the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

take a pic of your bike - one issue might be saddle position/angle. should be easy enough for someone here to tell you if your saddle is at the wrong angle, before you go changing it.

tomasrojo

CramCycle wrote: »

I think its a silly idea, replace each tyre as it needs to be replaced. The effort of switching tyres around to gain something seems ridiculous, they either grip or not . You don't save money, or get any extra value and the claims of increased grip etc seem negligible unless you had really sh1t tyres.

When I was really broke I did this -- basically, I was flatting on the rear all the time, so switching them around meant fewer punctures without having to buy new tyres -- but it's a terrible idea really, as you give yourself a much higher chance of having a blow-out at the front, which could mean a catastrophic lack of control.

I was very, very broke though, so I didn't really have much choice.

JMcL

magicbastarder wrote: »

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

I rotate front to back as well the reason being is if the back tyre blows, it's probably not going to have very serious consequences - most likely a bit of road rash at worst. If a front tyre blows at speed however, you could be in all sorts of trouble

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

magicbastarder wrote: »

take a pic of your bike - one issue might be saddle position/angle. should be easy enough for someone here to tell you if your saddle is at the wrong angle, before you go changing it.

Thanks. Much obliged.

ED E

Anyone had issues with 6800 casettes coming loose over time? Third time its happened now. Fairly sure I glued it last time I tightened it.

magicbastarder

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

Thanks. Much obliged.

looks like there's a slight tilt backwards in the saddle, might be worth angling the nose down first and seeing if that makes any difference.
also, it can help to get up out of the saddle occasionally to pedal standing up, just to take the pressure off and to let the blood flow through.

CramCycle

ED E wrote: »

Anyone had issues with 6800 casettes coming loose over time? Third time its happened now. Fairly sure I glued it last time I tightened it.

Would your lockring be worn or could the freehub threads be poor? Happened once with a SRAM cassette but I put it down to being undertightened.

seamus

ED E wrote: »

Anyone had issues with 6800 casettes coming loose over time? Third time its happened now. Fairly sure I glued it last time I tightened it.

Seems like an odd one alright.

If there's a spacer missing (i.e. the cassette is slightly too small for the hub), then the rattling might shake the lockrig free.

Other thought is that the frame and lockring are coming into contact in some way. This would cause the lockring to come undone when pedalling forward. Was the axle ever removed? If the cones weren't reset in the correct place, then the frame might be just a hair too close to the hub, and is rubbing the lockring, perhaps when flexing under load.

Roger the cabin boy

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

Thanks. Much obliged.

Selle Catania

Looking at google pics, i'd say the seat is just rubbish.

Look for a new one with a proper center channel. (Giant upright, etc)

ED E

CramCycle wrote: »

Would your lockring be worn or could the freehub threads be poor? Happened once with a SRAM cassette but I put it down to being undertightened.

Visually it doesnt seem so. Theres a smaller washer between the lockring and the 11t which came on it.

seamus wrote: »

Seems like an odd one alright.

If there's a spacer missing (i.e. the cassette is slightly too small for the hub), then the rattling might shake the lockrig free.

Other thought is that the frame and lockring are coming into contact in some way. This would cause the lockring to come undone when pedalling forward. Was the axle ever removed? If the cones weren't reset in the correct place, then the frame might be just a hair too close to the hub, and is rubbing the lockring, perhaps when flexing under load.

I think its spaced correctly, fit is good. Plenty of clearance to the drop outs.


Cassette is nearly end of life now, have a new chain waiting to go on when the I replace the cassette so might as well go ahead with that. Just if it happens on a new one Ill lose my ****.

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

magicbastarder wrote: »

looks like there's a slight tilt backwards in the saddle, might be worth angling the nose down first and seeing if that makes any difference.
also, it can help to get up out of the saddle occasionally to pedal standing up, just to take the pressure off and to let the blood flow through.

Thanks. I tweaked it today before I nipped out for a quick 10k. I don't know if it's a placebo effect but it definitely worked.
Much appreciated.

cletus

So, being annoyed that the wheels I got don't fit (at least the rear doesn't), I decided to do what any sensible person would, and take the axle apart to see was there any way to Jerry rig it to fit.

