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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,628 ✭✭✭corks finest


    Added reversing sensors to my wifes car.

    Bumper off
    https://preview.ibb.co/fMEDXq/IMG-20181107-114358.jpg
    https://preview.ibb.co/k6xYXq/IMG-20181107-114401.jpg

    Sensors wired up and in position
    https://preview.ibb.co/eM8kdV/IMG-20181107-115311.jpg

    Masking tape to hopefully reduce chipping the paint
    https://preview.ibb.co/f9y7sq/IMG-20181107-115508.jpg

    1 sensor in. Pretty happy. In hindsight i'd love to have had a white rattle can to paint the inner diameter of the cut hole white also. I might retouch with some paint and a toothpick at a later date
    https://preview.ibb.co/j3mtXq/IMG-20181107-115924.jpg

    Bumper back on!
    https://preview.ibb.co/mmEDXq/IMG-20181107-130104.jpg

    Sensors: GreenYi sensors from AliExpress - 2-3 week delivery - $18
    Nice work boy


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,628 ✭✭✭corks finest


    Out with the old in and in with the new, the youtube video I watched said this was a 30 minute job... it turned into a 3 and a half hour job in the end. Stuck torx bolts that I almost stripped stopped me in my tracks. A lot of cursing and wd-40 and I managed to break them free. But done now, and it looks well, the paint is a pretty good match. The car depsparatly needs a clean which should help things!

    Before... it's been like this for a year and half or more!
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=462623&stc=1&d=1538249021

    During:
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=462624&stc=1&d=1538249021

    After:
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=462625&stc=1&d=1538249021
    Nice


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,365 ✭✭✭baldshin


    Changed my droplinks today on my constantly rattling 06 Astra. Convinced that was the cause of the rattling. Have never done anything like this before but said I'd give it a go having researched the level of difficulty. Took about 2 hours which I was happy with, very fiddly and the old ones were incredibly difficult to get off. They definitely needed replacing though. Test drive after and.....rattling still there! Took it for 2 new front tyres and tracking then, driving nicely apart from the mysterious rattle!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Four Phucs Ache


    Very similar to you I had a phantom rattle, changed drop links and tie rods etc, eventually figured out it was anti roll bar bush.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Very similar to you I had a phantom rattle, changed drop links and tie rods etc, eventually figured out it was anti roll bar bush.

    I've had the phantom rattle in my focus pass 3 ncts now. It hasnt gotten any worse over 40k miles and only appears on harsh bumps... Not sure if ill ever find out. Thinking it might be the arb bushings.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Exhaust, exhaust heat shield, look up on any part that could hold debris such as stones etc.

    Brake pads or loose pin etc could cause rattle also.

    Yes could be bushings etc also...


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,731 Mod ✭✭✭✭The Real B-man


    Full service on the Tiguan today first time doing the fuel filter on it and reading online about all sorts fuel pump priming required on the common rail models i just changed as i would have on PD models old fuel out quick clean of the housing new filter and fresh fuel and it started first time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Yeah the VAG cars are grand, if you’re doing anything with the focus/Volvo 1.6 diesel it can be a real pain in the ass.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,500 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Christmas present for Ms jou's car had to be completed immediately, so despite Christmas day, out to deal with it.

    Before:

    468850.jpg

    Few close-ups:

    468851.jpg

    After:

    468852.jpg

    The set involved claimed to be dedicated for the model, so pretty straightforward job - 30 minutes with talking and drinking. :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,382 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Do I see drilled pedals there too?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 13,500 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Not really. What you see are old Corolla TSport rubber-metal very well worn pedal covers. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Tis unusual for me to be here on a Sat evening but alas! The only free time I get at this (back to the garage after this session for letting the tea settle!)

    First and foremost the following post wouldn't have been possible without the help of fellow boardsie kilianmanning for locating/supplying the donor vehicle and diagnostics to help pinpoint errant faults. And of course my father for the extra set of hands!

    Anyway, it's been a long journey with the car and it's irritating lights on the dash. French and electrics eh...

