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soild fuel stove advise

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Comments

  • #552
    creedp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,811 ✭✭✭creedp


    I have just come across tihs thread and have found it the most informative source of information on stoves I have yet to come across. It has certaintly thrown a spanner in my works as my builder has built a new chinmey in my new build for a stove complete with 8" clay liner surrounded by mortar and stf blocks. THis chimney is build inside a 6" full filled cavity and 6" quinnlite block but I suppose this is irrelevant as it is the clay liner that is the problem both in terms of the material and the diameter. I will be looking at installing a 7-8 KW stove (no boiler) as so would be looking at a flue diameter of between 125 and 150mm - along way from 200mm!!

    Had I known in advance what I know now could I have built the chimney using a different liner, e.g. pumice or using the likes of the Anki Chimney system and saved myself the expense of lining the clay lined chimney? I suppose I should have selected the stove in advance for tihs to be possible as I would need to have known the correct flue size before I started.

    Anyway anybody got some advice for best approach now? Should I go a price these flexible liners and various methods of insulating the liner and get my builder to install or would it be best to get a professional to do this given the lack of knowledge shown by the builder. What wold it cost to install a 150mm flexible liner in a 4.5m chimney including insulation and chimney cowls etc.

    All advice greatly received

    Thanks


  • #553
    Rainbowsend
    Registered Users Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Rainbowsend


    You just need a reducer it will fit into the 8" clay pipe you seal this with fire cement and it then reduces in size to fit in the top or back of your stove again sealed with fire cement. It is not a problem. The reducer is made of galvanised steel and is available from stove providers.


  • #554
    Fiskar
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,599 ✭✭✭Fiskar


    Don't know your location guys but will offer this information, M.I flues in the industrial estate in Summerhill Co meath is an indigenous Irish company that makes and distributes flues , reducers of all shapes and sizes. link below

    http://www.miflues.ie/


  • #555
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    creedp wrote: »
    I have just come across tihs thread and have found it the most informative source of information on stoves I have yet to come across. It has certaintly thrown a spanner in my works as my builder has built a new chinmey in my new build for a stove complete with 8" clay liner surrounded by mortar and stf blocks. THis chimney is build inside a 6" full filled cavity and 6" quinnlite block but I suppose this is irrelevant as it is the clay liner that is the problem both in terms of the material and the diameter. I will be looking at installing a 7-8 KW stove (no boiler) as so would be looking at a flue diameter of between 125 and 150mm - along way from 200mm!!

    Had I known in advance what I know now could I have built the chimney using a different liner, e.g. pumice or using the likes of the Anki Chimney system and saved myself the expense of lining the clay lined chimney? I suppose I should have selected the stove in advance for tihs to be possible as I would need to have known the correct flue size before I started.

    Anyway anybody got some advice for best approach now? Should I go a price these flexible liners and various methods of insulating the liner and get my builder to install or would it be best to get a professional to do this given the lack of knowledge shown by the builder. What wold it cost to install a 150mm flexible liner in a 4.5m chimney including insulation and chimney cowls etc.

    All advice greatly received

    Thanks
    Creed,i have just put in a 8 kw non boiler stove,i was going to spigot in to the existing flue because of the prices i heard of,when i went to price them i got the 125mm double flexi from well known builders merchant for 21€ excl vat a metre,an adaptor from stove to flexi for approx 30 and 3 bags of vermiculitte at €15 incl vat,that was 5m of flue swept in a nice easy bend to the adaptor for my place and i returned two bags as the one bag done it,i had a tin cowel on already and the insulation holds the flue in place,i think its worked out a lot cheaper than they wanting brackets and register plates and plates at the top to hold flues,not saying its right for you but I have a great working chimney and stove.


