the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 07-05-2018 10:53pm

you should be able to read it off the side of the tyres; the rapid probably uses 'standard' wheels, so look for a marking on the side of the tyre that says something like 700x25c or 700x32c.
the second number is the width of the tyre in mm; if you see 700, it's the standard road bike diameter.

if you bring it into any decent local bike shop, they should have replacement tyres to hand.

Type 17 · 07-05-2018 10:54pm

Look on the sidewalls of the tyres - you'll see some number like these: 28-622 (700 x 28c).

The first ones are the ERTRO size - 28mm wide and diameter of 622mm (at the tyre/rim join), and the others are the older metric measure - 700mm diameter at the tyre tread and 28mm wide.

Your tyres could be anywhere from 23-32mm wide (and you can choose different widths to replace the originals, for a change to the comfort/speed trade-off), but all Rapids have this diameter tyres/wheels, regardless of the frame size.

You'll need 622(/700c) tubes if you need replacements (you might not), and you can use tubes with a slightly smaller width than the tyres, but avoid ones with a bigger width than your tyres, as they will be wrinkled on fitting, which in the medium-term, will cause wear on the folds, resulting in a puncture.

vg88 · 07-05-2018 11:03pm

Thanks guys

Thargor · 09-05-2018 12:06pm

The cantilever brakes on my junk bike have gone to sh1t, it's an old Raleigh MTB. I have access to a few wrecked MTBs all with calliper brakes, what are the chances of me being able to swap them out? Easy or impossible? Just the front will do...

Weepsie · 09-05-2018 12:21pm

Thargor wrote: »

The cantilever brakes on my junk bike have gone to sh1t, it's an old Raleigh MTB. I have access to a few wrecked MTBs all with calliper brakes, what are the chances of me being able to swap them out? Easy or impossible? Just the front will do...

You'd need to make sure they have enough clearance first of all. Maybe change the cables, and do some adjustment. Cantis are tempermental.

I might have an old pair of Tektro Oryx that I no longer use if they're of any use.

Thargor · 09-05-2018 3:13pm

Thanks Weepsie for the offer I might end up getting back to you about it.

So it's generally doable then? The same mounting points etc? I don't know a whole lot about brakes.

Type 17 · 09-05-2018 3:42pm

You can convert to linear-pull brakes (v-brakes), because the frame bosses are the same, but be aware that the pull ratio of the levers is different, so you may need new levers too.

FMG · 10-05-2018 10:16pm

Hi lads, I have a triple chainset with the numbers 48,38,26 on the sprockets. Its am old rockhopper that serves me well around town. The sprockets can be removed/ replaced separately. My question is that seen as the sprockets seem a bit bent and mis-shaped is it possibly to buy replacements and what do I look for online or even can I buy these parts used here on the forum ?. I have pics on google photo's but cannot link sorry.

loyatemu · 11-05-2018 11:00am

Type 17 wrote: »

You can convert to linear-pull brakes (v-brakes), because the frame bosses are the same, but be aware that the pull ratio of the levers is different, so you may need new levers too.

I replaced the canti brakes on my beater bike with this v-brake set, includes levers, cables the lot. Massive improvement - of course sods law the freewheel died in the bike the following week and I ended up dumping it, but I kept the brakes and they're now on my sons bike.

saccades · 11-05-2018 6:00pm

FMG wrote: »

Hi lads, I have a triple chainset with the numbers 48,38,26 on the sprockets. Its am old rockhopper that serves me well around town. The sprockets can be removed/ replaced separately. My question is that seen as the sprockets seem a bit bent and mis-shaped is it possibly to buy replacements and what do I look for online or even can I buy these parts used here on the forum ?. I have pics on google photo's but cannot link sorry.

Looking for chain rings or a chainset.

For mid to high end chainsets you can buy replacement chain rings. For cheaper chainsets they are often pinned in place and you need to replace the lot.

The important number after the number of teeth (you have listed) is the BCD (104 rings bells) to get the matching bolt hole diameter from the axle and the number of arms, normally 4 or 5.

