Tubeless road - it actually works

harringtonp · 02-07-2020 4:10pm

There is certainly learning with tubeless. Had a slow puncture and put a worm in on Tuesday because between Sunday morning and Tuesday evening pressure went from 80 to 25. After putting it in did a session and pressure went from 80 at beginning of session to 25 at end which was one hour later. So worm made it worse. Pumped it back to 80 again once home and left wheel lying overnight with puncture at lowest point. Fine since and that included another short training session yesterday.

Rogue-Trooper · 02-07-2020 4:47pm

harringtonp wrote: »

Dynaplug racer just arrived. They say put tool in until it is against the thread. I do wonder if you do that what is there to stop the plug just falling through.

Don't suppose anyone has had opportunity to use one on a road tire ?

The 'tail' on the plug is quite long. Just push the tip in until it is all the way into the tyre. You'll need a blade to snip off the excess 'tail' sticking out.

harringtonp · 06-07-2020 11:12am

harringtonp wrote: »

Question on syringes for removing and adding sealant. Can you get suitable ones in a pharmacy ? Something that both removes and injects through a valve core ? Or in general hardware stores ?

Also do guys remove old sealant to see much they have, put the old sealant back in and then top it up to 30mm or whatever the desired amount is ?

This is what I am looking to do, got a (rare) puncture recently and a load of it spewed out before sealing. Want to make sure I have enough but not more than I need if you get my drift.

Amazon

harringtonp · 23-07-2020 5:37pm

Changed tyre a couple of days ago, put on a Vittoria Corsa Speed. Had no problems inflating it but saw small leaks around the rim and slow deflation. Put sealant in and it helped, it stays up no problem for a spin but after 2 days was down to 20 PSI.

I'll keep an eye on it, what I've found before is in these situations leakage can get less over time.

As for the cause I'm wondering could old dried sealant under the rim be preventing a good seal ? Anyone experience of this ? I removed some of it before putting on the new tyre but it was a half assed job.

who_ru · 23-07-2020 9:50pm

harringtonp wrote: »

Changed tyre a couple of days ago, put on a Vittoria Corsa Speed. Had no problems inflating it but saw small leaks around the rim and slow deflation. Put sealant in and it helped, it stays up no problem for a spin but after 2 days was down to 20 PSI.

I'll keep an eye on it, what I've found before is in these situations leakage can get less over time.

As for the cause I'm wondering could old dried sealant under the rim be preventing a good seal ? Anyone experience of this ? I removed some of it before putting on the new tyre but it was a half assed job.

my understanding is that the rim needs to be surgically clean, use IPA if you can get it. is there tape involved?

harringtonp · 23-07-2020 10:00pm

IPA ?

There is rim tape but its fine. It was the edge of the rim where the bead fits that had old sealant.

68 lost souls · 24-07-2020 9:44am

isopropyl alcohol

harringtonp · 24-07-2020 2:31pm

Was using baby wipes which may have similar properties depending on the brand. Gave up as thought I was being overly fussy.

manafana · 24-07-2020 8:48pm

i found the sealant helped create better seal so loosing pressure early wasnt unusual, odd time the valve could be leaking slowly too.

harringtonp · 24-07-2020 9:28pm

This was definitely coming from the rim. I sudded the new tyre beads before installation and could see bubbles where there was leakage.

crosstownk · 24-07-2020 9:52pm

I'm planning on switching to tubeless but reading (some) of this thread has me wondering if I should stick with tubes and regular tyres.

Currently, I head out with 2x spare tubes and 3x CO2 cylinders and a puncture repair kit as a final back up. I've stopped bringing a pump.

I'm considering tubeless primarily because I have brand new pair of 2 Way Zondas and the idea of a self sealing puncture is obviously appealing but some of the installation hassles, rim sealing difficulties and puncture repair difficulties that I'm reading here are making me rethink.

I have a regular Beto floor pump - will this suffice to seal the tyres to the rim or will I need one of those charged chamber pumps? Should I bring a worm repair kit with me on the road in case the tyre doesn't re-seal? Should I still bring a spare tube and a boot - just in case.

Most likely, I should just take the plunge and do it but I'm happy enough with tyres and tubes and only get the odd puncture every few thousand kms.

CantGetNoSleep · 24-07-2020 10:26pm

I'd say go for it. I'm happy with tubeless and now run it on my two main bikes. I've only had one puncture which didn't seal - I patched it with a tube patch from the inside of the tire and has been fine ever since.

I carry a Dynaplug which I've never used but looks like the simplest forms of repair kits. I haven't had great experience with the worm type kits - either too big for a road bike, awkward to insert or stick together. Take a spare tube just in case although not sure how easy it is to remove the valve in the event of needing it.

crosstownk · 24-07-2020 10:32pm

Thanks for the reply, CGNS. I think I'll begin with tubeless on the bike I use for longer distances where I've a reduced risk of punctures.

