the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Peter T · 07-03-2019 8:54am

Have you tried acetone ? If you cant get your hands on that maybe some nail varnish remover (Used to have acetone in it but has been taken out i think)

Weepsie · 07-03-2019 11:54am

Peter T wrote: »

Have you tried acetone ? If you cant get your hands on that maybe some nail varnish remover (Used to have acetone in it but has been taken out i think)

I have not.

I'm giving thought to trying this freezing penetrant spray out.

https://www.handyhardware.ie/product/77334/Arctic-Hayes-Arctic-Crack-It-Shock-Freeze-Release-Spray-400ml-CI400

loyatemu · 07-03-2019 1:12pm

some of these may not be available here, but I though it was an interesting look at how they work (there's a part 1 on his channel as well):

Charman921 · 08-03-2019 1:06pm

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

ofthelord · 08-03-2019 9:50pm

Hi All - apologies if this has been asked here before but i'm getting really frustrated this evening with the gears on my bike.
for some reason they won't shift up into the easiest gear. never had this issue before so at a loss trying to fix it the last hour.
All other gears shifting ok. Limiting is ok, I can shift into easiest gear by pulling the cable by hand while turning the pedals, but the shifter on the handle bar won't gear up past 2nd easiest gear.
Any suggestions appreciated. was hoping top get out on club spin in the morning so looking to get this fixed this evening if i can.
thanks

Type 17 · 08-03-2019 9:58pm

Probably the cable is too slack, and is a whole click/gear out - shift to the hardest gear/smallest cog and if you find the cable is even a little slack, then this is the issue.

If so, check/correct the H limiting screw, slacken the rear derailleur barrel adjuster, and then open the cable clamp and hold the cable's "tail" tightly while you re-tighten the clamp - if you do this correctly, the indexing will then be fine, and even if it's not perfect, it should be only a little out on the barrel adjuster.

Useful video

ED E · 08-03-2019 9:59pm

Small sprocket = released cable
Large sprocket = tense cable

If its not reaching the large sprocket then you've got slack in the cable, use the cable adjuster on the back of the rear derailleur to "lengthen" the outer cable.

ofthelord · 08-03-2019 10:16pm

Thanks so much to Type 17 and ED E for your replies.

Type 17 you were correct - on checking the cable it was slack when in the smallest cog. I unclamped the cable and tightened it and all good now.

That was a very frustrating hour I had spent trying to see the problem myself so thanks so much for your advice. So easy when you know how!

magicbastarder · 09-03-2019 1:26pm

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

do you have a photo of the cassette?

Type 17 · 09-03-2019 9:31pm

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

As magicbastarder says, a photo would be good.

You're familiar with a block, which is a screw-on freewheel with multiple sprockets on it.
Your current rear wheel is likely to be a freehub with a cassette on it - the freehub is part of the wheel*and it contains the pawls and some bearings, and the sprockets on it are removable - they slide on to it on splines, and are held on with a threaded lockring..

*The freehub is part of the wheel, but can be removed and replaced. however, only relatively expensive wheels have freehubs that can actually be bought as replacements - the cheaper wheels' freehubs aren't easily obtained, and it's cheaper to buy a new wheel.

Charman921 · 13-03-2019 6:23pm

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

saccades · 13-03-2019 9:53pm

Type 17 wrote: »

As magicbastarder says, a photo would be good.

You're familiar with a block, which is a screw-on freewheel with multiple sprockets on it.
Your current rear wheel is likely to be a freehub with a cassette on it - the freehub is part of the wheel*and it contains the pawls and some bearings, and the sprockets on it are removable - they slide on to it on splines, and are held on with a threaded lockring..

*The freehub is part of the wheel, but can be removed and replaced. however, only relatively expensive wheels have freehubs that can actually be bought as replacements - the cheaper wheels' freehubs aren't easily obtained, and it's cheaper to buy a new wheel.

A lot of the cheaper freehubs are rebranded novatech, if you can work out which, sjs cycles stock pretty much everything for them.

13-03-2019 10:43pm

Charman921 wrote: »

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

Good alternative to the powerwasher is one of those garden sprayers, you know the ones that hold about 5 litres of water you can pump up to give it pressure before spraying. Saves water though way less pressure etc but the main reason I use it is so that I don't have to get the hose out for the power washer and the extension lead.

