the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Thargor · 18-09-2019 9:48pm

I have to cycle 20 km tomorrow morning and I just pulled a broken spoke off the back wheel on my roadbike, the other 29 look fine, can I chance it?

cdaly_ · 19-09-2019 10:28am

Chance it? Probably.

riclad · 19-09-2019 5:21pm

If I put a 26 inch x 1.5 tube mountain bike into a 24 x 1.5 inch tyre on a front wheel of a mountain bike will it work ?
will it be safe to use at low speed for a few hours ? the wheel is a standard 24 inch type .

cdaly_ · 19-09-2019 5:55pm

Maybe for a few hours if you take care to distribute the wrinkles evenly. It'll chafe a hole over time though.

EDit · 20-09-2019 9:45am

I recently had a situation where I was attempting to change my stem and while trying to remove the top cap, I ended up taking out the entire expander plug thingy from the front fork. It seems i probably overtightened the top cap screw at some point and it basically got wedged into the screw part of the expander plug (see top picture below). Anyway, the top cap screw is not coming out, so I ordered a new expander plug (pretty cheap off the internet*) but it has come with what might be an extra part that wasn’t on the one removed from the bike ( see bottom picture below....it’s the thin metal sheath around the outside).

As the bike is only ~5months old and was bought from new, I’m wondering why that part was not used....or should I not be using that sheath and it’s just part of the packaging?

*the downside of this is that the item came with no instructions

cdaly_ · 20-09-2019 10:16am

I'm gonna say the old sheath is still inside your fork. I presume its purpose is to prevent the expander plug from distorting the steerer.

EDit · 20-09-2019 11:00am

cdaly_ wrote: »

I'm gonna say the old sheath is still inside your fork. I presume its purpose is to prevent the expander plug from distorting the steerer.

Thanks...yeah, I thought of that too, but it is definitely not in the fork (shone a torch light down there and it’s dirty and dusty,but definitely no sheath).

Your comment on the purpose of the sheath makes sense

cjt156 · 20-09-2019 2:12pm

Could it be a shim for different diameters of steerer tube? (if such things exist)

m5ex9oqjawdg2i · 21-09-2019 4:20pm

Anybody have any idea what length spoke I need for a 26" Cube Acid (think it's 2011, Lime green grey and black, this color. Thanks.

rayman1 · 21-09-2019 9:19pm

Catalina Poor Speech wrote: »

Anybody have any idea what length spoke I need for a 26" Cube Acid (think it's 2011, Lime green grey and black, this color. Thanks.

Why don't you just measure the spokes you have???

m5ex9oqjawdg2i · 23-09-2019 1:27pm

rayman1 wrote: »

Why don't you just measure the spokes you have???

Would you believe that there's a specific tool for that? I don't have one.

There are a lot of sizes available and I am unsure which size I will need. Tried searching for the Cube specs but there's no mention of the spoke size. Is every spoke the same length or can they be a mix and match of lengths?

Large bottle small glass · 23-09-2019 1:32pm

Catalina Poor Speech wrote: »

Would you believe that there's a specific tool for that? I don't have one.

There are a lot of sizes available and I am unsure which size I will need. Tried searching for the Cube specs but there's no mention of the spoke size. Is every spoke the same length or can they be a mix and match of lengths?

Front spoke, rear drive side or rear non drive side?

I have the same era bike wheels sitting on a wall in the way collecting dust if you want donor wheels.

From my fairly good memory they are pretty weak wheels if you are giving the bike a bit of rough off road punishment.

Type 17 · 23-09-2019 2:08pm

Catalina Poor Speech wrote: »

Would you believe that there's a specific tool for that? I don't have one.

There are a lot of sizes available and I am unsure which size I will need. Tried searching for the Cube specs but there's no mention of the spoke size. Is every spoke the same length or can they be a mix and match of lengths?

Just measure from the inside of the hook of the spoke at the hub, to the surface of the rim and add 2-3mm to account for the bit of spoke in the top of the nipple.

Spokes are usually measured in 2mm increments, so just get the closest to your figure - all you want to avoid is a spoke being too short (not enough threads gripping the nipple) or too long (threads bottom out in the nipple before correct tension is reached and/or spoke protrudes through the rim tape).

Spokes are usually the same length on both sides of the wheel, but if there is a deep dish on the rear, the drive side spokes may be a few mm shorter, so measure a spoke on the same side as the broken one.

It's important to get the length right if you're building a whole wheel, but one or two mm isn't going to be an issue with a single replacement.

m5ex9oqjawdg2i · 25-09-2019 10:34am

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

Front spoke, rear drive side or rear non drive side?

