Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

1218219221223224327

Comments

  • Moderators Posts: 12,425 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    After recently failing its ensiti on rust (it absolutely blitzed everything else as expected) I got a bit of time to sort it.

    Usual rust spot, drain plugs rotted. Genius place to put them in the rear floorpan

    Nothing much to see, rip out the interior


    Then find out the TIG welder just will not tolerate crap steel :(

    Big thanks to kilianmanning for the use of his welder :D still driving round with no carpet enjoying that exhaust note.... :p

    Cleaned it up too, not cleaned in about 3k miles/4 weeks. I don't have the time for it... :(

    Your post reminded me of dgt. Where is that guy? Disappeared off boards entirely almost a year ago now. Seems like that jag ye guys bought him went to his head.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,919 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Ooohhh I've never seen mod v mod before :D


  • Moderators Posts: 12,425 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Ooohhh I've never seen mod v mod before :D

    We usually use babyoil, but since this is the motoring forum, 5W30 it is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 287 ✭✭NeverWaining


    1aIbjEP.jpg

    x2


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,678 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Power steering fluid flush on the Accord. These don't take ATF like most cars they use Honda specific PSF fluid, mine looked manky, like Engine oil that has been left for a couple of years.
    Used my cheapo oil suction syringe to pull the old stuff out of the reservoir, pulled the hoses off and removed the entire reservoir to clean it out.
    Filled it with fresh fluid and jacked the whole front end off the ground, stuck a hose into the return line and fed it into a small catch bucket, turned the wheel lock to lock and caught the old oil and kept filling the reservoir until the fluid ran clear.
    Started the car and turned it lock to lock to make sure the air was purged and then topped it off.
    Glad I did it as the old fluid looked terrible.
    No pics I had fluid all over my hands and didn't feel like touching the camera


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,678 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    No more knock knock jokes?:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    The auld fellas top radiator hose blew up today. I tried to pick one up, but at 5.30 in the evening I knew I was pissing into the wind. I came up with a brainwave to take the top hose off my 128 3p and use that to get him home at least. I pulled it off and went up to the car. Wasn't the b@starding thing just a couple of inches too short. So I had another brainwave. Let off the brackets on top of the rad and let it fall back towards the engine, giving me the inches needed. Well it worked a treat and got it home.

    I might even take a pic tomorrow when I'm putting a new hose on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    ^^ Good thinking!

    Was going to start a project thread for the bargain basement S-Type but I can't see myself spending too much more time on it other than what needs doing.

    Task as hand was to strip the interior and get to the bottom of the mold around the interior, the water ingress in the back somewhere and the nasty smell.

    1_zpsbttkzgtu.jpg~original

    Seats out first. There was mold on the carpets on both sides of the car. Driver side:

    2_zpsisbglcvz.jpg~original

    3_zpsbqiqwa28.jpg~original

    4_zpstvgachrb.jpg~original

    And on the passenger side:

    5_zpsttnokql1.jpg~original

    Note the water lines on each side of the rear seat back at the bottom. The sound insulation underneath was moldy, as was some of the leather.
    Water was obviously getting in both rear doors, have yet to pinpoint where exactly:

    6_zpsrrygd5vx.jpg~original

    7_zps6ni4yxvq.jpg~original

    I cleaned everything fabric based in the car with Tesco Cotton Fresh APC diluted with hot water. Works great and is only €0.85 for a litre. Spend a solid 8 hours scrubbing and vacumming with a wet vac:

    8_zpsax9xt5fo.jpg~original

    9_zps8fhsyr2t.jpg~original

    I used the same solution on the leather, works just fine:

    10_zpsw7kk6uyk.jpg~original

    11_zpssfxwvc3u.jpg~original

    12_zpsi8a683k6.jpg~original

    The engine bay also got a wipe down with WD-40. Not bad for 170,000 miles:

    13_zpskkefgfx8.jpg~original


    Wish I had more before pics, the wheel well was absolutely stinking dirty:

    14_zpstxh8l9dx.jpg~original

    Some of the repair kit tools were rusted, so gave them a light sanding and spray paint:

    15_zpsrstumxgh.jpg~original

    Not shown was even more mold all over the B and C pillars, headliner, sunroof shade and sun visors. All scrubbed away.