    After scanning the brake system it came back with a solenoid fault: the module had had it it seems. The module is fairly accessible... Yeah right!

    I tried from the top. After ripping the heater fan and all around it out I decided not a hope it would come out this way, so the only other option was under the car.

    We start outside
    DoYCuIGh.jpg

    A few minutes later...
    Hy4Ovt4h.jpg

    Using some 3 inch pipe and the elec seats to keep some fluid in the master cylinder
    ooYDvmNh.jpg

    A lot of cursing and blinding later, it's ready to drop out
    ePiQrLvh.jpg

    And out. If you are unfortunate to be lumbered with this task leave the 2 from the master cylinder in situ as they'll most likely be seized!
    LXnDH4Zh.jpg

    Mark them and clean them up
    rQ9z6Cfh.jpg

    Seeing as it was evening I checked out the old module. It had been destroyed by the CV grease from the busted boot (most cleaned off but there's a blob)
    5l7zruYh.jpg

    Some Peugeots were called back for water ingress in the module. This was no exception
    5IHTERwh.jpg

    Next day put the whole lot back in, 5.1 fluid and discover there was no difference; lights still on! Back to the drawing board...


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Came to the conclusion that the wiring must be at fault... Later that evening, out to the donor car. No one was able to tell me where the ABS/ESP ECU is so I'll tell you all now: in front of the left wheel behind the splashguard. Nice clean unit!
    67S3HS4h.jpg

    Pins... Weren't so clean. Some I've done for comparison!
    imGpNSIh.jpg

    Next day (see what I mean by a long process...) I took off my own one

    I see the original matching screws and bolts were used...
    sAoRwmMh.jpg
    ULClA3ph.jpg
    FEdNgYth.jpg
    bKlNw1yh.jpg

    Looks fine to me... Even rang a bolt taking that out!

    Checked the wiring starting with the earths
    hcrtuHlh.jpg

    The difference is very noticeable already after one pass of P60 toilet paper!
    bxPszsgh.jpg

    Put the replacement ECU in and... New fault: open circuit on the front N/S ABS sensor. Out with the plug!
    MYIPjdPh.jpg

    And the pins are covered in...
    aVuHJRJh.jpg

    Cleaned up, resistance checked and plugged back in
    7CgGcjrh.jpg

    A beautiful sight without lights!

    While the subframe is off I found the elusive rack leak
    2w1yfZxh.jpg

    The end was not in great shape, so out with a replacement pipe and fitted
    nHotvU1h.jpg

    Last task for now is to clean up the subframe. It's currently drying and will get the good ol' red oxide treatment when ready
    BonovaIh.jpg

    There is one more fault with the gearbox (solenoid fault causing limp mode) and I'm going to start with the wiring once again to check for breaches!

    All good things come to those who wait
    Mz3XltVh.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,309 ✭✭✭✭wotzgoingon


    Must be great being able to do all that type of work. Fault finding not so great it is also annoying to go to all the trouble of replacing a part to find it was not the problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Must be great being able to do all that type of work. Fault finding not so great it is also annoying to go to all the trouble of replacing a part to find it was not the problem.

    I don't think the old module was long for this world if it wasn't already faulty; there was evidence of plenty of ingression over a period of time. The subframe would have had to come down anyway to chase the power steering leak too and to clean it properly after the boot originally let go :eek: in this case the module in the car now had a light coat of dust when I took it out of the other car :cool:

    But I know what you mean: I've fired new parts at cars over the years to find the original fault still existed! :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,628 ✭✭✭corks finest


    Interslice wrote: »
    Very similar to you I had a phantom rattle, changed drop links and tie rods etc, eventually figured out it was anti roll bar bush.

    I've had the phantom rattle in my focus pass 3 ncts now. It hasnt gotten any worse over 40k miles and only appears on harsh bumps... Not sure if ill ever find out. Thinking it might be the arb bushings.
    Must be great being able to do all that type of work. Fault finding not so great it is also annoying to go to all the trouble of replacing a part to find it was not the problem.
    Lads I take my hat off to ye,just reading what ye were doing had me sweating


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,628 ✭✭✭corks finest


    Interslice wrote: »
    Very similar to you I had a phantom rattle, changed drop links and tie rods etc, eventually figured out it was anti roll bar bush.

