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Tubeless road - it actually works

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,850 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I've got a whole heap of super light tpu inner tubes I keep meaning to try



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,605 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    I bought some of those ‘freenow’ ones off aliexpress to keep in the saddlebag if I ever got a puncture I couldn’t plug, dunno how confident I’d be running them daily though



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,850 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I had tubolito ones that I really liked but a really badly repaired pothole (it developed its own pothole) wrecked them would've wrecked any tyre.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Was wondering the same recently myself but didn't find any reason to change from either Schwalbe Pro One or Contintental GP 5000 tubeless

    Both are fast but I've found the Schwalbe lasts a bit better. Normally shop around and if I see one on offer somewhere will take it.

    Tried Vittoria Corsa once, very fast as marketed but got tiddly squat time out of it so never again.... unless I can get them for a tenner ;-)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,931 ✭✭✭G1032


    Was looking to buy some TPU tubes but wasn't prepared to spend 20 odd euro on them. Never thought of AliExpress. Thanks for the reminder 😂



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,425 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Probably time for an update on the panaracer tlc slicks. They seem delicate as feared. I've a few patches on inside of front and rear tyre now. no big holes at all, but not sealing permanently. I might try stans race sealant but I used muc off and then stans..

    persevering as they are such a great tyre otherwise. I'll go for the plus version next time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Trekker09


    Gone a pair of Shcwalbe 1s TLR and had nothing but hassle fitting them. Front tyre wouldn't pop, so called over to Docmans house and after a bit of a struggle finally managed to coax it accept air. The rear was a pig. Spent an hour doing everything possible to get it to catch on the rims, bit no joy. This was last Tuesday and has tried non stop to fit them but nada! I just stuck a tube in and said f* it!

    So, tubes it is then!



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,120 ✭✭✭nilhg


    My gravel wheels (DT Swiss RR 481db rims) can be hard enough to get tyres on but I always succeeded with the Panaracer SKs I had on, recently they gave up the ghost and I got a set of Conti terra speed, the rear went on OK but I couldn't get the front up at all. Luckily we have a compressor in the yard but even with that I had to rig a straight connection from the tank to the valve with the core out to get it to come up, with enough volume, flow and pressure air was going in faster than it could escape between the rim and tyre. She let a fair bang going up on the rim.

    I'd say I have close to 9000km on tubless this year between my gravel bike and my Giant Defy, I had one puncture this year and that was when the Panaracer caught a big stone and split along the bead, I have to say I'm a fan of tubeless.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Trekker09


    Oh I am a fan of tubeless but surely they need to make them workable and not having to have MacGyver levels of ingenuity.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,120 ✭✭✭nilhg


    Agreed.

    In the interest of balance I should have said I fitter 32mm GP 5000s tubeless to a pair of Ican aero 35 wheels with nothing more than a standard 10 year old Joe Blow track pump, the problem is you never know till you try. Getting them on the first time is always going to be the worst though.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Trekker09




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,211 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Punctured today with a massive thorn from a fallen branch which was getting caught in my mudguard. Stopped and pulled it out, sealant spraying and air escaping. Rode on and sealant did its job. Maybe lost 10 psi and 30 seconds.

    For anyone struggling with fitting, I bought a Lidl compressor (I'd suggest the silent oil free one) for not much more than 100. I'd definitely recommend it over tubeless pumps. I also keep a spray bottle of washing up liquid and water and spray both wheel and tire before mounting if I expect any difficulty. That usually works



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,425 ✭✭✭Gerry


    front tyre still ok, rear tyre stopped sealing and was no use with tubes. was completely worn out. changed it for the plus version. early days but so far so good.



  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭Suvarnabhumi


    I seem to have a slow puncture in my front wheel on my Gravel Bike. After about 2 days I need to give it a pump. Does that mean I'm out of sealant? How often should sealant be added? What happens to sealant when you don't get any punctures? Does it need topping up anyway?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,211 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Yes it dries up after a few months, depends on weather and usage etc but 3-6 months would be a good guess. You can just top up some through the valve core. In theory you should clean out the used sealant from time to time, but I've never gotten that long out of a tire to really need to do that.

