the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

8valve · 22-08-2020 9:02pm

cletus wrote: »

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

Halfords are usually good for toolbox bargains.

My better half is a TCM health practitioner so I got her a Stanley solid-based toolbag for 30 quid, for carting around her equipment; added security and discretion as nobody gives it a second glance. Male patients get a great laugh out of it.

I bought one of their steel drawer toolboxes in a sale and paid less than 40 quid for it. Decent quality, too.

8valve · 22-08-2020 9:11pm

Kerry_2008 wrote: »

Hi All, I am just asking for some advice. I have had a merida Matt's MTB for a few years now. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-au/bike/364/matts-65v. The past few years I have mainly used it on my commute so just swapped out the wheels for hybrid tyres.

I haven't cycled in the past year as I have problems with my back and chest that are made worse by my leaning position on the bike. I tried a friends bike the last day and it was an upright style da Vinci bike with the dutch style handle bars. My seating position was practically upright. I was able to do the Waterford Greenaway with no ill effects.

I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar.

Any advice welcome.

Absolutely worth doing if it gives you comfort/pain relief when cycling.

Have done this for a family member and it transformed their cycling experience for the better!

All you need to buy is an adjustable stem, dutch style handlebars of your choice, and treat yourself to a new pair of grips, so you can cut the old ones off, to make life easier!

Everything else can be just loosened to take them off the old bars and slipped into position on the new bars.

woody33 · 23-08-2020 4:57pm

woody33 wrote: »

Sorry but...can't get rid of v-brake squeal. No noise till I got new pads, I've cleaned the rim and pads and tried various toe-in or no toe-in settings, no difference. The front wheel is very slightly out of true, I admit. Could it be the pads? They are cheap eBay ones, but I've bought from the same UK guy before.

More extensive rim/pad cleaning, no difference. So, I cleaned off the half-worn Tektro branded pads I had taken removed and Lo! the squeak has gone!
Anyone have a favourite v-brake pad brand? Clarks cartridge type maybe?

Deano12345 · 27-08-2020 11:36pm

Anyone have any idea where I might get some small Zipp stickers? I’ve gotten a sprint sl stem that I’ll need to re-do the lacquer on, and it’s got the old zipp logo on it and I’d prefer the newer style.

Had a look around eBay/Amazon and nothing!

keane2097 · 28-08-2020 10:56am

ironictoaster wrote: »

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

The Galibier stuff always gets a good rep around here

https://galibier.cc/

I have the Tempest Pro rain jacket and in terms of bang for buck I couldn't fault it.

CantGetNoSleep · 30-08-2020 5:42pm

I've got a bike with the older RS505 hydraulic disc brakes (these were used with the previous version of the 105 groupset) and I've never been happy with the rear brake - it completely loses power every few weeks and you pull the lever and hit the handlebar without really slowing down at all. Yesterday I bled it, sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors. Was perfect at the start of the ride but after a long cobbled section (to be fair it was almost 5km on proper cobbles) the brake was completely gone again, essentially no stopping power at all from the rear brake which isn't very confidence inducing. Even pumping the lever wouldn't get it back working.

I've checked the bleed screw on the shifter and on the caliper and both seem to be sealed ok and the small ring is there and intact so I don't know if this is where air is getting into the system? Do I need to change the hoses entirely? Is there anywhere else I can check?

Would changing to 105 7000 shifters give any improvement in braking reliability? The RS505 are not that well thought of but I thought that this is due to them being too big and not the most comfortable. This is my bad weather bike so it is annoying to leave it for a few weeks and have to hope the brake is working the day before going out for a spin.

Also linked question - I've got an RS785 front caliper (this was the old Ultegra level). Are front and rear disc calipers the same?

cletus · 30-08-2020 6:01pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've got a bike with the older RS505 hydraulic disc brakes (these were used with the previous version of the 105 groupset) and I've never been happy with the rear brake - it completely loses power every few weeks and you pull the lever and hit the handlebar without really slowing down at all. Yesterday I bled it, sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors. Was perfect at the start of the ride but after a long cobbled section (to be fair it was almost 5km on proper cobbles) the brake was completely gone again, essentially no stopping power at all from the rear brake which isn't very confidence inducing. Even pumping the lever wouldn't get it back working.

I've checked the bleed screw on the shifter and on the caliper and both seem to be sealed ok and the small ring is there and intact so I don't know if this is where air is getting into the system? Do I need to change the hoses entirely? Is there anywhere else I can check?