Having removed two spacers, the distance between overlocking nuts (o.l.d., I think) is now 125mm. So the axle fits between the dropouts.

I now have two options open to me.

a) run one of the spacers on the outside of the dropout to take up the excess space (less than ideal)

b) cut off enough of the axle to allow the qr skewer to tighten up on the dropouts.

Is there any reason not to go for option b?

Type 17

cletus wrote: »

So, being annoyed that the wheels I got don't fit (at least the rear doesn't), I decided to do what any sensible person would, and take the axle apart to see was there any way to Jerry rig it to fit.

Having removed two spacers, the distance between overlocking nuts (o.l.d., I think) is now 125mm. So the axle fits between the dropouts.

I now have two options open to me.

a) run one of the spacers on the outside of the dropout to take up the excess space (less than ideal)

b) cut off enough of the axle to allow the qr skewer to tighten up on the dropouts.

Is there any reason not to go for option b?

You can cut the axle no problem, but you'll need to check the indexing on the cassette and the dishing of the rim.

cletus

Type 17 wrote: »

You can cut the axle no problem, but you'll need to check the indexing on the cassette and the dishing of the rim.

I'm hoping to change this to a single speed, so indexing shouldn't be an issue.

Dishing is another matter. Is there a simple way to check this?

Type 17

Trial-fit the wheel in the frame - see if the centre of the rim is centred on the hole in the brake bridge of the frame.
If not, see if you can change the axle spacing to make it better.
If the axle spacing won't bring the rim fully to the centre, then you'll have to do some dishing.

PS: keep an eye on the chain-line to the single-speed sprocket when doing the axle-spacing (remember you can sometimes alter the chainring spacing, if required, by putting it on the other side of the spider or by changing the BB axle length). If the chain-line is poor, everything will wear very quickly.

.red.

I need a new tube and I'm clueless as to what to get.
The one in it is 700x18-25c.
Any recommendations on brands?
I looked online and saw different thickness, different length valves and numerous brands and didn't what to go for.

magicbastarder

just go to your local bike shop and ask for the same again (but buy a couple). my local place charges five or six quid each for them.

Type 17

What size is your tyre?

You can fit a slightly narrower tube, but don't bother with a slightly wider tube (except for a temporary fix) because kinks/folds in a too-big tube wear off the tyre and you'll get a puncture that way in a few weeks/months.

Any brand is ok, except super-cheap crud, which can fail at the seams. Only worry about tube quality/weight if you have a really fancy bike (and you are built like a jockey!), where a few grams will actually make a difference.

Valve lengths are relevant if you have deep rims (fancy wheels) - 48mm is today's standard size, 60 & 80mm are the other sizes commonly available (check your old ones, and if they fit, get them again)

.red.

Type 17 wrote: »

What size is your tyre?

Tyre is a Bontrager 700x23. The valves on the front and back were different lengths so didn't know if one was better than the other.
I fixed a puncture today only to have the valve break in my hand as I went to attach the pump after putting the wheel on.
I won't be on the bike anytime soon so was gonna go online and get 2 tubes and a pump for on the bike anyway and won't be near my LBS.

Type 17

If the bike is on 23's, it's probably an older model (assumption), and so is likely to have relatively shallow rims (another assumption), so 700 x 18-25 (ETRTO size 18-25/622) with a 48mm valve will suit fine.

crosstownk

Measure the valve length on the old tube. If in doubt, get the longest one.

MadYaker

I got a Speialized allez elite a few days ago. Its the nicest bike I've owned so far and I want to maintain it properly, what basic stuff should I be doing? I commute by bike so I'll be doing about 10k a day on it. In the past I've had cheap bikes and just brought them to a shop when the brakes went or whatever but I want to look after this one properly.

