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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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flatface

Type 17 wrote: »

Google says this is an alu frame (is yours alu?)

What's the difference in spacing?

Assuming that it's alu, if the shortfall is less than about 5mm, you can gently pull the frame open as you put the wheel in, but don't try to over-stretch the stays so that they stay permanently wide enough (AKA cold-setting), as you can over-do it and damage the frame, or else one stay will move more than the other, causing the frame to be mis-aligned.

I talked to Dolan and they said the same + file the paint in the painted dropout. Good news is they said they would sort me out if there were problems so +1 for after sales.

CramCycle

flatface wrote: »

I talked to Dolan and they said the same + file the paint in the painted dropout. Good news is they said they would sort me out if there were problems so +1 for after sales.

I found Dolan quite good for after sales.

loyatemu

cloudatlas wrote: »

Is there any way to stop rust progression if you have to have your bike outside quite a lot and aren't in locations where you would cover the bike?

out of curiosity what is likely to rust on an alloy-framed bike?

my hack bike lives outside in all weather and has only surface rust on some of the chromed components and screws but is otherwise fine.

My previous hack bike had issues with the headset and freewheel presumably due to water ingress removing the lubrication on the bearings.

CantGetNoSleep

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

rayman1

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

I have this BBB Torque Wrench https://www.sigmasports.com/item/BBB/BTL-73-TorqueFix-Torque-Wrench/14RF and it is excellent.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Weepsie wrote: »

Snapped a stem bolt. Not quite sure how to remove it, but needs to go to lbs anyway so maybe they'll know

If it’s a face plate bolt then remove the other three and then rotate the faceplate anti-clockwise to remove it. You’ll then be left with the sheared Bolt which you can grab with a pair of pliers and unscrew.

If it’s one of the pinch bolts on the steerer end then get a set of easy-outs and remove it yourself.

cloudatlas

loyatemu wrote: »

out of curiosity what is likely to rust on an alloy-framed bike?

my hack bike lives outside in all weather and has only surface rust on some of the chromed components and screws but is otherwise fine.

My previous hack bike had issues with the headset and freewheel presumably due to water ingress removing the lubrication on the bearings.

The screws were rusting and the cogs, I think it would be best to give it a spray as it was a second hand bike, I returned it though as I had a lot of trouble with it, looking for a new bike now but it's proving difficult as all the students are back and they are buying them, very frustrating.

Large bottle small glass

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Anyone recommend a good set of allen keys and torque wrench? Willing to pay a bit more for a set that won't round bolts

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-t-handle-hex-key-6mm.html

Something like that. I have Holex hex tools myself for bike. For cracking open or tightening bolts use the short end; keep the ball point end for the low forces

Go to a good engineering/hardware shop, and buy a good wire cutters and a couple of screwdrivers while there.

LollipopJimmy

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-t-handle-hex-key-6mm.html

Something like that. I have Holex hex tools myself for bike. For cracking open or tightening bolts use the short end; keep the ball point end for the low forces

Go to a good engineering/hardware shop, and buy a good wire cutters and a couple of screwdrivers while there.

I have the above, I am a fan of Teng Tools

dahat

Will the rubber covers for 6800 levers fit 5800 levers as well? I can't seem to find 5800 ones at all.

LollipopJimmy

https://shop.snapon.com/product/SGABM900BR

Currently on offer

brownian

Hi all,
how hard is it to remove a crankset? I want to replace my outer chainring.

SRAM Red GXP crankset.

Thanks!

Utter Consternation

Getting a new bike delivered shortly. I was looking at a video online on putting it together and they say to torque the pedals to 35nm.

Is it necessary to be exact with this?

I have a torque wrench that only goes to 24nm (this one).

magicbastarder

brownian wrote: »

Hi all,
how hard is it to remove a crankset? I want to replace my outer chainring.

SRAM Red GXP crankset.

Thanks!

is it the same system as here?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzaWF9ydar8

CramCycle

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Getting a new bike delivered shortly. I was looking at a video online on putting it together and they say to torque the pedals to 35nm.

Is it necessary to be exact with this?

I have a torque wrench that only goes to 24nm (this one).

As in the actual pedals you screw in, not the crankset, then no, no need to be exact at all. I put a bit of grease on the threads, hand tighten it, give it one push with a spanner or Allen Key and thats it.

Utter Consternation

CramCycle wrote: »

As in the actual pedals you screw in, not the crankset, then no, no need to be exact at all. I put a bit of grease on the threads, hand tighten it, give it one push with a spanner or Allen Key and thats it.

Yeah, just the pedals that are screwed in. I got the grease in advance so i'm all kitted out.

Cheers Cram.

Utter Consternation

The handlebars on my bike are not lined up with the front wheel after i took a spill the other day.

What's the best way to straighten them out?

magicbastarder

what's the model of the bike? this was the e-bike, yeah?

Utter Consternation

magicbastarder wrote: »

what's the model of the bike? this was the e-bike, yeah?

Yeah, it was the ebike. See attached pics.

magicbastarder

you should just need to loosen the two allen bolts either side of the stem slightly, and straighten the alignment of the wheel. no need to go near the one on the top cap.