Wishbone Ash · 13-03-2019 11:15pm

Charman921 wrote: »

....I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.....l

Pro rata, wages were much less years ago. Many items nowadays can still be repaired but it simply doesn't make financial sense as the labour costs for the repair will often exceed the value of the item being repaired.

North of 32 · 14-03-2019 9:48am

I took my rear wheel off to change a flat and noticed that there's a lot of play in the rear axle. On the non-drive side I can pull out the axle a few millimeters.

When I put the wheel back on there's side-to-side wobble.

I'm guessing (hoping) the lock nut just needs tightening? But I guess the bearings could be contaminated.

Type 17 · 14-03-2019 10:38am

If it only happened when you took the wheel off, it’ll be fine, but if it’s been loose for a while, then damage could have occurred. Open it up for a visual inspection and then make sure the drive side is locked up well and then set the preload on the non-drive side to finish.

cdaly_ · 14-03-2019 10:39am

Charman921 wrote: »

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

Power washer is a bad choice for bike cleaning. The pressure tends to wash oil/grease out of bearings. That may have contributed to your freehub issue.

cdaly_ · 14-03-2019 10:41am

North of 32 wrote: »

I took my rear wheel off to change a flat and noticed that there's a lot of play in the rear axle. On the non-drive side I can pull out the axle a few millimeters.

When I put the wheel back on there's side-to-side wobble.

I'm guessing (hoping) the lock nut just needs tightening? But I guess the bearings could be contaminated.

If it's a shimano hub with cup and cone bearings, you can do a strip/clean/grease/adjust on it. Fairly handy to do. Seek out youtube...

Weepsie · 15-03-2019 5:04pm

Weepsie wrote: »

I have not.

I'm giving thought to trying this freezing penetrant spray out.

https://www.handyhardware.ie/product/77334/Arctic-Hayes-Arctic-Crack-It-Shock-Freeze-Release-Spray-400ml-CI400

Picked up today. It is super at getting the frame super cold.

When you spray it inside the seattube, the outside frost's up. It's remains quite cold to the touch for a while after.

Don't think it'll help though. Then it's plus gas, then I'm giving up.

Fighting Tao · 15-03-2019 5:58pm

Weepsie wrote: »

Picked up today. It is super at getting the frame super cold.

When you spray it inside the seattube, the outside frost's up. It's remains quite cold to the touch for a while after.

Don't think it'll help though. Then it's plus gas, then I'm giving up.

Has anyone recommended a new bike yet?

Weepsie · 15-03-2019 6:13pm

I have a "new" frame. New, as in I bought it last year, and left it in my parents attic. I have everything to build it up too, except a derailleur clamp and some good quality cables. Got myself nice dynamo wheels.

Type 17 · 15-03-2019 7:55pm

Weepsie wrote: »

...Don't think it'll help though. Then it's plus gas, then I'm giving up.

I missed the start of your issue - is the frame steel, alu or carbon?

The last resort (which I used successfully on a steel frame) is to drill a 10mm hole across the seat post and put an old hub axle in it, then drill a 12+mm hole in the BB shell (with BB axle removed) so that you can (with the frame upside down) drop in a long metal rod (I used some 12mm rebar from a skip) directly down the seat tube, so it rests against the old axle across the seat post. You can then hammer out the seat post from 'below'.
Be sure to support the frame's top tube on soft wood, close to the seat tube join, to minimise the chances of damage.

I probably wouldn't try this unless you're prepared to lose the frame...

Weepsie · 15-03-2019 8:22pm

Alu seatpost in a steel frame alright. I don't fancy losing the frame. (Not too old Genesis Croix de Fer, that was neglected by previous) I didn't even have to do this. I rode it mostly fine as it was, but I felt a bit cramped sometimes.

Down the line, I may cut it off and file it out, but that'd be a over a few weeks probably.

SpatialPlanning · 15-03-2019 8:44pm

Questions:
How do I pump my tire? Have a small hand pump but struggling to inflate my
Tire with it.
Why is there a constant clicking noise from my gears/chain as if I'm mid gear change?
I'm a complete beginner. Did I make a mistake buying a nice bike?
Starting off, what should I focus on

Type 17 · 15-03-2019 8:57pm

SpatialPlanning wrote: »

Questions:
How do I pump my tire? Have a small hand pump but struggling to inflate my
Tire with it.
Why is there a constant clicking noise from my gears/chain as if I'm mid gear change?
I'm a complete beginner. Did I make a mistake buying a nice bike?
Starting off, what should I focus on

Small hand pumps are only for emergencies - you'll struggle to get past ~60PSI - Use a track pump for regular top-ups at home, and only use the hand pump out on the road.

