the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Type 17 · 18-04-2018 7:08pm

No, you can run a long-cage derailleur with any size cassette (once you aren't exceeding its range with a gigantic cassette).

If you do fit a smaller cassette, re-check the B-screw on the rear derailleur, to lift the top jockey wheel closer to the new cassette's profile.

Icyseanfitz · 23-04-2018 3:06pm

Question lads, starting to put my new build together and have run into this small issue. I've the correct diameter seat clamp (going to change to a non quick release for carbon though) got for my frame but the height seems way off. The seat clamp area on the frame measures at 20mm while the clamp itself is 17mm. Am I supposed to cut the area down on the frame or get a taller seat clamp?

Picture

07Lapierre · 23-04-2018 4:01pm

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

Question lads, starting to put my new build together and have run into this small issue. I've the correct diameter seat clamp (going to change to a non quick release for carbon though) got for my frame but the height seems way off. The seat clamp area on the frame measures at 20mm while the clamp itself is 17mm. Am I supposed to cut the area down on the frame or get a taller seat clamp?

Picture

A taller seat clamp...Do not cut the frame!

Or just slide the clamp down as far as it goes and then use a seat post ring to hide the top 3mm?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/fizik-seatpost-ring/rp-prod113649?gs=1&sku=sku407485IE&pgrid=53513330318&ptaid=pla-296303633664&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sdGZNbJ2N_dc|pcrid|253511013572|pkw||pmt||prd|407485IE

Icyseanfitz · 23-04-2018 8:51pm

will one of those stretch around a 34.9 clamp area? be a nice quick solution

Icyseanfitz · 23-04-2018 11:23pm

the hope wont slide down as it has a lip at the top, are there any clamps that are taller than standard, or a clamp without a lip at the top.

i swear i had every detail of this build worked out and this is after catching me

QueenMTBee · 25-04-2018 1:38pm

Not a bike maintenance question but didn't think my query deserved its own thread.... I have a buzz beetle car rack but the rubber straps provided to hold the bike onto the rack are too short to go around the frame of a mountain bike. Has anyone else come across this and figured out a solution?

http://buzzrack.com/galleries/beetle-trunk-rack-2-arms-bike-carrier/

07Lapierre · 25-04-2018 1:55pm

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

the hope wont slide down as it has a lip at the top, are there any clamps that are taller than standard, or a clamp without a lip at the top.

i swear i had every detail of this build worked out and this is after catching me

Do you have one of these?(with a curved edge) : https://goo.gl/images/MXMbWR

File away the lip on the clamp?

com1 · 25-04-2018 3:01pm

QueenMTBee wrote: »

Not a bike maintenance question but didn't think my query deserved its own thread.... I have a buzz beetle car rack but the rubber straps provided to hold the bike onto the rack are too short to go around the frame of a mountain bike. Has anyone else come across this and figured out a solution?

http://buzzrack.com/galleries/beetle-trunk-rack-2-arms-bike-carrier/

wrap a Bungee or strap around the whole shebang (place bike on rack and wrap bungee around bike and rack (where the bike sits on the rack))

Or get in touch with the manufacturers and ask for longer straps, they may be able to oblige.

iwillhtfu · 25-04-2018 9:02pm

QueenMTBee wrote: »

Not a bike maintenance question but didn't think my query deserved its own thread.... I have a buzz beetle car rack but the rubber straps provided to hold the bike onto the rack are too short to go around the frame of a mountain bike. Has anyone else come across this and figured out a solution?

http://buzzrack.com/galleries/beetle-trunk-rack-2-arms-bike-carrier/

Usually those rubber straps are adjustable on both sides. There might be extra length on the side nearest the car.

Paul_Mc1988 · 27-04-2018 1:22pm

Have ordered a 11-34 cassette with a 105 gs medium cage derailleur and a sram red 22 11speed chain for the upcoming randonnee as the steep climbs are killing my cadence and just burn the legs out when im at 60-70rpm.

Currently have an 11-28 and the plan is to measure up the the old chain and add on a link or 2. Anyone ever done this and know off the top of their head how many links would be required?

seamus · 27-04-2018 1:30pm

Six extra teeth = six extra links.

However, that assumes that the chain you currently have is correctly sized

You could end up putting on six links and then finding that there's no tension in the chain when in the lower cogs.