I take your point about difficulty removing the valve so maybe a spare tube is not of any real benefit.

harringtonp · 24-07-2020 10:37pm

Lock ring often needs to be tight to get an initial seal. But when you're up and running you could try loosen it enough with a pliers so that you can loosen it by hand if needed. Once it is off there is no reason why the valve shouldn't pop out easy enough

andy69 · 26-07-2020 10:53pm

harringtonp wrote: »

Lock ring often needs to be tight to get an initial seal. But when you're up and running you could try loosen it enough with a pliers so that you can loosen it by hand if needed. Once it is off there is no reason why the valve shouldn't pop out easy enough

have you guys used a tool to tighten the valve lockring? Just wondering as I only hand-tightened mine, and I put in a little tiny big of grease on the threads just in case it sealed/locked on (think Fatbloke earlier mentioned he had to use his dreaded 'call-home puncture kit' to get collected as he couldn't unscrew the lockring and was stranded, as the threads had bonded over the months)

harringtonp · 27-07-2020 4:49pm

I used a pliers after having difficulty getting an initial seal. Gave a bit more torque than the hand. It did the trick

MediaMan · 28-07-2020 5:03pm

Have been using Schwalbe Pro Ones tubeless for the last couple of years, part-time, about 4k kms. No punctures, but for sure they are soft and quick to wear out! Had to replace the rear already, and the front is now looking dodgy - see attached pic. Any views as to whether this one needs to be replaced or is good for a while later longer?

who_ru · 28-07-2020 6:03pm

MediaMan wrote: »

Have been using Schwalbe Pro Ones tubeless for the last couple of years, part-time, about 4k kms. No punctures, but for sure they are soft and quick to wear out! Had to replace the rear already, and the front is now looking dodgy - see attached pic. Any views as to whether this one needs to be replaced or is good for a while later longer?

Replace. Try Vitorria Corsa tubeless, fast and durable by all accounts. Maybe not the cheapest. I’m using mavic ksyrium wheels and mavic tubeless tires. So far so good, only about 500km done a bit early to call them great but no complaints here. Pirelli have also just entered the tubeless market if you want to try them.

Corker1 · 28-07-2020 11:32pm

Yep, bin that tyre. I have been using Pro 1s for the last four years and never had them wear like that. The rubber looks perished as much as worn. Would storage conditions have affected the tyre at any stage?

Oberkon · 29-07-2020 10:40am

I have been using the mavic tubeless tyres the last couple of years . I’ve only had 2 punctures on the road that I’m aware of . Both sealed for me to get me home although obviously lost pressure initially. They have also worn very well as I do decent mileage . Very Easy To mount on Zonda 2 way fit and mavic wheels . I’ve gone on some rough roads too
Only negatives for me are they run a tad narrow and could be better in the wet .
I’m a fan at this stage even if they haven’t the tan walls I like !

MediaMan · 29-07-2020 10:58pm

Corker1 wrote: »

Yep, bin that tyre. I have been using Pro 1s for the last four years and never had them wear like that. The rubber looks perished as much as worn. Would storage conditions have affected the tyre at any stage?

Yeah, it's more a matter of the rubber splitting than wearing right down. Hasn't been exposed to any harsh extremes, except a week of super hot roads in France last summer.

Will defo replace, next up Conti 5000's.

Couple of other issues I had with these tyres. Theyre supposedly 25mm,but actually measured 27.8mm at 80 psi on rims that are 19mm internal width. That's ridiculously off and left me about 1mm clearance on each side in the frame.
Also, one of the tyres was badly unbalanced, so much so that I had the wheel checked, only to discover the tyre was the problem. It was the first tyre on the wheel. And it was hard to get to seal. Nice tyre to ride on though.

Anyway, put a Conti on (rear) and the wobble is gone. Haven't cycled it yet though! Will replace the front now and see how it goes.

harringtonp · 29-07-2020 11:34pm

MediaMan wrote: »

Theyre supposedly 25mm,but actually measured 27.8mm at 80 psi on rims that are 19mm internal width. That's ridiculously off and left me about 1mm clearance on each side in the frame.

They are wider which is why I run a 25 on the front and 23 on the back. Got fed up with tyre rub using 25 on the back. I think most tyres measure more, switch the Pro One on the back a week ago to a Vittoria Corsa Speed 23mm and its width measures at 25

crosstownk · 06-08-2020 10:51pm

A pair of TLR Vittoria tyres arrived from Alltricks today.

I've a brand new set of two way Campagnolo Zondas sitting in the box since May.

I was WFH today so decided to fit the tyres at (extended) lunchtime. A ba$tard to fit. Not the worst but by jebus they were tough. Anyway, I managed to mount them to the rims with sore thumbs and slightly bent tyre levers. I removed the valve cores and pumped like never before with my trusty Beto pump to seat the beads. Clicks, pops, bangs. Perfect - so far.

Then time to introduce the sealant. What an almighty mess. I used a syringe to inject the sealant through the valve (core removed). When I removed the tube the sealant squirted back out. The plunger fell out of the syringe. Sealant all over the wheel, my shoes, patio, fcuking everywhere. Messiest job I've ever done on a bike.