  • #556
    creedp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,811 ✭✭✭creedp


    tipptom wrote: »
    Creed,i have just put in a 8 kw non boiler stove,i was going to spigot in to the existing flue because of the prices i heard of,when i went to price them i got the 125mm double flexi from well known builders merchant for 21€ excl vat a metre,an adaptor from stove to flexi for approx 30 and 3 bags of vermiculitte at €15 incl vat,that was 5m of flue swept in a nice easy bend to the adaptor for my place and i returned two bags as the one bag done it,i had a tin cowel on already and the insulation holds the flue in place,i think its worked out a lot cheaper than they wanting brackets and register plates and plates at the top to hold flues,not saying its right for you but I have a great working chimney and stove.

    Thanks Tipptom. Seems like it it definitely the way to go given the nature of the concerns voiced here about venting stoves into clay pipes. I already have a chimney pot in place so Im assuming I can lower the liner down the chimney and then use a pot hanger to secure in place at top of chimney . I am not sure about whats required at the stove end of the flue as Ive looked at some websites and what with pot hangers, flexible adaptors, pot hanger with cowl top, nose cones, register plates, etc Im confused as to what is required. Im assuming I will need to connect the end of the liner to an adaptor and attach other side of adaptor to the stove flue which I think must be a min of 600mm. However, Im not clear as to the purpose of the register other than it is secured underneath the chimney opening so as to reduce the heat loss up the chimney. It may also be usedful to fill the void between the chimney base and register plate with some rockwool. I presume also it has an airtightness purpose or maybe that's achieved using fire cement to seal adaptor to end of clay pipe/chimney opening. Insulation will then be poured down the chimney to keep the clay liner in place and insulate it.

    Finally, my chimney pot currently has a 'bird cage' on top - as this will have to be removed in order to install the pot hanger will it be necessary to also install some alternative bird cage on hanger or does the hanger offer adequate protection.

    I am going to visit a couple of stove centres over weekend and try and get a handle on what' required. I mentioned that I will have to line the chimney to my builder and he just gave me a pained look and said he has installed many stanley stoves in recent times and all have been vented directly into 8" clay pipes and he hasn't hear any complaint. In fact the only complaint he has received is that the stoves are too hot!!

    One final question for you Tipptom - what grade was you flue liner? I've understand there are 2 grades, the 316L and the 904 with the latter being the higher quality and cost and always installed with boilers stoves and ranges while the former is OK with non-boiler stoves. Any views on this point?

    Sorry for the meandering nature of this query and thanks for info


  • #557
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    creedp wrote: »
    Thanks Tipptom. Seems like it it definitely the way to go given the nature of the concerns voiced here about venting stoves into clay pipes. I already have a chimney pot in place so Im assuming I can lower the liner down the chimney and then use a pot hanger to secure in place at top of chimney . I am not sure about whats required at the stove end of the flue as Ive looked at some websites and what with pot hangers, flexible adaptors, pot hanger with cowl top, nose cones, register plates, etc Im confused as to what is required. Im assuming I will need to connect the end of the liner to an adaptor and attach other side of adaptor to the stove flue which I think must be a min of 600mm. However, Im not clear as to the purpose of the register other than it is secured underneath the chimney opening so as to reduce the heat loss up the chimney. It may also be usedful to fill the void between the chimney base and register plate with some rockwool. I presume also it has an airtightness purpose or maybe that's achieved using fire cement to seal adaptor to end of clay pipe/chimney opening. Insulation will then be poured down the chimney to keep the clay liner in place and insulate it.

    Finally, my chimney pot currently has a 'bird cage' on top - as this will have to be removed in order to install the pot hanger will it be necessary to also install some alternative bird cage on hanger or does the hanger offer adequate protection.

    I am going to visit a couple of stove centres over weekend and try and get a handle on what' required. I mentioned that I will have to line the chimney to my builder and he just gave me a pained look and said he has installed many stanley stoves in recent times and all have been vented directly into 8" clay pipes and he hasn't hear any complaint. In fact the only complaint he has received is that the stoves are too hot!!