You will find that your chain and cassette (the multiple sprockets at the back) will have all mated together over the years of use and will all need to be replaced otherwise the chain will repeatedly slip.

I don't know how old your bike is, it might have a separate bottom bracket Inthe bottom of the bike that the chainset (sometimes called a crankset) arms are fitted to, or it might be a more modern 2 piece with an external bottom bracket.

Any shop can do this, you might be a little surprised at the price as all the bits that might be required add up. Removing an ancient bottom bracket can take up a number of hours and knuckles.

If you are handy and happy to buy the tools needed it's perfectly possible to do at home.

Wishbone Ash · 11-05-2018 6:21pm

Have Tiagra 30T cassettes gone off the market? I can't find any in any of the usual online sites.

I've been using them for a few years now as they're relatively inexpensive compared to Ulterga ones. Seems to be loads of 32's which I don't particularly want and the 25's would be heavy going on 20% gradients.

I'll settle for a 28T if the 30's are not being made any more but thought I'd ask here first.

FMG · 11-05-2018 6:25pm

saccades wrote: »

Looking for chain rings or a chainset.

For mid to high end chainsets you can buy replacement chain rings. For cheaper chainsets they are often pinned in place and you need to replace the lot.

The important number after the number of teeth (you have listed) is the BCD (104 rings bells) to get the matching bolt hole diameter from the axle and the number of arms, normally 4 or 5.

You will find that your chain and cassette (the multiple sprockets at the back) will have all mated together over the years of use and will all need to be replaced otherwise the chain will repeatedly slip.

I don't know how old your bike is, it might have a separate bottom bracket Inthe bottom of the bike that the chainset (sometimes called a crankset) arms are fitted to, or it might be a more modern 2 piece with an external bottom bracket.

Any shop can do this, you might be a little surprised at the price as all the bits that might be required add up. Removing an ancient bottom bracket can take up a number of hours and knuckles.

If you are handy and happy to buy the tools needed it's perfectly possible to do at home.

Its the 3 sprockets in the front, the gap between them fluctuates a bit and sometimes the chain slips between them. Its an old Specialised Rockhopper prob mid 90's but for what I do it was perfect. ( quick spin in town and I could be certain no scummy would be interested).
I haven't a clue re the BCD and the sprockets can come off seperate also the cranks.
I can use the middle sprocket up front and all the rear so it does get me around and your right about the cost, got a price of €150.
I'll just use it while I look out for something to suit me.
Thanks Saccades, great reply.

Paul_Mc1988 · 11-05-2018 8:20pm

Wishbone Ash wrote:

Have Tiagra 30T cassettes gone off the market? I can't find any in any of the usual online sites.

Some on blacks . Co. Uk and retto . Co . Uk sorry i cant post links

saccades · 11-05-2018 9:15pm

FMG wrote: »

Its the 3 sprockets in the front, the gap between them fluctuates a bit and sometimes the chain slips between them. Its an old Specialised Rockhopper prob mid 90's but for what I do it was perfect. ( quick spin in town and I could be certain no scummy would be interested).
I haven't a clue re the BCD and the sprockets can come off seperate also the cranks.
I can use the middle sprocket up front and all the rear so it does get me around and your right about the cost, got a price of €150.
I'll just use it while I look out for something to suit me.
Thanks Saccades, great reply.

Happy to help.

Ah, now I know the era I can advise you properly.

It's a square taper bottom bracket, Shimano alivio groupset, 7 speed hyperdrive-C, well it was originally.

Get onto retrobike.co.uk, post a wanted add and why. Mention you are in Ireland, most people are happy to help on old bikes, will be dirt cheap to get a like for like replacement at that level as the stuff people want are higher end and have alivio floating about unloved. Does the whole crank wobble about, the arms or just the rings btw?

Might still cost a chunk to get that fitted though.

I'd suggest that you go to Halfords and spend 110 euro on the adult ridge 26" bike if there is nothing sentimenal about the rockhopper. Give it a quick **** spray of undercoat all over everything, then badly hammerite the frame to make it undesirable to thieves.

