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soild fuel stove advise

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭Dinkie


    Hi Reyman...

    I've just done option number 2. I got rid of the mantle entirely and just kept the hearth. The heat is amazing (and really cheap to run).... one mistake I think I have made though is plastering up the fireplace. The plaster seems to be cracking and blistering slightly already and I've only been using it about a month.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    hi guys
    have a quick question .i am thinking of buying this stove for the sitting room
    http://www.mcdonoghdirect.ie/index.php?cat=Stoves its the oisin stove.

    its the only one that fits in the existing fireplace coz i dont wanna be ripping out the fireplace because it was pretty expensive a few years ago.my question is the stove will be only 1 inch from the end of the heartstone ,is this to near and the sides (back corners)will be tight against the sides of the chimney?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭Eurorunner


    Reyman wrote: »
    My question is: Is option 1 less efficient i.e. is a lot less heat radiated into the room? Intuitively I think option 2 has to give off more heat, because all four sides of the stove are radiating heat?
    I was doing my best to go with option 1 - but for one reason or another, ended up with stove further out than originally envisaged. The further out the better. Theres definitely a wastage of heat - with it being absorbed into the walls of the fireplace.
    Only limiting point is making sure theres enough distance between edge of hearth and door of stove - so that its safe.
    yabadabado wrote:
    its the only one that fits in the existing fireplace coz i dont wanna be ripping out the fireplace because it was pretty expensive a few years ago.my question is the stove will be only 1 inch from the end of the heartstone ,is this to near and the sides (back corners)will be tight against the sides of the chimney?
    Thats going to be a problem. Someone can come back and post exact figure but I *think* building regs is 300mm clearance from front of stove to edge of hearth. Mine ended up at 200mm - its ok but I would be happier with an extra 100mm as rest of room is carpeted.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    yabadabado wrote: »
    hi guys
    have a quick question .i am thinking of buying this stove for the sitting room
    http://www.mcdonoghdirect.ie/index.php?cat=Stoves its the oisin stove.

    its the only one that fits in the existing fireplace coz i dont wanna be ripping out the fireplace because it was pretty expensive a few years ago.my question is the stove will be only 1 inch from the end of the heartstone ,is this to near and the sides (back corners)will be tight against the sides of the chimney?

    can you remove the hood part on you fire surround. I did and it bought me another 75mm. I have around 150mm in front.

    By the way. That is expensive for an oisin.
    I got my one for 399


    the offer is still going. click the link

    http://www.gings.ie/stanley%20offers.htm#stoves


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭webels


    yabadabado wrote: »
    hi guys
    have a quick question .i am thinking of buying this stove for the sitting room
    http://www.mcdonoghdirect.ie/index.php?cat=Stoves its the oisin stove.

    its the only one that fits in the existing fireplace coz i dont wanna be ripping out the fireplace because it was pretty expensive a few years ago.my question is the stove will be only 1 inch from the end of the heartstone ,is this to near and the sides (back corners)will be tight against the sides of the chimney?

    Have you seen this one it is a nice tidy stove and can be bought from a crowd up the country and picked up in Dublin (works out a good bit cheaper than buying in or near the pale)

    http://www.tripp.ie/stoves/products

    Look at the TR3 depth is only 233mm.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    webels wrote: »
    Have you seen this one it is a nice tidy stove and can be bought from a crowd up the country and picked up in Dublin (works out a good bit cheaper than buying in or near the pale)

    http://www.tripp.ie/stoves/products

    Look at the TR3 depth is only 233mm.

    Heat Output: 3-4 KW for TR3 is quite good for its size.

    the oisin is 6KW but is 300+


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    the problem i face is we have a large sitting room (23ft x 12ft x 8ft) that has 2 doors either end and 2 large windows so i think i would need a stove with 6kw or am i completly off the mark.i was using this guide(bottom of page) which gave me 13248 BTUs and the oisin has a max of 22000BTUs.23x12x8x6=13248btu
    http://www.gings.ie/pdfs/stovesbrochure.pdf


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭Eurorunner


    yabadabado wrote: »
    the problem i face is we have a large sitting room (23ft x 12ft x 8ft) that has 2 doors either end and 2 large windows so i think i would need a stove with 6kw or am i completly off the mark.i was using this guide(bottom of page) which gave me 13248 BTUs and the oisin has a max of 22000BTUs.23x12x8x6=13248btu
    http://www.gings.ie/pdfs/stovesbrochure.pdf
    Theres a stove output calculator here if thats any use?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    yeah i have used some of those calculators and converters but i would like to hear from people that are using these stoves.i would probably go with the TR3 that was linked earlier on if it was gonna pump out enough of heat.size wise it fits perfect not sure if its gonna be powerful enough


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭webels


    yabadabado wrote: »
    yeah i have used some of those calculators and converters but i would like to hear from people that are using these stoves.i would probably go with the TR3 that was linked earlier on if it was gonna pump out enough of heat.size wise it fits perfect not sure if its gonna be powerful enough

    My room is 20ft X12 X8 and i find the TR3 gives out great heat, the room has one large bay window and two doors (one a double door to dining). I cant complain, I burn mostly timber mixed with singles (nugget sized pieces of coal) about a 70:30 ratio. Coal makes the fill last longer. The TR5 may also be option at 326mm just a bit wider and taller but the TR3 just fits my fireplace (in front of it). I have a 230mm gap to the timber floors.

