the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle · 15-05-2019 2:38pm

dahat wrote: »

Any of the lads racing switched to 28mm full time? Irish roads aren't great and seriously consodering a switch to 28mm clinchers if my frame will take them.

I used to ride GP4000SII 25c, which actually were almost 28c when inflated. I have the newer ones, the GP5000, great tyre so far but tempted to buy the 28c the next time as the GP5000 seem to be more correctly sized. I 'd have no issue racing on them, they certainly were not hindering me in any way.

dahat · 15-05-2019 2:44pm

@94kgs on pretty woeful Irish roads the 28mm really appeal, i may try get a cheap ass 28mm from the LBS to check for clearance. The bike is a 2016 Giant TCR Advannced 1, a quick google seems to offer little hope.

Mickiemcfist · 15-05-2019 2:44pm

cdaly_ wrote: »

Why would you? Is it too comfortable at the moment?

Haha no I've got front mudguards I can't fit on, theres about 1mm in it so rather than some bodge job said this could be a solution.

magicbastarder · 21-05-2019 3:01pm

am 99% sure the creak i am experiencing on the bike is a creaking seatpost. any tips? carbon seatpost/carbon frame. more, or less paste?

worth noting that i had to go a shade tighter than spec tightening up the seatpost clamp, other users have also complained that the seatpost slowly drops oon them on rough roads if tightened to factory spec.

EAFC_rdfl · 21-05-2019 3:24pm

Having trouble shifting to the big ring, if I'm down in the middle of the cassette the front deraileur won't shift onto the big ring. I first have to shift the back in towards the wheel, and then the front will change. Any thoughts on how to sort it?

brownian · 22-05-2019 8:11pm

You are shifting into a lower gear (bigger ring) in order to change to a bigger ring at the front? If it was that you had to change to a smaller ring at the back, I'd guess your chain was too short.

Can you move the FD by hand when the chain is on a small cog at the back? If so, maybe your FD cable needs taking out, clean and grease, re-install?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 23-05-2019 2:08pm

EAFC_rdfl wrote: »

Having trouble shifting to the big ring, if I'm down in the middle of the cassette the front deraileur won't shift onto the big ring. I first have to shift the back in towards the wheel, and then the front will change. Any thoughts on how to sort it?

It could be that the FD cable isn't tensioned correctly or that the limits are not set up correctly.

magicbastarder · 27-05-2019 4:40pm

today i did something to my bike by bringing it to the LBS to do it for me. chop an inch off the steerer tube, most of which was 'waste' anyway.

anyway - i asked derek when i was picking it up how to stop my seatpost from creaking, it creaks like bejesus especially when i'm climbing while seated. the bike is silent when i'm out of the saddle, no matter how hard i push, or how much i saw away at the bars.
he looked at me and smiled and said 'it's not your seatpost'.
'really, how can you tell?'
'your saddle is slightly loose'.

doh.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 27-05-2019 5:46pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

today i did something to my bike by bringing it to the LBS to do it for me. chop an inch off the steerer tube, most of which was 'waste' anyway.

anyway - i asked derek when i was picking it up how to stop my seatpost from creaking, it creaks like bejesus especially when i'm climbing while seated. the bike is silent when i'm out of the saddle, no matter how hard i push, or how much i saw away at the bars.
he looked at me and smiled and said 'it's not your seatpost'.
'really, how can you tell?'
'your saddle is slightly loose'.

doh.

:eek: You really shouldn't be cycling at all, sell your bikes and buy some golf clubs.

tomasrojo · 27-05-2019 7:22pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

today i did something to my bike by bringing it to the LBS to do it for me. chop an inch off the steerer tube, most of which was 'waste' anyway.

anyway - i asked derek when i was picking it up how to stop my seatpost from creaking, it creaks like bejesus especially when i'm climbing while seated. the bike is silent when i'm out of the saddle, no matter how hard i push, or how much i saw away at the bars.
he looked at me and smiled and said 'it's not your seatpost'.
'really, how can you tell?'
'your saddle is slightly loose'.

doh.

I find on one of my bikes I have to oil the junction of the clamp and the saddle rails a little to stop a creak. No idea why on one bike and none of the others.

magicbastarder · 27-05-2019 8:44pm

cheers, will file that one away. just to clarify, the saddle wasn't rattly loose, just a half turn of an allen key loose (though i haven't ridden the bike since to confirm).