Just bought the nipper the smaller version at 68 euro and it's a crazy low price for a perfectly functional bike.

Although pretty much everything on it will swap over to the rockhopper if you wanted.

Wishbone Ash · 11-05-2018 10:23pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Some on blacks . Co. Uk and retto . Co . Uk sorry i cant post links

Great stuff Paul. 2 ordered from Blacks. (Never heard of them before!). Thanks.

FMG · 12-05-2018 7:18pm

Saccades, I suppose its not worth the bother of fixing up esp with bikes so well priced new. I can use it as is for a while and will buy soon. Great help altogether, thank you so much.

Paul_Mc1988 · 13-05-2018 1:26pm

Wishbone Ash wrote:

Great stuff Paul. 2 ordered from Blacks. (Never heard of them before!). Thanks.

Glad i could help. I use an app called cycling bargains and it pulls from every English site crc, wiggle, Evans and a host of small ones you would never hear of. You can do a simple search and it nevet fails ams gives you the cheapest option first. Its literally save me 100s.

vg88 · 14-05-2018 2:19pm

Got new tyres the other day as advised here so thanks guys!

I took the wheel off and realised a plastic bag got mashed up in the gears. I never noticed this took about 30 minutes to peel off, now I have at least 7kpm higher speed

North of 32 · 14-05-2018 7:55pm

The shop I bought my bike from recommends an inspection after 500km. I bought it just over a month ago and I've done almost 500km in the last 3 weeks. 90% has been on roads and the rest on pretty easy gravel trails.

I've been keeping it fairly clean, lubing the chain etc - is 500km too soon for an inspection?

I'm quite keen to prevent long-term damage because I cannot really afford to replace or fix breakages.

14-05-2018 8:06pm

Any reputable shop worth it's salt will be telling you to bring it back for an inspection/check after the bike has had a chance to "bed in" usually after a month or so many kilometres and should be free.

saccades · 14-05-2018 8:43pm

Wot he said, cables stretch from new and the gears/brakes will need tweaking.

A quick check of bolts and quick release stuff too.

Thargor · 14-05-2018 10:32pm

Thargor wrote: »

The cantilever brakes on my junk bike have gone to sh1t, it's an old Raleigh MTB. I have access to a few wrecked MTBs all with calliper brakes, what are the chances of me being able to swap them out? Easy or impossible? Just the front will do...

Weepsie wrote: »

You'd need to make sure they have enough clearance first of all. Maybe change the cables, and do some adjustment. Cantis are tempermental.

I might have an old pair of Tektro Oryx that I no longer use if they're of any use.

Type 17 wrote: »

You can convert to linear-pull brakes (v-brakes), because the frame bosses are the same, but be aware that the pull ratio of the levers is different, so you may need new levers too.

Well that was relatively painless. I just slid the brake levers and brakes off a wrecked MTB I found in a skip and slid them onto mine and its like a new bike, should have done it ages ago, plug and play

jamesd · 14-05-2018 11:01pm

Looking to fit a chain catcher to my bike, front derailleur is ultegra 6800 di2. (Braze on)
Looking at the install sheet it it says remove bolt that holds on front derailleur, I am worried now about lining up the mechanical when I'm bolting it back on again - I shouldn't have to do any adjustments since there is no cable since di2?

Paul_Mc1988 · 15-05-2018 10:50am

No once its in the exact same position you should be good to go. Put a piece of tape above and below to mark it and just peal of when done.

jamesd · 15-05-2018 3:41pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

No once its in the exact same position you should be good to go. Put a piece of tape above and below to mark it and just peal of when done.

Thanks very much Paul, will give it a try.

Roberto_gas · 16-05-2018 6:29am

Lads what all things do i need to maintain my brand new bike ? Degreaser, chain oil are top two in my list...anything else ?

