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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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CramCycle

PhillySteak9 wrote: »

I need to replace the bottom bearing on my headset. The existing bearing has the following text on it - TH MR 075 1-1/8 36’ x 4.5 1.6
How do I know what replacement bearing to buy based on this info as I can’t make head or tail of it?

MR075 is the manufacturers code I think, have seen variations on FSA Headsets but someone else will know better

1 1/8 refers to 1'1/8 inch headset
36 x 4.5 I imagine is actually 36 degree by 45degree

https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mr075-th800-headset-bearing-by-fsa.html
or https://all4bikes.be/shop/en/headset-bearings-fsa-bearing-acb-micro-118-36x45-th-800mr075-black-160-6747-p-1620678.html

PhillySteak9

CramCycle wrote: »

MR075 is the manufacturers code I think, have seen variations on FSA Headsets but someone else will know better

1 1/8 refers to 1'1/8 inch headset
36 x 4.5 I imagine is actually 36 degree by 45degree

https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mr075-th800-headset-bearing-by-fsa.html
or https://all4bikes.be/shop/en/headset-bearings-fsa-bearing-acb-micro-118-36x45-th-800mr075-black-160-6747-p-1620678.html

That’s great. Thanks very much.

2 Wheels Good

Looking for some opinions/advice, I've a Wilier Cento1SR (old setup below) and am in the process of swapping out the handlebars. I've the brakes set up with the left to the back, I’m just wondering if there's any proper way to cable it as the frame design is right to the back?
I'm just trying not to have frame rub from the cable. I'll be heat shrinking the cable/di2 wire once I've it cut a bit as the new handlebars run the cables internally. Any advice much appreciated

07Lapierre

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Looking for some opinions/advice, I've a Wilier Cento1SR (old setup below) and am in the process of swapping out the handlebars. I've the brakes set up with the left to the back, I’m just wondering if there's any proper way to cable it as the frame design is right to the back?
I'm just trying not to have frame rub from the cable. I'll be heat shrinking the cable/di2 wire once I've it cut a bit as the new handlebars run the cables internally. Any advice much appreciated

What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

velo.2010

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

07Lapierre

velo.2010 wrote: »

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

Ah ok. I have a few bikes. Some have the rear brake on the left, others have it on the right. personally, I think I'd wire the rear brake to the left shifter if the cable entered the frame on the right side. If the cable entered the frame on the left, then I'd wire the rear brake to the right shifter. I'd do this to avoid a tight bend in the cable. But TBH, I don't think it makes a blind bit of difference which way you do it.

2 Wheels Good

velo.2010 wrote: »

"What do you mean by "the frame design is right to the back"?

I think he means the frame cable ports favour the rear brake being on the right side of the bars?

FWIW, I ride with the front brake on the left, rear on right. Not sure sure how that came to be, but it suits me fine.

Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.

velo.2010

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

Yes, the port is on the left favouring the right being the back brake. I'm just trying to gauge the right length compromising between tightness and rubbing off the frame.

Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?

2 Wheels Good

velo.2010 wrote: »

Less bartape covering the bars towards the centre?

Will have none, have fitted aero bars, Wiggle/Prime Primavera. Inside hole is where the cable comes out.

griffdaddy

iamtony wrote: »

I'm scouring you tube for a video on the pad replacement procedure and I can't find one, it's shocking actually seeing how popular they are. All the videos saying brake change are about upgrading.
I'd say your best bet to loosen the grub screw is to try get a bit of penetrating oil on it without getting it on any thing else obviously and then just go for it. Have you got decent T bar style Allen keys?

I can't help you directly with this but I have a D4S and I'm in a Facebook Group that pretty much ahs the answer to all of these questions. They include links to spare parts on aliexpress etc.

It's called 'Fiido e-bike owners group'.

Rowley Birkin QC

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hey... I have the same chain cleaner. You can clean and lubricate the chain with the wheels in place.

Fill the scrubber with your chosen cleaner, stand the bike against a wall, put the scrubber in place and turn your pedal crank arm backwards for 30 or 40 revolutions. I use citrus degreaser first if the chain is very dirty then do a second run with warm water and fairy liquid and it will be sparkling.

When it dries, apply your choice of lube.

Then look up how to remove rear wheel and clean the cassette - you'll hate how filthy it looks in comparison to the chain :-)

So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

cletus

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

So, that chain cleaning tool is excellent! I was also astounded how much grit and dirt came off the big cog yokey and the small cogs on the derailleur(?) at the back:)

I now have a new problem in that I went for a spin afterwards and now feel that I have to clean and lube it after every spin :rolleyes:

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

I use the dry lube version (yellow lid, I think)

I used the wet lube once, and as you said, a magnet for dirt, but also a pain to clean off.

When are you flipping your stem:D

CramCycle

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

Thanks again for the help!

Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower

Type 17

Rowley Birkin QC wrote: »

I put wet lube on the chain and wiped off the excess but just wondering what do people typically use here as the stuff I used almost seemed to be a magnet for dirt afterward?

After trying loads of different solutions, I've gone for a balance between having to clean and re-lube a bit more often, and it being a quick and easy job - I use a wax-based lube approximately every 200-250km:

Here's the chain after about 250km of autumn roads:

Here it is after a good wiping with a dry rag:

Apply a drop of milky wax to each roller (2 mins):

Back-pedal slowly a few full chain rotations, to work the fluid in between the plates and rollers, without flicking it off everywhere:

An hour later (I usually do it in the evening before the next ride), it's all dried in, and is ready to ride:

It doesn't appear fully clean, but the areas that need to be clean (between the plates and rollers) are actually clean and lubed, so wear is minimal.

