[Deleted User] wrote: » I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like. I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p
Type 17 wrote: » ...dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)
grogi wrote: » Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...
cletus wrote: » I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread. I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble. I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense. Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc
Type 17 wrote: » Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.
Kerry_2008 wrote: » I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar. Any advice welcome.
Kerry_2008 wrote: » Hi All, I am just asking for some advice. I have had a merida Matt's MTB for a few years now. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-au/bike/364/matts-65v. The past few years I have mainly used it on my commute so just swapped out the wheels for hybrid tyres. I haven't cycled in the past year as I have problems with my back and chest that are made worse by my leaning position on the bike. I tried a friends bike the last day and it was an upright style da Vinci bike with the dutch style handle bars. My seating position was practically upright. I was able to do the Waterford Greenaway with no ill effects. I am just wondering if its practical to add a stem risers and dutch style handlebar to my current merida Matts to replicate the same position or is it a waster of time. The only tricky parts as far as I can see is moving the grip shifts / brakes to the new handle bar. Any advice welcome.
woody33 wrote: » Sorry but...can't get rid of v-brake squeal. No noise till I got new pads, I've cleaned the rim and pads and tried various toe-in or no toe-in settings, no difference. The front wheel is very slightly out of true, I admit. Could it be the pads? They are cheap eBay ones, but I've bought from the same UK guy before.
ironictoaster wrote: » New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread. Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?
CantGetNoSleep wrote: » I've got a bike with the older RS505 hydraulic disc brakes (these were used with the previous version of the 105 groupset) and I've never been happy with the rear brake - it completely loses power every few weeks and you pull the lever and hit the handlebar without really slowing down at all. Yesterday I bled it, sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors. Was perfect at the start of the ride but after a long cobbled section (to be fair it was almost 5km on proper cobbles) the brake was completely gone again, essentially no stopping power at all from the rear brake which isn't very confidence inducing. Even pumping the lever wouldn't get it back working. I've checked the bleed screw on the shifter and on the caliper and both seem to be sealed ok and the small ring is there and intact so I don't know if this is where air is getting into the system? Do I need to change the hoses entirely? Is there anywhere else I can check? Would changing to 105 7000 shifters give any improvement in braking reliability? The RS505 are not that well thought of but I thought that this is due to them being too big and not the most comfortable. This is my bad weather bike so it is annoying to leave it for a few weeks and have to hope the brake is working the day before going out for a spin. Also linked question - I've got an RS785 front caliper (this was the old Ultegra level). Are front and rear disc calipers the same?
cletus wrote: » If it was me, I'd be trying to establish what's actually happening when you pull the brakes and have no braking power. Is the caliper moving? If so, is it moving enough to contact the pads with the disc? The action at the caliper should determine what your next step is to rectify the problem
CantGetNoSleep wrote: » The caliper does move but barely comes into contact with the disc rotor, not enough to stop the bike and barely even to slow it. You could probably ride with the lever pressed in
cletus wrote: » Do you have to top up the brake fluid at all? If it needs to be topped up, you're losing it somewhere, because it should be a closed system. If you're not having to top it up, then you're getting air in somewhere. I'd start at one end, and check every join and seal as if you were doing it for the first time. A good mantra for jobs like this is "Never trust the work the came before you, especially if it's your own"
brownian wrote: » No, most roof racks for bikes that I've had leave the bars in the usual place (about as far apart as the car allows, on non-estates). The bike rack has a relatively fixed point for the front bar, and the attachment point for the rear bar slides along the bike rack...hope that makes sense. If you already have a tow bar, then (sorry!) you really want a 2-bike 'click on, click off' carrier liek the Thule 970 Xpress...that really is handy, and the rack I use far and away the most often. 65-80 euro; CRC or MicksGarage the obvious candidates.
xckjoo wrote: » Question about if I need to replace a tyre or just a tube. The young lad burst his tyre by cycling straight into a curb :rolleyes:. The inner tube is obvious gone but the sidewall of the tyre has a hole/slice in it now too. Do I need to replace the whole tyre or will the outward pressure from an intact tube be enough? From memory, the slice is around the size of a thumbnail
CramCycle wrote: » Has the slice gone through or is it just on the surface?
07Lapierre wrote: » Sounds like you need a tyre and a tube.
