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Tubeless road - it actually works

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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,427 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Yeah I think that's a good strategy. The sealant shouldn't be needed for any initial gaps.

    different valves can suit different wheels due to the profile of the rubber which sits into the inside of the rim.

    I'm having a bit of fun with my panaracer now.. I chased a few leaks but latest was a small puncture which did not seal. Added some stans sealant which I recovered from an mtb tyre I'd just swapped out at weekend.

    I think the other sealant makers besides stans are a waste of time.

    On the plus side a few small punctures on a spin did seal ok. And the large 38c volume means even slow punctures take a long time to flatten the tyre and give more chance of sealing.

    The road experience is still a lot tougher than for mtb. I swapped both tyres on the mtb at weekend, 10 minutes, lever barely needed, absolutely no leaks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Fingers crossed, haven't been stranded yet. I do always carry a spare tube though just in case. I can't say for sure if I've ever had a puncture that said though.

    I found the whole process actually handy enough. The tyres went easily enough - bit of a wrestle onto the rims but not significantly worse than the Conti 4 Seasons I had been using (these are Vittoria Rubinos 28s on a DT Swiss rim). I didn't need anything other than the track pump to get them to seat, and they held air fairly well before adding sealant. For the sake of the few quid, the injector is worth it I think. I would just find the mess of having to get the tyre off the rim, adding sealant and trying to wrestle it back on an ordeal, whereas the syringe is super quick - top up took about 5 minutes.

    They're not necessarily for everyone, and I'd say anything less than 28mm tyres, you're into diminishing returns, but I'm glad I did!



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    I ordered:

    a few years ago and they are an invaluable part of the tubeless kits



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I got this one https://www.alltricks.com/F-11929-outillage/P-21610-notubes_syringe___injection_preventive_tips It screws onto the valve which is handy and has a little screw on cap to prevent residual goop leaking and making a mess



  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭Suvarnabhumi


    So I got a new bike and for the first time I now have tubeless tyres. What do I need to bring with me in case of emergency?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,646 ✭✭✭✭dahat




  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭Suvarnabhumi


    :D

    I bought one this morning! The bike has carbon wheels so I don't fancy using metal tyre levers on them, and always found the plastic levers a bit crap in comparison. Is there anything that I can get that might avoid having to add a tube while out?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,760 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Tyre plugs, to deal with any punctures that the sealant won't fix

    If the hole in the tyre is too big to be plugged, you'll need to fit a tube as dahat has mentioned. Just make sure you can undo the locknut to remove the tubeless valve stem.

    If you do get to the "fit a tube" stage, check the inside of the tyre - not just for whatever has caused your current puncture but for also other thorns or bits of glass which punctured the tyre in the past but sealed.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL




  • Registered Users Posts: 9,289 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    (Unplanned 🙄) new wheelset on the way which is tubeless ready, so plan to go tubeless with them. I'm fed up fighting tubed conti's onto rims so not inclined with tubeless, what's the equivalent/ better option to the 5000? Pro One/ Pro Zero/ Corsa N.ext? Probably only racing them for the moment (will keep the stock wheelset for days out).



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,216 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I've only used Pro Ones but have put them onto many different wheelsets (DT Swiss P1800, Giant SLR1, Zipp 303, Scribe Aero Wide, Hunt Aero Light, Mavic Cosmic). It was only a struggle to get them onto the Mavics, and all aside from the Zipp's inflated easily.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,289 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Looking around it may be a case of whatever I can get in 28mm! Also decided to go for the airliner inserts - as I'm going tubeless, may as well have the ability to limp home rather than cover myself in sealant!



  • Registered Users Posts: 427 ✭✭gmacww


    I've been running tubeless this past winter on the winter bike. The tyres themselves (vittoria rubino pro graphine 2.0) are cracking tyres for winter riding. Lovely and grippy in the worst of Wickla conditions. Have had 1 puncture that sealed thus far and only noticed that when checking the tyre while cleaning the bike. All in all a good move for me. Setup and what not was painless.

    Question though and wondering has anyone done it or does it even work. If you put sealant into a tube running a normal tubed clincher setup would the sealant seal the tube?