    I stuck a few photos on an old tread to give an idea of what it looks like, if you read the entire thread you will see I had my problems initially with a smoke leak but the flexiliner sorted it perfectly.

    Eddie

    http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055205546


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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    Webels,
    your room is very similar to mine.as i said 2 doors either endand has 3 windows -1large (6ft x 4.5ft app.) and 2 (5ftx3ft app.).i think i will be going with the tr3.does any one have an idea what it will cost? how much would it be to install, not sure if i will take on the job myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭webels


    yabadabado wrote: »
    Webels,
    your room is very similar to mine.as i said 2 doors either endand has 3 windows -1large (6ft x 4.5ft app.) and 2 (5ftx3ft app.).i think i will be going with the tr3.does any one have an idea what it will cost? how much would it be to install, not sure if i will take on the job myself.

    yabadabado, I have just realised i went with the TR5 sorry. I just measured mine, cant think why it was the TR3. I bought mine from a crowd in Monaghan, not sure if I should post the info here. Info sent by PM. Much cheaper than buying near dublin and as I said already it can be collected in Dublin from the stove suppliers. It is not the cheapest stove but contact the crowd in Monaghan and they will give you a price. I got a guy to do it for me. The flexiliner is quite expensive but definitely good. I tried a reducer initially but never got a good fit or seal. I found cleaning with the flexiliner no bother just remove the plate at the back of the stove and clean from the top down. Suck out the soot then.

    If I did go for the TR3 I would have had >300mm gap to floor, but I guessed i might need 5KW output..


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    thats my only problem with the tr3 will there be enough heat from it for my room.i want mine to sit on the heartstone i need one that hasnt got too much dept.thanks for the info will give them a buzz.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭fmcc


    Hi Yabba the Tr5s are agood little stove with plnty of heat. One advantage is they also have a riddling grate to shake ashes down while the TR3 is static and you could get a slightly bigger log in the 5 than in the 3 but only slightly.
    I,ll pm you with more info if you need it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,520 ✭✭✭✭yabadabado


    basically what i need is a stove that will heat a room(23x12x8) and has maximum 600mm h,500mm w,350mm d.that way i dont need to do anything with the fireplace.its probably a long shot but ill keep looking and im off work for a few days so am gonna make some calls and call to a few centres in the next few days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 671 ✭✭✭webels


    yabadabado wrote: »
    basically what i need is a stove that will heat a room(23x12x8) and has maximum 600mm h,500mm w,350mm d.that way i dont need to do anything with the fireplace.its probably a long shot but ill keep looking and im off work for a few days so am gonna make some calls and call to a few centres in the next few days.

    TR5 looks a bit tight on the height front so as was mine. Not sure if the grate makes that much of a difference as I though it would initially.


  • Registered Users Posts: 960 ✭✭✭gabbo is coming


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    gabbo.

    I was comparing my gas bill to the same time last year.

    It was 90 euro for the last 2 months.
    2007 Oct-Dec bill was 240

    the house is warmer by far and the savings are obvious and the enviromental carbon issues are also a big bonus. (I use slack 25% of the time and timber 75%)
    Still very happy with my conversion.


    Initially sceptic because of the low heat from briquettes, but in the past month we've started using coal. Get the fire going with a few briqs and then lash in four or five small shovels of coat. Wait 30 mins and then start sweating for three hours. Really pleased with the whole job since started to use coal.

    You're right about the coal bouncing out. Only thing about having the fire further from the wooden floor is that it might prevent the slight warping of the floor that's occuring (like the small gaps that appear for a wooden floor under a rad)...


