soild fuel stove advise

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:20pm

mattcullen wrote: »

so is it possible to season wood to an acceptable level in our climate?
I'm planning on buying my wood this winter seasoned or not and stack it so that it will be dry next winter.

Yes naturally drying the fuel will bring the moisture levels down to an acceptable level, but what the report I was reading said was that taking the moisture content below this was of no benefit, as the humidity would bring the moisture content back up to a par with the climate it was being stored in, hence a waste of money buying kiln dried product.

Hope the Morso is going well. How did you eventually vent the stove..off the top or back?

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:28pm

ttm wrote: »

Since when has steel been a suitable material for a flue?

Salt has very little effect on cast iron, at least after 10 or more years in an old Stanley stove and if a free source of timber is going to damage a liner I'm glad I never bothered.

Steel, mild steel, has been used for many years as a starter pipe, with an enamel coating to give it a gloss or matt finish, and some companies, including one I dare not mention by name

use stainless steel as starter pipe components instead of mild steel.

I accept that free fuel as is hard to pass up on, but the manufacturers instructions of MANY different brands of stove I have worked with over the 20 years I've been a chimney technician would tell you to avoid drift wood, treated wood etc...so there is obviously a reason why! But there is always going to be users who knows better, or care less and do what they like.

sooty_soupy · 16-12-2009 9:30pm

I'm going home guys....dinner is calling, and it's been a long day in the office.

Catch up later

mattcullen · 16-12-2009 9:57pm

Hope the Morso is going well. How did you eventually vent the stove..off the top or back?

vented from the top using two 45 degree bends. I'm very happy with it. I was a bit worried what the draw would be like as the open fire had downdrafts sometimes but the draw is great.

Get the plate in now and I'll be sorted. Is masterboard the same thing as fireboard by the way?

00jes · 04-01-2010 4:24pm

Sorry to gatecrash but i have a Important question to ask as im about to fit a stove myself in the next few days.
My stove will be sitting off the ground on a granit shelf i have had made specially. When i bought the stove i was told that it is best to use vitrious ennamel as the chimney.
I then bought enough to get me into the attic. my plan was to attach the solid fuel twin wall flue to the vitrious ennamel and bring it through the roof. i need to get an addaptor mand to marry the diffrent flue together. when i told the companey what i was doing they said that you can not bring vitrious ennamel through the ceeling and that i should buy a firestop and connect the vitrious ennamel and twin wall under the celling line.

is this correct and if so is there anyway around this problem. I really dont want the twinwall flue to be seen in my sitting room.

Any help much appreciated.:D

CJhaughey · 04-01-2010 6:48pm

They are correct, the twinwall runs a lot cooler externally than the black vitreous.
The adaptor sits on a metal mesh and protrudes through the ceiling about 150mm or so, but it is only single wall at that point not twinwall.
Once it enters the ceiling it becomes twinwall.

00jes · 06-01-2010 9:52am

Thanks for the reply.
Does anyone know where i can get one of these adaptors

gsxr1 · 06-01-2010 11:58am

00jes wrote: »

Thanks for the reply.
Does anyone know where i can get one of these adaptors

anyone who sells stoves will have them.

the homevalue hardware shops have them . Not sure if they have a branch in Mayo.

CJhaughey · 06-01-2010 12:53pm

They should be sold by the manufacturer of the twinwall flue.
The flue I used is called Poujoulat (French)

peemp · 06-01-2010 3:27pm

00jes wrote: »

Sorry to gatecrash but i have a Important question to ask as im about to fit a stove myself in the next few days.
My stove will be sitting off the ground on a granit shelf i have had made specially. When i bought the stove i was told that it is best to use vitrious ennamel as the chimney.
I then bought enough to get me into the attic. my plan was to attach the solid fuel twin wall flue to the vitrious ennamel and bring it through the roof. i need to get an addaptor mand to marry the diffrent flue together. when i told the companey what i was doing they said that you can not bring vitrious ennamel through the ceeling and that i should buy a firestop and connect the vitrious ennamel and twin wall under the celling line.

is this correct and if so is there anyway around this problem. I really dont want the twinwall flue to be seen in my sitting room.

Any help much appreciated.:D

You need to change over to the twinwall flue around 150mm below the ceiling line. the reason being that the vitreanous enamel pipe can get as hot if not hotter than your stove, so having that hot metal close to ceiling joist isn't really that great an idea. you can always spray the silver twinwall with high temprature stove paint to lessen the impact of the seeing the joint of the 2 flues.

00jes · 06-01-2010 4:11pm

Thanks for all the advice. I just got off the phone with my supplier and have ordered the fire stop. i guess it comes down to wanting to feel safe rather than the visiual impact.

Thanks for the help and idea's.

Bob_Harris · 13-01-2010 2:17pm

Right so I'm about to install our Stanley Oisin but I have some questions.