I have the same era bike wheels sitting on a wall in the way collecting dust if you want donor wheels.

From my fairly good memory they are pretty weak wheels if you are giving the bike a bit of rough off road punishment.

Thanks for the offer, i'm located in Germany so I can't take you up on it.
The back wheel is buckled due to the lost spokes, so it may not be repairable but I am going to give it a shot.

Can't tell if they are great wheels but they have a lot of kms on them, mostly road but also a lot of offroad and some downhill slopes.

cloudatlas · 25-09-2019 6:51pm

Is there any way to stop rust progression if you have to have your bike outside quite a lot and aren't in locations where you would cover the bike?

Type 17 · 25-09-2019 7:05pm

This stuff is pretty good: http://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

I buy it in a local motorbike shop (Megabikes on Wexford St, Dublin) - amazing stuff - I also use it on our soap shelf in the shower (it's getting old, but fits in the corner just right) and it keeps the rust away for about a year between treatments, despite getting a shower or two almost every day.

flatface · 25-09-2019 10:18pm

Oh wise boardsies, help a brother out.

I’m building up a dolan preffissio with 11speed 105 5800 from my old bike. All going super but now the rear wheel won’t fit.

It’s a khamsin wheel with an 11 speed cassette on it. It seems to be too wide to fit in between the dropouts. Front one went in perfect!
Any ideas?

Type 17 · 26-09-2019 7:09pm

Google says this is an alu frame (is yours alu?)

What's the difference in spacing?

Assuming that it's alu, if the shortfall is less than about 5mm, you can gently pull the frame open as you put the wheel in, but don't try to over-stretch the stays so that they stay permanently wide enough (AKA cold-setting), as you can over-do it and damage the frame, or else one stay will move more than the other, causing the frame to be mis-aligned.

flatface · 26-09-2019 9:08pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Google says this is an alu frame (is yours alu?)

What's the difference in spacing?

Assuming that it's alu, if the shortfall is less than about 5mm, you can gently pull the frame open as you put the wheel in, but don't try to over-stretch the stays so that they stay permanently wide enough (AKA cold-setting), as you can over-do it and damage the frame, or else one stay will move more than the other, causing the frame to be mis-aligned.

I talked to Dolan and they said the same + file the paint in the painted dropout. Good news is they said they would sort me out if there were problems so +1 for after sales.

CramCycle · 26-09-2019 9:25pm

flatface wrote: »

I talked to Dolan and they said the same + file the paint in the painted dropout. Good news is they said they would sort me out if there were problems so +1 for after sales.

I found Dolan quite good for after sales.

loyatemu · 27-09-2019 11:02am

cloudatlas wrote: »

Is there any way to stop rust progression if you have to have your bike outside quite a lot and aren't in locations where you would cover the bike?

out of curiosity what is likely to rust on an alloy-framed bike?

my hack bike lives outside in all weather and has only surface rust on some of the chromed components and screws but is otherwise fine.

My previous hack bike had issues with the headset and freewheel presumably due to water ingress removing the lubrication on the bearings.

Weepsie · 28-09-2019 9:38am

Snapped a stem bolt. Not quite sure how to remove it, but needs to go to lbs anyway so maybe they'll know

CantGetNoSleep · 28-09-2019 11:59am

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

rayman1 · 28-09-2019 8:29pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

I have this BBB Torque Wrench https://www.sigmasports.com/item/BBB/BTL-73-TorqueFix-Torque-Wrench/14RF and it is excellent.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 28-09-2019 10:18pm

Weepsie wrote: »

Snapped a stem bolt. Not quite sure how to remove it, but needs to go to lbs anyway so maybe they'll know

If it’s a face plate bolt then remove the other three and then rotate the faceplate anti-clockwise to remove it. You’ll then be left with the sheared Bolt which you can grab with a pair of pliers and unscrew.

If it’s one of the pinch bolts on the steerer end then get a set of easy-outs and remove it yourself.

cloudatlas · 28-09-2019 10:36pm

loyatemu wrote: »

out of curiosity what is likely to rust on an alloy-framed bike?

my hack bike lives outside in all weather and has only surface rust on some of the chromed components and screws but is otherwise fine.

My previous hack bike had issues with the headset and freewheel presumably due to water ingress removing the lubrication on the bearings.

The screws were rusting and the cogs, I think it would be best to give it a spray as it was a second hand bike, I returned it though as I had a lot of trouble with it, looking for a new bike now but it's proving difficult as all the students are back and they are buying them, very frustrating.