Rowley Birkin QC

cletus wrote: »

When are you flipping your stem:D

This feels like a very personal question.

I did do a chain stretch test and have now convinced myself that I need a new chain. I also took a look at the teeth on the cogs and briefly decided I needed new ones until I looked at the prices of same. :eek:

CramCycle wrote: »

Dry lube or one of those wax lubes. Wet lube just attracts everything in an attempt to destroy your components quicker and make you slower

Cool, I'll pick some up this evening and go at it again. Thanks!

07Lapierre

Wet lube in Winter, Dry lube in Summer.
Also i recommend using Wet Lube sparingly (one drop every 2nd link) , use Dry lube liberally (one drop per link)

cletus

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

CramCycle

I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.

07Lapierre

cletus wrote: »

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

I would recommend against using the wet lube at all, and just be prepared to lube more frequently. The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

CramCycle wrote: »

I too disagree with Lapierre, in winter use dry lube, in summer use dry Lube and at any other time of year, use dry lube. Relube more often during particularly bad patches of weather.

Ah...ganging up on me eh?

wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

Any recommendations for wax lube?

07Lapierre

cletus wrote: »

Without meaning to go against lapierre, I'm going to go against lapierre.

The last time I changed my chain, I had been using wet lube, and it was a pain in the arse to clean the residue and ****e off the cassette and chain rings

I'd say that's because you used too much lube.

Type 17

It's a chain-gang

I bought two bottles of Smoove on Amazon in... #checks Amazon order history# - Feb 2019, and I just finished the first one this week.

Dark sun

07Lapierre wrote: »

Ah...ganging up on me eh? wet lube is messy I agree, which is why I use it sparingly. I find the muck off dry lube is very, very light and I'd have to relube almost daily in winter. Using wet lube means I can go all week and when I wash the bike on the weekend, I degrease and relabel the chain,which sets it up for another week.

Any recommendations for wax lube?

I use Squirt liquid wax lube and am very happy with the results it comes highly recommended, keeps the chain and cassette super clean, just a quick wipe down and reapply every 200k. Very impressed, no more oily mess. Here’s a photo of my cassette after 200k this week.

CramCycle

White lightening Clean Ride, about a tenner a bottle. A bottle lasts at least a year for me, sometimes alot longer.

adrian522

Am I over inflating my tires?

Recently changed to a new wheel, but twice now the tube has punctured while the bike is just sitting in the halllway. I'm in the kitchen and I hear the tire deflating.

Is there anything else that could be causing this? Seems really weird.

I had been inflating to 115, but recently changed to 100, but happened again yesterday.

MojoMaker

What size and brand of tube and tyre?

I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.

magicbastarder

have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?

Type 17

Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.

Mundo7976

Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?

adrian522

MojoMaker wrote: »

What size and brand of tube and tyre?

I had something similar recently. Had ordered a batch of chinese tubes from Alltricks to keep the stock high. Went though 3 in a couple of days without turning a wheel. Dodgy valve cores on all of them - losing air slowly over a few hours. Not perceptibly, but enough to leave me with a flat the next morning.

Had to chuck 'em all out and write back to Alltricks - still waiting on a reply as it happens.

Tyre is GP 4000S 25. :It's nearing the end of its life now I'd say.
Tube in continental Road Tube Presta.

magicbastarder wrote: »

have you checked on the inside of the tyre to confirm there's not something stuck in it, which could be re-puncturing the tyre when you reinflate it?

I've checked the inside of the tyre and not noticed anything but perhaps I've missed something.

Type 17 wrote: »

Over-inflation would typically lead to the tyre blowing off the rim (huge bang, your ear ringing for ten minutes if in the same room).

Sounds like the rim tape is unsuitable (not the high-pressure type) or is damaged/out of position, allowing the tube to enter the hollow section of the rim through a spoke-hole and to split.

Examine the tube to see if the hole is on the inside (rim-tape issue) or on the outside (tyre issue) and how far around the tube from the valve - this will give you an idea of where to look.

One other possibility: if the wheel is a narrow, deep rim on a cheap fixie, and it has a cheap (thick bead) 23mm tyre, the part of the tube around the valve often cannot fill the rim cavity (tyre blocks it from sitting correctly) and you will find a stretched area on the tube with a split about 10mm from the base of the valve. Spraying the tube/rim/tyre with silicone lube (oil-free) can help, but often, the only solution is to buy a better-quality tyre.

I'll take a look at the tube to see where the issue is but I'm suspecting it may be an issue with the Rim tape on the wheel. I may take it back to the shop to see if they agree it is an issue with the wheel or if it is the tyre.

magicbastarder

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Rear wheel is off centre (between chainstays) by 1mm closer to the NDS. Ive tightened nipples on the DS and loosened on the NDS by a quarter turn and no difference. I don't want to over do it. Is 1mm enough to get it seen to by LBS?

i don't think i'd notice a 1mm difference!
i suspect it's as much to do with how the wheel is sitting in the dropouts, as it is to do with how it's dished. i certainly wouldn't be playing with the spokes yet...