You'll probably need to just find the correct size yourself and not rely on the old chain:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing#article-section-4

Paul_Mc1988 · 27-04-2018 1:52pm

seamus wrote:

Six extra teeth = six extra links.However, that assumes that the chain you currently have is correctly sized.You could end up putting on six links and then finding that there's no tension in the chain when in the lower cogs.You'll probably need to just find the correct size yourself and not rely on the old chain:

Thanks seamus for the link should come in handy. Now to start worrying about indexing the new derailleur

Joe1919 · 27-04-2018 2:44pm

seamus wrote: »

Six extra teeth = six extra links.

Should that not be 3 extra links (2 or 4) as the chain only ever wraps half the number of teeth on a sprocket.

triggermortis · 28-04-2018 7:53am

When I did mine recently I was told to wrap the chain round the two largest rings (front and back) without going via the derailleur and adding 2 links to that. Worked out fine.

Edit: just read Seamus’s link -says the same thing.

h 7 · 28-04-2018 5:55pm

Is this a good bike? (In your opinion). It only has 14 gears, compared to my hybrid which I currently have, 21 gears.

Carrera Zelos Mens Road Bike - 51, 54cm Frames

Would it be slower because of less gears?

My 21 speed hybrid is 7 gears on derailleur and 3 on the front, so I assume the 14 has 2 on the front and 7 on the derailleur.

www. halfords. ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=15551&langId=-1&categoryId=212536&productId=1246237&storeId=11101

ED E · 28-04-2018 8:03pm

h 7 wrote: »

Is this a good bike? (In your opinion). It only has 14 gears, compared to my hybrid which I currently have, 21 gears.

Carrera Zelos Mens Road Bike - 51, 54cm Frames

Would it be slower because of less gears?

My 21 speed hybrid is 7 gears on derailleur and 3 on the front, so I assume the 14 has 2 on the front and 7 on the derailleur.

www. halfords. ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=15551&langId=-1&categoryId=212536&productId=1246237&storeId=11101

Wow, banned in 2 posts. GJ fella.

iwillhtfu · 28-04-2018 8:51pm

ED E wrote: »

Wow, banned in 2 posts. GJ fella.

Apparently not to knowledgeable on bikes but up to speed on our ethnic minority :eek: "Knackers smell, they are inbred. Anywhere they set up camp, they always cause trouble. They are a menace in society and a virus in life."

errlloyd · 29-04-2018 2:32pm

Kinda bike maintenance, kinda human maintenance.

So I bought a bike a few years back. I'm using it for some commuting, never going more than like 10k each way. So not far.

Anyway it's an entry level road bike, 57cm frame. I'm probably a smidgeon under 6'2. Just trying to work out if it's uncomfortable because it's too small, or because I'm not used to cycling.

ED E · 29-04-2018 2:37pm

errlloyd wrote: »

Anyway it's an entry level road bike, 57cm frame. I'm probably a smidgeon under 6'2. Just trying to work out if it's uncomfortable because it's too small, or because I'm not used to cycling.

Forget your height, its your inseam the matters. Measure that then compare to the sizing chart.

Thats only the start though, there's lots to a bike fit but the right frame size is important.

Weepsie · 30-04-2018 7:45pm

Can't find a definitive answer on this, so anyone here every used Shimano 110BCD (5 Arm) Chainrings on an SRAM chainset?

I want to replace my chainrings on a bike, and the SRAM ones are a lot more expensive. They look the same, but even within SRAM I can't be sure as some apparently only work with the YAW derailleur.

Paul_Mc1988 · 01-05-2018 9:18pm

Ok so put the new 11-34 cassette on and then sized up the chain and took of the links all with no issues, joined up with power links sagging ever so slightly. Still waiting on derailleur which should be here tomorrow hopefully.

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

cdaly_ · 02-05-2018 1:15pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

Take the block off the bike and give it a soak in wd40 or penetrating oil. Then try tapping a torx bit into the screw. That will often grab even if the allen key slips. If you have to drill, the screw may end up turning before you need to tap. You'll have to make sure to be centred if drilling to tap or you'll end up cutting new threads into part of the old screw which will be weaker.

CramCycle · 02-05-2018 1:40pm

If the screw is still Ok, just rounded, get a hacksaw and cut across the top to make a ridge for a flathead screwdriver.