Would changing to 105 7000 shifters give any improvement in braking reliability? The RS505 are not that well thought of but I thought that this is due to them being too big and not the most comfortable. This is my bad weather bike so it is annoying to leave it for a few weeks and have to hope the brake is working the day before going out for a spin.

Also linked question - I've got an RS785 front caliper (this was the old Ultegra level). Are front and rear disc calipers the same?

If it was me, I'd be trying to establish what's actually happening when you pull the brakes and have no braking power.

Is the caliper moving? If so, is it moving enough to contact the pads with the disc? The action at the caliper should determine what your next step is to rectify the problem

CantGetNoSleep · 30-08-2020 6:04pm

cletus wrote: »

If it was me, I'd be trying to establish what's actually happening when you pull the brakes and have no braking power.

Is the caliper moving? If so, is it moving enough to contact the pads with the disc? The action at the caliper should determine what your next step is to rectify the problem

The caliper does move but barely comes into contact with the disc rotor, not enough to stop the bike and barely even to slow it. You could probably ride with the lever pressed in

cletus · 30-08-2020 6:13pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

The caliper does move but barely comes into contact with the disc rotor, not enough to stop the bike and barely even to slow it. You could probably ride with the lever pressed in

Do you have to top up the brake fluid at all? If it needs to be topped up, you're losing it somewhere, because it should be a closed system. If you're not having to top it up, then you're getting air in somewhere. I'd start at one end, and check every join and seal as if you were doing it for the first time.

A good mantra for jobs like this is "Never trust the work the came before you, especially if it's your own"

fat bloke · 31-08-2020 12:39pm

Are 1x groupsets all disc braked, or is there such a thing as a 1x rim braked (road) set up?

joey100 · 01-09-2020 9:00am

Recently bought a set of Prime 38 wheels off wiggle. Came set up for quick release so bought the conversion kit to convert them to thru axle. Front was fine no issues. But on the back, when I tightened the conversion kit the freehub won't spin. Even if I tighten by hand, if i leave it loose the freehub spins tho. I'm probably missing something very simple but just can't figure it out.

Link to the rear conversion kit, https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-rd020-conversion-kit-12mm-x-142mm

CantGetNoSleep · 01-09-2020 11:10am

cletus wrote: »

Do you have to top up the brake fluid at all? If it needs to be topped up, you're losing it somewhere, because it should be a closed system. If you're not having to top it up, then you're getting air in somewhere. I'd start at one end, and check every join and seal as if you were doing it for the first time.

A good mantra for jobs like this is "Never trust the work the came before you, especially if it's your own"

Thanks - I can get it fixed by doing a "mini bleed" (where you just add attach the bleed cup & some fluid to the shifter and don't do a full bleed). You get the air bubbles out but it doesn't seem like a huge amount of liquid goes in. Normally this lasts a few weeks but this weekend it was gone again after one ride. It feels better now than it did out on the ride which makes me think it is air, but I couldn't rule out liquid escaping, possibly at the pistons.

I'm going to check where the brake hose connects to the shifter in case there is any issue there. If not it is probably a trip to the bike shop.

rayman1 · 01-09-2020 9:06pm

Will an 11-34 cassette work with a short cage Ultegra rear derailleur?
I know it's not recommended by Shimano but they are being very conservative.

cletus · 01-09-2020 9:14pm

I wanted to be able to carry just my own bike, without having to put on the 4 bike towbar rack, so I was looking at roof racks. Bought Halfords own rack on a whim, as it was 36 quid.

Tried setting it up this evening, and while all the adjustments are easy to make, in order to make the clamp reach the downtube, i'd have to move the roof bars ridiculously cloce together, to the point where they would be essentially useless for carrying anything else.

Time for the question. Do all roof racks require the roof bars to be quite close together, or is it just this set

brownian · 02-09-2020 4:57pm

No, most roof racks for bikes that I've had leave the bars in the usual place (about as far apart as the car allows, on non-estates). The bike rack has a relatively fixed point for the front bar, and the attachment point for the rear bar slides along the bike rack...hope that makes sense.

If you already have a tow bar, then (sorry!) you really want a 2-bike 'click on, click off' carrier liek the Thule 970 Xpress...that really is handy, and the rack I use far and away the most often. 65-80 euro; CRC or MicksGarage the obvious candidates.

cletus · 02-09-2020 6:35pm

brownian wrote: »

No, most roof racks for bikes that I've had leave the bars in the usual place (about as far apart as the car allows, on non-estates). The bike rack has a relatively fixed point for the front bar, and the attachment point for the rear bar slides along the bike rack...hope that makes sense.