    I've had the phantom rattle in my focus pass 3 ncts now. It hasnt gotten any worse over 40k miles and only appears on harsh bumps... Not sure if ill ever find out. Thinking it might be the arb bushings.
    Must be great being able to do all that type of work. Fault finding not so great it is also annoying to go to all the trouble of replacing a part to find it was not the problem.
    Lads I take my hat off to ye,just reading what ye were doing had me sweating


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,628 ✭✭✭corks finest


    baldshin wrote: »
    Changed my droplinks today on my constantly rattling 06 Astra. Convinced that was the cause of the rattling. Have never done anything like this before but said I'd give it a go having researched the level of difficulty. Took about 2 hours which I was happy with, very fiddly and the old ones were incredibly difficult to get off. They definitely needed replacing though. Test drive after and.....rattling still there! Took it for 2 new front tyres and tracking then, driving nicely apart from the mysterious rattle!
    I had a rattle that drive me mad for about 2 months, thought it was the exhaust etc,put it up on ramps,noise gone,back,gone,my guy who was looking at it had his hand on the heat shield,,,,loose bloody nut holding heat shield in place


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,254 ✭✭✭Kevin Finnerty


    New front Brembo discs and pads on my A6 today. Some amount of pad left even though the warning light is on the last 500km.
    There was 33% left on them in comparison to the new pads. Annoying but mechanic changed them with the discs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,500 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Minor thing and obviously not to everyone's taste, but I like it. :)

    Before/bought/after:

    470184.jpg

    470185.jpg

    470186.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Bit of an annoying issue but easily fixed: bulb gone in the speedo. This meant not only could I not see the coolant temp at night, but couldn't see what speed I was doing either!

    TU6axdUh.jpg

    Easy to remove. A welding rod and a small pry down
    wl6KLYPh.jpg

    To the spare unit for a replacement bulb that was originally in this car (black clocks, has the same mileage). Never bodged sure... :rolleyes:
    vzVfvT8h.jpg

    Fit replacement bulb, whack it all back in and test. Hooray!
    bQEOdPYh.jpg

    I had a casual look at the wiring behind the mfd and put it back for another day. I dread what I'll find if I start at it...
    wUKgKvxh.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 23,157 Mod ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    Jaysis that is some mess of electrics!

    Makes my DIY job for the day look like nothing. One of my keys in the e46 hasn't worked properly for years. Probably 3 years ago my main key would no longer reliably open the car remotely, and worse it began having trouble talking to the immobilizer. I swapped to the spare key and all's been good since. But the spare key is now showing its age.

    After googling, a lot of people suggest that the batteries die in these keys, and need replacing. What sucks is that they are no user replaceable, BMW wants you to buy a new key at 200 quid. Feck that, so I've ordered a new battery and last night took apart the old key. It's a pain in the hole, as you have to cut the key open. A lot of swearing and trying not to injure myself and I had it open. 3v battery only reading 2.7v on the multimeter. At least that's a sign that the battery is indeed not healthy. I've ordered a kit, as the battery is soldered on, the kit allows you to de-solder the terminals and replace the whole thing. So fingers crossed it works.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    So much work for such a small thing Alan and €200 for a new key? Crikey!


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 23,157 Mod ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    So much work for such a small thing Alan and €200 for a new key? Crikey!

    That was the price Murphy and Gunn gave me years back. Theres a few crowds in Dub that will fix/replace your keys for much cheaper. But I'm a cheap bastard... er I mean a DIY enthusiast!


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    That was the price Murphy and Gunn gave me years back. Theres a few crowds in Dub that will fix/replace your keys for much cheaper. But I'm a cheap bastard... er I mean a DIY enthusiast!

    Is there nothing suitable on Ebay and that be coded to your car with the old "turn forward, turn back" etc. method?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,893 ✭✭✭rex-x


    Is there nothing suitable on Ebay and that be coded to your car with the old "turn forward, turn back" etc. method?