    One final question for you Tipptom - what grade was you flue liner? I've understand there are 2 grades, the 316L and the 904 with the latter being the higher quality and cost and always installed with boilers stoves and ranges while the former is OK with non-boiler stoves. Any views on this point?

    Sorry for the meandering nature of this query and thanks for info
    No probs,my lining was 316l but if money was at a premium you should go for the 904,my area where the reg plate was supposed to go is so small and not uniform that i just stuffed around the flexiflu with rockwool where it meets the existing clay liner and insulated it with the insulation mixed with cement so its sealed and plan to put scamolex board behind stove to reflect the heat back out all sealed with fire cement as i also sealed the adaptor pipe to the back of the stove with cement.I have not done the board yet as its expensive and i also use the fireplace to store wood thats not dry enough and it has them dry in a day if we got a good fire on.Another thing if your buying your stove from a shop,check the prices of the bends and adaptors eleswhere as one crowd wanted to charge me €90 for one reducer,check the builders merchants.If you have the money put the flue in now for effeicency and the long term gain,never mind the builders,im not much good at diy or heights but i had mine connected and insulated and little fire going in 3 hours.


  • #558
    gripcasey
    Registered Users Posts: 312 ✭✭gripcasey


    tpptom

    sounds like a great job done there. can i ask which well known builders merchant you got liner from. thanks


  • #559
    tm2204
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    Can I stand a boiler stove (8.5Kw boiler / 3.5 Kw room) onto the hearth of my fireplace (picture below).

    Been told that because I have a wooden surround I cannot but the distance from all sides of boiler to wooden surround is min 170mm.

    Fireplace is cast iron but surround is wooden as you can see in picture. Ignore the little insert stove currently there, it's coming out :D


  • #560
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    gripcasey wrote: »
    tpptom

    sounds like a great job done there. can i ask which well known builders merchant you got liner from. thanks
    Heiton buckleys but phone around the others as well.


  • #561
    tm2204
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    tm2204 wrote: »
    Can I stand a boiler stove (8.5Kw boiler / 3.5 Kw room) onto the hearth of my fireplace (picture below).

    Been told that because I have a wooden surround I cannot but the distance from all sides of boiler to wooden surround is min 170mm.

    Fireplace is cast iron but surround is wooden as you can see in picture. Ignore the little insert stove currently there, it's coming out :D

    Anybody on this?


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  • #562
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    Mine still has the wooden surround around it,i would think 170mm is plenty of tolerance,im no expert but there is a few threads on boards about this with regulated distances.


  • #563
    Ellian
    Registered Users Posts: 301 ✭✭Ellian


    One other question if I might - does the registry plate have to be completely sealed. I just got a wood burner fitted and there is a registry plate in place. However there is about a 2cm gap between the plate and the flue pipe and another gap at the front of the chimney (the plate was cut in a straight line and the chimney is concave - it is maybe another 3cm at the widest point in the middle) Currently have been using the stove for a couple of days, and not really getting the great blast of heat we were expecting and wondering if this might be the cause? Advice much appreciated.


  • #564
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    Ellian wrote: »
    One other question if I might - does the registry plate have to be completely sealed. I just got a wood burner fitted and there is a registry plate in place. However there is about a 2cm gap between the plate and the flue pipe and another gap at the front of the chimney (the plate was cut in a straight line and the chimney is concave - it is maybe another 3cm at the widest point in the middle) Currently have been using the stove for a couple of days, and not really getting the great blast of heat we were expecting and wondering if this might be the cause? Advice much appreciated.
    Yea,mine was the same,i didnt put in a register plate but you need to get it air tight as possible,i think if you stuff it with rock wool and around the flue with fire cement,you want all the air going through the stove,even though my chimney is sealed with insulation around the bottom of the old flue,i think it will make an awful differance when i seal of the fireplace with the heat reflecting board even though i find it handy to stack timber in the fire place and let it dry.