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,607 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Mucoff make an inner tube sealant, no idea if it’s any use. I’d say regular sealant is probably useless as won’t react with the butyl.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,289 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Actually went for the Conti's - the new tubeless one's supposedly not as bad as earlier ones. Time will tell (order from BikeInn, so maybe quite a long time to tell 😀 )



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭Pa ElGrande


    Here is an unusual tubeless tyre failure I experienced recently. It's a Bontrager GR1 tubeless gravel tyre. Half way through a spin after a fast section (50KM) the rear wheel felt like I was running over a pothole every revolution. Stopped to investigate and noticed a bulge in the tyre. There seemed to be no loss in tyre pressure, it had been inflated a few days previously to 40 PSI. Was able to cycle home.

    It was obvious the tyre needed to be replaced, new tyre cost nearly €60 + 4 oz (120ML) bottle sealant @ €8

    When I removed it, the inner lining of the tyre (circled below) was damaged in a circular patter., I can only speculate I may have hit a bump in the road to cause an impact for it disintegrate like that.

    Removing and changing the tyre was easy, requires a little effort to break the tyre seal with the wheel rim. Inflated with a track pump to ensure it sealed on the rim. Don't forget to check the direction arrow marked on the tyre sidewall before you fit the new tyre. You should hear a few audible pops when the type fits in place.

    I did not have a valve core tool, I unscrewed it using with a miniature spanner set I had available,then added the sealant. (how much sealant needed - There may be guidelines on the bottle).

    Pumped up the tyres and left it for a two hours, no pressure lost and test ride ok.

    Net Zero means we are paying for the destruction of our economy and society in pursuit of an unachievable and pointless policy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,136 ✭✭✭RobertFoster


    Any tyre recommendations (or bargains 😉) for general road use? Trying to research reviews and prices a lot of manufacturers seem to just change a letter or two when updating the product line.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,366 ✭✭✭beggars_bush


    tubeless let me down today. Tyre had only been resealed on Friday and then whoosh. Strangely happened on newly resurfaced bit of road

    Of course, I hadn't bothered to bring a spare tube (first puncture in 9 months), or pump, or the phone



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    How often do people add sealant ? Also do i need to remove old sealant ? Thanks !



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,427 ✭✭✭Gerry


    At the moment I'm adding it quite regularly. As I'd tried a few brands of sealant, I think I need to go and remove all sealant now. to save weight at least!

    I'm using stans sealant on 38c tyres @50 psi.. but think its too thin. anyone got recommendations for sealant? one of the lads in bike shop recommended muc off but Id tried that also and wasnt too impressed.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    I use Stan's in 40c tyres, but I'd normally run them about 40psi.

    I've had no issues, it has sealed when I needed it (sometimes without realising it needed it). In what way do you feel it's too thin



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,427 ✭✭✭Gerry


    yeah I'm running 40psi front 50 rear. To be honest I will give the stans a bit longer.. I have tried a few brands now and probably part of the issue is that they will have mixed. Need to fully clean out the tyres.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,030 ✭✭✭CheGuedara


    Tried a good few sealants over the years and settled on Stans Race sealant, use it for road (probably overkill here) and mtb - hasn't let me down so far [touches all the wooden things].



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,427 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Yeah I read a few reviews there after and stans race seems to be able to fill larger gaps.

    I had been wondering if filling through the valve core is preventing some of the larger particles from getting into the tyre.

    this thread revival was timely, as after the morning school run the back tyre was down again. It had not yet had much stans in it.

    So I took the tyre off and cleaned the previous sealant off. It did not look to be in a good state. nutrak by oko - do not buy this.

    Added probably 80ml stans, shook it well. A few holes seem to have re opened and a disappointing amount of sealant left during inflation.

    Going to check now and see.

    None of the holes in the tyre are particularly large, id say 2 or 3mm. a tubeless repair dart is too big for em.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,236 ✭✭✭Robxxx7


    Bought one recently when i went over to the Cycle show in UK .. the owner of the company gave me a demo of how it worked (using a 50mm Carbon Wheel and Conti GP 5000 tyre) .. made pretty light work of taking tyre off and on.. Not had to use it myself on my own bike just yet though



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,289 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    I've found it works well, if you trust it for the whole process when putting on the tyre (i.e. do not just use it for the last tight bit, but the whole way around).



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,236 ✭✭✭Robxxx7


    Yeah .. thats what i was told and shown as well ..



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,760 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Bear in mind that those will not work with hookless rims, such as those used on the Giant SLR carbon wheelsets.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I've been using Vittoria Rubino Pros for the past year+ and have had no complaints. Easy to put on, roll well, and most importantly, no punctures (tempting fate here)

    On the advice of others a few pages back, I just topped it up. I'd gone about 9 months without topping up, but I'm going to do it more often - probably 4-6 months



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  • Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Tubes anyone??



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