the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

07Lapierre · 22-03-2021 11:16pm

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Looking for some opinions/advice, I've a Wilier Cento1SR (old setup below) and am in the process of swapping out the handlebars. I've the brakes set up with the left to the back, I’m just wondering if there's any proper way to cable it as the frame design is right to the back?
I'm just trying not to have frame rub from the cable. I'll be heat shrinking the cable/di2 wire once I've it cut a bit as the new handlebars run the cables internally. Any advice much appreciated

What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

velo.2010 · 22-03-2021 11:35pm

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

07Lapierre · 22-03-2021 11:41pm

velo.2010 wrote: »

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

Ah ok. I have a few bikes. Some have the rear brake on the left, others have it on the right. personally, I think I'd wire the rear brake to the left shifter if the cable entered the frame on the right side. If the cable entered the frame on the left, then I'd wire the rear brake to the right shifter. I'd do this to avoid a tight bend in the cable. But TBH, I don't think it makes a blind bit of difference which way you do it.

2 Wheels Good · 23-03-2021 12:40am

velo.2010 wrote: »

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.

velo.2010 · 23-03-2021 12:51am

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.

Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?

2 Wheels Good · 23-03-2021 11:33am

velo.2010 wrote: »

Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?

Will have none, have fitted aero bars, Wiggle/Prime Primavera. Inside hole is where the cable comes out.

griffdaddy · 23-03-2021 1:10pm

iamtony wrote: »

I'm scouring you tube for a video on the pad replacement procedure and I can't find one, it's shocking actually seeing how popular they are. All the videos saying brake change are about upgrading.
I'd say your best bet to loosen the grub screw is to try get a bit of penetrating oil on it without getting it on any thing else obviously and then just go for it. Have you got decent T bar style Allen keys?

I can't help you directly with this but I have a D4S and I'm in a Facebook Group that pretty much ahs the answer to all of these questions. They include links to spare parts on aliexpress etc.

It's called 'Fiido e-bike owners group'.

Rowley Birkin QC · 23-03-2021 4:44pm

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

Fill the scrubber with your chosen cleaner, stand the bike against a wall, put the scrubber in place and turn your pedal crank arm backwards for 30 or 40 revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

When it dries, apply your choice of lube.

Then look up how to remove rear wheel and clean the cassette - you'll hate how filthy it looks in comparison to the chain :-)

So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

cletus · 23-03-2021 5:00pm

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

I use the dry lube version (yellow lid, I think)

I used the wet lube once, and as you said, a magnet for dirt, but also a pain to clean off.

When are you flipping your stem:D

CramCycle · 23-03-2021 5:12pm

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower

Type 17 · 23-03-2021 5:20pm

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

After trying loads of different solutions, I've gone for a balance between having to clean and re-lube a bit more often, and it being a quick and easy job - I use a wax-based lube approximately every 200-250km:

Here's the chain after about 250km of autumn roads:

Here it is after a good wiping with a dry rag:

Apply a drop of milky wax to each roller (2 mins):

Back-pedal slowly a few full chain rotations, to work the fluid in between the plates and rollers, without flicking it off everywhere:

An hour later (I usually do it in the evening before the next ride), it's all dried in, and is ready to ride:

It doesn't appear fully clean, but the areas that need to be clean (between the plates and rollers) are actually clean and lubed, so wear is minimal.

Rowley Birkin QC · 23-03-2021 5:21pm

cletus wrote: »

When are you flipping your stem:D

This feels like a very personal question.

I did do a chain stretch test and have now convinced myself that I need a new chain. I also took a look at the teeth on the cogs and briefly decided I needed new ones until I looked at the prices of same. :eek:

CramCycle wrote: »

Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower

Cool, I'll pick some up this evening and go at it again. Thanks!

07Lapierre · 23-03-2021 5:22pm

Wet lube in Winter, Dry lube in Summer.
Also i recommend using Wet Lube sparingly (one drop every 2nd link) , use Dry lube liberally (one drop per link)

cletus · 23-03-2021 5:26pm

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

CramCycle · 23-03-2021 6:06pm

I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.

07Lapierre · 23-03-2021 8:30pm

cletus wrote: »

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

CramCycle wrote: »

I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.

Ah...ganging up on me eh?

wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

Any recommendations for wax lube?

07Lapierre · 23-03-2021 8:32pm

cletus wrote: »

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

I'd say that's because you used too much lube.

Type 17 · 23-03-2021 8:34pm

It's a chain-gang

I bought two bottles of Smoove on Amazon in... #checks Amazon order history# - Feb 2019, and I just finished the first one this week.

Dark sun · 23-03-2021 10:34pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Ah...ganging up on me eh? wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

Any recommendations for wax lube?