Paul_Mc1988 · 02-05-2018 3:42pm

It had enough head to get a vice grips on, thanks for the ideas, All sorted now except for the rear derailleur. Ordered from merlin cycles last Friday and no sign of it. Anyone got a long cage 11 speed shimano rear derailleur i could borrow for Saturdays randonnee would leave a deposit to cover the cost until returned

saccades · 02-05-2018 7:23pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Ok so put the new 11-34 cassette on and then sized up the chain and took of the links all with no issues, joined up with power links sagging ever so slightly. Still waiting on derailleur which should be here tomorrow hopefully.

Heres where it went tits up. Put on three new brake blocks but on one the Allen key screw that holds the block in was reamed. Have a drill and a tap and die kit in the job would it be ok for me to drill the head off the screw then re-tap it?

Screw extractor is easiest way, Lidl and Aldi have them in stock quote regularly for peanuts.

Paul_Mc1988 · 03-05-2018 5:23pm

Derailleur came and installed and indexed without issues thanks mostly in part to Dan loyds GCN video.

Final question, could i use the old chain and cassette with the longer mech now if i reset the Indexing and B screw without having to switch to the short cage?

Type 17 · 03-05-2018 6:53pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

...could i use the old chain and cassette with the longer mech now if i reset the Indexing and B screw without having to switch to the short cage?

Yes, and you probably wouldn't even need to re-index, unless the axle spacing got changed (worth checking, though).

Paul_Mc1988 · 03-05-2018 6:55pm

Type 17 wrote:

Yes, and you probably wouldn't even need to re-index, unless the axle spacing got changed (worth checking, though).

Lovely thats just what i wanted to hear. Thanks

dahat · 03-05-2018 9:08pm

Each time I remove my back wheel it needs re indexing.

Am I putting the wheel back slightly incorrectly or is it part of the process?

07Lapierre · 03-05-2018 9:20pm

dahat wrote: »

Each time I remove my back wheel it needs re indexing.

Am I putting the wheel back slightly incorrectly or is it part of the process?

No...u should be able to fit/remove the wheel without indexing each time.

Difficult to know what the problem is though.

Is the derailleur hanger damaged? How old is your derailleur? Is there any sideways movement in it? You can check by holding the jockey wheel and "rock" it from side to side (towards the wheel spokes). Do this while the rear wheel is off the bike. There shouldn't be any movement....if there is, then you may need a new derailleur.

Type 17 · 03-05-2018 9:21pm

Likely the wheel is inserted a bit crooked - before closing the QR lever, lean down on the saddle and jiggle the top of the tyre to ensure it's fully settled in the dropouts.

dahat · 03-05-2018 9:29pm

I've been taking wheel off and replacing while on the bike stand so possible it's slightly out of position alright.

I have suspected the rd is cooked and will be dropping bike in to get an expert opinion tmrw as part of another issue. I have a second hand one that I hope is in better nick than the current one.

magicbastarder · 03-05-2018 9:35pm

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

dahat · 03-05-2018 9:36pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

That's actually a very good tip. Thanks.

MediaMan · 03-05-2018 10:55pm

dahat wrote: »

I've been taking wheel off and replacing while on the bike stand so possible it's slightly out of position alright.

Just to endorse what others have said, this is pretty much guaranteed to leave the wheel out of alignment. If you install a wheel when on the bike stand, you need to then put the bike on the ground, lean on the bars or saddle as appropriate and open and re-close the QR. You will feel the wheel move fully into the dropouts as you do it.

MileyReilly · 04-05-2018 7:15pm

Do you know if being very over weight would cause a wheel to untrue?

Type 17 · 04-05-2018 7:19pm

Only if the tension of the wheel was poor in the first place - ie: a lighter person can ride a bike with poorly-tensioned wheels and get away with it, but someone who weighs more will bring out any flaws the wheels have.

04-05-2018 11:31pm

Whats best practice for a bike thats going to be off the road for a prolonged period (up to a year) Enfilade jr. #2 will be here soon so I plan on scrubbing my partners bike to start and keep it covered. It will be kept in the shed which is well insulated and not leaky.

Miklos · 05-05-2018 10:09am

Deleted User wrote: »

Whats best practice for a bike thats going to be off the road for a prolonged period (up to a year) Enfilade jr. #2 will be here soon so I plan on scrubbing my partners bike to start and keep it covered. It will be kept in the shed which is well insulated and not leaky.

