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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

16768707273124

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Looking for some opinions/advice, I've a Wilier Cento1SR (old setup below) and am in the process of swapping out the handlebars. I've the brakes set up with the left to the back, I’m just wondering if there's any proper way to cable it as the frame design is right to the back?
    I'm just trying not to have frame rub from the cable. I'll be heat shrinking the cable/di2 wire once I've it cut a bit as the new handlebars run the cables internally. Any advice much appreciated

    Cabling.jpg

    What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    "What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

    I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

    FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    velo.2010 wrote: »
    "What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

    I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

    FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

    Ah ok. I have a few bikes. Some have the rear brake on the left, others have it on the right. personally, I think I'd wire the rear brake to the left shifter if the cable entered the frame on the right side. If the cable entered the frame on the left, then I'd wire the rear brake to the right shifter. I'd do this to avoid a tight bend in the cable. But TBH, I don't think it makes a blind bit of difference which way you do it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭2 Wheels Good


    velo.2010 wrote: »
    "What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

    I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

    FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.
    Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.

    Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭2 Wheels Good


    velo.2010 wrote: »
    Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?
    Will have none, have fitted aero bars, Wiggle/Prime Primavera. Inside hole is where the cable comes out.

    IMG-9783.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,417 ✭✭✭griffdaddy


    iamtony wrote: »
    I'm scouring you tube for a video on the pad replacement procedure and I can't find one, it's shocking actually seeing how popular they are. All the videos saying brake change are about upgrading.
    I'd say your best bet to loosen the grub screw is to try get a bit of penetrating oil on it without getting it on any thing else obviously and then just go for it. Have you got decent T bar style Allen keys?

    I can't help you directly with this but I have a D4S and I'm in a Facebook Group that pretty much ahs the answer to all of these questions. They include links to spare parts on aliexpress etc.

    It's called 'Fiido e-bike owners group'.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,248 ✭✭✭Rowley Birkin QC


    Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

    Fill the scrubber with your chosen cleaner, stand the bike against a wall, put the scrubber in place and turn your pedal crank arm backwards for 30 or 40 revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

    When it dries, apply your choice of lube.

    Then look up how to remove rear wheel and clean the cassette - you'll hate how filthy it looks in comparison to the chain :-)

    pdGn4zP.jpg
    6DCGh72.jpg
    qdkXQkd.jpg

    So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

    I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

    I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

    Thanks again for the help!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,049 ✭✭✭cletus


    pdGn4zP.jpg
    6DCGh72.jpg
    qdkXQkd.jpg

    So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

    I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

    I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

    Thanks again for the help!

    I use the dry lube version (yellow lid, I think)

    I used the wet lube once, and as you said, a magnet for dirt, but also a pain to clean off.

    When are you flipping your stem:D


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,152 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

    Thanks again for the help!

    Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

    After trying loads of different solutions, I've gone for a balance between having to clean and re-lube a bit more often, and it being a quick and easy job - I use a wax-based lube approximately every 200-250km:

    Here's the chain after about 250km of autumn roads:
    TWPp4Pj.jpg

    Here it is after a good wiping with a dry rag:
    Lt7wYX8.jpg

    Apply a drop of milky wax to each roller (2 mins):
    9zjtWt0.jpg

    Back-pedal slowly a few full chain rotations, to work the fluid in between the plates and rollers, without flicking it off everywhere:
    CQdWyf3.jpg

    An hour later (I usually do it in the evening before the next ride), it's all dried in, and is ready to ride:
    exiOcsS.jpg

    It doesn't appear fully clean, but the areas that need to be clean (between the plates and rollers) are actually clean and lubed, so wear is minimal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,248 ✭✭✭Rowley Birkin QC


    cletus wrote: »
    When are you flipping your stem:D

    This feels like a very personal question. :o

    I did do a chain stretch test and have now convinced myself that I need a new chain. I also took a look at the teeth on the cogs and briefly decided I needed new ones until I looked at the prices of same. :eek:
    CramCycle wrote: »
    Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower

    Cool, I'll pick some up this evening and go at it again. Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Wet lube in Winter, Dry lube in Summer.
    Also i recommend using Wet Lube sparingly (one drop every 2nd link) , use Dry lube liberally (one drop per link)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,049 ✭✭✭cletus


    Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

    I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,152 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    cletus wrote: »
    Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

    I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings
    CramCycle wrote: »
    I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.

    Ah...ganging up on me eh? :) wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

    Any recommendations for wax lube?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    cletus wrote: »
    Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

    The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

    I'd say that's because you used too much lube. ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    It's a chain-gang :D

    I bought two bottles of Smoove on Amazon in... #checks Amazon order history# - Feb 2019, and I just finished the first one this week.