If you already have a tow bar, then (sorry!) you really want a 2-bike 'click on, click off' carrier liek the Thule 970 Xpress...that really is handy, and the rack I use far and away the most often. 65-80 euro; CRC or MicksGarage the obvious candidates.

Thanks for the response. The roof rack I bought had the front fixed point at the hinge for the down tube clamp. Silly setup.

I already have a 4 bike towbar rack, don't really want to get another one and have the hassle of storing two.

I brought back the Halfords one today, and ordered a Thule rack, so we'll see

crosstownk · 02-09-2020 10:20pm

Plenty of cars and vans have fixed mounting points for transverse bars so it seems unlikely (or silly) that bars should require repositioning.

xckjoo · 04-09-2020 3:55pm

Question about if I need to replace a tyre or just a tube.

The young lad burst his tyre by cycling straight into a curb :rolleyes:. The inner tube is obvious gone but the sidewall of the tyre has a hole/slice in it now too. Do I need to replace the whole tyre or will the outward pressure from an intact tube be enough? From memory, the slice is around the size of a thumbnail

07Lapierre · 04-09-2020 4:07pm

xckjoo wrote: »

Question about if I need to replace a tyre or just a tube.

The young lad burst his tyre by cycling straight into a curb :rolleyes:. The inner tube is obvious gone but the sidewall of the tyre has a hole/slice in it now too. Do I need to replace the whole tyre or will the outward pressure from an intact tube be enough? From memory, the slice is around the size of a thumbnail

Sounds like you need a tyre and a tube.

CramCycle · 04-09-2020 4:22pm

Has the slice gone through or is it just on the surface?

xckjoo · 04-09-2020 4:34pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Has the slice gone through or is it just on the surface?

Will check later but nearly definite that it's gone through

Type 17 · 04-09-2020 4:58pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Sounds like you need a tyre and a tube.

Sadly, this is correct. Pump tyres every two weeks to prevent repeat issues.

cletus · 04-09-2020 9:38pm

crosstownk wrote: »

Plenty of cars and vans have fixed mounting points for transverse bars so it seems unlikely (or silly) that bars should require repositioning.

Picked up the Thule Freeride 523. It's Thule's budget offering, but streets ahead of the Halfords rack. And I didn't have to move the roof bars either

a148pro · 04-09-2020 10:14pm

Not really a maintenance q but is there any functional difference between 32 - 32 gearing and 34 - 34 gearing

And can you put a 34 cassette on a 32 ring (48 - 32)?

CramCycle · 04-09-2020 11:30pm

xckjoo wrote: »

Will check later but nearly definite that it's gone through

Then you need a new tube as it's just going to blow the tube out the slit. You might get unlucky and it holds until you hit a bump.

TychoCaine · 05-09-2020 7:06pm

a148pro wrote: »

Not really a maintenance q but is there any functional difference between 32 - 32 gearing and 34 - 34 gearing

And can you put a 34 cassette on a 32 ring (48 - 32)?

No functional difference between the two. 34/34 = 32/32.
You can run an cassette with any chainring, however you should make sure your rear derailleur can handle it.

CormacH94 · 07-09-2020 10:59am

Planning on upgrading my 10 speed Tiagra to 11 speed 105 - Recommendations for a wheelset to go with 105 groupset (If they are ever back in stock that is)? Was looking at just getting the R501's but is there anything to be had for 200 - 300?

ironictoaster · 07-09-2020 4:57pm

Dumb question.

Does anyone know what does plastic adapter things in the top right corner of this photo are called? Looking to buy em online

Looking to mount lock to my seat stay and I need those plastic things to do so

Type 17 · 07-09-2020 5:09pm

ironictoaster wrote: »

Dumb question.

Does anyone know what does plastic adapter things in the top right corner of this photo are called? Looking to buy em online

Looking to mount lock to my seat stay and I need those plastic things to do so

Ask in any LBS, that sells Abus locks - every lock comes with a full set, and they only get used about 1% of the time - they literally get thrown out/recycled every time a lock is fitted to a bike.

Not sure if they have a name, but I'd ask for "the packing collars that enable Abus brackets to be fitted to thinner parts of the frame"

They won't charge you (or if they try, leave, and go to a decent bike shop...)

fat bloke · 07-09-2020 7:18pm

fat bloke wrote: »

Are 1x groupsets all disc braked, or is there such a thing as a 1x rim braked (road) set up?

So stupid I had to ask it twice!

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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