I use Squirt liquid wax lube and am very happy with the results it comes highly recommended, keeps the chain and cassette super clean, just a quick wipe down and reapply every 200k. Very impressed, no more oily mess. Here’s a photo of my cassette after 200k this week.

CramCycle · 23-03-2021 10:39pm

White lightening Clean Ride, about a tenner a bottle. A bottle lasts at least a year for me, sometimes alot longer.

adrian522 · 24-03-2021 1:19pm

Am I over inflating my tires?

Recently changed to a new wheel, but twice now the tube has punctured while the bike is just sitting in the halllway. I'm in the kitchen and I hear the tire deflating.

Is there anything else that could be causing this? Seems really weird.

I had been inflating to 115, but recently changed to 100, but happened again yesterday.

MojoMaker · 24-03-2021 1:26pm

What size and brand of tube and tyre?

I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.

magicbastarder · 24-03-2021 1:27pm

have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?

Type 17 · 24-03-2021 1:30pm

Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.

Mundo7976 · 24-03-2021 1:56pm

Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?

adrian522 · 24-03-2021 1:56pm

MojoMaker wrote: »

What size and brand of tube and tyre?

I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.

Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say.
Tube in continental Road Tube Presta.

magicbastarder wrote: »

have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?

I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something.

Type 17 wrote: »

Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.

I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.

magicbastarder · 24-03-2021 2:04pm

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?

i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference!
i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...

Mundo7976 · 24-03-2021 2:12pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference!
i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...

Cheers.
Yeah dont want to be messing with them really. Ive reseated the wheel a few times in the dropouts to be sure i hadn't got that off.
I really notice the difference when lookimg down from behind the seat, but then it only 1mm when i measure it.
It shouldn't effect performance of the bike though?

magicbastarder · 24-03-2021 2:14pm

are the dropouts clean?
don't forget that it can just take something tiny in the dropouts to have a 1mm effect at the rim.

Mundo7976 · 24-03-2021 2:15pm

Yep. Gave the whole bike a proper wipe down and clean last week!

loyatemu · 24-03-2021 2:37pm

is it really necessary to go to 100psi on a 25mm tyre? It depends how heavy you are but I was going 80 rear and 75 front before I switched to 28mm and I have those even lower.

fat bloke · 24-03-2021 2:48pm

adrian522 wrote: »

Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say.
Tube in continental Road Tube Presta.

I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something.

I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.

If it happened twice then you should have two tubes to compare and see if it holed in the same place?

adrian522 · 24-03-2021 2:52pm

loyatemu wrote: »

is it really necessary to go to 100psi on a 25mm tyre? It depends how heavy you are but I was going 80 rear and 75 front before I switched to 28mm and I have those even lower.

I've no idea. I've never had issues with it before. I could drop it down to 80 to see if that makes a difference.

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 7:55pm

More stupid questions for the no stupid questions thread!

I have two sets of wheels, both 700c.
1 is set are a 2006 era bontrager with decent braking surface and the wrong hubs for the job.
This other are older track style hubs with knackered rims and dangerously bad braking surface...
You probably get where I'm going here.

How mad would I have to be to attempt to make a good set from both?
Will it work and will I need a new set of spokes, etc?

Type 17 · 25-03-2021 8:15pm

If you're really lucky, the ERDs of the two sets of rims will be the same, and you can swap the good rims onto the wheels with the correct hubs.

However, it's more likely that they're not, which would mean measuring up (online spoke-length calculators are available), and ordering the right length spokes to rebuild the set of wheels you want.

ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the rims from one of the seats of a given nipple directly across the centre of the rim to its opposite nipple-seat (more details in link).

AhhHere · 25-03-2021 8:42pm

Picked up a Bike to Work roadbike recently. Ordered some bits on Decathlon and been out a few times a week since.

My stupid question is, why dont all clothes have back pockets? I bloody love them.

But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 8:46pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you're really lucky, the ERDs of the two sets of rims will be the same, and you can swap the good rims onto the wheels with the correct hubs.

However, it's more likely that they're not, which would mean measuring up (online spoke-length calculators are available), and ordering the right length spokes to rebuild the set of wheels you want.

ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the rims from one of the seats of a given nipple directly across the centre of the rim to its opposite nipple-seat (more details in link).

That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!

Type 17 · 25-03-2021 8:47pm

AhhHere wrote: »

...But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?

This Park Tool video probably explains it better than any amount of typing on here. Also confirm that you can remove the wheel from your particular type of bike.

PS: Rear jersey pockets are brilliant, but be careful when sitting down on a chair if you've got fragile or sharp items in the pockets

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 8:51pm

AhhHere wrote: »

Picked up a Bike to Work roadbike recently. Ordered some bits on Decathlon and been out a few times a week since.