The "flue spigot" on the Oisin is 6", while the flue kit I bought with the stove is 5" in diameter. Not exactly a tight fit with 1/2" of air between the parts.

I tried stuffing some fire rope in and it gave a decent seal, but surely over time the fire rope will lose its bulk and the flue will be very loose. I could use fire seal sealant along with the rope, but is it normal to have a 5" flue going into a 6" opening at the back of the stove?

The flue kit comes with a straight part which goes into the back of the stove, a 90 degree bend which slides into the straight part, and a reducer which fits inside clay pot cavity of the chimney then onto the 90 degree bend.

Problem is the fireback is in the way and I cannot get the reducer up the chimney. I don't really think I want to knock out the fireback. Is there any way around this?

Sorry if these question have been asked before, but it's a very long thread.

CJhaughey · 13-01-2010 2:28pm

You would want the proper sized fittings to go together. 5" is 5" 6" is 6" and they are not compatible! Stuffing it with fire rope or cement is risking carbon monoxide poisoning amongst other risks.

Bob_Harris · 13-01-2010 2:31pm

Hum, you'd assume the hardware store would give you compatible parts.

So if I have to return the flue kit, is there some kind of flexable one I could get to avoid knocking out the fireback?

demanufactured · 13-01-2010 2:31pm

Bob_Harris wrote: »

Right so I'm about to install our Stanley Oisin but I have some questions.

The "flue spigot" on the Oisin is 6", while the flue kit I bought with the stove is 5" in diameter. Not exactly a tight fit with 1/2" of air between the parts.

I tried stuffing some fire rope in and it gave a decent seal, but surely over time the fire rope will lose its bulk and the flue will be very loose. I could use fire seal sealant along with the rope, but is it normal to have a 5" flue going into a 6" opening at the back of the stove?

The flue kit comes with a straight part which goes into the back of the stove, a 90 degree bend which slides into the straight part, and a reducer which fits inside clay pot cavity of the chimney then onto the 90 degree bend.

Problem is the fireback is in the way and I cannot get the reducer up the chimney. I don't really think I want to knock out the fireback. Is there any way around this?

Sorry if these question have been asked before, but it's a very long thread.

Unfortunatly no,You will need tro knock out the fireback to get her in.
Also you sghouldnt be using a 90 degreee bend , rather you should have 2 45 degree bends.

fmcc · 13-01-2010 2:33pm

CJhaughey wrote: »

You would want the proper sized fittings to go together. 5" is 5" 6" is 6" and they are not compatible! Stuffing it with fire rope or cement is risking carbon monoxide poisoning amongst other risks.

+1. Also Bob you will need to break out fireback no other way of getting adapter up in to the flue. There should be a lot of sand/fill behind this so wear a mask.
You could get a cover plate made up to cover off the opening afterwards. the flue needs to be securly attached to the stove to allow for movement when cleaning with brushes and rods at a later date.

Bob_Harris · 13-01-2010 2:58pm

Should the steel flue pipe fit over the flue spigot on the stove, or should in slide inside it.

Just looking at a piece of paper that came with the flue kit showing difference sizes and the next flue size up (149mm inside diameter) looks like it will fit over the spigot (148mm outside diameter).

I think I read in the first few pages of this thread that some guy used flexable liner in the chimney which came straight down to the 90 degree bend. (i.e. 45 + 45 degree, thanks demanufactured :pac:)

This would avoid knocking of the fireback. Good / Bad solution?

CJhaughey · 13-01-2010 3:18pm

You can get flexible stainless liner in various sizes, that might do the trick, awkward to sweep though.

ttm · 13-01-2010 3:39pm

Bob_Harris wrote: »

Right so I'm about to install our Stanley Oisin but I have some questions.

The "flue spigot" on the Oisin is 6", while the flue kit I bought with the stove is 5" in diameter. Not exactly a tight fit with 1/2" of air between the parts.

I tried stuffing some fire rope in and it gave a decent seal, but surely over time the fire rope will lose its bulk and the flue will be very loose. I could use fire seal sealant along with the rope, but is it normal to have a 5" flue going into a 6" opening at the back of the stove?

The flue kit comes with a straight part which goes into the back of the stove, a 90 degree bend which slides into the straight part, and a reducer which fits inside clay pot cavity of the chimney then onto the 90 degree bend.

Problem is the fireback is in the way and I cannot get the reducer up the chimney. I don't really think I want to knock out the fireback. Is there any way around this?

Sorry if these question have been asked before, but it's a very long thread.

Get the tape measure out as the Oisin takes a 5 inch flue, and as far as I can remember the "adaptor" you get with that stove is very sloppy fit with a 5inch pipe on the inside of it and that leaves plenty of room for fire cement.

fmcc · 13-01-2010 3:43pm

Bob if using the liner it needs to go all the way to the top be sealed at both ends and backfilled with vermiculite. You would also probably need and adapter to go from the spigot to the flexi to get a perfect seal.

