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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Alek

What's the size of the frame? Name your price too

Alek

As I said, i've considered caustic soda.

Be SUPER careful with the stuff. Don't mix with hot water (may boil explosively), wear long rubber gloves and eye protection (!!!). Watch for splashes on your clothes, in case of skin contact wash under running water, or better apply vinegar.

Also, you need to have it fairly concentrated to dissolve the seatpost. Get the frame upside down in the bath and pour from the BB.

Alkali burns are nasty and heal ages, or so I've heard.

CramCycle

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

bsb1971 wrote: »

Seems to be coming off centre, but when I put the wheel in, I have to move it about to get it centred. Then clamp it. It seems to be spinning ok, but as soon as I try cycling, wheel goes to the left and starts rubbing off rear stay.

Sounds like the wheel is slipping, maybe the dropouts are worn a bit or the QR Skewer is not as tight as you think (it maybe slipping with age). Have you tried taking the springs out of the skewer and over tightening without them present, this solved an issue with an old skewer of mine

fat bloke

Question:

Do direct-mount (rim, roadbike) brakes only go on a direct mount frame / fork?

bsb1971

John Hutton wrote: »

Is the rear wheel actually coming out of centre or are you having to put it in off centre to avoid rubbing?

Seems to be coming off centre, but when I put the wheel in, I have to move it about to get it centred. Then clamp it. It seems to be spinning ok, but as soon as I try cycling, wheel goes to the left and starts rubbing off rear stay.

John Hutton

bsb1971 wrote: »

I've recently cold forged an old 531 frame in order to fit a 10 speed groupset to it. Everything seemed to go ok. But now I have one problem. When I try to cycle it, the rear wheel is coming out of centre, and rubs off the rear stay. I've tried tightening the wheel as much as I can, but it still seems to be coming loose. I've checked all the obvious things to me, but am now wondering if something is wrong with the frame since I increased the rear spacing. The frame was ok before this, as I had used it as a single speed. Anyone any ideas as to what might be wrong?

Is the rear wheel actually coming out of centre or are you having to put it in off centre to avoid rubbing?

bsb1971

I've recently cold forged an old 531 frame in order to fit a 10 speed groupset to it. Everything seemed to go ok. But now I have one problem. When I try to cycle it, the rear wheel is coming out of centre, and rubs off the rear stay. I've tried tightening the wheel as much as I can, but it still seems to be coming loose. I've checked all the obvious things to me, but am now wondering if something is wrong with the frame since I increased the rear spacing. The frame was ok before this, as I had used it as a single speed. Anyone any ideas as to what might be wrong?

saccades

Weepsie wrote: »

I nearly would just to see what it could do.

I feel stupid most evenings. As I said, i've considered caustic soda. Living in an apartment block though, the only outdoor areas are shared, and that wouldn't be wise.

It's drain cleaner... Do it in the bath then flush with water. It'll clear all the hair and gunk out.

magicbastarder

if you're happy it's just the jockey wheels, just replace them. it's a simple job. i'm 90% certain it was BBB replacements i used before.

i would disassemble and regrease my jockey wheels a couple of times a year anyway.

crosstownk

Lately the I’ve noticed what felt like chain skip. The chain was staying put on the correct sprocket but the rear derailleur cage was moving back and forth (not in and out) like it was being pulled forward by the chain. Suspecting a stiff link, I went to replace the chain as it is worn but I discovered significant lateral play in the jockey wheels - especially the lower one. I’m sure this is my problem.

My question is, am I better off to buy a complete RD (105 5800) for €50 or is it worth my while replacing the jockey wheels. CRC have a pair of BBB jockeys for €12. I’m well able to replace them DIY.

Has anyone done similar and do the BBB jockeys do the job?

[Deleted User]

CramCycle wrote: »

I have access to liquid nitrogen if your feeling stupid some evening

This + a shiny new stream cleaner could have some potential for some capers :pac:

CramCycle

I have access to liquid nitrogen if your feeling stupid some evening

magicbastarder

Re the pump, get to a lidl and you might get one of the seven euro track pumps - if they've any left.

[Deleted User]

As Type 17 says it's a new bike it's likely due back at the shop for a free first service, there is a "bedding in" period on new bikes and they need to be adjusted after a few weeks/kilometres.

No harm in learning how to index etc yourself though I chased my tail for ohhhh about 2 hours the first time I did it

I think the videos I used were either GCN (global cycling network) or Park tools ones on youtube. I'll see if I can find them in a bit an edit.

Oh if you are going to be doing things yourself I'd recommend getting a stand for working on the bike, they can be got for reasonable money.

Type 17

SpatialPlanning wrote: »

Questions:
How do I pump my tire? Have a small hand pump but struggling to inflate my
Tire with it.
Why is there a constant clicking noise from my gears/chain as if I'm mid gear change?
I'm a complete beginner. Did I make a mistake buying a nice bike?
Starting off, what should I focus on

Small hand pumps are only for emergencies - you'll struggle to get past ~60PSI - Use a track pump for regular top-ups at home, and only use the hand pump out on the road.

Poor indexing - look at YouTube for adjusting rear derailleur. If the bike is very new, the shop you got it from will re-tune it for free.

No, buying a nice bike is a good move, ask for advice on here to keep it nice.