    You cant code an immobiliser to any car like that (ford do have a method IF you have 2 already programmed keys to add a third)

    The forward back etc steps are only for coding the central locking which is totally separate, immob coding is done with diagnostics and often a security code/ live subscription to database or similar depending on car and age


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    rex-x wrote: »
    You cant code an immobiliser to any car like that (ford do have a method IF you have 2 already programmed keys to add a third)

    The forward back etc steps are only for coding the central locking which is totally separate, immob coding is done with diagnostics and often a security code/ live subscription to database or similar depending on car and age

    When I lost the only key to my Avensis I began to firstly go bananas research what my options were to get me back up and running. After being quoted lottery numbers to rectify I began to research how the immobilizer worked and if it was possible to reprogram it myself, seeing as I have several spare keys knocking abut (locks wouldn't be an issue either). An interesting article I found was some Toyotas had the option of zeroing the eeprom chip for the immobilizer to allow programming of new/replacement keys. This would require reading the chip with a suitable hex reader via the RS232 port on an antiquated desktop I have.

    Now in the finish I found the key in the snow so that was panic over, but I've been fascinated since and would like to try this out sometime. I have and since replaced the ecu for one that has 3 keys but may do this as an experiment, I have a spare ecu anyway :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,893 ✭✭✭rex-x


    When I lost the only key to my Avensis I began to firstly go bananas research what my options were to get me back up and running. After being quoted lottery numbers to rectify I began to research how the immobilizer worked and if it was possible to reprogram it myself, seeing as I have several spare keys knocking abut (locks wouldn't be an issue either). An interesting article I found was some Toyotas had the option of zeroing the eeprom chip for the immobilizer to allow programming of new/replacement keys. This would require reading the chip with a suitable hex reader via the RS232 port on an antiquated desktop I have.

    Now in the finish I found the key in the snow so that was panic over, but I've been fascinated since and would like to try this out sometime. I have and since replaced the ecu for one that has 3 keys but may do this as an experiment, I have a spare ecu anyway :D

    In all fairness .50c is lotto numbers to you if it doesn't add performance :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭extra-ordinary_


    Fitted a genuine BMW part third brake light to the bootlid of a 1 series coupe and can anyone tell me what other manufacturer when fitting a genuine part do you have to modify both the part and the car to fit it!?...FFS


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 23,157 Mod ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    Jaysis that is some mess of electrics!

    Makes my DIY job for the day look like nothing. One of my keys in the e46 hasn't worked properly for years. Probably 3 years ago my main key would no longer reliably open the car remotely, and worse it began having trouble talking to the immobilizer. I swapped to the spare key and all's been good since. But the spare key is now showing its age.

    After googling, a lot of people suggest that the batteries die in these keys, and need replacing. What sucks is that they are no user replaceable, BMW wants you to buy a new key at 200 quid. Feck that, so I've ordered a new battery and last night took apart the old key. It's a pain in the hole, as you have to cut the key open. A lot of swearing and trying not to injure myself and I had it open. 3v battery only reading 2.7v on the multimeter. At least that's a sign that the battery is indeed not healthy. I've ordered a kit, as the battery is soldered on, the kit allows you to de-solder the terminals and replace the whole thing. So fingers crossed it works.

    Right, so I replaced the battery. Easy peasy. But things aren't working quite right. Immediately after replacing the battery I went to the car and tried the buttons. I could open the boot and open the doors. But the lock button wasn't working. Weird. There's a key initialisation process whereby you insert the key in the ignition, turn to position 1 and back to off and out. Then press and hold the open button and press lock 3 times and release the open button. But this process isn't working.

    I've tried a number of these button press combinations with now luck. The key starts the car fine, and if I put the key in the drivers door it will open all the doors. It just won't work with the buttons now. Not too sure...

    I've checked the battery with a multi-meter and it is charged. I've checked the buttons on the key with the same and they all appear to work. I have been able to initialise the other working key using the above method, but it simply doesn't work with the other key with the replaced battery.

    Hmmm...


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