Milk_Tray · 16-05-2018 10:46pm

I have a TT bike and run an 11-25 rear and 52/36

I feel I need more gears on flats and down hill and losing speed from it- what do I need to upgrade is it the front sprocket/ crank? I presume it’s a new crank set but unsure what’s a good number to get

07Lapierre · 16-05-2018 10:56pm

Your spinning out a 52x11? Impressive! You can't get a 10 sprocket, so your only option is a bigger chainring..e.g. A 53 or more.

What chainset do you have?

CramCycle · 17-05-2018 5:32am

As a matter of interest, what is your cadence like when your losing speed?

Type 17 · 17-05-2018 1:07pm

Roberto_gas wrote: »

Lads what all things do i need to maintain my brand new bike ? Degreaser, chain oil are top two in my list...anything else ?

Track pump for weekly tyre pressure checks/top-ups.
Chain-wear gauge, to keep an eye on the wear, so you can replace the chain before it wears the cassette too much and you need a new one of them as well.
Light spray oil for non-chain parts that need occasional lubing - front derailleur pivots, brake pivots, etc (keep spray away from disc brakes - contaminated discs/pads = squealing).

CramCycle · 17-05-2018 1:22pm

Always handy to have a second bike as well :pac:

ED E · 17-05-2018 1:32pm

Roberto_gas wrote: »

Lads what all things do i need to maintain my brand new bike ? Degreaser, chain oil are top two in my list...anything else ?

In case you haven't already: Saddle bag with all the essentials. Practice with Co2 at home.

CramCycle · 18-05-2018 10:30am

Rolled my bike into the office and went to hide it in a cupboard as people started filling up the stairwells with bikes and the fire marshals rightly went mental. When I put it up on its back wheel about a litre of water flowed out.

Its an alu frame, is there anything to worry about that i should take it apart and clean / dry? Or will just taking off the seat post and leaving it for a few hours be OK?

07Lapierre · 18-05-2018 11:09am

CramCycle wrote: »

Rolled my bike into the office and went to hide it in a cupboard as people started filling up the stairwells with bikes and the fire marshals rightly went mental. When I put it up on its back wheel about a litre of water flowed out.

Its an alu frame, is there anything to worry about that i should take it apart and clean / dry? Or will just taking off the seat post and leaving it for a few hours be OK?

Yes, remove the seat post, turn the bike upside down and drain any water out.
Remember to re-grease the seatpost when refitting!

Type 17 · 18-05-2018 12:16pm

Bottom bracket unit may be water-damaged, but it’s either properly sealed and it’s ok, or the damage is already done, and you’ll need a new one soon.

CramCycle · 18-05-2018 12:33pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Bottom bracket unit may be water-damaged, but it’s either properly sealed and it’s ok, or the damage is already done, and you’ll need a new one soon.

Tis sealed and only a few weeks old, it was only out in the wet once, another 100ml came out when I took out the seat tube.

Type 17 · 18-05-2018 9:44pm

Then the BB is probably fine, but long-term, water sitting inside a frame sits in the lowest part, the BB shell, and no seal lasts forever...

North of 32 · 19-05-2018 11:42am

I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

Paul_Mc1988 · 19-05-2018 11:52am

Iv been considering replacing mine also due to a creak from the left side but i dont have a clue about BB standards. Generally if im replacing something i like to give it a bit of an upgrade. From the giant website it has a shimano BB-RS500 Press fit. Its running a 105 groupset. Anyone point me in the direction of a upgrade or what i can put in?

magicbastarder · 19-05-2018 1:14pm

North of 32 wrote: »

It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

might sound a little odd, but put a tiny drop of lube around each spoke nipple. just in case it's a spoke flexing a little where it meets the rim. has fixed creaking for me twice previously.

07Lapierre · 19-05-2018 7:26pm

North of 32 wrote: »

I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

Remove your rear wheel..clean the frame dropouts and the wheel axle ends. Put a drop of oil on your little finger and apply the oil to the dropouts and the axle. Do this for the front wheel also. Refit your wheels, make it sure they are tight and I bet it solves your problem.

Wishbone Ash · 22-05-2018 8:31pm

I'm a bit puzzled!