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 124 ✭✭Dark sun


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Ah...ganging up on me eh? :) wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

    Any recommendations for wax lube?

    I use Squirt liquid wax lube and am very happy with the results it comes highly recommended, keeps the chain and cassette super clean, just a quick wipe down and reapply every 200k. Very impressed, no more oily mess. Here’s a photo of my cassette after 200k this week.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,152 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    White lightening Clean Ride, about a tenner a bottle. A bottle lasts at least a year for me, sometimes alot longer.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,138 Mod ✭✭✭✭adrian522


    Am I over inflating my tires?

    Recently changed to a new wheel, but twice now the tube has punctured while the bike is just sitting in the halllway. I'm in the kitchen and I hear the tire deflating.

    Is there anything else that could be causing this? Seems really weird.

    I had been inflating to 115, but recently changed to 100, but happened again yesterday.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,747 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    What size and brand of tube and tyre?

    I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

    Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,157 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

    Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

    Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

    One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,138 Mod ✭✭✭✭adrian522


    MojoMaker wrote: »
    What size and brand of tube and tyre?

    I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

    Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.

    Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say.
    Tube in continental Road Tube Presta.
    have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?

    I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something.
    Type 17 wrote: »
    Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

    Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

    Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

    One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.

    I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,157 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Mundo7976 wrote: »
    Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?
    i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference!
    i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference!
    i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...

    Cheers.
    Yeah dont want to be messing with them really. Ive reseated the wheel a few times in the dropouts to be sure i hadn't got that off.
    I really notice the difference when lookimg down from behind the seat, but then it only 1mm when i measure it.
    It shouldn't effect performance of the bike though?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,157 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    are the dropouts clean?
    don't forget that it can just take something tiny in the dropouts to have a 1mm effect at the rim.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,122 ✭✭✭Mundo7976


    Yep. Gave the whole bike a proper wipe down and clean last week!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,103 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    is it really necessary to go to 100psi on a 25mm tyre? It depends how heavy you are but I was going 80 rear and 75 front before I switched to 28mm and I have those even lower.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,928 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    adrian522 wrote: »
    Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say.
    Tube in continental Road Tube Presta.



    I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something.



    I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.

    If it happened twice then you should have two tubes to compare and see if it holed in the same place?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 16,138 Mod ✭✭✭✭adrian522


    loyatemu wrote: »
    is it really necessary to go to 100psi on a 25mm tyre? It depends how heavy you are but I was going 80 rear and 75 front before I switched to 28mm and I have those even lower.

    I've no idea. I've never had issues with it before. I could drop it down to 80 to see if that makes a difference.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    More stupid questions for the no stupid questions thread!

    I have two sets of wheels, both 700c.
    1 is set are a 2006 era bontrager with decent braking surface and the wrong hubs for the job.
    This other are older track style hubs with knackered rims and dangerously bad braking surface...
    You probably get where I'm going here.

    How mad would I have to be to attempt to make a good set from both?
    Will it work and will I need a new set of spokes, etc?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    If you're really lucky, the ERDs of the two sets of rims will be the same, and you can swap the good rims onto the wheels with the correct hubs.

    However, it's more likely that they're not, which would mean measuring up (online spoke-length calculators are available), and ordering the right length spokes to rebuild the set of wheels you want.

    ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the rims from one of the seats of a given nipple directly across the centre of the rim to its opposite nipple-seat (more details in link).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 363 ✭✭AhhHere


    Picked up a Bike to Work roadbike recently. Ordered some bits on Decathlon and been out a few times a week since.

    My stupid question is, why dont all clothes have back pockets? I bloody love them.

    But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Type 17 wrote: »
    If you're really lucky, the ERDs of the two sets of rims will be the same, and you can swap the good rims onto the wheels with the correct hubs.

    However, it's more likely that they're not, which would mean measuring up (online spoke-length calculators are available), and ordering the right length spokes to rebuild the set of wheels you want.

    ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the rims from one of the seats of a given nipple directly across the centre of the rim to its opposite nipple-seat (more details in link).

    That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
    I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    AhhHere wrote: »
    ...But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?

    This Park Tool video probably explains it better than any amount of typing on here. Also confirm that you can remove the wheel from your particular type of bike.

    PS: Rear jersey pockets are brilliant, but be careful when sitting down on a chair if you've got fragile or sharp items in the pockets ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    AhhHere wrote: »
    Picked up a Bike to Work roadbike recently. Ordered some bits on Decathlon and been out a few times a week since.

    My stupid question is, why dont all clothes have back pockets? I bloody love them.