Make sure it's well lubricated, keep it on the small ring and smallest sprocket to keep tension on the rear mech to a minimum, keep the tyres topped up.

Wishbone Ash · 05-05-2018 11:03am

magicbastarder wrote: »

i never tighten up the QR fully until the bike is sitting on its wheels on the ground. you usually get a slight adjustment in the alignment after taking the bike off the stand and releasing and redoing the QR.

dahat wrote: »

That's actually a very good tip. Thanks.

It's also necessary to do that before adjusting brakes shoes or replacing pads as otherwise, the pads won't be contacting the rim in the exact position they should be.

retalivity · 05-05-2018 7:23pm

how difficult is it to replace a cassette and chain? Had the bike serviced in the LBS, and they were suggesting that the current drive train hasn't much left in it. They were quoting me 70 quid to replace both with their bog standard cheapo stuff, I had asked for 105 components (as its what is there already and is what the rest of the bike had), they said they would have to order it in, and id be looking at 220-250 for the job. They did not entertain the idea of labour only if i provide the parts, and we seemed to leave on bad terms for me even to suggest it, so i am now wondering if I can do it myself?

fwiw, this 105 cassette & chain set is €63, which is what id be looking to get. Is it easily done? Should i shop around for another LBS??

Weepsie · 05-05-2018 7:35pm

5-10 minute job. That's a ludicrous quote.

Plastik · 05-05-2018 7:36pm

It's a sub 10 minute job when you know what you're doing. For a first timer (you) maybe 30 min. Buy a chain whip, a Shimano lock ring tool, and a chain breaker. Might take your total spend to 100. Buy a Sram chain as they come with a quicklink to snap it back together for ultimate ease.

retalivity · 05-05-2018 7:39pm

yeah it didnt sound right, but i am a complete noob at bicycle maintenance and would normally just throw money at it to get it done. Will have a look at the other bits needed and the process, thanks

LollipopJimmy · 05-05-2018 9:35pm

retalivity wrote: »

yeah it didnt sound right, but i am a complete noob at bicycle maintenance and would normally just throw money at it to get it done. Will have a look at the other bits needed and the process, thanks

If you're near D8 I have the tools needed and happy to help.

Wishbone Ash · 06-05-2018 9:16am

Plastik wrote: »

..Buy a Sram chain as they come with a quicklink to snap it back together for ultimate ease.

KMC chains also come with a quick link and are much cheaper - I rarely pay more than €20 for one.

OP - Tiagra cassettes are fine with any Shimano groupset. I use them with 105 and Ultegra. They usually cast around €25.

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

If you're near D8 I have the tools needed and happy to help.

....Or if your in the north county Dublin area, I'll gladly do it for you.

retalivity · 06-05-2018 1:18pm

Cheers lads, i actually live in d8 as well, ill revisit it again later in the summer, may lean on someone then!

Thanks!!

saccades · 07-05-2018 8:47am

retalivity wrote: »

how difficult is it to replace a cassette and chain? Had the bike serviced in the LBS, and they were suggesting that the current drive train hasn't much left in it. They were quoting me 70 quid to replace both with their bog standard cheapo stuff, I had asked for 105 components (as its what is there already and is what the rest of the bike had), they said they would have to order it in, and id be looking at 220-250 for the job. They did not entertain the idea of labour only if i provide the parts, and we seemed to leave on bad terms for me even to suggest it, so i am now wondering if I can do it myself?

fwiw, this 105 cassette & chain set is €63, which is what id be looking to get. Is it easily done? Should i shop around for another LBS??

I'd change to another LBS, sounds like either a piss take merchant or more used to bike shaped objects where it's not worth repairing them.

When you use the chain whip for the first time wear gardening gloves or the like, if you are unused to the action required it can catch you out.

LollipopJimmy · 07-05-2018 8:14pm

retalivity wrote: »

Cheers lads, i actually live in d8 as well, ill revisit it again later in the summer, may lean on someone then!

Thanks!!

Tools are there if you need them anyway. Drop me a PM, you could live on my street lol

vg88 · 07-05-2018 10:41pm

Here's a stupid question.

Got a Giant Rapid 6 years ago and finally the tyres have gone on me. Does anyone know how to measure the size of the wheels or is there a place on the bike that states the size? I'm 184cm so the bike is fairly large.

Or are tyres the same as tubes and generally fit?

Thanks from a noob

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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