    More to come.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,919 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    I would think the weather strips around the rear doors could be perished and that's where the water is getting in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    I would think so too, but not sure if it's the seals on the doors or the seals around the opening. And they look in alright condition too.

    €50 would have both replaced anywho:

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-INNER-RUBBER-DOOR-SEALS-ALL-SIDES-AVAILABLE-17-50-EACH-/182081990254?hash=item2a64eeae6e:g:BHMAAOSwKIpV~NQz


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    Two failed repair attempts.

    Noisy windows motor/mechanism. Pulled door card off and sprayed lube liberally to see if it would quieten it... nope. New motor at least on the cards shortly I'd say.

    As I had the lube out I thought I'd try giving the steering column u joint the same treatment as the steering has been feeling funny lately and some intermittent wup wup wup noises through corners.

    Of course, as the u joint is right near the turbo... stray lube lead to some smokiness oops. Thought I had improved things but it was doing the same crap an hour later.

    Checked bolt torques of some my last jobs and checked the front wheel nuts too. All present and correct. Water really likes to lodge on top of bits of those boxer engines, had a little pool on top of the intake near the map sensor and on top of the coolant header tank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,046 ✭✭✭Truckermal


    I would think so too, but not sure if it's the seals on the doors or the seals around the opening. And they look in alright condition too.

    €50 would have both replaced anywho:

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-INNER-RUBBER-DOOR-SEALS-ALL-SIDES-AVAILABLE-17-50-EACH-/182081990254?hash=item2a64eeae6e:g:BHMAAOSwKIpV~NQz

    Dry ice is a good way of finding a leak like that..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭Muckie


    Fitted a basic (€25 job) dash camera in my red rocket.
    (sorry about the picture size)

    c2f71e23-76ef-4eca-b49a-f73af40c82ed_zpsdvstvv6e.jpg

    andcarcamera2_zps6aaelkog.jpg

    CarCamera1_zps1spz86vc.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭Diabhalta


    I was hoping the petrol pump will arrive today but it didn't so I hope it will be here tomorrow ...

    Anyway... like 2 weeks ago something happened in the door with the window mechanism. When opening the window all the way down there was a bit of it still out and I could hear rattle when driving the car. I removed the door card and saw what the problem is. There are 2 aluminium holders that the window is sitting on with kind of railing where there are two small wheels at the end of the scissor mechanism. One of the wheels somehow moved that aluminium holder towards the other and fell out. So I removed the other door card on the other side to see how far they are from each other (approx. 18cm). I put the wheel back where it should be and put the railing back. It works fine now. Forgot to take a picture, but you get the idea.

    When I bought the car I immediately saw that half of the dashboard is dark when I turned the lights on (the more important half... the one with rev counter... who cares about the speedo :p ). So today I removed the clocks.

    I also noticed that when I turn on the lights one or two lights above the knob should tell me that the lights are on. I knew straight away what the story is.

    It seems that there is only one bulb. Which is strange because it turns on the whole row of lights. So it will tell me that the fog lights are on too?

    20160412_182451.jpg

    not a surprise

    20160412_180612.jpg

    I removed the clocks as well

    20160412_191519.jpg

    no comment

    20160412_190705.jpg

    I drove the car once with almost no petrol in it and wanted to see if the warning light will come on. There was very low amount of petrol in the tank for a long time but the light didn't come on.

    It seems that the bulb is ok. Some sort of unusual bulb, is it available in motor factors, or will have to get it on ebay? Will have to test it first.

    20160412_191847.jpg

    Here, on the other side is a temp gauge, I presume there should be a bulb there to tell me that the engine is overheating... I am wondering if this is standard, or somebody got rid of it before.

    20160412_191945.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭Diabhalta


    Having a tablet and a useful webpage is very handy... I love 21st century :)

    20160412_184657.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    Muckie, that is the exact same dash cam I have. :D
    They are €20 in EuroGiant. Not great quality, TBH but it's OK for the price.

    Did it not come with a 12v charger? I see you're using a USB adapter. I got mine hardwired.

    24021486683_01738eb194_c.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    Putting the brothers gearbox back together. I misplaced a tiny piece and had to order it from nissan.
    I decided to get it welded at a local engineering place rather than using chemical metal.