    But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?

    I am guilty of risking the flat but then, we can't go more than 5km anyway...

    Your basics are going to be:
    Plastic tyre levers, minimum two but I prefer 3.
    A new inner tube. (And a repair kit at home to save the old one as a new spare)
    A means of inflation. Co2 cartridges are convenient, a good mini pump is for ever..

    That's assuming your wheels are quick release, if not you'll have to bring the correct tool to remove your wheel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,049 ✭✭✭cletus


    CianRyan wrote: »
    That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
    I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!

    Are you planning on rebuilding the wheels yourself?

    It's something I'd love to try


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  • Registered Users Posts: 363 ✭✭AhhHere


    Type 17 wrote: »
    This Park Tool video probably explains it better than any amount of typing on here. Also confirm that you can remove the wheel from your particular type of bike.

    PS: Rear jersey pockets are brilliant, but be careful when sitting down on a chair if you've got fragile or sharp items in the pockets ;)

    That is an excellent video thanks. Need to pick up a multi tool and spare tire. Wheels aren;t quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?

    Sorry these are reall stupid questions. Thanks for your patience.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    AhhHere wrote: »
    ...Wheels aren't quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?

    Not if the wheels have nuts, like the bottom-left bit of the video at 1:11 - in that case, you'd need to bring a (usually) 15mm spanner.

    If they're not quick-release, and they don't have nuts, then they are probably thru-axles, in which case, the multi-tool should have a suitable Allen key.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    cletus wrote: »
    Are you planning on rebuilding the wheels yourself?

    It's something I'd love to try

    That's the plan, it's two sets that would otherwise sit there for years or get thrown in the dump so I've nothing to lose but the spokes.

    Sure eh... How hard could it be?


  • Registered Users Posts: 363 ✭✭AhhHere


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Not if the wheels have nuts, like the bottom-left bit of the video at 1:11 - in that case, you'd need to bring a (usually) 15mm spanner.

    If they're not quick-release, and they don't have nuts, then they are probably thru-axles, in which case, the multi-tool should have a suitable Allen key.

    Nice one. Checked there and back is quick release front is through axle I assume. I could see right through it ;) So you're on the button. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    AhhHere wrote: »
    Nice one. Checked there and back is quick release front is through axle I assume. I could see right through it ;) So you're on the button. Thanks

    If you can see through it and it said 15mm on the end, it's a thru-axle, but the 15mm refers to the outside diameter of the thru-axle spindle itself - you'll need some size of Allen key to open it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,049 ✭✭✭cletus


    CianRyan wrote: »
    That's the plan, it's two sets that would otherwise sit there for years or get thrown in the dump so I've nothing to lose but the spokes.

    Sure eh... How hard could it be?

    Fair play, make sure you update the progress


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    CianRyan wrote: »
    That is about as positive as I'd have hoped!
    I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!

    I hope you've counted as well as measured.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    I'll have done neither until tomorrow evening.

    I'm a gluten for punishment as you can see...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,862 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    CianRyan wrote: »
    More stupid questions for the no stupid questions thread!

    I have two sets of wheels, both 700c.
    1 is set are a 2006 era bontrager with decent braking surface and the wrong hubs for the job.
    This other are older track style hubs with knackered rims and dangerously bad braking surface...
    You probably get where I'm going here.

    How mad would I have to be to attempt to make a good set from both?
    Will it work and will I need a new set of spokes, etc?

    Very very unlikely spoke length is the same, even if the spoke count was.

    Go away and get one or both online books that are available, by Roger Musson or Jobst Brandt or it'll probably end in tears no matter what parts you use.

    Once you get what a wire wheel is and how it works it'll help with building. It's a pre tensioned tensile structure; when the compressive load is at it's highest (6o'clock) the tension in wheel is high enough for that spoke to remain in tension.

    If you have good hubs you'll put a wheelset together for €100 if you shop around. High spoke count built 3 cross and follow the instructions and you will be grand. It's forgiving for amateurs like us.

    There is a rare breed that can build good wheels (even low spoke count) without ever reading a thing or having any tools, but they are super rare. The one guy I know like that is stone fcuking mad

    ugo.santalucia and the cycleclinic have posted a lot on
    https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13020726/handbuilt-wheels-the-big-thread


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Thanks for the reading materials, I'll dive into that before I dive into the wheels.
    I would also be close to stone mad, I have for example built a car loom out of spare scraps of cabling I had in my tool box. :pac:

    The principal of balancing tension isn't lost on me either, mechanical engineering is a great interest of mine. That's partly why I thought I'd try and build my own wheels rather than buy a new set!


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