    I just top up at the start of the season on the summer / winter bike, if I get a puncture that takes a while to seal, or sometimes if I have a big event etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 247 ✭✭Birka


    Best approach is to remove the valve every six months or so. With the valve at the lowest point, use a small cable tie as a dipstick to see how much sealant is left. Top up accordingly.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Don't suppose you would know how many mm of sealant should show on the dipstick ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 247 ✭✭Birka


    I'd be happy with somewhere around 3mm, max 5mm. 5mm would be a considerable amount of sealant if you were to picture the puddle inside the tyre. I'd usually add another 20ml of sealant once it looks like there's not much left to run around the tyre



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,838 ✭✭✭statto25


    I need some help folks before I launch a wheel into the river. I'm moving over to tubeless on my carbon rims. Front one has gone without issue but the rear refuses to hold anything more than. 40psi.

    Air is pi$$ing out the drain holes in the rim no matter what I do. Tubeless tape, gorilla tape, both overlapped, different values but nothing works. Bar putting tec7 into the drain holes (I won't) where the hell am I going wrong? The valve seems sealed and the tyre actually seats with a track pump which never happens. I'll take advice, wisdom, prayers at the this stage



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Have you added the sealant at this point?

    Several brands of tubeless wheels - particularly those that are designed for disc rather than rim brakes - are back to using pinned rather than welded rim joints. A mate was having considerable issues setting up his wheels due to air leaking into the rim internal cavity via the rim joint and out the spoke holes. Faffing around with the rim tape had no impact as the air was leaking at the sidewalls above the edge of the rim tape. he contacted the vendor who told him to add the sealant as it would plug the gap at the rim joint and, to be fair, it did.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,838 ✭✭✭statto25


    On attempt 1 and 2 to get them sealed I did that sealant but air was still coming from the drain holes. This is attempt 3 so I havent added the sealant yet as it was just pooling in the hollow of the wheel and then falling out when the tape was removed. Ive never had bother like this with a rim and Ive ran tubeless for 5+ years.

    Post edited by statto25 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I've read most of the posts in this tread and i've come to conclusion that a tubeless setup is great...as long as you don't get a puncture! would that be a fair assessment?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,838 ✭✭✭statto25


    I think youve to treat tubular and tubeless the same. Carry the same spares you would if you ran a tube. The sealant will sort most small punctures but anything bigger and youre gonna need a tube. There are plugs, patches etc but on the side of the road, a tube is the quickest solution. I run them as they are more comfortable on the roads I use daily.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    But that implies that tyres with tubes are uncomfortable in some way. Are they? what size tyres do you have? I have 32mm tyres (with tubes) and IMO its the tyre size that makes them more comfortable?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,838 ✭✭✭statto25


    I run 28s with and without tubes and I find the tubeless more comfortable. That might just be my delicate backside though!



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    yeah you must have a very "sensitive" rear to be able to tell the difference! :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Yes i was all in until i got a puncture two weeks back ! But i am in agreement that tubeless are more comfy !



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,216 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Fair enough. But is this extra comfort worth the hassle of maintaining a tubeless wheel setup? I totally agree that tubeless is the way to go for racing, where a puncture can ruin your race, but it seems to me that the convenience of tubes (combined with wider tyres) is comfortable enough for commuting/club spins etc. no?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    well it was my first puncture and i did literally nothing last 1.5 years for maintaining tubeless after having the bike. Even sealant topup was not required(although i had bought sealant to topup). If i had not hit a pothole i would be still in the tubeless clan ! Only issue i have now is to fit the tyre back myself...the puncture has sealed already. May be if i get it setup again (high compressor and sealant topup), i would use it again.

    Its the frustration of not able to DIY the setting of tyre which i dont like :P ! Else its as good as going to a shop to get a new tube for ur bike.



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