain and perfect for showery weather or an hour or two of persistent rain.

grogi

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:

• replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads
• greased the seat tube
• greased all the spokes where they touch each other
• greased the frame where it touches the axle
• checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

Weepsie

Pushing hard on the pedals, but you havn't mentioned anything about doing anything to the pedals? My shoes sometimes rub off the cranks and give an annoying squeek.

Cleats too somehow gave an annoying squak at one point.

dahat

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

grogi

Weepsie wrote: »

Pushing hard on the pedals, but you havn't mentioned anything about doing anything to the pedals? My shoes sometimes rub off the cranks and give an annoying squeek.

Cleats too somehow gave an annoying squak at one point.

dahat wrote: »

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

Thanks, that's really worth checking out.

I don't use cycling shoes, have an old fashioned bear-claws pedals with that are super wide, but will definately pay attention next time.

magicbastarder

grogi wrote: »

[*]greased all the spokes where they touch each other

it doesn't usually result in a squeak, but you could also try greasing the spoke nipples where they contact the rim.

loyatemu

have you checked the cranks and pedals themselves, grease the threads then tighten well...

brownian

grogi wrote: »

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:

• replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads
• greased the seat tube
• greased all the spokes where they touch each other
• greased the frame where it touches the axle
• checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

Check the stem bolts and headset. Hard pushing also means more pressure at the front end.

magicbastarder

best to just hose the bike down in WD40 to be sure.

(note - i sprayed some light oil onto my cleats last week cos one was squeaking as i pedalled. within 1km of heading out, i fluffed a clip in, and my foot slipped off the pedal and i mashed my shin into the pedal)

8valve

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

Nowadays, when cycling, if I hear a creak, I ask myself ''Is that me, or the bike?'' :-)

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:

Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub
dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)
seatpost head - saddle fastening
Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design)
pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

dahat

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

gaffmaster

dahat wrote: »

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

You could buy or borrow one 28c tyre and check if it fits your current setup before making costly upgrades. I've managed to squeeze a 28c into Ultegra 6700 brake caliper before. The overall inflation size depends on the wheel's rim width and the tyre in question.

grogi

Big thanks to everyone that replied with ideas...

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:
Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub

Through axles, tighten properly...

dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)

Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...

seatpost head - saddle fastening

Played with that, lubed here as well. I'll take the seat post completely off the bike.

Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design

Nothing of such in my frame.

pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

That is the most probable curprit to be fair...

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

I realize that - hense I lubed the whole seat post. I might actually completely take it off to rule that out.

cletus

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like.

I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p

cletus

[Deleted User] wrote: »

I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like.

I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p

I saw that too, in my, admittedly modest, searching. I came to the same conclusion as you; they are very likely empty, which brings us back to the original issue.

Something like this is what I'm after, but God knows the cost.

magicbastarder

i have something like this - just a readily available stanley toolbox, but cantilevered with sections in the two shelves.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-1-92-911-Mega-Line-CantiLever-Tool-Box-Black-Yellow-/223115395724

Type 17

Type 17 wrote: »

...dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)

grogi wrote: »

Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...

Sorry, not that well-written - this issue came up for me - a new bike, silent bars and stem, as you'd expect - went out in the rain for the first time (a good soaking), and afterwards the stem/bars interface, and the stem-fork interface had developed a creak whenever any pressure was applied.
Took it all apart, and there was a small amount of fine powder/grit washed into parts of the facing surfaces, which seemed to be causing the creaks.
I wiped it all down, and brushed on a thin film of grease, and never heard a creak again, despite many more wet rides.

woody33

Sorry but...can't get rid of v-brake squeal. No noise till I got new pads, I've cleaned the rim and pads and tried various toe-in or no toe-in settings, no difference. The front wheel is very slightly out of true, I admit. Could it be the pads? They are cheap eBay ones, but I've bought from the same UK guy before.

swarlb

cletus wrote: »

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

https://www.efox.ie/index.php

This company can make hard sponge 'cutouts' for tools and spanners. All they need is measurement or an outline of the tool required. These are usually to fit in tool box drawers, or briefcase type boxes.

grogi

Type 17 wrote: »

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

So I took the seat post competely from the bike and no creaks/squicks at all. This time I could push much harder in silence, until I hit a bit of chain rub...

The chain rub needs tiny little bit of extra tension on the cable, but what the hell to do with the seat post? I'll try lubing the inside of seat-tube and seat-post...

Thanks for ideas!

Kerry_2008

Hi All, I am just asking for some advice. I have had a merida Matt's MTB for a few years now. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-au/bike/364/matts-65v. The past few years I have mainly used it on my commute so just swapped out the wheels for hybrid tyres.

I haven't cycled in the past year as I have problems with my back and chest that are made worse by my leaning position on the bike. I tried a friends bike the last day and it was an upright style da Vinci bike with the dutch style handle bars. My seating position was practically upright. I was able to do the Waterford Greenaway with no ill effects.

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

grogi

Kerry_2008 wrote: »

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

I did exactly opposite to my old throw around - replaced the handle bars from relaxed Dutch style to something more aggressive. It looks like a proper hybrid now.

I think it definately is worth exploring, but might be much more cost effective to just get a second hand Dutch cruiser...