  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭musicmonky


    after reading the posts here. which are very interesting. some people say you might not need the chimney lined. but it looks like you do.

    http://csai.ie/
    Any retailer that advises you that you do not need to reline your chimney for a multi-fuel/wood burning stove or inset stove has absolutely no idea of chimney physics ie.,


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    musicmonky wrote: »
    after reading the posts here. which are very interesting. some people say you might not need the chimney lined. but it looks like you do.

    http://csai.ie/
    Any retailer that advises you that you do not need to reline your chimney for a multi-fuel/wood burning stove or inset stove has absolutely no idea of chimney physics ie.,

    Interesting site ,good business idea aswell considering all the new houses that have gas fire standard of chimnies.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf
    No where in this document dose it stat that if you are fitting a inset stove or multi fuel stove
    That the chimney will have to be reflued with a stainless liner
    A normal chimney that has been lined with a clay liner will not need to be relined
    Provided the stove and chimney can be cleaned the it will comply with the relevant codes


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    Heres a picture of a gas stove we put in about 12 years ago.
    stoveathomecb9.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭musicmonky


    copper12 wrote: »
    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf
    No where in this document dose it stat that if you are fitting a inset stove or multi fuel stove
    That the chimney will have to be reflued with a stainless liner
    A normal chimney that has been lined with a clay liner will not need to be relined
    Provided the stove and chimney can be cleaned the it will comply with the relevant codes

    Ok you dont need a liner if your chimney fails a smoke test. I doubt people do the test.

    Isnt 2.9 and diagram 2 showing a flue pipe
    Thats a hard to read document.

    Also stove installations require a permanent ventilation opening. That's a hole in the wall. Kinda think that defeats the whole purpose of trying to heat your house.

    this is a very good if a little waffley doc about what to do.
    they also say you need a liner or you get tar in the chimney

    http://www.euroheat.co.uk/docandpdfs2.php?pdf_real_id=1896474415IN1173%20Flue%20System%20%20Guide%20Multifuel%20Stoves%20Low%20Res.pdf&csss=docs∏=553&ftype=pdfs


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    musicmonky wrote: »
    Also stove installations require a permanent ventilation opening. That's a hole in the wall. Kinda think that defeats the whole purpose of trying to heat your house.

    http://www.euroheat.co.uk/docandpdfs2.php?pdf_real_id=1896474415IN1173%20Flue%20System%20%20Guide%20Multifuel%20Stoves%20Low%20Res.pdf&csss=docs∏=553&ftype=pdfs

    Every room in every house regardless of a stove is required under building regulation should have a vent.
    There are trade off with heat loss but it is more important to let a supply of fresh air circulate your home.

    Not just for carbon monoxide build up but also for moister control

    Ventilation and insulation ensures a healthy warm house.


    I have my stove plugged into my clay flu liner.

    I have also considered your very valid argument.
    But it triples the cost of installation. Which is a big factor in most cases.

    I think the tar build up it when the warm air of the fire below hits the cool clay flu liner. And creosote is formed. A tar like substance which when ignighted burns very hot.

    I would think strict yearly chimney cleaning and a weekly full temperature burn
    would greatly reduce the likelihood of a flu fire.


  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭musicmonky


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    Every room in every house regardless of a stove is required under building regulation should have a vent.
    .

    Thats news to me. I have a old house with no vents.
    And any new house i have seen doesnt have them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    musicmonky wrote: »
    Thats news to me. I have a old house with no vents.
    And any new house i have seen doesnt have them.

    http://aereco.com/int/ie/page/data/pdf/ROI-partF.pdf

    all habitual rooms must have a supply of fresh air.
    this obviously does not apply to old building .

    but every modern house will be well vented.

    Unless of-course there is a Heat Recovery system in place


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,650 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Guys - I just wanted to say thanks to all on this thread.
    I traveled to Gings in Portlaoise yesterday, got the Oisin stove, chimney and reducer & 12 bales of BNM briquettes all for €600.
    I couldn't find a good stove alone for less than €1000 here in Dublin.
    I fitted it all in about an hour and a bit, I needed assistance to move the 74Kg stove, and I'm now waiting for the cement to dry before I start to use it. Thanks again!


  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭musicmonky


    i dont think stoves can be retro fitted to old houses without a big expensive.

    not only do you have to fit vents , but you really do have to line the chimney
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/why-line-a-chimney.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 537 ✭✭✭G-Man


    Hi,
    I want to remove the firesurround and set the stove against the back wall, and not have it sitting out in front of the chimney breast.

    I think this will involve opening up chimney breast, up to a good height and width. Is there any standards on the height of the opening and how wide (i.e how far the stove should be away from masonry). In combination with flue lining has anyone near dublin done this and got a good service from anyone.

    Kevin


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭fmcc


    Hi kevin,
    What will restrict you is the height and width of your lentil/flue gather. This is whats holding up your chimney so its not a good idea to pul it out!!! You may gain an inch or two over the width that you have but I'd guess that would be about it. A minimum from the wall would be 2" but if the opening is not big enough to have a regular change or air around it you won't get the heat in to the room. You need ideally 10" free area around the stove to facilitate the heat to come into the room otherwise your looking at a stove sitting out in to the room to get maximum heat or an insert stove sitting into the opening and convecting the heat out.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 600 ✭✭✭Cocoon


    I'm just wondering if anybody here tryed burning anthracite coal in there multi fuel stove? I bought a bag of the stuff today and it seems to be burning ok. Just wondering if its safe to burn in a stove?


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