Deano12345 · 29-05-2019 7:56pm

Got a bargain of a FSA power meter on adverts, BB30 so I figured it would mount on to my current cranks (Sram Force) with no problem, however, when installing the non drive side, it won't line up exactly 180 degrees opposite to the drive side, its probably out by 4 or 5 degrees.

I assume its just a case of having to buy a set of FSA cranks now?

Mapaputsi · 30-05-2019 1:44pm

How common is it for chainring bolts to creak? I’m pretty sure that mine are. I’ve recently had the bottom bracket replaced and greased up the crank in an attempt to get rid of the creak. Also greased QR skewers or front & rear wheels, removed and replaced pedals with more grease but it is still there.

Also put fresh carbon paste on the seat post to rule that out.

It seems to happen when I am in the smaller ring. I tried to remove the bolts but three of them appear to be seized and I have now stripped the Tork Bolt thread off each of them trying to get them off!

ridelikeaturtle · 30-05-2019 1:53pm

Mapaputsi wrote: »

How common is it for chainring bolts to creak? I’m pretty sure that mine are. I’ve recently had the bottom bracket replaced and greased up the crank in an attempt to get rid of the creak. Also greased QR skewers or front & rear wheels, removed and replaced pedals with more grease but it is still there.

Also put fresh carbon paste on the seat post to rule that out.

It seems to happen when I am in the smaller ring. I tried to remove the bolts but three of them appear to be seized and I have now stripped the Tork Bolt thread off each of them trying to get them off!

Not super-common but it can happen? Happened to me once; I now put white lithium on them, which also helps to keep them from seizing up.

If they're aluminum they drill out easily; if lucky, you can bash a larger Torx bit into it and avoid drilling.

magicbastarder · 30-05-2019 9:06pm

not so much a bike maintenance question, and something that has not happened me yet; i've a cheapo garmin, the edge 25 - the one that looks like the cheapo casio digital 'al qaeda' watch - if that ever runs out of battery while recording, does it have the sense to save the ride before shutting off, or do you lose it?

Type 17 · 30-05-2019 9:11pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

...the one that looks like the cheapo Casio digital 'al qaeda' watch...

For those who don't know this reference. It's an interesting story... https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-13194733

Sorry, I can't answer the Garmin question.

LollipopJimmy · 30-05-2019 9:18pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

not so much a bike maintenance question, and something that has not happened me yet; i've a cheapo garmin, the edge 25 - the one that looks like the cheapo casio digital 'al qaeda' watch - if that ever runs out of battery while recording, does it have the sense to save the ride before shutting off, or do you lose it?

It saves the ride, my buddy had one.

magicbastarder · 30-05-2019 11:55pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

'your saddle is slightly loose'.

doh.

turns out, from what i can tell, that it was the saddle itself that was creaking, rather than it being too loose.

riclad · 31-05-2019 1:46pm

I, d like to know is it possible to use a 26 inch rear wheel on a 24 inch
mountain bike ,
if i replace the 24 inch back wheel,
will the gears work as normal if i replace the wheel with a 26 inch mountain rear bike wheel .
My bike works fine , i,d just like to try this and see if it works .

magicbastarder · 31-05-2019 1:48pm

i doubt the frame could take a 26 inch wheel if it was designed for a 24 inch one.

ridelikeaturtle · 31-05-2019 1:49pm

riclad wrote: »

I, d like to know is it possible to use a 26 inch rear wheel on a 24 inch
mountain bike ,
if i replace the 24 inch back wheel,
will the gears work as normal if i replace the wheel with a 26 inch mountain rear bike wheel .
My bike works fine , i,d just like to try this and see if it works .

I'd be surprised if the wheel would even mount in the frame.

CormacH94 · 31-05-2019 7:02pm

Not strictly bike maintenance but more bike clothing maintenance (apologies if this is way off topic) - accidentally washed my clothes with fabric softener, only time I've ever done it, should I throw them in a cold wash to try and rinse the softener out or will they be okay if I'm more careful in the future?

LollipopJimmy · 31-05-2019 8:13pm

CormacH94 wrote: »

Not strictly bike maintenance but more bike clothing maintenance (apologies if this is way off topic) - accidentally washed my clothes with fabric softener, only time I've ever done it, should I throw them in a cold wash to try and rinse the softener out or will they be okay if I'm more careful in the future?