Bob_Harris · 13-01-2010 4:00pm

ttm wrote: »

Get the tape measure out as the Oisin takes a 5 inch flue, and as far as I can remember the "adaptor" you get with that stove is very sloppy fit with a 5inch pipe on the inside of it and that leaves plenty of room for fire cement.

It's a fair bit over 5" in fairness. ~148mm OD and ~145mm inside.

ttm · 13-01-2010 4:05pm

Just measured one myself which was almost the same size. Its not a great spigot/adaptor to conect to but it is slightly tapered on the inside towards the bottom and if you are using 5 inch flue it goes on the inside (obvious ?) it is a sloppy fit but if you are using fire cement you need a decent gap to get it into to make a seal. If you put 6inch over the outside you can't seal it very easily.

Carlow52 · 13-01-2010 9:53pm

this is the install manual
http://www.waterfordstanley.com/SiteImages/Site_131/PDF/OisinSF.pdf

page 5

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES

Side wall to stove 20” 510mm
Back wall to stove non-boiler model 15” 380mm

Back wall to stove boiler model 12” 305mm

these are the current regs
http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf

which include

2.5 Direction - Flues should be vertical
wherever possible and where a bend is necessary, it
should not make an angle of more than 37.5° with
the vertical. Horizontal flue runs should be avoided
except in the case of a back outlet appliance, when
the length of the horizontal section should not

exceed 150 mm.

so back exit may not work.

In addition unless the back exit pipe is well supported the fire cement will crack and fall out.

single skin SS flue will only last 3- 5 years unless it is cleaned 2 times a year and no slow/ overnight burning

charlie b · 29-01-2010 1:11pm

hi there how can i veiw fotos as i am about to do same
charlie

ttm · 29-01-2010 1:29pm

charlie b wrote: »

hi there how can i veiw fotos as i am about to do same
charlie

Do you mean photos or pdf files from Carlow52's post?

For pdf files you need a adobe acrobat reader get it from www.adobe.com its free.

charlie b · 29-01-2010 1:39pm

cheers ttm

Rainbowsend · 29-01-2010 6:18pm

.....we have just finished installing a stove, messy but not hard, if your chimney is in good condition there is no need for an inner liner, you can buy a chimney pot adaptor which fits snugly into the chimney, seal with fire cement, this connects to either a cast iron elbow if you are connecting the stove from the rear you may need a straight cast iron flue to bring it out to the stove, this is sealed with special rope and fire cement, if you are connecting to the top of the stove you will just need the chimney adaptor and a straight flue. Total cost for us was 439.00 for the Mulberry stove (Joyce) 59.00 for the chimney adaptor and 50.00 for the straight flue and another 50.00 for the elbow.

Fantastic heat of it delighted with it, just one thing we didnt really leave enough room at the back of the stove and find the wall gets very hot, and might eventually crack the plaster, looking for a heat resistant paint to use on it at the moment. If anyone knows where this can be got?

charlie b · 29-01-2010 7:35pm

thank you for your reply.sounds exactly what i am hopeing to do.going with the stanley oishin as its smaller than the rest and will fit in easier going to fireplaces direct in Drogheda on Sunday do you think 150mm between the side of stove and the wall surrounds.by any chance did you use fire proofplaster board?

Rainbowsend · 29-01-2010 8:54pm

charlie b wrote: »

thank you for your reply.sounds exactly what i am hopeing to do.going with the stanley oishin as its smaller than the rest and will fit in easier going to fireplaces direct in Drogheda on Sunday do you think 150mm between the side of stove and the wall surrounds.by any chance did you use fire proofplaster board?

We took the complete fireplace out, so was left with large cavity which we bricked up and plastered over, so the stove is completely in the room, much better heat that way! So we didnt need plasterboard, but if the stove is 8" from a non-combustible wall it is fine (ours is a little under hence the hot wall!)

As someone previously stated, make sure the elbow (if used) is well supported, we built up a support from blocks.

PS....the Oisin is about the same size as the Mulberry Joyce, made by ex-employees of Stanley, plenty big enough for the average size room, our room would be 12 x 15 but we leave the door to the hall open (would be far to hot to close anyway) and it heats the whole house, (bungalow)

charlie b · 30-01-2010 12:58pm

thanks again rainbowsend i will check out the mulberry joyce but will be limited to space .
i am taking out fireplace and chisseling out as much as i can without disturbing the lintel i am told these are about 30 inchs from floor and are 26 ins wide ,if i have eneogh room at the sides i will use brick if not i here about fireproof board and paint
charlie

soild fuel stove advise

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