Poor indexing - look at YouTube for adjusting rear derailleur. If the bike is very new, the shop you got it from will re-tune it for free.

No, buying a nice bike is a good move, ask for advice on here to keep it nice.

Focus on regular maintenance - find out about keeping the tyres pumped up and the chain clean and lubed.

15-03-2019 11:27pm

As Type 17 says it's a new bike it's likely due back at the shop for a free first service, there is a "bedding in" period on new bikes and they need to be adjusted after a few weeks/kilometres.

No harm in learning how to index etc yourself though I chased my tail for ohhhh about 2 hours the first time I did it

I think the videos I used were either GCN (global cycling network) or Park tools ones on youtube. I'll see if I can find them in a bit an edit.

Oh if you are going to be doing things yourself I'd recommend getting a stand for working on the bike, they can be got for reasonable money.

magicbastarder · 15-03-2019 11:46pm

Re the pump, get to a lidl and you might get one of the seven euro track pumps - if they've any left.

CramCycle · 15-03-2019 11:49pm

I have access to liquid nitrogen if your feeling stupid some evening

Weepsie · 16-03-2019 12:30am

I nearly would just to see what it could do.

I feel stupid most evenings. As I said, i've considered caustic soda. Living in an apartment block though, the only outdoor areas are shared, and that wouldn't be wise.

16-03-2019 12:41am

CramCycle wrote: »

I have access to liquid nitrogen if your feeling stupid some evening

This + a shiny new stream cleaner could have some potential for some capers :pac:

crosstownk · 18-03-2019 3:35pm

Lately the I’ve noticed what felt like chain skip. The chain was staying put on the correct sprocket but the rear derailleur cage was moving back and forth (not in and out) like it was being pulled forward by the chain. Suspecting a stiff link, I went to replace the chain as it is worn but I discovered significant lateral play in the jockey wheels - especially the lower one. I’m sure this is my problem.

My question is, am I better off to buy a complete RD (105 5800) for €50 or is it worth my while replacing the jockey wheels. CRC have a pair of BBB jockeys for €12. I’m well able to replace them DIY.

Has anyone done similar and do the BBB jockeys do the job?

magicbastarder · 18-03-2019 4:37pm

if you're happy it's just the jockey wheels, just replace them. it's a simple job. i'm 90% certain it was BBB replacements i used before.

i would disassemble and regrease my jockey wheels a couple of times a year anyway.

saccades · 18-03-2019 8:58pm

Weepsie wrote: »

I nearly would just to see what it could do.

I feel stupid most evenings. As I said, i've considered caustic soda. Living in an apartment block though, the only outdoor areas are shared, and that wouldn't be wise.

It's drain cleaner... Do it in the bath then flush with water. It'll clear all the hair and gunk out.

bsb1971 · 19-03-2019 12:53am

I've recently cold forged an old 531 frame in order to fit a 10 speed groupset to it. Everything seemed to go ok. But now I have one problem. When I try to cycle it, the rear wheel is coming out of centre, and rubs off the rear stay. I've tried tightening the wheel as much as I can, but it still seems to be coming loose. I've checked all the obvious things to me, but am now wondering if something is wrong with the frame since I increased the rear spacing. The frame was ok before this, as I had used it as a single speed. Anyone any ideas as to what might be wrong?

John Hutton · 19-03-2019 11:21am

bsb1971 wrote: »

I've recently cold forged an old 531 frame in order to fit a 10 speed groupset to it. Everything seemed to go ok. But now I have one problem. When I try to cycle it, the rear wheel is coming out of centre, and rubs off the rear stay. I've tried tightening the wheel as much as I can, but it still seems to be coming loose. I've checked all the obvious things to me, but am now wondering if something is wrong with the frame since I increased the rear spacing. The frame was ok before this, as I had used it as a single speed. Anyone any ideas as to what might be wrong?

Is the rear wheel actually coming out of centre or are you having to put it in off centre to avoid rubbing?

bsb1971 · 19-03-2019 11:52am

John Hutton wrote: »

Is the rear wheel actually coming out of centre or are you having to put it in off centre to avoid rubbing?

Seems to be coming off centre, but when I put the wheel in, I have to move it about to get it centred. Then clamp it. It seems to be spinning ok, but as soon as I try cycling, wheel goes to the left and starts rubbing off rear stay.

fat bloke · 19-03-2019 12:07pm

Question:

Do direct-mount (rim, roadbike) brakes only go on a direct mount frame / fork?