Focus on regular maintenance - find out about keeping the tyres pumped up and the chain clean and lubed.

SpatialPlanning

Questions:
How do I pump my tire? Have a small hand pump but struggling to inflate my
Tire with it.
Why is there a constant clicking noise from my gears/chain as if I'm mid gear change?
I'm a complete beginner. Did I make a mistake buying a nice bike?
Starting off, what should I focus on

Type 17

Weepsie wrote: »

...Don't think it'll help though. Then it's plus gas, then I'm giving up.

I missed the start of your issue - is the frame steel, alu or carbon?

The last resort (which I used successfully on a steel frame) is to drill a 10mm hole across the seat post and put an old hub axle in it, then drill a 12+mm hole in the BB shell (with BB axle removed) so that you can (with the frame upside down) drop in a long metal rod (I used some 12mm rebar from a skip) directly down the seat tube, so it rests against the old axle across the seat post. You can then hammer out the seat post from 'below'.
Be sure to support the frame's top tube on soft wood, close to the seat tube join, to minimise the chances of damage.

I probably wouldn't try this unless you're prepared to lose the frame...

Fighting Tao

Weepsie wrote: »

Picked up today. It is super at getting the frame super cold.

When you spray it inside the seattube, the outside frost's up. It's remains quite cold to the touch for a while after.

Don't think it'll help though. Then it's plus gas, then I'm giving up.

Has anyone recommended a new bike yet?

cdaly_

North of 32 wrote: »

I took my rear wheel off to change a flat and noticed that there's a lot of play in the rear axle. On the non-drive side I can pull out the axle a few millimeters.

When I put the wheel back on there's side-to-side wobble.

I'm guessing (hoping) the lock nut just needs tightening? But I guess the bearings could be contaminated.

If it's a shimano hub with cup and cone bearings, you can do a strip/clean/grease/adjust on it. Fairly handy to do. Seek out youtube...

cdaly_

Charman921 wrote: »

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

Power washer is a bad choice for bike cleaning. The pressure tends to wash oil/grease out of bearings. That may have contributed to your freehub issue.

Type 17

If it only happened when you took the wheel off, it’ll be fine, but if it’s been loose for a while, then damage could have occurred. Open it up for a visual inspection and then make sure the drive side is locked up well and then set the preload on the non-drive side to finish.

North of 32

I took my rear wheel off to change a flat and noticed that there's a lot of play in the rear axle. On the non-drive side I can pull out the axle a few millimeters.

When I put the wheel back on there's side-to-side wobble.

I'm guessing (hoping) the lock nut just needs tightening? But I guess the bearings could be contaminated.

Wishbone Ash

Charman921 wrote: »

....I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.....l

Pro rata, wages were much less years ago. Many items nowadays can still be repaired but it simply doesn't make financial sense as the labour costs for the repair will often exceed the value of the item being repaired.

[Deleted User]

Charman921 wrote: »

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

Good alternative to the powerwasher is one of those garden sprayers, you know the ones that hold about 5 litres of water you can pump up to give it pressure before spraying. Saves water though way less pressure etc but the main reason I use it is so that I don't have to get the hose out for the power washer and the extension lead.

saccades

Type 17 wrote: »

As magicbastarder says, a photo would be good.

You're familiar with a block, which is a screw-on freewheel with multiple sprockets on it.
Your current rear wheel is likely to be a freehub with a cassette on it - the freehub is part of the wheel*and it contains the pawls and some bearings, and the sprockets on it are removable - they slide on to it on splines, and are held on with a threaded lockring..

*The freehub is part of the wheel, but can be removed and replaced. however, only relatively expensive wheels have freehubs that can actually be bought as replacements - the cheaper wheels' freehubs aren't easily obtained, and it's cheaper to buy a new wheel.

A lot of the cheaper freehubs are rebranded novatech, if you can work out which, sjs cycles stock pretty much everything for them.

Charman921

When I clean my carbon framed bike I power wash it to clean off any suds from the cleaning solution I use. The power wash is for maybe 1 minute. When finished I then dry off the derailleur and re oil it sparingly. All works well after all that

Type 17

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

As magicbastarder says, a photo would be good.

You're familiar with a block, which is a screw-on freewheel with multiple sprockets on it.
Your current rear wheel is likely to be a freehub with a cassette on it - the freehub is part of the wheel*and it contains the pawls and some bearings, and the sprockets on it are removable - they slide on to it on splines, and are held on with a threaded lockring..

*The freehub is part of the wheel, but can be removed and replaced. however, only relatively expensive wheels have freehubs that can actually be bought as replacements - the cheaper wheels' freehubs aren't easily obtained, and it's cheaper to buy a new wheel.

magicbastarder

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

do you have a photo of the cassette?

ofthelord

Thanks so much to Type 17 and ED E for your replies.

Type 17 you were correct - on checking the cable it was slack when in the smallest cog. I unclamped the cable and tightened it and all good now.

That was a very frustrating hour I had spent trying to see the problem myself so thanks so much for your advice. So easy when you know how!

ED E

Small sprocket = released cable
Large sprocket = tense cable

If its not reaching the large sprocket then you've got slack in the cable, use the cable adjuster on the back of the rear derailleur to "lengthen" the outer cable.