  • #565
    Antiquo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭Antiquo


    Folks some of the installation procedures talked about in this thread could have potentially fatal consequences. I read this thread ongoing and really all I can say is please install a CO detector in the room in which you have installed the stove.

    This is the latest UK building reg (Part J Heat Producing Appliances) which covers the installation of solid fuel stoves.
    Have a read of it and see how much of your install properly complies with it. The prime aim of the reg is to ensure safety so please don't dismiss it as a load of nonsense that you don't really need to worry about.

    If nothing else like I said go get and install a CO detector in the same room as the stove.

    Also a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy and an emergency escape plan in the case of fire.


  • #566
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Antiquo wrote: »
    If nothing else like I said go get and install a CO detector in the same room as the stove.

    Also a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy and an emergency escape plan in the case of fire.

    Best bit of general cop on and advice Ive read on this forum in quite a while.

    Simple but very important and effective.:)


  • #567
    tipptom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,219 ✭✭✭tipptom


    Healy1 wrote: »
    can anyone tell me where i can buy sheets of this stuff without paying an arm and a leg?

    thanks
    Ive been looking all over for this stuff and the only place i can seem to get it is a stove shop who charges €50 for a 3x2.


  • #568
    icejoey
    Closed Accounts Posts: 30 ✭icejoey


    Hi guys

    Has any one bought a stove from www.castironstoves.ie and what did they think. There stoves seem very reasonable


  • #569
    studdlymurphy
    Registered Users Posts: 827 ✭✭✭studdlymurphy


    I want to fit a multifuel boiler stove but not sure what size(kw) I need. I need it to heat 9 double rads.
    Thanks


  • #570
    luscaa
    Registered Users Posts: 24 ✭luscaa


    alrite lads,
    i built a shed and got a stove off a lad cause it was leeking smoke out the front.he only had it in for 2 days so possible wasnt installed correct. what kind of flue do i need and how high does it have to go? shed is 8ft high r so on outside. will single wall do me?


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  • #571
    bbam
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    luscaa wrote: »
    alrite lads,
    i built a shed and got a stove off a lad cause it was leeking smoke out the front.he only had it in for 2 days so possible wasnt installed correct. what kind of flue do i need and how high does it have to go? shed is 8ft high r so on outside. will single wall do me?

    Leaky stove would be very dangerous...


  • #572
    Cocoon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 600 ✭✭✭Cocoon


    bbam wrote: »
    Leaky stove would be very dangerous...


    If I leave the door of the the stove slightly open it sucks in air and becomes a furnace, if smoke leaks out from the stove or flue there is a chimney problem because there should be a draw from the flue...


  • #573
    Flyman
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭Flyman


    Hi Guy's. Thinking of getting a Hamco Glenregon multy fuel stove with boiler.Does anyone have one.Are they any good.?


  • #574
    BrianMc1980
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭BrianMc1980


    luscaa wrote: »
    alrite lads,
    i built a shed and got a stove off a lad cause it was leeking smoke out the front.he only had it in for 2 days so possible wasnt installed correct. what kind of flue do i need and how high does it have to go? shed is 8ft high r so on outside. will single wall do me?

    Hello, Your Chimney needs to be at least 4.5Mtrs high, you can use single wall S. Steel 316 1mm thick or a Vit. Enamel Pipe as long as it is not going near your wooden material (roof) at this point you have to change to an insulated pipe and continue that outside.


  • #575
    BrianMc1980
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭BrianMc1980


    Flyman wrote: »
    Hi Guy's. Thinking of getting a Hamco Glenregon multy fuel stove with boiler.Does anyone have one.Are they any good.?
    hello, yes I know Hamco, one on the oldest & longest running stove company's in Ireland, they have a good rep


  • #576
    Flyman
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭Flyman


    Hi BrianMc1980,
    What's your opinion on the Boru Carraig Mor v Hamco Glenregan??
    Trying to make up my mind........