Utter Consternation

magicbastarder wrote: »

you should just need to loosen the two allen bolts either side of the stem slightly, and straighten the alignment of the wheel. no need to go near the one on the top cap.

Cheers mb, that's exactly what i wasn't sure of!

Type 17

Type 17 wrote: »

...

My "good" bike has an 11-speed drivetrain which costs a bit to replace (Chainreaction lists the cassette and large chainring at around €180), so it's cheaper for me to change the chain early - here's my notes on chain replacements since I got the bike in July '18 - I'm still on the (new-looking) original cassette and chainrings - (note how soft the Shimano original chain is):

Chain / km's done / wear when changed / (km's per chain) / Lube used
Shimano 8000: 0-250 -0.60% (250km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1130: 250-1,200 -0.55% (950km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1170: 1,200-2,200 -0.60% (1,000km) MucOff Hydro Dynamic
SRAM 1130: 2,200-3,330 -0.60% (1,130km) Smoove Universal
SRAM 1170: 3,330-

I posted the above in this thread earlier this year (May) as part of another question, but I have changed my chain maintenance regime, with good results, so I thought it might be useful to others:

(last chain from table above)
SRAM 1170: 3,330-6,050 -0.50% (2,720) Smoove

Note how this last/current chain has lasted a lot better than the ones before (it's still on the bike, and still at 0.5%) - the difference is that I stopped using chain degreaser and re-lubing the chain and now simply wipe the outside of it with a dry cloth and then re-lube it with fresh Smoove (a lot quicker too!).
Smoove is a wax-type lube, so while I need to wipe/re-lube more often (every 150-200km), because it doesn't attract dirt in the same way as a wet lube, I don't seem to need to clean the chain internally, and not stripping the lube out of the inside of the chain seems to be a better method.

I doubt that I could do this with a wet lube, as in that scenario, the dirt/contaminants already inside the chain just get mixed with the fresh lube, whereas I think that, with a wax lube, the dirt gets squeezed out with the wax as the bike is ridden, and then gets wiped away before fresh wax gets applied - it goes on like milk, soaks into the chain by capilliary action and then the water dries away (needs to be applied at least an hour before riding, preferably the night before a ride).

Of course, others on here have already said that they get many more km's from their chains, but I thought that seeing as I had managed to improve the wear-rate significantly with only a small change, that it might be of benefit to someone.

CantGetNoSleep

Attachment not found.

I've asked a few questions on this thread so thought I'd post the final result. Just finished a project that I have been slowly working on for the past 6 months or so (well still not happy with shifting & brake rub, and I think my chain is still a link or two too long but it is going for a test ride!).

It is a Cannondale CAAD12 with mainly Ultegra 8000 & hydraulic discs. I picked up most of the parts new but from second hand sites or old stock to keep cost down. Considered giving up and just bringing it to a bike shop a few times but happy that I stuck it out. Going for hydraulic discs on a first build wasn't the smartest idea as it was a whole new element to learn, but now at least I'm comfortable with bleeding etc.

Will be used as a winter bike this year & then transferred to my parents house next summer to use when I'm home on holiday.

Then on to my next project...

Utter Consternation

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

CramCycle

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

I have a wooden shed as well, so a lock on the door won't stop many thieves as they just break the door. Thee expensive stuff is under the stairs but in the shed i use multiple Kryptonite U locks I have picked up over the years and padlock the bikes to each other and other stuff in the shed, so the there is no way to remove any of them without removing them all, which you cannot do without knocking down a wall of the shed. I mean you could but you would have to break alot of things in the shed and it would take a fair bit of time, they will probably damage something but not steal it.

LollipopJimmy

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Any option to get an anchor point into the ground? Apart from that, big chains and chain it to everything in the shed - I have two big ladders that I chain bikes to. Although as above the good stuff stays in the house

Utter Consternation

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Any option to get an anchor point into the ground? Apart from that, big chains and chain it to everything in the shed - I have two big ladders that I chain bikes to. Although as above the good stuff stays in the house

No, there's a timber floor in the shed with clay underneath it.

If i'm not there it usually means that my good bike isn't either as i commute every day on it. If they want to tackle it at night when i'm there it's right outside the window, so if i have it chained onto everything else in there, best of luck to them not waking me as i'm an extremely light sleeper.

cdaly_

Utter Consternation wrote: »

No, there's a timber floor in the shed with clay underneath it.

Some kind of a steel frame under the floor with anchors bolted to it would make anything short of demolition of the shed impractical.

micheal100

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Give a look at some of the recent videos (as in maybe a month ago) on GMBN on youtube, Doddy covers off a few different options for home. Most have been covered already, but worth a look

Altheus

Question - I have a Wahoo Kickr, and a Di2 Ultegra bike on it. It seems like no matter what I do, I just can't get the cassette to line up, it's always slipping a little, but never smooth. Any tips on how to get it right? I was thinking it's because it's a SRAM cassette and an Ultegra rear derailleur.

Things I've tried:

1. Setting the cassette size in the e-tube software
2. Microadjustments of the rear derailleur
3. Refitting/sitting the cassette to the Kickr.