I changed the cassette and chain (10 speed) on one of my bikes today - something I've done countless times.

When I tightened up the lock nut, there was still a bit of play in the sprockets even though I used the 1mm spacer provided. I fitted a second spacer and this time it tightened up as normal.

I took it for a test ride and it appears to be working fine but I'm a bit perplexed. I never had to use a second spacer before and I've used several types of cassettes (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra). Any ideas?

Milk_Tray · 22-05-2018 8:36pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I'm a bit puzzled!

I changed the cassette and chain (10 speed) on one of my bikes today - something I've done countless times.

When I tightened up the lock nut, there was still a bit of play in the sprockets even though I used the 1mm spacer provided. I fitted a second spacer and this time it tightened up as normal.

I took it for a test ride and it appears to be working fine but I'm a bit perplexed. I never had to use a second spacer before and I've used several types of cassettes (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra). Any ideas?

Was there a spacer missing from the last few cogs?

North of 32 · 22-05-2018 8:52pm

North of 32 wrote: »

I recently went through a large puddle and since then there's been a creaking in my bike when I put a lot of torque through the right pedal, but only when I set off.

The sound seems to come from the big ring/right pedal/right crank/bottom bracket area. I don't think it's the front derailleur and the sound is definitely not coming from the rear of the bike. The sound stops once I get going. It's only there when I'm setting off, not while I'm cycling (as far as I can tell)

It's puzzling. I have lubed the chain since but it has not improved. Any ideas?

Turns out the noise was coming from a dirty drive train. After a thorough clean the noise disappeared.

Wishbone Ash · 22-05-2018 9:33pm

Milk_Tray wrote: »

Was there a spacer missing from the last few cogs?

Do you mean the normal plastic spacer between the smaller cogs? They are all present and inserted correctly. (Otherwise the chain wouldn't have changed sprockets properly).

dahat · 28-05-2018 8:59pm

If I try to move the crank arms there is some play which seems like a BB to me, safe to assume this?
It seems to be a BB72, tcr advanced 1.

Any idea on lbs charges for a replacement? Headset last week and bb this week.... Gggrrgghhhh

Izoard · 28-05-2018 10:13pm

Rubbing sound coming from the cranks (Canyon Ultimate).

Sounds for all the world as a rub on the rim (it is not , but lots of commentary when on a group ride...:o), have had a few attempts to lube the cranks/bearings, but no joy?

brianomc · 29-05-2018 9:08pm

A friend of mine bought a secondhand mountain bike with UST wheels and tubeless tyres. He wants to go with tubes instead, the bike will never be used on trails or anything, just roads/cycleways.

Has anyone any experience with this? Is it as easy as just sticking a tube and a clincher tyre on and away he goes? It's a 26" Mavic xm819 rim.

CramCycle · 30-05-2018 11:07am

dahat wrote: »

If I try to move the crank arms there is some play which seems like a BB to me, safe to assume this?
It seems to be a BB72, tcr advanced 1.

Any idea on lbs charges for a replacement? Headset last week and bb this week.... Gggrrgghhhh

BB will be under 30euro plus labour. If there is not much work involved then sub 40euro

brianomc wrote: »

A friend of mine bought a secondhand mountain bike with UST wheels and tubeless tyres. He wants to go with tubes instead, the bike will never be used on trails or anything, just roads/cycleways.

Has anyone any experience with this? Is it as easy as just sticking a tube and a clincher tyre on and away he goes? It's a 26" Mavic xm819 rim.

would he just no leave it as is for the moment and carry a tube/pump? This said, it is tubeless ready so as you asked, he can just stick on a suitable clincher and tube.

brianomc · 30-05-2018 11:29am

CramCycle wrote: »

would he just no leave it as is for the moment and carry a tube/pump? This said, it is tubeless ready so as you asked, he can just stick on a suitable clincher and tube.

Cheers, he wanted to change it from thick MTB tyres to maybe a 35mm with a more commuter-tyre like profile.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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