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  • #577
    BrianMc1980
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭BrianMc1980


    Flyman wrote: »
    Hi BrianMc1980,
    What's your opinion on the Boru Carraig Mor v Hamco Glenregan??
    Trying to make up my mind........
    Good morning
    One is steel the other is cast iron, steel is shaped and welded, you may get a design in the doors but other than that it is a square box, cast is melded and poured into a molded and you can get many different designs or effects but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Steel boiler stoves, if the boiler goes in years to come the stove goes, a cast stove, the boiler can be changed but if this happens you may be sick of looking at the stove and think time for a change. The steel stove is made in Ireland, the cast iron one is cast in China and assembled in Ireland. Company v Company, one of them is only 2/3 years old with a retail company linked to them already gone bust.
    Thats my 2 pence worth, do with it what you will!!


  • #578
    BrianMc1980
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭BrianMc1980


    Rainbowsend wrote: »
    .....we have just finished installing a Fantastic heat of it delighted with it, just one thing we didnt really leave enough room at the back of the stove and find the wall gets very hot, and might eventually crack the plaster, looking for a heat resistant paint to use on it at the moment. If anyone knows where this can be got?

    There is a Heat Resistant Plaster newly available, I think it its a stove shop product over a Hardware product, try these guys

    http://www.hamco.ie/component/k2/item/44-sealant


  • #579
    bootser
    Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭bootser


    Hi All, have finally read through entire thread!! still not sure weather to go ahead and get stove for two reasons.1- the wife LOVES her open fire finding it very difficult to budge her! 2- although i have a fairly new chimney(10 year old) i believe i'd want to get it lined, but if i line it for a stove and the wife hates the stove i cant really go back to an open fire!:( So was thinking of just cleaning and scraping the chimney and fitting somthing like a San remo inset for the coming winter to test the water so to speak! All going well would hope to line chimney and fit somthing like esse 301 next year.Any opinions!?:confused:


  • #580
    PeteHeat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi Bootser,

    You have hit on what is probably one of the most important things to consider when buying a stove.

    A good stove properly installed is not cheap, they are long term investments so even if the technical data sheets say a particular stove is the best the customer must bear in mind they are going to be looking at it for at least ten years often as the focal point in their main living area.

    It is vital that all parties are happy with the look and method of operating the stove before buying, second hand stoves are worse than cars for losing their re-sale value regardless of the make and model.

    A problem with trying a poor quality stove or just not the one you really want is it may perform badly which of course leaves a double problem, it can reinforce any of the existing doubts that one party has and of course you going to lose at least 50% of your original outlay.

    Neither of the above is a pleasent thought, of couse if the stove works as you hope then you both win.

    I suggest a softly softly approach allowing "The Boss" to evaluate the benefits in her own time, less waste (ashes etc) same heat for a lot less money and work hauling in fuel.

    An average open fire produces approximately 3 Kw of heat into the room, by sizing the stove properly you can still have that nice flame and the benefit of the heat and all that goes with it.

    If you have another room with an open fire you might consider installing a stove there first ?

    Regards,

    Pete.

    .


  • #581
    bootser
    Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭bootser


    Hi Pete,
    Thanks for the reply, have gone with the "softly" approach and think i may have got her thinking my way, went looking at stoves locally on Sat.First shop unfortunatly she basically hated everthing(and it was a big shop with a good selection!),however second shop she seen a stanley cara and actually quite liked it:),i've seen few reviews on the cara but it has a resonable firebox and a 5 year warranty,plus a large window on the door, think i may bite the bullet and invest before the cold weather! Anyone else any experiance of stanley caras??