Despite the struggle and mess, the tyres are pumped to almost 8 bar and holding (7 hours now).

Early days but so far, so good.

I won't be using these wheels on the bike just yet. Being over 50, I'm playing it cagey and giving in to my reluctance to change. Maybe next week. Maybe.

The thought of not having to replace a tube at the side of the road is hard to resist.

who_ru · 07-08-2020 4:36pm

crosstownk wrote: »

A pair of TLR Vittoria tyres arrived from Alltricks today.

I've a brand new set of two way Campagnolo Zondas sitting in the box since May.

I was WFH today so decided to fit the tyres at (extended) lunchtime. A ba$tard to fit. Not the worst but by jebus they were tough. Anyway, I managed to mount them to the rims with sore thumbs and slightly bent tyre levers. I removed the valve cores and pumped like never before with my trusty Beto pump to seat the beads. Clicks, pops, bangs. Perfect - so far.

Then time to introduce the sealant. What an almighty mess. I used a syringe to inject the sealant through the valve (core removed). When I removed the tube the sealant squirted back out. The plunger fell out of the syringe. Sealant all over the wheel, my shoes, patio, fcuking everywhere. Messiest job I've ever done on a bike.

Despite the struggle and mess, the tyres are pumped to almost 8 bar and holding (7 hours now).

Early days but so far, so good.

I won't be using these wheels on the bike just yet. Being over 50, I'm playing it cagey and giving in to my reluctance to change. Maybe next week. Maybe.

The thought of not having to replace a tube at the side of the road is hard to resist.

i think the tube should have been removed before adding sealant, the tube is used to help mount the tires, once this is done, deflate and break the bead on one side, remove tube and pump tire again to get it to mount again.

then deflate again, remove core, add sealant (i've never used a syringe) just a small bottle with 30-60ml of sealant. put core back in (tight) and pump up again. But it can be a right SOB to do.

put the wheels on, go for a local spin, not far, see how it goes. leave it 24hrs and check. then go for a spin. fair play for trying it out. i've no regrets.

crosstownk · 07-08-2020 11:20pm

I didn’t use a tube. Strictly tubeless. It just seemed hassle to remove the valve in order to fit a temporary tube. The ‘tube’ I referred to was the plastic tube from the syringe to the valve core. Bad choice of word in my part.

Thankfully the pump supplied enough volume to seat the beads. I’ll take them for a spin on a local loop as suggested.

manafana · 10-08-2020 4:58pm

crosstownk wrote: »

I didn’t use a tube. Strictly tubeless. It just seemed hassle to remove the valve in order to fit a temporary tube. The ‘tube’ I referred to was the plastic tube from the syringe to the valve core. Bad choice of word in my part.

Thankfully the pump supplied enough volume to seat the beads. I’ll take them for a spin on a local loop as suggested.

i use a small bottle of sealant with a nozzle that fits into the valve hole (that i top up from my big bottle) instead of syringe, a little bit of tissue paper as you get a little bit of leaking when u remove it.

ofthelord · 10-08-2020 6:16pm

Hi All,
I hope it is ok to ask question re my tubeless tyre here?

I'm looking for some advise on an issue I've noticed on my rear tyre.
See attached image.
There are c.20 tiny holes on the rear tyre, noticeable by sealant wet marks. No idea when or how these occurred, only started to notice these in the last week or two. There is no noticeable pressure loss, but I'm unsure of what action I need to take.

Would I need to patch each of these holes or maybe replace the tyre?

thanks.

stones81 · 10-08-2020 6:37pm

Hi this might have been answered already when it comes to adding sealant do you need to clean out the old sealant or just top it up

who_ru · 10-08-2020 6:53pm

ofthelord wrote: »

Hi All,
I hope it is ok to ask question re my tubeless tyre here?

I'm looking for some advise on an issue I've noticed on my rear tyre.
See attached image.
There are c.20 tiny holes on the rear tyre, noticeable by sealant wet marks. No idea when or how these occurred, only started to notice these in the last week or two. There is no noticeable pressure loss, but I'm unsure of what action I need to take.

Would I need to patch each of these holes or maybe replace the tyre?

thanks.

now that's what i call the benefit of tubeless - you didn't notice anything at the time, kept on rolling. i wouldn't do much now if there's no noticeable pressure loss, just keep the sealant topped up. if you don't have a spare tire invest in one just in case.

who_ru · 10-08-2020 6:57pm

crosstownk wrote: »

I didn’t use a tube. Strictly tubeless. It just seemed hassle to remove the valve in order to fit a temporary tube. The ‘tube’ I referred to was the plastic tube from the syringe to the valve core. Bad choice of word in my part.

Thankfully the pump supplied enough volume to seat the beads. I’ll take them for a spin on a local loop as suggested.

when adding sealant try to have the valve at the 8 o clock or 4 o clock position, the sealant has something to roll into instead of pooling at the lowest point of the wheel and potentially spilling out after being added. 30ml is the recommended amount, anything extra (and it's always tempting to add more) and you're adding to the weight of the bike at that stage.

Tubeless road - it actually works

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