They'll be fine, I use softener the very odd time and mine is all fine.

CormacH94 · 31-05-2019 9:09pm

Cheers, was quite worried I was after ruining my good gear haha

North of 32 · 31-05-2019 9:40pm

I've gotten 4 rear flats in the last 5 weeks. 3 punctures and 1 slow leak today, not sure what the cause is yet. I don't have the patience to assess it right now as I punctured on Wednesday as well.

Am I just unlucky? Is this typical for road bikes?

I'm using 25mm Conti GP4000. There's probably around 1200 - 1500km on them. I've run the rear tyre at 80 - 100psi but it doesn't seem to matter.

Any tips? Is it just part of road biking?

31-05-2019 9:55pm

Is it the road or the rim side of the tube that was punctured or was it different ever time, interesting that it's on the same wheel so maybe a spoke?

North of 32 · 31-05-2019 10:45pm

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Is it the road or the rim side of the tube that was punctured or was it different ever time, interesting that it's on the same wheel so maybe a spoke?

First puncture was glass & stone road side
2nd puncture was a pinch flat from a slightly risen kerb
3rd was glass road side
4th, today's, is a slow leak I've yet to investigate

So, different every time. Probably just bad luck.

magicbastarder · 01-06-2019 12:36am

that's weirdly bad luck. i probably average a puncture once every 4,000km.

cletus · 04-06-2019 1:00pm

So, got a pair of Shimano mt3's today. Put the cleats in, but when I walk outside in them, I can hear the cleats on the ground. Now I know I didn't buy them for walking around in, but one of the reasons I did buy them was because the general consensus was they were easier to walk in if you got off the bike.

I assumed this meant the cleat would be far enough into the recess to not touch the ground, but the front and back tabs are touching.

Is this the norm for these types of shoes?

CramCycle · 04-06-2019 1:20pm

cletus wrote: »

So, got a pair of Shimano mt3's today. Put the cleats in, but when I walk outside in them, I can hear the cleats on the ground. Now I know I didn't buy them for walking around in, but one of the reasons I did buy them was because the general consensus was they were easier to walk in if you got off the bike.

I assumed this meant the cleat would be far enough into the recess to not touch the ground, but the front and back tabs are touching.

Is this the norm for these types of shoes?

Very few of them are recessed enough that you won't get some contact. My GIRO ones are completely recessed but once you are on even slightly uneven ground they can be heard crunching against the ground. I think the consensus is they are easier to walk in than ones without the recess.

magicbastarder · 04-06-2019 2:16pm

i just checked my (quite ancient) shimano SPD shoes; the cleats are approx 1mm below the level of the sole, i.e. if i walk on a tiled surface for example, i don't get contact with the cleats. but as Cram mentioned, if i walk on ground in any way uneven, i often do get the crunching sound.

cletus · 04-06-2019 4:00pm

Thanks lads, that's exactly what I'm experiencing. At least I know I didn't make a shïte of putting the cleats on

tuxy · 08-06-2019 7:01pm

How important is water proofing where the front derailleur calble leaves the frame?
I have a Canyon Ultimate SLX
I have some new gear cables ordered so I removed the old ones.
The rubber grommet that was attached to the plastic cable guide where the front derailleur cable leaves the frame came off, the plastic cable guide is slightly damaged so it won't connect back on

Should I try gluing it back on or just leave it off?
And what would I use to glue it?

magicbastarder · 09-06-2019 9:37pm

was kinda hard to see till i zoomed in; the rubber grommet is the lower circled item, and the upper circled item is where the derailleur cable leaves the frame?
i suspect they're not for waterproofing, but to protect the frame from cable rub.

magicbastarder · 09-06-2019 9:39pm

just changed the (caliper) brake pads on one of my bikes; the 'toe in' on the front brakes is a hell of a lot more pronounced than on the rear brakes. is this to be expected?

Dave on a bike · 09-06-2019 10:05pm

Has anyone used Cycle Superstore in Tallaght for bike servicing and if so were they good?

Usually go somewhere else but this is the only convenient option with work this week...

tuxy · 09-06-2019 10:21pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

was kinda hard to see till i zoomed in; the rubber grommet is the lower circled item, and the upper circled item is where the derailleur cable leaves the frame?
i suspect they're not for waterproofing, but to protect the frame from cable rub.