CramCycle · 19-03-2019 12:15pm

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

bsb1971 wrote: »

Seems to be coming off centre, but when I put the wheel in, I have to move it about to get it centred. Then clamp it. It seems to be spinning ok, but as soon as I try cycling, wheel goes to the left and starts rubbing off rear stay.

Sounds like the wheel is slipping, maybe the dropouts are worn a bit or the QR Skewer is not as tight as you think (it maybe slipping with age). Have you tried taking the springs out of the skewer and over tightening without them present, this solved an issue with an old skewer of mine

Alek · 19-03-2019 12:40pm

As I said, i've considered caustic soda.

Be SUPER careful with the stuff. Don't mix with hot water (may boil explosively), wear long rubber gloves and eye protection (!!!). Watch for splashes on your clothes, in case of skin contact wash under running water, or better apply vinegar.

Also, you need to have it fairly concentrated to dissolve the seatpost. Get the frame upside down in the bath and pour from the BB.

Alkali burns are nasty and heal ages, or so I've heard.

Weepsie · 19-03-2019 12:46pm

I want to get my deposit back when I move from the apartment, and I've damaged enough skin in the last year that I'm going to just carry on as is for now.

I will consider taking a hacksaw and file to it eventually, or just sell the damned thing to someone more determined. Should I every have a stuck tap, or rusty bolt etc, I have every product to tackle it now.

Alek · 19-03-2019 12:56pm

What's the size of the frame? Name your price too

Peter T · 19-03-2019 1:01pm

Nice move Alek, freak them out and then move in with the offer

John Hutton · 19-03-2019 3:00pm

bsb1971 wrote: »

Seems to be coming off centre, but when I put the wheel in, I have to move it about to get it centred. Then clamp it. It seems to be spinning ok, but as soon as I try cycling, wheel goes to the left and starts rubbing off rear stay.

I had a similar problem after I cold set an old frame and it turns out that with the stays moved what looked centered actually wasn't and the wheel would slip to being "actually" centred resulting in rubbing. I didn't think too much about it and just put a smaller tire I had on it which I had planned to do anyway in order to fit fenders on.

I would suggest ditching the skewer and going old school just with bolts and really tighten it and see how you get on. As another poster said, skewers can wear out.

TychoCaine · 19-03-2019 8:30pm

fat bloke wrote: »

Question:

Do direct-mount (rim, roadbike) brakes only go on a direct mount frame / fork?

Yes. You need a direct-mount specific frame

Ray Bloody Purchase · 25-03-2019 9:48am

I took off the mudguards on my bike. Do i put the screws back into the frame to stop stuff getting in and rattling around the place or just leave them out?

triggermortis · 25-03-2019 10:06am

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I took off the mudguards on my bike. Do i put the screws back into the frame to stop stuff getting in and rattling around the place or just leave them out?

I’d leave them out. Make sure you bag them and keep them with the mudguards for when you refit them though

irishrover99 · 26-03-2019 12:44pm

Can anyone tell me if these bearings are the right ones for a CAAD 12 and if they are any good.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/rotor-bb30-steel-bottom-bracket-kit/rp-prod130493?gs=1

CantGetNoSleep · 27-03-2019 2:39pm

I'm putting together a bike with a compact chainset and 50-34 derailleur - how do I tell which length chain I need to order?

Miklos · 27-03-2019 2:52pm

I had a 50/34 and 32/11 for a hilly week away and used the same chain as I had with 53/39 and 28/11 so I'd imagine you'd probably get away with the standard length.

Type 17 · 27-03-2019 2:55pm

The size of the chainset, cassette and capacity of the rear derailleur don't define the required chain length - the length of the chainstays also counts, but even measuring that won't give you an answer (there are no charts).

Unless it's an extremely long-chainstay bike coupled with a huge cassette (probably a touring frame or other long wheelbase type) and if you can fit more than three fingers between the seat tube and the rear tyre, then it might be an issue, but otherwise almost any chain you buy will work.

If it's a compact (ie: not a triple chainset) and not a huge cassette (>32t largest), then the handiest way (Shimano's method) to size the chain you're fitting is to put the derailleurs in the highest gear (big ring/smallest sprocket), thread the chain through, and then measure the overlap so that the bolts for the two jockey wheels of the rear derailleur are vertical (go a tiny bit shorter if things are less than two links out).

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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