    GswSmWf.jpg

    TJCjzDE.jpg

    aezFGXD.jpg

    42oGUZ7.jpg

    Now to put it back in the car over the next few days and see if it works right and doesn't leak.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Good use of that LIDL socket set there! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    Truckermal wrote: »
    Dry ice is a good way of finding a leak like that..

    Really, what does one do with the ice? Sit it on the inside and wait for it to leak out?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,919 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    I would think so too, but not sure if it's the seals on the doors or the seals around the opening. And they look in alright condition too.

    €50 would have both replaced anywho:

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-INNER-RUBBER-DOOR-SEALS-ALL-SIDES-AVAILABLE-17-50-EACH-/182081990254?hash=item2a64eeae6e:g:BHMAAOSwKIpV~NQz

    On my 335 it was the seals around the opening. I had a lot of road noise and small water ingress. Replaced t and all perfect.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    Interesting. In the Jag there's the roofline seal running front to back, the seal on the door itself and the opening/aperture seal. Was it the latter on yours? How did you diagnose?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,046 ✭✭✭Truckermal


    Really, what does one do with the ice? Sit it on the inside and wait for it to leak out?

    Yep remember they used it in nightclubs years ago, there is a crowd in Dublin doing it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭Muckie


    GvidoR wrote: »
    Muckie, that is the exact same dash cam I have. :D
    They are €20 in EuroGiant. Not great quality, TBH but it's OK for the price.

    Did it not come with a 12v charger? I see you're using a USB adapter. I got mine hardwired.

    24021486683_01738eb194_c.jpg

    Great minds eh :pac:

    Mine came with a charger, but wasnt long enough once i ran it thru the dash and then in tight along the window.

    So sliced two old Usb cables and it did the trick :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,919 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Interesting. In the Jag there's the roofline seal running front to back, the seal on the door itself and the opening/aperture seal. Was it the latter on yours? How did you diagnose?

    The 335 was a coupe with frameless doors and it was a common fault.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,202 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    ...Was going to start a project thread for the bargain basement S-Type but I can't see myself spending too much more time on it other than what needs doing...

    Hmm. Nice fresh S, Voodoo. Well bought, that man. Pity about the wet, but I guess it's just some seals. My own has 165k up and no such leak issues, although it has a little ingress to the boot via the lid-seal, which was apparently common on the early ones. What year is it? What engine - 3l V6?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    Yep 3.0 V6, far from fresh though! Heard about the boot seal alright, seems fine on mine. Apparently the sunroof drains cause awful trouble too, as the lines run inside the interior between the headliner and the roof. Will do some tests over the coming days to narrow it down.

    Managed to snap the dipstick in half too, the pull ring came clean off! Got it out thought with some ingenuity (a wood screw). :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,202 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    Yep 3.0 V6, far from fresh though! Heard about the boot seal alright, seems fine on mine. Apparently the sunroof drains cause awful trouble too, as the lines run inside the interior between the headliner and the roof. Will do some tests over the coming days to narrow it down.

    Managed to snap the dipstick in half too, the pull ring came clean off! Got it out thought with some ingenuity (a wood screw). :)

    You can get just about anything for them from Eurojag, British Parts UK or SNG Barratt, just so you know. Is it using much oil, as a matter of interest?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    Thanks for the tips. To be honest I've only driven it about 3 miles; test drove twice! Do they burn much? What's the oil spec, will do an oil change next week.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,541 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I used ford spec 5w30 on mine, didn't burn any noticible amount.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,407 ✭✭✭cletus


    cletus wrote: »
    Just back from the Nct, failed on "advanced corrosion rear brake pipes".

    Will jack it up in the morning and see if my car is about to piss brake fluid all over the road, or are they just dirty

    Just to come back to this.

    Jacked it up. Rear lines are only exposed for about three inches, then they have some sort of coating, before disappearing up behind the fuel tank.

    Knocked the muck and dirt off, cleaned them down, and could only find surface rust, no sign of pitting etc.

    Cleaned back to bare metal with 120 grit sandpaper, primed and gave a couple of coats of black paint.

    Retest this evening. Tester gave both lines a good going over with a wire brush, came back out with a cert. Happy days for another year. Might do the same job preemptively on the front at the weekend


Advertisement