Sorry I should have outlined it like you did.
That's right, the upper one is made out of plastic and is glued to the frame from underneath. (above the bottom bracket inside the frame)

It should look like this

The plastic guide protects the frame from cable rub and since there is no way to replace it the rubber boot was to prevent grit getting in and damaging the plastic. I will have to find a way to glue that boot or a replacement to the plastic.
Do you think super glue might work or would I need something more specialised?
There's almost no plastic left for the boot to sit on so I'm worried it will only glue to the paint of the frame which may come off after a while.

CramCycle · 09-06-2019 11:33pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

just changed the (caliper) brake pads on one of my bikes; the 'toe in' on the front brakes is a hell of a lot more pronounced than on the rear brakes. is this to be expected?

I had the same with my new Shimano brakes, you should be able to adjust them to normal without issue.

Dave on a bike wrote: »

Has anyone used Cycle Superstore in Tallaght for bike servicing and if so were they good?

Usually go somewhere else but this is the only convenient option with work this week...

Only used them twice but found the lads in there quick and good, even took me in to show me what they done.

mirrormatrix · 10-06-2019 8:34am

Have a slight issue with my rear brake which is frustrating me. I have Miche Performance long reach brakes on the bike (came with the bike) to allow clearance for mudguards. The rear brake pads (on the drive side only) are about 2-3 mm too short when the pads are at the lowest possible setting. The non drive side pad is hitting the rim square in the middle so no issue there.

Have checked and wheel seems to be fully in the dropouts. Any suggestions on what the issue might be? I changed the pads that came with the bike (Shimano I think) for some Kool Stops, so perhaps the ones that came with the bike were slightly lower, i'm not sure. The fact that only one side is off is very strange to me though!

magicbastarder · 10-06-2019 8:37am

that's a bit of a coincidence, the brakes i mentioned a few posts before yours are miche performance long reach brakes too.
on the rear, the minor issue i have is that i have to position the pads at the lowest possible position in the calipers. i'd like to drop them a mm or two lower, but can't. but they're not mismatched hitting the rim like yours.

mirrormatrix · 10-06-2019 8:44am

That's interesting. Do you have the cartridge brake pads on yours as well?

I'll have to check this evening that the brakes are centered, but I think they are.

Found this guy with the exact same problem on another website

https://forum.bikeradar.com/viewtopic.php?t=12935545

magicbastarder · 10-06-2019 9:47am

the pads that were on it were the ones shipped with them, judging by the photo on the halford's page; i swapped in bigger brake pads yesterday.

riclad · 25-06-2019 2:05pm

i have a mens mountain bike large with a broken gear set.
The gear set is brand Sram x4 .
how much would it cost to get a new gear set fitted on the bike.
Can i swap in an old gear set from another large mountain bike,
or do i need to get an identical sram x4 gear set .
The wheels on the bike are 26 inch ,standard bike wheels.
i have a wheel that has a hex key type central rod.
like this, https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/hex-key-wheel-skewers-any-good.100687/
how much does a replacement wheel nut cost ?

magicbastarder · 25-06-2019 2:16pm

which part of the gears are broken? the rear derailleur?

riclad · 25-06-2019 2:29pm

yes, The rear derailleur is broken ,it has a label on it , Sram x4.

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sram-x4-box-large/136002596/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=2714926&country=ie&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_qqqxeGE4wIVyb3tCh1AtQiJEAQYAiABEgJo6_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

magicbastarder · 25-06-2019 4:31pm

should not be too difficult to swap over; you'd be looking at parts cost plus whatever the bike shop charges for labour. maybe between €15 and €30 (for labour) if it's just the rear derailleur.

dahat · 25-06-2019 7:44pm

Creaky press fit BB, can it be regressed or just a new one altogether?

Type 17 · 25-06-2019 7:54pm

Re-greasing should be fine, but clean really well the parts of the BB & frame that touch, before using clean grease.

riclad · 26-06-2019 3:44pm

Can i use the derailleur from any old mountain bike or does it need
to be very similar or identical to the Sram x4 type derailleur .
i replaced a derailleur before a few years ago ,just using a pliers .,to swap in the derailleur cable .
And it worked .
But it was an older type derailleur .

keane2097 · 26-06-2019 9:55pm

I bought a second hand bike lately that I'm fairly sure was hardly ever used. It's got disk brakes so I'm planning to stick a pair of 30c tyres on it. Should I definitely change the tubes as well or is that a sales pitch?

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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