magicbastarder wrote: » i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference! i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...
adrian522 wrote: » Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say. Tube in continental Road Tube Presta. I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something. I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.
loyatemu wrote: » is it really necessary to go to 100psi on a 25mm tyre? It depends how heavy you are but I was going 80 rear and 75 front before I switched to 28mm and I have those even lower.
Type 17 wrote: » If you're really lucky, the ERDs of the two sets of rims will be the same, and you can swap the good rims onto the wheels with the correct hubs. However, it's more likely that they're not, which would mean measuring up (online spoke-length calculators are available), and ordering the right length spokes to rebuild the set of wheels you want. ERD = effective rim diameter, the diameter of the rims from one of the seats of a given nipple directly across the centre of the rim to its opposite nipple-seat (more details in link).
AhhHere wrote: » ...But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?
AhhHere wrote: » Picked up a Bike to Work roadbike recently. Ordered some bits on Decathlon and been out a few times a week since. My stupid question is, why dont all clothes have back pockets? I bloody love them. But real Q - I don't have any maintenance skills afraid of getting a puncture while out. What should I carry and know ahead of time?
CianRyan wrote: » That is about as positive as I'd have hoped! I'll take some measurements this weekend so, if I can keep this build below €100, by god I'll do it!
Type 17 wrote: » This Park Tool video probably explains it better than any amount of typing on here. Also confirm that you can remove the wheel from your particular type of bike. PS: Rear jersey pockets are brilliant, but be careful when sitting down on a chair if you've got fragile or sharp items in the pockets
AhhHere wrote: » ...Wheels aren't quick release. Should the multi tool have the correct tool required?
cletus wrote: » Are you planning on rebuilding the wheels yourself? It's something I'd love to try
Type 17 wrote: » Not if the wheels have nuts, like the bottom-left bit of the video at 1:11 - in that case, you'd need to bring a (usually) 15mm spanner. If they're not quick-release, and they don't have nuts, then they are probably thru-axles, in which case, the multi-tool should have a suitable Allen key.
AhhHere wrote: » Nice one. Checked there and back is quick release front is through axle I assume. I could see right through it So you're on the button. Thanks
CianRyan wrote: » That's the plan, it's two sets that would otherwise sit there for years or get thrown in the dump so I've nothing to lose but the spokes. Sure eh... How hard could it be?
CianRyan wrote: » More stupid questions for the no stupid questions thread! I have two sets of wheels, both 700c. 1 is set are a 2006 era bontrager with decent braking surface and the wrong hubs for the job. This other are older track style hubs with knackered rims and dangerously bad braking surface... You probably get where I'm going here. How mad would I have to be to attempt to make a good set from both? Will it work and will I need a new set of spokes, etc?
fryup wrote: » what's this grub screw for on the brake calipers??
fryup wrote: » ^^^^^^^^ and what's with the giggle?
cletus wrote: » And tell me, cramcycle, do you often have equipment that you no longer require, and that you subsequently may wish to give to random people on the internet, like, for example, a bench power supply, or oscilloscope...