Large bottle small glass · 29-09-2019 2:15pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-t-handle-hex-key-6mm.html

Something like that. I have Holex hex tools myself for bike. For cracking open or tightening bolts use the short end; keep the ball point end for the low forces

Go to a good engineering/hardware shop, and buy a good wire cutters and a couple of screwdrivers while there.

Weepsie · 29-09-2019 2:19pm

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

If it’s a face plate bolt then remove the other three and then rotate the faceplate anti-clockwise to remove it. You’ll then be left with the sheared Bont which you can grab with a pair of pliers and unscrew.

If it’s one of the pinch bolts on the steerer end then get a set of easy-outs and remove it yourself.

Already gone to LBS as they can fix the mess I made up of recabling and the dodgy headset.

Might invest in some easy out however.

LollipopJimmy · 01-10-2019 12:50pm

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-t-handle-hex-key-6mm.html

Something like that. I have Holex hex tools myself for bike. For cracking open or tightening bolts use the short end; keep the ball point end for the low forces

Go to a good engineering/hardware shop, and buy a good wire cutters and a couple of screwdrivers while there.

I have the above, I am a fan of Teng Tools

dahat · 01-10-2019 1:40pm

Will the rubber covers for 6800 levers fit 5800 levers as well? I can't seem to find 5800 ones at all.

LollipopJimmy · 01-10-2019 1:58pm

https://shop.snapon.com/product/SGABM900BR

Currently on offer

brownian · 01-10-2019 2:19pm

Hi all,
how hard is it to remove a crankset? I want to replace my outer chainring.

SRAM Red GXP crankset.

Thanks!

Utter Consternation · 01-10-2019 2:29pm

Getting a new bike delivered shortly. I was looking at a video online on putting it together and they say to torque the pedals to 35nm.

Is it necessary to be exact with this?

I have a torque wrench that only goes to 24nm (this one).

magicbastarder · 01-10-2019 3:11pm

brownian wrote: »

Hi all,
how hard is it to remove a crankset? I want to replace my outer chainring.

SRAM Red GXP crankset.

Thanks!

is it the same system as here?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzaWF9ydar8

CramCycle · 01-10-2019 3:18pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Getting a new bike delivered shortly. I was looking at a video online on putting it together and they say to torque the pedals to 35nm.

Is it necessary to be exact with this?

I have a torque wrench that only goes to 24nm (this one).

As in the actual pedals you screw in, not the crankset, then no, no need to be exact at all. I put a bit of grease on the threads, hand tighten it, give it one push with a spanner or Allen Key and thats it.

Utter Consternation · 01-10-2019 3:28pm

CramCycle wrote: »

As in the actual pedals you screw in, not the crankset, then no, no need to be exact at all. I put a bit of grease on the threads, hand tighten it, give it one push with a spanner or Allen Key and thats it.

Yeah, just the pedals that are screwed in. I got the grease in advance so i'm all kitted out.

Cheers Cram.

Utter Consternation · 15-10-2019 1:26pm

The handlebars on my bike are not lined up with the front wheel after i took a spill the other day.

What's the best way to straighten them out?

magicbastarder · 15-10-2019 1:45pm

what's the model of the bike? this was the e-bike, yeah?

Utter Consternation · 15-10-2019 1:59pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

what's the model of the bike? this was the e-bike, yeah?

Yeah, it was the ebike. See attached pics.

magicbastarder · 15-10-2019 2:10pm

you should just need to loosen the two allen bolts either side of the stem slightly, and straighten the alignment of the wheel. no need to go near the one on the top cap.

Utter Consternation · 15-10-2019 2:13pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

you should just need to loosen the two allen bolts either side of the stem slightly, and straighten the alignment of the wheel. no need to go near the one on the top cap.

Cheers mb, that's exactly what i wasn't sure of!

Type 17 · 19-10-2019 4:57pm

Type 17 wrote: »

...