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  • #582
    Cal04
    Registered Users Posts: 523 ✭✭✭Cal04


    any chance i can jump in here for some advise, ye seem to know alot about stoves, flues, etc
    chimney query-2 fires, one chimney flue
    please read and advise
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showt...did=2056366609


  • #583
    cnocbui
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,110 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    bootser wrote: »
    Hi All, have finally read through entire thread!! still not sure weather to go ahead and get stove for two reasons.1- the wife LOVES her open fire finding it very difficult to budge her! 2- although i have a fairly new chimney(10 year old) i believe i'd want to get it lined, but if i line it for a stove and the wife hates the stove i cant really go back to an open fire!:( So was thinking of just cleaning and scraping the chimney and fitting somthing like a San remo inset for the coming winter to test the water so to speak! All going well would hope to line chimney and fit somthing like esse 301 next year.Any opinions!?:confused:

    There are European stoves that display a lot of flames, some with large areas of curved glass making the flames very visible.

    Lounge_1.jpg

    F_163_int01.jpg

    They are probably a bit more expensive than some of the simpler designs though.


  • #584
    Tisserand
    Registered Users Posts: 750 ✭✭✭Tisserand


    Hope you don't mind me joining in here for some advice. Has anybody installed a Dimplex Stove? If so, would appreciate some feedback. Was looking at an 8kw model today. Already have a Stanley Oisin 6.4kw but the last two winters, it just wasn't warm enough.


  • #585
    Kevincoolna
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3 ✭Kevincoolna


    Hello there,
    Just wondering if anyone has a Boru Carraig Mor 30Kw stove ,
    Is it hard on fuel, Im thinking of getting one, I have a 2500 sqft house running on bulk Gas for water and rads, I'm hoping to run my central heating from this stove, someone has recommended aTripp TR25 stove also, any idea's. I have 19 rads in total (including doubles) I will probably be only running about 16 though!


  • #586
    darklordsbane
    Registered Users Posts: 135 ✭✭darklordsbane


    Hi Guys
    sorry to butt in can anyone tell me if I can put a multi fuel stove into my large fire place the chimney is about 6 metres high I just want to burn wood coal turf etc dont want a boiler just a hot fire, I heard Charnwood are very good
    any help greatly appreciated
    Regards DLB


  • #587
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Is there a good link with the do and don'ts on flu install available?


  • #588
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    Is there a good link with the do and don'ts on flu install available?


    MI Flues


  • #589
    bozd
    Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    there is a lot in this thread and didnt see anything similar to what I want to do.

    I have a very old stove that the casing rusted out on and want to put it in my workshop for those freezing days, the budget is small so got hold of a stainless steel 12" pipe that is a very close fit - may have to grind rim on cast top and base by 1mm. there are the lugs to attach it to the top and base but I am wondering as the steel is 2mm thick will it expand too much with the heat and break off the lugs?

    Dont want to ruin the stove by finding out the hard way, it came out of an old school and the bricks are in pretty good nick so want to do it right.

    any advice welcome


  • #590
    cinneidej
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭cinneidej


    what is the best stove I can buy


  • #591
    PeteHeat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    bozd wrote: »
    there is a lot in this thread and didnt see anything similar to what I want to do.

    I have a very old stove that the casing rusted out on and want to put it in my workshop for those freezing days, the budget is small so got hold of a stainless steel 12" pipe that is a very close fit - may have to grind rim on cast top and base by 1mm. there are the lugs to attach it to the top and base but I am wondering as the steel is 2mm thick will it expand too much with the heat and break off the lugs?

    Dont want to ruin the stove by finding out the hard way, it came out of an old school and the bricks are in pretty good nick so want to do it right.

    any advice welcome

    Hi,

    It may be possible to reduce the diameter of the pipe using a crimper (not sure if that's the correct name).

    I know Oriel flues and Mi Flues have a machine that can do this, the thickness of the stainless steel should if anything be a benefit regarding expansion etc, I would recommend using a flue temperature gauge to ensure that you don't over fire the stove as that will prevent the bricks and casing from being burned out due to over hot fires.
    .