My stupid question is, why dont all clothes have back pockets? I bloody love them.

But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?

I am guilty of risking the flat but then, we can't go more than 5km anyway...

Your basics are going to be:
Plastic tyre levers, minimum two but I prefer 3.
A new inner tube. (And a repair kit at home to save the old one as a new spare)
A means of inflation. Co2 cartridges are convenient, a good mini pump is for ever..

That's assuming your wheels are quick release, if not you'll have to bring the correct tool to remove your wheel.

cletus · 25-03-2021 9:07pm

CianRyan wrote: »

That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!

Are you planning on rebuilding the wheels yourself?

It's something I'd love to try

AhhHere · 25-03-2021 9:15pm

Type 17 wrote: »

This Park Tool video probably explains it better than any amount of typing on here. Also confirm that you can remove the wheel from your particular type of bike.

PS: Rear jersey pockets are brilliant, but be careful when sitting down on a chair if you've got fragile or sharp items in the pockets

That is an excellent video thanks. Need to pick up a multi tool and spare tire. Wheels aren;t quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?

Sorry these are reall stupid questions. Thanks for your patience.

Type 17 · 25-03-2021 9:21pm

AhhHere wrote: »

...Wheels aren't quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?

Not if the wheels have nuts, like the bottom-left bit of the video at 1:11 - in that case, you'd need to bring a (usually) 15mm spanner.

If they're not quick-release, and they don't have nuts, then they are probably thru-axles, in which case, the multi-tool should have a suitable Allen key.

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 9:33pm

cletus wrote: »

Are you planning on rebuilding the wheels yourself?

It's something I'd love to try

That's the plan, it's two sets that would otherwise sit there for years or get thrown in the dump so I've nothing to lose but the spokes.

Sure eh... How hard could it be?

AhhHere · 25-03-2021 9:33pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Not if the wheels have nuts, like the bottom-left bit of the video at 1:11 - in that case, you'd need to bring a (usually) 15mm spanner.

If they're not quick-release, and they don't have nuts, then they are probably thru-axles, in which case, the multi-tool should have a suitable Allen key.

Nice one. Checked there and back is quick release front is through axle I assume. I could see right through it

So you're on the button. Thanks

Type 17 · 25-03-2021 9:37pm

AhhHere wrote: »

Nice one. Checked there and back is quick release front is through axle I assume. I could see right through it So you're on the button. Thanks

If you can see through it and it said 15mm on the end, it's a thru-axle, but the 15mm refers to the outside diameter of the thru-axle spindle itself - you'll need some size of Allen key to open it.

cletus · 25-03-2021 9:40pm

CianRyan wrote: »

That's the plan, it's two sets that would otherwise sit there for years or get thrown in the dump so I've nothing to lose but the spokes.

Sure eh... How hard could it be?

Fair play, make sure you update the progress

Eamonnator · 25-03-2021 9:46pm

CianRyan wrote: »

That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!

I hope you've counted as well as measured.

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 9:53pm

I'll have done neither until tomorrow evening.

I'm a gluten for punishment as you can see...

Large bottle small glass · 25-03-2021 10:00pm

CianRyan wrote: »

More stupid questions for the no stupid questions thread!

I have two sets of wheels, both 700c.
1 is set are a 2006 era bontrager with decent braking surface and the wrong hubs for the job.
This other are older track style hubs with knackered rims and dangerously bad braking surface...
You probably get where I'm going here.

How mad would I have to be to attempt to make a good set from both?
Will it work and will I need a new set of spokes, etc?

Very very unlikely spoke length is the same, even if the spoke count was.

Go away and get one or both online books that are available, by Roger Musson or Jobst Brandt or it'll probably end in tears no matter what parts you use.

Once you get what a wire wheel is and how it works it'll help with building. It's a pre tensioned tensile structure; when the compressive load is at it's highest (6o'clock) the tension in wheel is high enough for that spoke to remain in tension.

If you have good hubs you'll put a wheelset together for €100 if you shop around. High spoke count built 3 cross and follow the instructions and you will be grand. It's forgiving for amateurs like us.

There is a rare breed that can build good wheels (even low spoke count) without ever reading a thing or having any tools, but they are super rare. The one guy I know like that is stone fcuking mad

ugo.santalucia and the cycleclinic have posted a lot on
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13020726/handbuilt-wheels-the-big-thread

CianRyan · 25-03-2021 10:24pm

Thanks for the reading materials, I'll dive into that before I dive into the wheels.
I would also be close to stone mad, I have for example built a car loom out of spare scraps of cabling I had in my tool box. :pac:

The principal of balancing tension isn't lost on me either, mechanical engineering is a great interest of mine. That's partly why I thought I'd try and build my own wheels rather than buy a new set!

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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