My "good" bike has an 11-speed drivetrain which costs a bit to replace (Chainreaction lists the cassette and large chainring at around €180), so it's cheaper for me to change the chain early - here's my notes on chain replacements since I got the bike in July '18 - I'm still on the (new-looking) original cassette and chainrings - (note how soft the Shimano original chain is):

Chain / km's done / wear when changed / (km's per chain) / Lube used
Shimano 8000: 0-250 -0.60% (250km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1130: 250-1,200 -0.55% (950km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1170: 1,200-2,200 -0.60% (1,000km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1130: 2,200-3,330 -0.60% (1,130km) Smoove Universal
SRAM 1170: 3,330-

I posted the above in this thread earlier this year (May) as part of another question, but I have changed my chain maintenance regime, with good results, so I thought it might be useful to others:

(last chain from table above)
SRAM 1170: 3,330-6,050 -0.50% (2,720) Smoove

Note how this last/current chain has lasted a lot better than the ones before (it's still on the bike, and still at 0.5%) - the difference is that I stopped using chain degreaser and re-lubing the chain and now simply wipe the outside of it with a dry cloth and then re-lube it with fresh Smoove (a lot quicker too!).
Smoove is a wax-type lube, so while I need to wipe/re-lube more often (every 150-200km), because it doesn't attract dirt in the same way as a wet lube, I don't seem to need to clean the chain internally, and not stripping the lube out of the inside of the chain seems to be a better method.

I doubt that I could do this with a wet lube, as in that scenario, the dirt/contaminants already inside the chain just get mixed with the fresh lube, whereas I think that, with a wax lube, the dirt gets squeezed out with the wax as the bike is ridden, and then gets wiped away before fresh wax gets applied - it goes on like milk, soaks into the chain by capilliary action and then the water dries away (needs to be applied at least an hour before riding, preferably the night before a ride).

Of course, others on here have already said that they get many more km's from their chains, but I thought that seeing as I had managed to improve the wear-rate significantly with only a small change, that it might be of benefit to someone.

CantGetNoSleep · 20-10-2019 5:14pm

IMG_20191020_174659.jpg

I've asked a few questions on this thread so thought I'd post the final result. Just finished a project that I have been slowly working on for the past 6 months or so (well still not happy with shifting & brake rub, and I think my chain is still a link or two too long but it is going for a test ride!).

It is a Cannondale CAAD12 with mainly Ultegra 8000 & hydraulic discs. I picked up most of the parts new but from second hand sites or old stock to keep cost down. Considered giving up and just bringing it to a bike shop a few times but happy that I stuck it out. Going for hydraulic discs on a first build wasn't the smartest idea as it was a whole new element to learn, but now at least I'm comfortable with bleeding etc.

Will be used as a winter bike this year & then transferred to my parents house next summer to use when I'm home on holiday.

Then on to my next project...

Utter Consternation · 21-10-2019 11:04am

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

CramCycle · 21-10-2019 11:28am

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

I have a wooden shed as well, so a lock on the door won't stop many thieves as they just break the door. Thee expensive stuff is under the stairs but in the shed i use multiple Kryptonite U locks I have picked up over the years and padlock the bikes to each other and other stuff in the shed, so the there is no way to remove any of them without removing them all, which you cannot do without knocking down a wall of the shed. I mean you could but you would have to break alot of things in the shed and it would take a fair bit of time, they will probably damage something but not steal it.

LollipopJimmy · 21-10-2019 3:38pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Any option to get an anchor point into the ground? Apart from that, big chains and chain it to everything in the shed - I have two big ladders that I chain bikes to. Although as above the good stuff stays in the house

Utter Consternation · 21-10-2019 4:25pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Any option to get an anchor point into the ground? Apart from that, big chains and chain it to everything in the shed - I have two big ladders that I chain bikes to. Although as above the good stuff stays in the house

No, there's a timber floor in the shed with clay underneath it.

If i'm not there it usually means that my good bike isn't either as i commute every day on it. If they want to tackle it at night when i'm there it's right outside the window, so if i have it chained onto everything else in there, best of luck to them not waking me as i'm an extremely light sleeper.

cdaly_ · 21-10-2019 5:15pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

No, there's a timber floor in the shed with clay underneath it.

Some kind of a steel frame under the floor with anchors bolted to it would make anything short of demolition of the shed impractical.

micheal100 · 23-10-2019 7:03am

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Give a look at some of the recent videos (as in maybe a month ago) on GMBN on youtube, Doddy covers off a few different options for home. Most have been covered already, but worth a look

Altheus · 23-10-2019 12:53pm

Question - I have a Wahoo Kickr, and a Di2 Ultegra bike on it. It seems like no matter what I do, I just can't get the cassette to line up, it's always slipping a little, but never smooth. Any tips on how to get it right? I was thinking it's because it's a SRAM cassette and an Ultegra rear derailleur.

Things I've tried:

1. Setting the cassette size in the e-tube software
2. Microadjustments of the rear derailleur
3. Refitting/sitting the cassette to the Kickr.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Comments