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  • #592
    PeteHeat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    cinneidej wrote: »
    what is the best stove I can buy

    Hi,

    First be truthful with yourself about the fuel available to you, most stoves on the market are not designed for burning coal so "Multi Fuel" does not mean burn anything in fact it is a term used a lot in Ireland because we have the option of turf and bord na Mona briquettes.

    If you think that you will be burning coal then make sure the manufacturer has designed the stove for burning coal, for example Hunter make stoves for coal burning.

    After that is down to personal taste and budget, ensure you allow sufficient funds for the flue which if existing may require lining or new stand alone will require twin wall stainless steel.
    .


  • #593
    cinneidej
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭cinneidej


    Thank you advise taken on board


  • #594
    bootser
    Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭bootser


    Hi all, just an update on what we went for in the end, got the Stanley cars and had it installed by a hetas trained installer. He cleaned and cameraed the chimney before declaring fit for a stove without a liner.NB also got a new fireplace! Anyway have had it 2 years now and basically the wife's opinon now is that we should have put it in Years before! We burn ecobrite, costs about €17 a bag but I can light the stove all day and still get the bag to last the week.


  • #595
    golfbgud
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 536 ✭✭✭golfbgud


    bootser wrote: »
    Hi all, just an update on what we went for in the end, got the Stanley cars and had it installed by a hetas trained installer. He cleaned and cameraed the chimney before declaring fit for a stove without a liner.NB also got a new fireplace! Anyway have had it 2 years now and basically the wife's opinon now is that we should have put it in Years before! We burn ecobrite, costs about €17 a bag but I can light the stove all day and still get the bag to last the week.

    Who did the install for you B? How much did it cost? I assume it was a "Cara"?
    Looks like it was done properly with the cleaning, camera etc. I've been toiling with the idea of a stove for a while now but need some good, reliable advice before I pull the trigger! Thanks.


  • #596
    bootser
    Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭bootser


    golfbgud wrote: »
    Who did the install for you B? How much did it cost? I assume it was a "Cara"?
    Looks like it was done properly with the cleaning, camera etc. I've been toiling with the idea of a stove for a while now but need some good, reliable advice before I pull the trigger! Thanks.
    Hi, dont know if i can name the installer,PM me for details if you want.It cost 1200 but we got stove,surround & steel backplate plus install for that,having priced arround it wasnt too bad but you might get cheaper now.It defo was done properly! and I would only say to you if installing an inset think about getting one with a back boiler,we still regret not getting one!Best of luck with your choice:D


  • #597
    owen85
    Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭owen85


    anyone know wheres the cheapest place to buy vermiculite in dublin preferably or in ireland if they can deliver. its for filling my chimneys


  • #598
    bozd
    Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Hi, anyone know best way to drill ss this thick. have just burnt out bit, cost 7 euros, didnt even get one hole finished. Had drill set at same speed and used oil on steel and then bit in water - I knew I would use 1 bit per 3 holes because thats what I got on the first bit - this second bit failing has stumped me - titanium bit any better?. thanks


  • #599
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    bozd wrote: »
    Hi, anyone know best way to drill ss this thick. have just burnt out bit, cost 7 euros, didnt even get one hole finished. Had drill set at same speed and used oil on steel and then bit in water - I knew I would use 1 bit per 3 holes because thats what I got on the first bit - this second bit failing has stumped me - titanium bit any better?. thanks

    Cobalt drill bit/ cordless drill slowest setting and oil should do the job


  • #600
    bozd
    Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Will try again, but slower this time. Had a real wobbly as burnt through the last bit so quick. fingers crossed. thanks


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  • #601
    bozd
    Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭bozd


    Bingo! having used the hand drill and not had great results I decided to use the drill press which I am more used to working and set it at the lowest setting - used lots of oil and didnt overdo the pressure. I had thought as it was a cylinder I couldnt get the drillpress over where I wanted to put the holes so I clamped it with big g-clamps to a table corner and it worked.


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