MiskyBoyy

MadYaker wrote: »

I got a Speialized allez elite a few days ago. Its the nicest bike I've owned so far and I want to maintain it properly, what basic stuff should I be doing? I commute by bike so I'll be doing about 10k a day on it. In the past I've had cheap bikes and just brought them to a shop when the brakes went or whatever but I want to look after this one properly.

I have this saved as a word document on my PC. I copied it from here I think so sorry whoever posted it. I can't remember who, to give you credit.

A quick excerpt from a basic bike maintenance class i've done with a few groups... Bear in mind this is a simplified list for people who have never picked up a spanner in their lives!


BICYCLE CHECKS SCHEDULE
DAILY SAFETY CHECKS – BEFORE YOU RIDE
· Give your bike a shake! Rattles mean something is loose!
· Check tyre pressures – pump if necessary.
· Are brakes working?
· Wheels secure and turning freely?

WEEKLY CHECK
· Handlebars straight and secure?
· Saddle straight and secure?
· Check brake pad alignment – pads squeezing the rim = good; pads touching the tyre = bad!
· Clean wheel rims where brake pads touch rim.
MONTHLY CHECK
· Check your tyre treads – any bald spots, cracks or bulges are unsafe and require replacement of the tyre.
· Check your brake pads for wear (wear indicator), replace as required.
· Check gears are changing smoothly, not jumping or rattling – if so, bring to your bike mechanic.
· Check brake and gear cables for corrosion (rust) or fraying.
· Clean, degrease and re-lubricate your chain.
ANNUAL CHECK
· Once a year, you should bring your bike to your local bike mechanic for a full service and safety check – he/she can answer any queries or concerns you may have.

magicbastarder

first one is chain maintenance. lube your chain every week or two (you can go longer if you're cycling in dry weather, shorter if cycling in the wet), and importantly, always wipe the excess lube off the chain. if you don't, it attracts grit and grime which will act like an abrasive.
is that a disc brake bike? or rim brakes?

Tony04

cletus wrote: »

I'm hoping to change this to a single speed, so indexing shouldn't be an issue.

Dishing is another matter. Is there a simple way to check this?

Seth's bike hacks does video where he builds a wheel without any tools and had a method of checking the dish without any tools. If you cut the axles evenly it shouldn't be an issue though. Does the hub have a freehub or a standard shimano hub if its standard you can go 1 x 10,11 and even some sram eagle 12 speed.

ironictoaster

Hi All,

Sorry if this isn’t necessarily maintenance but I recently got a bike and I am absolutely loving it. Sense of freedom is great, especially during lockdown!

However, I am really paranoid about bike theft. I currently have the bike stored in the house away from windows, but this isn’t feasible long term and I will have to move the bike into the garden shed.

I was just wondering if buckets of cement, chains and locks are still the best way to go?

I am also looking to keep the bike hidden from view within the shed with a compartment door and lock

Thanks!

magicbastarder

it's the old story about strapping on a pair of runners when yourself and your mate are being chased by a bear. the thieves will prefer low hanging fruit. if they can't cycle away on the bike, they might lose interest, so storing the front wheel inside may be an idea. slightly complicates storing the bike though.

ironictoaster

magicbastarder wrote: »

it's the old story about strapping on a pair of runners when yourself and your mate are being chased by a bear. the thieves will prefer low hanging fruit. if they can't cycle away on the bike, they might lose interest, so storing the front wheel inside may be an idea. slightly complicates storing the bike though.

True, I imagine most are opportunistic. I have no issues storing the wheels indoors as they are both quick release.

So you think just storing the frame in the shed would be best?

magicbastarder

I have no actual experience to back it up, but even just making the front wheel inaccessible should deter a thief expecting to cycle away on the bike.

MadYaker

magicbastarder wrote: »

first one is chain maintenance. lube your chain every week or two (you can go longer if you're cycling in dry weather, shorter if cycling in the wet), and importantly, always wipe the excess lube off the chain. if you don't, it attracts grit and grime which will act like an abrasive.
is that a disc brake bike? or rim brakes?

Rim brakes. Ill have to buy chain oil so. Its a 2010 model, aluminium frame with a carbon fork.